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99dodge_pos

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  1. One week after installing repaired ECM on my stock 1999 2500, everything is great at this early stage. I went with https://autocomputerspecialist.com/ after reading this vendor referral. Nothing but great things to say about this company and it's communication with the customer. After describing my problems to the company rep on the phone (delayed / no Wait To Start light, lost lift pump power supply, and engine cranked and had race car cam lope at idle then die 15 or 20 seconds, and dead fuel pedal), the rep talked me into a repair rather than a purchase, saving about $300.00. Total cost after I shipped to them was $315.00. Replacement cost was quoted at $600.00, which they had in stock. Turn around time was about 5 days from me to them, and them to me. Highly recommend this company.
  2. No offense taken Dieselfuture. God is great and life is good!
  3. I didn't stop to think that most owners probably have already been there and done that given the age of these trucks. My truck is a new to me truck with 155,500 miles on it, and the previous 2 owners obviously had not incurred this problem yet. Lucky me. Seriously, lucky me that others had been there and done that, and had a nature caring enough to pass it on for other newbies such as myself. I just wanted to give a little back and post my problem and outcome on this thread as sometimes problem, and problem solved can be difficult to locate within the same thread. I know it took me quite a bit of reading and research. Everything costs so much these days and I can"t afford to do parts replacement in hopes of finding the problem. Thanks to all the members and administrators for their caring and taking the time share.
  4. I realize this thread is a year old, but having just gone through the same issue on my stock 99 Dodge 2500, I would like to add that IBMOBILE is 100% correct. My lift pump power had also reduced to 2 or 3 volts while probing the connector. Also lost my ECM wait to start light and truck would crank with a race car cam lope then die. Ruled out VP44 failure by hot-wiring it with help from Doug at Blue Chip Diesel. Had my ECM repaired at AutoComputerSpecialist out of Florida. I did the relay mod from IBMOBILE article, also did the VP44 ground wire mod, as the ECM repair company listed low cranking voltage as part of the original ECM failure. Great company highly recommended. While doing the relay mod, after ECM repair, I found that the lift pump connector was faulty. It still had only 2-3 volts coming through, but when probing the yellow w/white stripe power wire itself, it had 12.5 volts. Would not have found it otherwise. If you continue to use the electric lift pump, DO THE RELAY MOD, and ground wire mod, and help preserve your ECM.
  5. Great mod. I could not be happier, works great and restored lift pump power. Also, while doing this mod, I found a open circuit at the lift pump supply connector. It had power going to it, but not through it on the yellow w/white stripe power wire. I would not have found this problem otherwise. Thanks a million
  6. Hi all. New to forums and blogs, this is my first post ever. I was compelled to review this post having completed it over the weekend. First a great big thank you to IBMOBILE for putting it out there. It helped me tremendously. I opted for option "B" and added a micro relay with dedicated fuse inside my PDC. I went to a self pull it salvage yard and removed the entire PDC from a 1500 series donor with all wires attached. Cost $18 bucks and about an hour to locate and recover a suitable part. Located the fuel pump relay inside the donor part and decided to use this one as it was the easiest to get to, and I figured a fuel pump relay was what I needed anyway, and it was the same one used in the how to photo, the one with a diode and ending in a "C" part number. Side note: I tried like the dickens to figure or find anywhere on the internet and called reputable parts suppliers to determine the amp capacity of this and other relays, all for naught....nothing to be found. Just wanted to be thorough, and did not want a relay hanging on the outside. Everyone wants to sell one for any given vehicle application, but they do not know anything about the part, or other possible applications. That's why I used the relay and dedicated fuse spot in my PDC same as the photo. I used the wires and relay from the donor PDC and used split plastic conduit to run my wires from / to my new FASS DDRP02 lift pump. If you did not know this was a modification, you could not tell it from a factory input. As a word of caution to anyone wanting to do this, I highly suggest purchasing the entire donor PDC. The wires inside do not just slip out of their current position when you back probe to unlock them. My donor had other locks in place to be removed, and even then I ended up destroying the relay and fuse positions just to salvage the wires intact. I took my time to note and record the wire color and position prior to removal. My "good truck", was a little easier to deal with, although I had to remember I was looking at my PDC from the bottom, and things were backwards looking from the top. If that makes sense. I put it all together as stated in the tutorial, and I could not be happier. I had done this mod because I had lost lift pump power from my ECM. Referred from this forum, I had my ECM repaired and re-flashed at AutoComputerSpecialist in Florida because of lost lift pump power supply, and no Wait to start light. Also, my truck had a race car cam lope at start up and then would die. Doug at BlueChip Diesel helped me diagnose my problem and rule out the injector pump, as it would run smoothe when hot wired. Thanks again to this forum for the lead, and thanks to Doug at BlueChip. He will return your call and help you. Unheard of these days. Also a big shout to AutoComputerSpecialist. They happened to have a sale going on for repair jobs, and already repaired ECM's. I gave them a call thinking I was going to purchase a new to me ECM. The super nice and knowledgeable lady talked me into a repair rather than a purchase. Again, unheard of these days. I am so glad I listened to her. She saved me about $300 bucks, and the repair along with the communication via email was astounding. My truck is now up and running better than ever. I also did the ground wire mod and the alternator charge wire mod, as AutoComputerSpecialist told me that my problem originated from low voltage cranking, even though my cranking speed was up to par. Thanks again to this forum for all the help.