Hi all. New to forums and blogs, this is my first post ever. I was compelled to review this post having completed it over the weekend. First a great big thank you to IBMOBILE for putting it out there. It helped me tremendously. I opted for option "B" and added a micro relay with dedicated fuse inside my PDC. I went to a self pull it salvage yard and removed the entire PDC from a 1500 series donor with all wires attached. Cost $18 bucks and about an hour to locate and recover a suitable part. Located the fuel pump relay inside the donor part and decided to use this one as it was the easiest to get to, and I figured a fuel pump relay was what I needed anyway, and it was the same one used in the how to photo, the one with a diode and ending in a "C" part number. Side note: I tried like the dickens to figure or find anywhere on the internet and called reputable parts suppliers to determine the amp capacity of this and other relays, all for naught....nothing to be found. Just wanted to be thorough, and did not want a relay hanging on the outside. Everyone wants to sell one for any given vehicle application, but they do not know anything about the part, or other possible applications. That's why I used the relay and dedicated fuse spot in my PDC same as the photo. I used the wires and relay from the donor PDC and used split plastic conduit to run my wires from / to my new FASS DDRP02 lift pump. If you did not know this was a modification, you could not tell it from a factory input. As a word of caution to anyone wanting to do this, I highly suggest purchasing the entire donor PDC. The wires inside do not just slip out of their current position when you back probe to unlock them. My donor had other locks in place to be removed, and even then I ended up destroying the relay and fuse positions just to salvage the wires intact. I took my time to note and record the wire color and position prior to removal. My "good truck", was a little easier to deal with, although I had to remember I was looking at my PDC from the bottom, and things were backwards looking from the top. If that makes sense. I put it all together as stated in the tutorial, and I could not be happier. I had done this mod because I had lost lift pump power from my ECM. Referred from this forum, I had my ECM repaired and re-flashed at AutoComputerSpecialist in Florida because of lost lift pump power supply, and no Wait to start light. Also, my truck had a race car cam lope at start up and then would die. Doug at BlueChip Diesel helped me diagnose my problem and rule out the injector pump, as it would run smoothe when hot wired. Thanks again to this forum for the lead, and thanks to Doug at BlueChip. He will return your call and help you. Unheard of these days. Also a big shout to AutoComputerSpecialist. They happened to have a sale going on for repair jobs, and already repaired ECM's. I gave them a call thinking I was going to purchase a new to me ECM. The super nice and knowledgeable lady talked me into a repair rather than a purchase. Again, unheard of these days. I am so glad I listened to her. She saved me about $300 bucks, and the repair along with the communication via email was astounding. My truck is now up and running better than ever. I also did the ground wire mod and the alternator charge wire mod, as AutoComputerSpecialist told me that my problem originated from low voltage cranking, even though my cranking speed was up to par. Thanks again to this forum for all the help.