FlatTwin

I work with things like this all the time and thats BS. They test (or should test) the pumps. You want a bit of fuel in them to keep the seals from going dry. I work with aviation stuff like this and they are always checked. As noted above they are then placed in plastic bags and it takes care of any residue left in the pump. Same with injector pumps that are pretty much the same thing we use on jet engines, they are checked then bagged and sent out to us.

Winter in Phoenix? Might get down to 35 degrees two or three times a winter, otherwise tonight its going to be a low of 45.Fuel is pump fuel from the Flying J. No bio-diesel in the truck that I know of.

E-Brake seems fine and the rear rotors showed no sign of overheating, so do not believe its that.We pulled the front wheels and the pads are like new there. Again no sign of overheating on the front rotors either.

Thanks for the ideas.I have a scan-gauge on the truck (should be listed in my signature) and its telling me the same thing that the overhead does. Am not showing any codes at this time, and never had any pop up. That said, my overhead has been accurate. Only owned the truck for a year now but its been dead nuts on, if not just a bit low on the actual mileage. Every time I have checked it the overhead has been correct.Thx,Joe

No power loss that I can feel just yet. Was thinking that it might be the VP but hoping not.How substancial of a power loss is it? Just a bit or a lot? Thx,Joe

Feel sorry for you guys in that state. Frigging Daily and his minions run the place and nothing sane nor normal will happen there.We stopped coming to Chicago after Daily illegally bulldozed the runway at Meigs Airport. Of course the feds did nothing. He should be in jail after that. Glad that here in AZ we have both CCW and open carry. FT

Had good luck with Vulcan. Had a duff (leaking) pump at first and Raptor took care of it. Was a mess at first but now a few months on the fuel pressure (have the 1/2 lines) is rock solid and does not vary more than 2-3 psi. Sits on 17-18 psi at idle and never gets below 14 even when cold.

Getting into this a bit late but after the speech last night where there were at least 30 out-right lies told by "our leader" its really time for a change. MASS really did get it right but frankly feel that we need to vote all of them out of office and start over. New Jersey and Virginia started it, and Mass just confirmed it. 2010 will be a very interesting year in the elections. As well we need term limits and all legislators need to have the same health care and retirement that WE the taxpayers have. Until then there will be no reform. Oh yea, lets get rid of about 80% of the lawyers around here... FT

Gents,Have been slowly upgrading my 2500 Cummins and getting it the way it should be. With everyone's assistance it now has a full set of gauges and a Raptor LP and drawstraw. Using a Edge/Attitude but its pretty much there just for the gauges. The wire to the VP44 is not even hooked up so running at level 1. Had the truck for a year or so and know it pretty well. Was getting 23-24 mpg on the overhead gauge in town, and 26-27 on the highway. No towing, running 60-65 or so, usually not faster. Did some work over in SoCal recently so filled up on the Arizona side of the border ($2.72!) and headed home. Did 670 miles before filling up again and it took 27 gallons. Overhead display showed 23.5 mixed city and highway driving. Actual MPG reading using a calculator was better, showing 24.5 or so. Was very happy with that. This is the mileage I have gotten for the last year I have had the truck.Took the truck to get an oil change at a place I have used for years a month ago. Very good guys. Changed the oil and rotated the tires, nothing else done to the truck. Mileage has now dropped overnight to 22.5 for either highway or city driving. Checked the two month old air filter and it looks great, and the "bypass" gauge on the filter housing confirms that. Air pressure in the tires is fine, running 14-17 psi fuel pressure. All other readings appear to be exactly the same as before. Fuel filter is 3 months old at most.Anyone have any suggestions on what this could be? Just took the truck back to the shop and they found nothing. Front tire pressure was a bit low but thats it.Looking everything over closely the rear brakes were pretty far gone so now have new pads in there but that does not appear to have caused anything with the fuel mileage. Cannot figure out anything else unless my VP44 is giving up the ghost but do not feel that something like this would happen overnight like this. Thx,Joe (FT)

Just did a 250 mile drive after making some mods on my truck. Now with the Raptor and drawstraw on the truck I can go as fast as i want to without worrying about fuel pressure. Now the problem is that once I go much over peak torque the fuel mileage goes down... way down. First 100 miles stayed at 60-65 mph and was getting a good 27+ mpg. Anything over that speed and its down to 25 mpg, and once I hit the hills best I could do was 23 mpg. Friend of mine has a Gear Vendors OD unit on his Ford Powerstroke and loves it. Course he got it for a good price and not list of $3000+ as well. Was thinking about trying to find one for the Dodge and sure would like to be able to run 75 mph at 1600 rpm's.Thx,Joe

File above at PDFTown supposedly used to be available for free, but now says that its only available for "premium" pay users. Am unemployed so money is short. Other file for 2nd generation trucks requires a password and it does not like mine, even though its the same one I use to log into the forum. Next idea?

Guess, Thanks for the info but how does one do a "vacuum system test?" I do not have the manual you do so kinda in the dark here.Michael, That could be it. I can hear the flapper door opening and closing back and forth. I had thought that something controlling it was bad but could be the door itself sticking or not moving. Will look for it tomorrow.Joe

Guys, Am still having problems with the heating and cooling in the cab of the truck. Driving home tonight it was getting a bit chilly here, in the mid 50's. Turned the heat control from full cold to mid-way up the scale. Nothing happened at all. Had the blower on fresh air. Turned it 3/4rd hot and still no change. Finally went full tilt hot and about 3-5 seconds later heard a vent door shut and immediately it got full hot.Ok, so we know that there is hot water in the heater core. Turned the temp control back to 1/2 scale and no change. Turned it back to full cold and no change, its still full tilt hot. After about 15 seconds it went from full hot to full cold outside air. Stayed that way for 30 seconds or so then "clunk" the flapper door somewhere in the dash closed and full hot again.It then cycled back and forth like that all the way home. Its got a mind of its own. I need to make a trip back to the mid-west next week and would really like to have heat on the way there. Anyone have something like this happen or ideas or suggestions where to look? Thx,Joe

Mike,If he is low on voltage, then cranks, its going to go way down and wonder if this is robbing the ECM of the power to sent to the pump? If the engine in the truck with the problem is cranking slow, fix that first then tackle the ECM issue. Maybe that once you get battery volts and cranking speed where it should be that there will be enough voltage to trigger and run the LP.Joe

Yes am going with the module unit.

Mike,Am not 100% sure just yet, will have to pull the bed and look from there but once we eliminated picking up the fuel from the tank the problems went away. My gut feeling is that the "O" ring inside the new connector to the tank nipple is bad, or possible the plastic nipple coming off of the tank cracked.We will have to pull the bed (or tank but its 3/4 full right now) to do the drawstraw, and will be able to give this area a good inspection once we get to this area.Will post back and let everyone know what we find.Joe

Well, we finally have success! As most everyone said, it was air getting into the system. Where is still not clear but the truck is running and very well at that.Instead of doing a "bucket test" I went a step further and plumbed a long length of hose that I had into the suction side of the Raptor and ran it to a five gallon fuel tank in the bed of the truck. Bled the system (am getting very good at this!) and truck started right up. Pressure was stable at 14 psi, which I then adjusted up to 17 as per several people's recommendation. Out for a drive around the block!It ran excellent and no fluctuations what so ever. Pressure now sitting on 17 and WOT produced a drop of never more than 2 psi, so not seeing anything below 15 psi. Thats what I wanted to see from this pump! Now lets give it a real test. Had one errand to run of about 5 miles. The 5 gallon tank had 4 gallons in it so should be more than enough for the trip, right? Ever heard the phrase "fat, dumb, and happy?".... well I am the poster child for this now.Got to my destination and the Edge warning went off showing low fuel pressure. WTF??? Pulled off of the road and looked in the 5 gallon tank and it was dry. WTF???? O'chit man, the return fuel line! Turned the ignition on and lo and behold the main fuel tank is now higher by about 4 gallons! Fuel went to the VP-44 and what was not used was returned to the main fuel tank! Damm, its empty for a reason. Ok, ran the hose instead into the TransferFlow "Tokyo tank" that is in the bed and got it running and heading back home. Made it 2/3rds the way when it stopped again. This time for good and right in the road. Guess the TF tank is dry.Ten minutes went by while I tried to get more fuel into the system and get it bled on a busy street when a red 2006 Dodge Cummins pulls over and backs up to my truck. He has a tow strap and gets me to a side street where I am safe to work on the critter. Then asks if I need some fuel and give me 3 gallons of red fuel to get home with! Real nice guy. Finally get the system bled, engine started and truck is home again.Called Vulcan and AJ is shipping out a drawstraw and big line (filter to VP) kit. Will give up and drop the tank or pull the bed and do it right. At least we know that the pump is working (and not leaking!) and that where the issue was. Appreciate all the help!Joe

Latest update!Pure Flow thankfully overnighted me a new Raptor 100. Had the old one off and waiting for the new one when UPS arrived. New unit was on within 20 minutes. Bled the system, no start. Bled three injectors and it fired right up. Pressure is excellent!Time for a test drive and it works great the first 100 yards. Make a turn in the cul de sac and o'chit man, fuel pressure is right back where it was before, going up and down. Get the truck back in the driveway and bleed the line to the pump... lots of air in the system. Start the truck and it runs fine as before but do another run down the street with the same result. Well guys, we have air in the system, and I have checked every connection there is. My best guess, and its a guess right now, is that the elbow connection to the fuel tank is the source. My option is to hook up a second hose (with the extra fitting thankfully provided by PF) and run it to another tank or source of fuel and confirm this. Ran out of daylight to do so today (thursday) and am busy tomorrow. At least the new pump is not dripping fuel like the old one did, so thats a step in the right direction. Anyone have any thoughts on this? Time to give up and put a drawstraw on the puppy and eliminate this problem? Thx,JoeIn case anyone wants to see a short video of this afternoons fun, its here:

Do you have the "EPA catch can" on the front of your engine? Might be puking a bit out of this and that is what you are smelling.

Very long and detailed installation! Plug it in the OBDII port and drive! Setting the unit up the way YOU want it takes 10x the time but well worth it.

Ok,Have gotten a fair amount of things done and checked out today.1. Pressure relief bypass valve on the VP-44 is not stuck. Free as can be and nice and clean.2. New fuel filter installed and the old one looked fine. Put the new one in just in case.3. Checked the connection on the fuel tank. It does move back and forth about 1/4 of an inch on the plastic nipple (not the hose on the fitting), not much but is good and snug and on tight to the point that I cannot pull it off. Did not try to release the plastic clips on the hose and pull it all the way off.4. Removed the suction side hose and fitting on the pump. Checked the small screen inside the suction port. Its clean and no debris what so ever.5. As I removed the AN fittings off of the pump, have now put a new coating of pipe sealant on them and will let them sit overnight and cure. Tomorrow morning will probably take the hose off of the rear of the fuel filter canister and put it into a bucket and see what I get out of it. 6. Have re-adjusted the fuel pressure on the pump back up to 17 psi as recommended by Toby at PureFlow. He said that this pressure is a good mix between not overdoing the pressure and having a good margin.I do have the stock plumbing between the filter housing and the VP-44 but a question. The AN fittings on the fuel pump are not anywhere close to 1/2 inch (390 thou ID in fact) so even if I put larger hose and fittings upstream of the pump how is it going to ever pump more with this restrictive fitting on both sides of the pump? If I was hot rodding the truck would probably put these in a lathe and bore them out to get them closer to 1/2 inch but its stock and planning on keeping it that way. Thx,Joe

RBurks,Sorry, did not see your post until a bit ago.Finally got a call from someone at PF that really knows his stuff. Toby at PF sure seems like an expert. His idea was the same as yours but also had about 10 other ideas as to what the problem is. Going to start with the tank connection (yes I did take the blue plastic piece off, and everything is sealed up very well) and work from there to the pump. Seems that there is a small screen in the inlet side that can restrict things, so thats second on the list and so on. We then talked about the bypass valve on the VP-44 (its just behind the fuel inlet connection, so easy to remove and check out. Will report back when I know more. PF is sending a new pump out to replace this one (due to the leak) but several people felt that this would not cause my fuel pressure problems.Joe

Update!Talked with the guys at PureFlow this morning and while they were helpful, they as well did not know what the cure to my specific problem was! They are sending me a new pump unit as the fuel dripping out of the pump is not normal and signs of a bad "O" ring inside the unit. Good news is that they have made major changes in their warranty system and purchasers now have 90 days to get the paperwork sent into the company, as well they are now putting a sticker on the outside of the box advising people to complete the paperwork. It seems that there were A LOT of customers unhappy with the old 30 days procedure, myself included.Hopefully the new pump will correct this issue but still trying to figure out why with the old LP pump it would start right off and now I have to crank the engine for a long time. Also turns out that I have a Raptor pump and not a AirDog 100. Still learning...

Winslow,No, did not remove anything on the fuel tank, its just too difficult to get to. Did not pull the bed or the tank. The bed has a TransferFlow tank/toolbox in it (too heavy) and the fuel tank was over 1/2 full, so as well too heavy. We just unbolted the bed and tilted it up on the drivers side to get to the fuel tank connections. My question is, it ran just fine with the stock LP pump a few days ago and we have not added fuel or changed anything, so why would simply putting another pump on change anything with the tank or stock pickup? Have not called PF yet, as most of this transpired on a weekend. Will give them a ring on Monday. Frankly I contacted Vulcan as they sold me the unit and have not heard back from them troubleshooting wise. Really thought I would hear back from them on Friday but .....The new thing that does not excite me is finding the drip of fuel out of the bottom of the new pump. This is not a good thing and am really hoping that the pump is not **** up out of the box. Will recheck all the connections but there are only two that I can really get to that have not been checked so far (the ones on the pump are tight and dry), the one on the filter and at the tank. The tank is a bear to get to but will check. Feel that if the connection on the aft side of the filter canister was loose that I would have fuel dripping from that connection. The old connection on the tank had a blue plastic collar that needed to be removed (mentioned in the AD manual) and it was, and is now sitting on my workbench. The new connection with a barb fitting that goes onto the new hose going to the AD-100 pump was supplied by Vulcan and seems to be tight and secure on the top of the fuel tank. The fuel pressure drop is just about anytime you are driving, not only at WOT. In fact I cannot go WOT very much as the fuel pressure just will now allow it. First the pressure drops below 10 psi and second when I reset the pressure to 12 psi on the pump the engine stumbles as the pressure gets low. Thanks for the suggestions...Joe

Had a friend of mine who knows diesels pretty good asked about a possible collapsed fuel filter. Anyone have any ideas on this or other suggestions? Thx,Joe