rambo

It's a 01 3500 quad high premium 2wd -7 HO 6spd I bought 2 yrs back. My first diesel, Ram, it's has some miles but no damage or rust, could use a new dash and some paint. When i picked it up the cruise was Inop. and the trip computer read no CCD but the gauge cluster works fine. Is the CCD bus broken up into diff. sections?32 If both read outs are on the same bus shouldn't they both have No CCD? The Stereo has a aftermarket deck in its place and the steering wheel collum radio controls are disconnected. Can a poor radio install cause a bus failure? It has a strong engine but it's 235 hp, not the -7 HO it originally had, this is probably my cruz issue , it also pulls allott of value away that I can't afford to lose So extended plan is to r&r the engine, I will need a 01 5.9l T.D. 24v -7 HO, Can i use a dealer to confirm the original P/N for the ECM using the VIN? which i'm sure was changed, Was a PCM change required also to do this swap? And any tips will be very appreciated. Thank You

So you control max boost pressure by defueling, when you pull the cool fuel does ur egt's climb more than you like? Does this wastegate turnbuckle have a spring on it to control the gate opening? And the turbine bark you spoke of is that like a compressor stall, air flow reverses ?

I treated myself to a Quadzilla and 7x10 injectors, soon to realize head studs were next to be safe. The shopping list grew again today so i figured it was time to get some help an try to keep my cost managed with less surprises. My list is Boost elbow, Boost fooler, a tablet for quad display, a fully adjustable wastegate for average of $250.00, it's a simple diaphragm that's missing the spring tension adjusting.screw and a supply line fuel pressure sending unit an snubber. I'm not sure if i need another part and i'm starting to lose some trust with the sales dept they kept my DAP t shirt and because i bought a i-quad they took my control pad out of my box, even tho i paid for it. need help adding boost safely, goal is 500-550 hp and 1000 ft. # torque aprox. thx

I've been following this mod preparing to get started in a day or two. I'm no pro when it comes to electrical problems but any elect.generating source can add two these negative results. What about the tach generators in the front wheels used for ABS signals, don't they produce a A/C signal and the controller counts the freq. or rotation and if it stops it releases brake pressure for that wheel. Well the sensor feeds from wheel to controller pass very close to these mods your conducting. Has anyone considered this as a possible contributing factor and if it hasn't and i'm the first how do i put my name on it? Haha trying to help and put it behind me.

Thank you all, for sharing your time and experience.

Thx for the help.

My first turbo diesel a 01 3500 w some modes to pull better. A Smarty programmer, S362 turbo, stk head bolts, stk injectors, 5' straight pipe exhaust axle dump, 3 piece exspantion joint exhaust manifold, BD exhaust brake. My questions are, when applying the exhaust brake exh. pressure will increase from flow restrictions causing heat to build up raising pressure even more, can the clamping force of stk exh. hardware or head bolts fail or stretch an loosen causing gaskets to move an leak? If possible can these press. be monitored and managed?

If you are using a new soldering iron you have to tin the tip so it will conduct the heat more quickly. its been a while so ck it on u-tube, but heat the iron, place tip of hot iron in flux about 3 seconds a couple of time remove tip from flux and wipe flux and any dirt off tip with a very damp sponge or paper towel. Reheat the tip and melt solder all around entire tip, wipe tip again with sponge and you will see solder is bonded to tip and now is very conductive with heat.

thx again

Thank you Bullet, for sharing your time and experience. None of my ball joints are pressed the uppers have 3 bolts and the lowers have 4 bolts securing them to the c/arms.

Shopping for parts for my 01 3500 24valve 2WD 6spd Qcab that will be pulling a 40' flatbed. The front end refirb is what parts i'm looking for starting with polyurethane bushings, are they worth the extra exspence? Will they last longer from normal wear, chemical attack and are they more prone to squeak an make noise? Also looking at part drawings the ball joints are pressed into a hole or boss in the control arms, my ball joints are bolted onto the arms and the boss is msg. I've noticed some of the bolt holes going thru the control arms are elongated, is this control arm/bj a factory mod? is this a model differrance? I prefer the bolt on style but the elongated bolt holes concern me, will this get more elongated? affect my alignment? If yes now would be the time to change the C arms with elongated holes but not all 4 arms are elongated and i want all the same bolt on type, can i buy the bolt on bj type or do i have to mod the press on C arm? Also going to replace lwr C arm attachment bolts, should i buy cam bolts? Moving on 4 new bolt on ball joints w/zerks, need help on where and what to buy with price an longevity being top consideration. Next is bearing hubs, ABS sensors and wires and new brake hoses again where and what to buy with price and longevity? Now springs and ride height, i know raising the front will cost me fuel mileage and front end part longevity, planing on rear airbags for loaded ride height and stability, my concern is unloaded stability when the speed will be higher, would lowering the rear 2" to level the ride unloaded make a cost effective improvement? I'm not experienced enough to make this call an will be hiring drivers. I know this is a tall list, and i will an do appreciate all the help i can get. thx.

Been a mechanic/tech for many years, working on my own equipment to heavy commercial aircraft with my A&P, But this is my first turbo diesel, i am hoping to get hot shot work as a reason for buying this truck, but i just really like the truck and cummins.