dave110

Just got my CC bill today. That's the only way to know what Cummins charges for the parts they sell because it's not on the invoice. For the three 1/4 inch long pcs. of 5/16 id x 1/2od diesel rated tubing which they call grommets for the return line T it was $47.40. That's like $60 per inch. I don't care how loyal you are to the brand. That's just unfair. So if you are looking to reseal your return line T fitting FYI.

I guess for every bad experience there's a good one. Mine was not so good.

Just for kicks I disconnected my Quad. No help. I want to try Blue Chip's trick and unplug the VP and give it only 12v. and ground to rule out bad crank, cam sensor. Just trying to wrap my brain around the injector suggestion. I always thought that raw unburned fuel would be black. So a leaking injector would smoke black at startup. I do get a small black puff when it starts easy. The white smoke comes with a hard start and clears up almost instantly, don't have to drive around the block. What does white smoke mean? Oh, and I learned the smoke from the vent tube was caused by a vacuum leak I created by knocking the line off while doing the other work. Interesting how that works.

I made a seal "puller'' when I did mine. If you're handy with a metal lathe I can send you some dimensions and a pic. or two.

I was fighting this problem at the other end. All the above suggestions are good ones.

Well, I left the cap loose and yesterday morn it started well. Then when shut off for 10 min after being completely warm it gave a hard start. I brought it home, shut it off, waited 5 sec, and had to crank for 20 sec. to get it to start. This morning I had to crank twice for 30 sec each to get it to go. I think I've ruled out air in fuel because of the hard start after sitting only 5 sec. The problem never seems to consistently repeat itself and the truck is totally untrustworthy right now. In fact I'm running around with a 7/16 deep socket and a can of ether in the toolbox.I would think a bad injector would mean smoke all the time but maybe I'm wrong. I guess at this time I'll try a new VP. I don't mind spending $1000 if it fixes my problem but if it doesn't It's gonna be hard to swallow. Another thing I noticed while underneath yesterday was a steady stream of light smoke coming from the breather. I was parked downhill but I never noticed it before. I hope my second engine is not worn out at less than 190k.

Not yet but I did open and didn't hear a vacuum whoosh. I will try that and post back.

Done

Update: Ive replaced the overflow valve, connector tube O-rings, all sealing washers, and the return line T. Had a terrible time bleeding and getting it to start. For the first time in my diesel life I had to use Brake clean to get it going. After finally getting the lines to seal at the head, the next morn. it started pretty good. Drove 12 mi. shut off 10 min. started good again, drove 10 mi. shut off for 1.5 hr and a long crank. Next morn. a long crank but started w/ a puff of 1/2 white 1/2 black smoke. Only does this when cold. Only smoke at all while running is black if at all. Runs great once it's going. No codes.What do you suggest I do next? Only thing I can think is injectors or VP, and I'm leaning towards VP but hate to do a $1000 experiment. All along I assumed the white smoke is air in fuel. If it was bad pump timing wouldn't it smoke all the time? Am I right or wrong?

I hear what you're saying but you would think that the website and the central parts warehouse would be on the same page

O.K. so I'm chasing a hard start issue and apparently a little air leak seems to be the kryptonite to the mighty Cummins. Everyone says replace sealing washers, connector tube O-rings and the return T. In my searching I've found many don't know where to get the parts and when they find out they come from Cummins they don't know the part numbers. I got on Cummins quick serve which I found difficult to navigate and finally found the parts and #'s, and added them to my cart. Trying to check out all I got was some Java bla,bla,bla message. I'm no IT guy and you should not have to be to use a website. I found out they have a central warehouse 50 mi. from me so I called them direct. 3 of the 6 numbers I gave off of Quickserve were no longer valid so we got that fixed. After 3 days waiting I called and it appears the CS guy lost my CC#. I reordered, and parts came next day. I was told I had to order the whole return T fitting to get the seals inside. The T fitting came with no seals. So I called and waited..........................and waited..........................and waited ect. and finally got someone and got cut off. This happened twice. After an hour on the phone I got it straightened out and will hopefully get the seals for the weekend which I set aside 2 weeks ago to hopefully fix this x0!@#$% truck. So to save the next guy the frustration I went through I am posting some part #'s. This should be pinned in my opinion but that's up to Mike. 12mm sealing washer-- 3963983 14mm sealing washer--3963988 return T fitting--3905353 seals for return T-- 3905351 crossover tube O-rings--3867043 VP 44 overflow valve-- 3941156 I hope no one ever has this air leak fiasco that leaves you pulling your hair out wondering what to do next, but in searching it is not uncommon at all.Hopefully one of these will fix my issue which I will report on in my other post. If and when you do experience this I hope these numbers will help ease the pain a little.

Ha Ha I love it. Could give my horse something to do to earn his oats.

I had it wired to the power window fuse which had fixed it for about 6 weeks. I thought you meant wire it hot again so I did and it helped...... but then it didn't. The gremlins have found me

Sometimes it's the little things that pay off

WOW! Now that's impressive!

Hey folks, thanks for all the replies! Yesterday I took Mopartech's advice and wired my LP back to run while cranking and after sitting a day it started, not very well but it did start. Shut it off and started again, shut it off and loaded my tools which took maybe 10 min. and it wouldn't start. Pulled the LP fuse and it started. With so many symptoms that don't seem to repeat consistently I'm not sure what's up but I'm going to start by putting new sealing washers everywhere, a new return T fitting, a new overflow valve, and new crossover tube O-rings. I have it all ordered from Cummins and it should show up next week. I'll let you know how I make out. If that does not work I guess a new VP is in my future. I don't know what else to replace .

I've never done them. Do I just remove the lines, pull the tubes, and put back in w/ new O-rings? I don't need to pull valve cover, mess w/ injectors right?

Here are some pics for Rancherman. This is a new bed to replace my steel one that the PA. winters destroyed. The old bed was mounted this way and had the gooseneck ball mounted right to the bed. I figured if this mounting method could handle the stresses of pulling a trailer then it's a pretty good way to go. I also redid the bumper for this bed. It's great to hook a log chain to or straps for hauling hay plus it protects the tailboard. You will love your flatbed. I'll never go back. It's like having a tractor without a loader and then you put one on and realize now you have a tool you can really use. It's great for hauling hay... no more wheel wells or bed rails to fight with. Just a nice square stack you can easily strap down. And for firewood we now take my tractor(w/loader) and load the logs, bring them home, and buck them to size at our convenience. It will increase the usability of your truck three fold. Enjoy and if you need more info. let me know.

It is hot when key is on. Same wiring as the original only I have it wired to the window circuit to disable it when cranking. If the tube O-rings do leak though where does that fuel go? I always thought too it would go into the oil.

I have not, but crossover tubes I know are suspect also. Could I tell otherwise if they are leaking ?

No problem, I'll get you some pics of the bed mounts. Hopefully I'll get this fixed soon. Hunting season's coming and I need this truck to start in the morning.

I have checked and tightened them a little. None where even damp but I'm gonna order new washers and grommets and a new Overflow and start there. Anyone have any shortcuts to rebuilding that T in the return line? Looks like it would be easier to pull the dang motor to get to it.

Yeah, but if it is stuck open and there is a slight air leak in the fuel can it will create a siphon effect and suck air in the feed line or at least that's what I am hoping. Disabling my LP at startup helped for a little while. Now after sitting overnight I pretty much need to do a total priming to get it to start. I'm going over the system looking for leaks and have found none but white smoke and foaming fuel mean air is in there. The other day I took off both my FP gauges and plugged the ports on the fuel can to rule that out. So the fuel can was open ( just the 2 test ports) for a max of 5 min. The truck started and ran for a sec w/ the fuel in the VP and then shut off w/ a white puff of smoke. I see no way for air to siphon down in to the feed line so quickly unless overflow is open . And the air was not up at the injectors cause the truck ran briefly. I'm pulling my hair out with this thing so I'll take any suggestions.

Oh, And what are the sizes of the sealing washers and the easiest place to buy them?