keithb7

I pulled the original turbo today. I confirmed that there is oil in the air exit of the turbo and coming from what appears to be the shaft area. There was an oil coating on the inside of the pipes and flex hoses down to the cooler. The wastegate appears frozen as I cannot move the linkage at all. I pulled everything out for cleaning and ordered a new stock Holset HX35W replacement. I am looking forward to some renewed boost. Is there a special tool or technique to get the forward lower turbo nut off? I was able finally figure out a way. Not an easy nut to loosen. If I recall, spec is 24 ft lbs on those nuts when re-installing new turbo. How in the heck do you get a torque wrench on those turbo nuts? Pretty tight in there!

Thanks folk for the great feedback an insight. I like the ideal of a mechanical pump I will look into it.

Hi folks. I am interested in settling on the right fuel transfer pump for my 1998.5 24V 2500. My engine is stock. I have no plans to increase horsepower or torque. I have 157,200 miles. I bought the truck last August. Right before I bought it, the VP44 had failed and been replaced in June. However the lift pump was not replaced. I decided to dig in a learn a bit about this known problem. I purchased a fuel pressure test gauge and checked the stock Carter pump. Readings were ok for the stock system, but a little down. I decided to change it out ASAP with another stock Carter pump at that time. I wanted to experiment and track some results. With the new Carter in I was getting 10 psi at idle. Dropping down about 6.5 to 7 psi pulling a steel hill. I proceeded to install a digital ISSPRO fuel pressure gauge and drove in that state it over the past winter. Over winter, I continued on to read about various high performance fuel lift pumps. I bumped into the Airtex or Herko fuel lift pump. Priced at about $70 so I decided to try the Herko. I put it in about a week ago. Fuel pressure at idle is 16-17 psi. Pulling hills drops to about 9-10 psi. A considerable improvement over the stock Carter. Hi-way speeds on flat ground the Herko makes about 14 psi. My understanding is the check valve inside the VP44 opens at 14 psi allow for proper full cooling of the pump electronic circuit board. Is this correct? It seems odd to me that the Bosch needs to see 14 psi to cool, yet Dodge engineers chose a max-10 psi at idle, fuel pump. I own a 23 ft travel trailer I plan to tow. If the VP44 does indeed need 14 psi for proper cooling, I suppose I should be looking at a pump that can maintain minimum 14 psi at all times. Am I on the right track here? Do I really need to be looking at these expensive AirDog or FASS pumps at $600 to $800? Seems pretty pricey for a stock HP truck. I understand that saving the VP44 is the idea here, as they are big bucks. Looking at the Gino's catalog here as I type this, they offer a mid-level upgrade. The FASS High Performance Adjustable Fuel Pump at $464. I assume if I go this route I'll also need to upgrade the fuel suction lines. It's been interesting learning about the various pump options. I have already spent $200 screwing around with pumps and learning. I do my own work and do enjoy it. Thoughts and tips settling on the right right lift pump for me are appreciated. Thanks. Keith

Got this just now. Now that the sun is up here. Thanks folks.

1998.5 24V Automatic tranny 4x4 2500. Hi folks. I have a considerable amount of turbo end shaft play. 208,800 miles. I have not checked boost pressure however I see oil is dripping off exit hose & clamp at ATAAC. I suspect I am pushing oil though the ATAAC as the turbo shaft seals and bearings are failing. Looking at stock turbo replacement options. I am planning to stick with stock size. Looking at replacement turbo options for a 1998 year I see a few choices. Some state "For Engine Vin code D". I assume that means diesel? Other turbo options read for "Engine VIN 6". I am unsure what that means, My engine tag is below. I don't see anything labeled VIN code. Maybe I need to look elsewhere? Perhaps 1998 options listed are covering both the 12V and 24V engine turbo options. Perhaps I should look at 1999 turbo options. There are fewer options listed. I am in Canada. There are a few turbos listed under 1998 year "With Canada Emissions". I assume this I need? I believe the stock turbo on my engine is a Holset HX35. I will confirm later. Another issue the oil in my ATAAC. I assume I need to pull the ATAAC and have it properly cleaned and tested to ensure good flow again. What other tasks can I expect once I get in there? This is my first time personally doing this work so tips are appreciated. I will change all gaskets and planning new turbo oil line too. What about the soft hoses in the intake? Thanks in advance.

Before I lay down big bucks for a FASS or Airdog I decided to give the Herko fuel lift pump a try. 1998.5 Ram 2500 Cummins 5.9L 24V. The Herko pump Installed pretty easily. I had to grind one corner off the mounting plate on the pump to make it fit. My stock location is left rear of engine block. My Herko pump did not come with the 90 degree adaptor for the fuel line from tank hook up. It is not needed. I was able to clip my stock fuel line on to it no problem. The rest of the details and psi readings are here in the video. Yep a FASS or Airdog is likely in my future. We'll see how this Made In China Herko pump holds up. I can monitor it with my gauge. I will carry my spare stock Carter pump for long trips! Stock Carter 10 psi at Idle. Drops to 6.5 psi pulling hard on a hill. Herko pump 16 psi at idle. Drops to 9 psi pulling hard on a hill. https://youtu.be/JzvnjtBpQIw

Hi folks I own a 1998.5 with Cummins 5.9L 24V Ram 2500. Automatic. 4x4. I got under the truck to try and ID the tranny. I learned where stamped ID numbers were located. I can read 10PK522195, I think. Hard to read. I would need to get a wire brush and some break clean to better read it. Does my truck likely have the 47RE tranny? I see a good used one for sale locally. Seems like a good price. Thinking of picking up for a spare. Mine is at 261,000 KM currently. No problems. Just planning to keep the truck long term. Could store the tranny easily. Thanks, Keith

This topic interests me as I too am interested in an OBDII reader for my 1998.5 24V 2500 truck. I am hesitant to buy one as my understanding is not all OBDII readers can read all the codes in my truck. I did try one that was for sale locally for my ABS code, and found that it could not read it. This suggested reader above will not work for me either as it is not able to work with a Mac iphone. I am open to suggestions on an OBDII reader that will work with my truck. Thanks.

Is the noise mainly from combustion? I'll guess our engines may sound different based on air/fuel ratio, compression, condition of valve sealing area, condition of injectors and amount of fuel delivery. Operating altitude and amount of boost?

This is becoming a bigger issue the more I learn. LOL. I will check out the FASS 150 and the Airdog 150. Thanks.

I am in Canada. Winter is approaching. We can and do see ambient temps to about -28 celsius (-18.4 F) around my parts. My 98.5 24V has a block heater, however that heats the coolant in the engine water jackets. It's does nothing to heat the oil in the pan or the filter housing. I have chosen to put Caterpillar CK-4 5W40 synthetic oil in my engine this winter. I choose Cat brand because I work at the dealer and get employee pricing! The CK-4 oil has been proven to have a higher level of oxidation wear protection. The PAO base oil is proven to flow better at colder temps. So I chose synthetic. My truck is not a daily driver. It is used as needed for dump runs, picking up building supplies etc. This winter it will sit for weeks between starts. The engine will warm up, but local trips are not long. I want to ensure my engine oil is doing the best in my application. I like the temperature range of the 5W40 oil, shown here. That's quite a spread and takes me right down to -30 C. The benefits of synthetic oil, the unique pricing I get, the ambient air temps where I live, it makes sense to me to use it. I don't think I'll pre-fill the oil filter.

Thanks for the updated info on the fuel pressure Mopar1973man. I think I have settled on the FASS DRP pump. Also an A-pillar set of gauges.

Well, the experience keeps piling up. I learned a few things today about my first owned diesel truck. As mentioned, I had planned to replace the stock type lift pump with another stock type. I had recently acquired the truck. I had recently learned about the problems with the lift pump on a few web sites like this one. I had no idea what my fuel pressure was between the lift pump and high pressure fuel pump. I had read a lot about the update pumps from various manufacturers. I saw a stock lift pump, Carter brand, new on Rock Auto for a good price. I figured what the heck, I'll change it until I get more time to research the various upgrade pumps. I also ordered the pump pressure test gage tool from Gino's Garage. It all arrived in due time. With Gino's gage, and the questionable pump on my truck, I recorded 8 psi under heavy load up a hill. I figured, it's not the minimum, but not great either. So I'd proceed to put the new Carter pump on, and see if there was any psi improvement. That was to happen today. I read over the instructions in the manual and got started. I decided to swap the pump from working above the engine. It was not too hard to do while standing on a short foot stool. I could get it done. The old pump came out quick. New pump a little awkward to line up the fuel lines, but I got it together. Upon test, I was sucking air in somewhere. Lots of air. I hooked up a clear hose to the test port on the filter housing. I could see tons of air and little fuel moving up the line to a bucket. I re-inspected everything I had done with flash light and mirror. I could see my fuel line to the intake of the carter pump was not squared up. I was sucking air there. I tried to tighten it some more. I could see things were not lining up. Darn it. I figured I must have cross threaded the fuel line mount bolt into the pump housing. It was not difficult to line up that bolt when I put it in. It went in so easy by hand, it did not feel cross threaded. With the new pump removed, I confirmed that yes I had cross threaded the bolt. M12 x1.5 I believe it was. I did not have the right sized tap to clean it up. Damaged threads were on the firewall side of the pump. It was hard to reach, unable to see, doing it by feel, while also lining up the 2 sealing washers. That's what caused me to cross thread it I guess.Oh well. You live, ya learn. That Carter pump housing is awfully soft metal I estimate. It was nothing, to cross thread it seemed. So the old pump is back on and now I will shop for a new high volume pump to upgrade. I did run more fuel through the clear hose off the filter housing with the old pump back in. I was impressed. These things move a lot of fuel. I can only image the the amount of fuel the upgrade pumps must move. Good or bad, it's all experience. I would still much rather do it myself than pay a shop to. Truck is running and up now. To complete my original question, the carter type pump is self priming. No need to put any fuel in it before installing. It will suck and even move air and create a vacuum to pull up fuel from the tank.

Thanks Greed. Did you have to prime the original type Carter pump when you installed them?

Thanks. Any tips on the priming? Is it required?

Hi folks I own a 1998.5 24 valve 2500. I am currently replacing the stock Carter fuel lift pump, (Right rear side of block) with an equivalent new replacement. This is a preventative maintenance measure as pump on there now is seven years old and making 8 psi under full load. I an interested to see what pressure a new pump will make. New pump is just being bolted down now. Is it ok to install this dry? Will it prime itself once I hook everything up and turn on the power? I know about the upgrades for these lift pumps. I do plan to upgrade to a more reliable pump with better flow rate, in the future. For now just going with stock until I decide on an upgrade system. Thanks for tips on priming it or not. - Keith

Hi folks, I have a 1998.5 24 valve Cummins 2500 RAM. I have inspected the diff covers and their respective tags. I think I have Dana 60 front and rear diffs. I am not 100% sure though. Front diff cover reads Dana 43600 3 007 Rev Q. 05 30 94. The front diff tag reads 52070148 610719 1 3.54 Yet in my 1998 Factory service manual the axle options are: 216 And 248 RBI Axles (is this 1500 half ton?) 248 and 267 RBI Axles (is this 2500 3/4 ton) 286 RBI Axle. (s this posi-locking rear type?) 9 1/4" Rear axle. (is this 3500 1 Ton size?) How can I determine which ones I have? My guesses are in brackets. Thanks, Keith

My 1998.5 tranny dipstick does the exact same thing. Push it in to place. As soon as you let go it pops about an 1" back out. Oh well. Been that way for 20 years I suppose.

I just got back from the store. Took the only 3 remaining quarts they had left. My tranny took 'em all. So just a tad under 7 quarts in total and now it's finally reading full on the dipstick. And, no I did not drain my torque converter. Interesting, my 98 factory service manual seems incorrect.

Just snapped this pic of my pan. Does this appear stock, or extra deep?

As far as I know it's a stock pan. I just bought the truck in August. Maybe there is a deeper pan for extra cooling? Heavy tow option from the factory? I did see what appeared to be factory Mopar part number stamped in it. I did not record it. The pan looks about as rusted and worn as the rest of the truck on the bottom side. Not exactly accurate, but generally looks in line age-wise.

Today I dropped the transmission pan on my 1998.5 24V Cummins 2500, automatic transmission. I read the manual first to review the task.I bought the oil amount they recommended, at 4 quarts. I reinstalled the pan and put 4 quarts back in so far. ATF is just barely reading on the low end of the dipstick. 2 different places in the manual say 2 different capacities, for the same tranny model. As seen below here. I just dropped the pan to install a new gasket that was leaking. Looking in my drain tub, there is a lot more than 4 quarts that came out. I am headed back to the store to by more oil. Looking at the drain tub, I'd guess about 7-8 quarts drained out. Any ideas on what my tranny will have required by the time the level is right? I am testing the level correctly as instructed in the manual. I am not too concerned about overfilling it. As I mentioned, a heck of a lot more than 4 quarts came out. Thanks.

Isn't oil is engineered to keep the internal parts of your engine lubricated during cold starts and dry filters when they are changed?These are short time frames while the engine is starting, or filling up the empty filter. The small film of oil left on internal engine parts does not drip off bearings, out of spray tubes, nor internal oil passages. The oil remains in several areas including the galleries, and the oil gear-pump. I'd go dry and not worry about it. If you want, yes go ahead and pre-fill the filter. Just know that if anything drops in there, not good. If you are not careful a tiny piece of the silver foil seal on the jug could drop in there. Or small plastic little pieces of plastic from the oil jug manufacturing process. This could destroy your engine if if gets into a oil gallery or spray tube in your engine.

40 grit sanding disc all over the chrome to roughen the surface up well. No primer required. Spray the box liner on to the very rough surface. It will adhere very well to the roughed up surface.

Yes. I did the rear too. Chrome sucks up here in Canada. Unless you replace your truck every 10 years. It seems to pit and rust, I am sure from the winter roads. This liner spray should help. Here are a couple more pics. Lower cab corners are available. I just had a bad rear cab corner replaced.