pepsi71ocean

That sounds good, your right at the sweet spot when surge is detected but light. Years ago when I built or tuned other Dodges around here, the smarty was my choice for power, they weren't pulling trucks but a built auto with 75hp injectors, head studs and a boost elbow made the smarty a real hitter in getting loads like boats moving. As for the timing settings your won't notice much if anything until you start getting into the pedal more, the timing doesn't change anything until you hit the threshold. Once you hit the threshold, then you will see it lock the timing. From that point on the timing stays locked until you return under the threshold. On sw5 you have the most movement of pedal and timing. Now if you switch to sw9 with the timing on 4, the threshold is around 25% of the physical throttle. Unlike sw5 where it is about 50%. But your also not commanding 100% fueling so low either. If you run a higher sw you need to back the timing off in order to get spool on the turbo and the engine rpm up high enough. This is why @Me78569 found that the smarty always locked timing at 18.02° but what is noted is when it locks and at what throttle percentage. Which is also different based on the Revo and the SW settings.

I often wonder this when I'm coming back from a trip up at the cabin. I called a guy who had his cabin for sale, $70,000 for 2.58 acres with OGM rights. **** then I go get a job hauling fracking water for $30 an hour and love like @Mopar1973Man lol. World away from Jersey hustle. Over the 4.5 years I worked at my old job working in and out of NYC and living in PA I was told by my friends I lost my Jersey accent, but at the same time my Jersey friends said I had an Irish accent, which is weird because where I was living in PA is heavily German. The gas station I worked in required is to wash windshields. But he gave us a super long window washer like for truck stops, so it was easy for us to do. We also would check oil and such when asked. Those were the days, I think I used to get about 30 numbers a summer there. Not to mention my second girlfriend haha, first out of high school I should say.

Its more about the people, we Jerseyans are stuck up, every time this comes up on referendum, the idea of self serve, it fails. I'm not sure if it will ever become a self serve state. In what way? I'm not understanding, are you saying pumping your gas is wron, or hem playin emissions nazis?

That's also a good setting. I can put it into drive and get it up to 15mph at idle in Drive. The torque that this motor puts out with the smarty is insane. Timing 3 will help with spool depending on how far into the pedal you push, because with sw5 100% fueling is at 100% pedal movement. But with the timing on 3 it's locking the timing at 60% fuel flow which is about 60% throttle. Yes and with larger injectors the lower pop pressure is a major issue. Adding more fuel to a lower pop pressure injector advances timing to much and crates more smoke and lack of spool as you can't advance the smarty timing ahead of the lower pop pressure. Unlike a quad where your can. Even Mike was advacing his quad to 25° to even compensate for the lower pop pressure on his. I can't imagine how retarded the pop is on a smarty where the timing is fixed once it locks on the timing/sw# combination.

I fast idle, or put it into recirculation and i don't see an issue. Although I did just replace the fan clutch in another truck and it didn't do this.

Yes, but you weren't running a smarty at the time either if I remember correctly. I really think that resisting the pop offsets the smoke production. I'm just saying that for me going from 280 bar to 322 bar solved allot of my smoke issues. I can pass a SNAP test with a smarty. That's unheard of.

It did for me. My smokes issues went away at 322bar. And the settings weren't changed at all. Not only that but the trucks response was more aggressive. Aggressive to the point on sw9 I can actually break the tires lose on the highway. I think the pop pressure helps by changing the injection point and the duration is shortened as a result. But with the smarty locking timing, it's effects are so significant to me that it made a difference.

Back your TM to #3 and see how the off idle smoke is. Do you think it has more power now with it on Revo then before when you left the Revo settings on the SW# Yes indeed, but that I think too deals with injector pop pressure.

Are the older style more reliable? The ones on discount. You know I never thought about selling the parts off. Smokes that gives me another reason to buy one.

One can question the legality of it. But most of us also don't have stock trucks either. And they see a gauge pillar or a edge on your dash they will call the njdep over and they will test you for federal emissions. I was passing an check point (going the other way) the other day, and they pull people in. They don't care for what reason. If you have a truck and njdep or njdot pull you over expect to be looked over. I've seen guys from PA get popped with farm diesel when they dip the tanks. I've had njdot make me open my fuel water filter drain and they've looked at the color of the fuel. NJ passed the law in 2016 and they will find things. A friend of mine got nailed on his 2008 Dodge being deleted and he put out a puff of smoke for 1.5 seconds. The law said a maximum of 3 consecutive seconds. So 2.9 seconds is good, 3.0 is bad. Anyways, $15,000 in fines later he's still trying to get that paid down. I'm up in PA this weekend and I heard they changed the laws in PA for emissions testing now are only required after 7 year's. And certain weight classes for diesels now as well? Depends on where you go. I've seen cops walk up and hand people the $500 fine for touching that pump nozzle. Some places are forced full service. Reguardless of it being diesel or not. Welcome to the people's republic! That's a well written article Mike. I'm still happy as a pig with mine. Might as well as me in there too at the bottom. 7x.09@322BAR and no issues starting up down to 20°F. Most of NJ is this way as well. Better get your gas before 9pm, most stations close between 8-11pm. Rural areas closer to 9.

I don't plan to pull them at another 33,000 miles, but I may just to compare the pop pressures. But as long as the truck continues to be smoke free I won't be to concerned. As it stands I'm writing an article about the long term effects of pop pressure on injectors, and I'm running a long term study for increased pop pressure. and so far I've been very happy with the results. Oh I don't get upset, Its easy in a non emissions state to not care, but in this case I try to avoid the police. But the instant spool up is worse then a cheetah on cocaine, this thing spools like a chainsaw. haha NJ, Its become a **** show here with cops cracking down on smoke. And it used to just be only in certain parts its becoming more open. I was driving past a check-point today (in the other direction) and they had 3 diesel pickups pulled in and other cars, and the diesels were on the emissions testing area in the parking lot.

I may buy a new one just for the pump in-case mine decides to leave me.

That sucks. Glad i stay in PA/NJ and deal with non-dirt roads.

What do you mean by "discontinued = no MAP" jacobb?

Long story short. I have a Smarty with a built auto and 100HP injectors. Anyways, after a dooooshbag smoked out a congressman's Honda car with his ford, the state has gone nazi on all diesel pickups. As a result, I live in a state that loves to SNAP test people. They look for soot on the back corner, or a puff of smoke and they will pull you over and nail you on the side of the road. Anyways, after 5 years and 33,000 miles i started battling serious smoke/lag issues with my dodge. And after dozens of debates and circles with programmers/elbows etc I stumbled across a video from when I first installed my 100's from DAP. Well on the video I had the truck on SW7 and it was fairly smoke free. Well I called Mike and told him about the video, and that started a "I wonder if your pop pressure/injectors sticking/etc discussion. Well that lead to a discussion about pulling the injectors while I had it down for routine maintenance(takes me about 3 days to do). Well I called DAP and overnight-ed my injectors and all of them had finally settled down to 280-286BAR. which is below the BOSCH minimum of 293BAR. Armed with this information Mike told me about a thread where Nick had started talking about the effects of pop pressure on truck performance. After much debate I decided to get them popped to 322BAR. ( contacted a dozen people on different forums who had been running higher pop pressures and found that 330 to be the crossover line, but I took 8BAR off and settled for 322BAR. I put them back into the truck and I have the cleanest burning Smarty powered dodge. I've passed several SNAP tests before i downed the truck for major maintenance work. For me the change between 280BAR and 322BAR are night and day. my truck idles very smooth, i gained mpg, the turbo lights very fast now, and to top it off there is very little to no smoke on my Smarty(which has been universally agreed-ed is a smoke box) With the assumption that the truck went from 300BAR to 280 BAR in 33,000 miles, I believe that it will take about 60,000 miles for my current set to drop back to the 280BAR again. But raising the pop pressure above 310BAR you run the risk of it not starting or running correctly, There is a big grey zone here. Some have gone up as high as 360BAR without issue. But by raising my pop pressure 42BAR I got back about 4 degrees of timing back, Which means that when the Smarty locks the timing at 18.02* the mechanical offset is a retarded 4*. Which is why my truck is now very clean and street-able. <See my comment above> In your case with your smarty thread I think you would fall into the low pop pressure category. You can mechanically advance the timing with the pop pressure and get better timing with the Smarty to burn clean and give you much better response. My truck runs like a raped ape with SW5, TM3 T4 D3. I can get a 25,000lbs 5th wheel up and running with virtually no smoke, I can pass trucks on the northeast extension with no issues and she pulls hard. Night and day difference to my old 280 BAR injectors. Well first this here is that this only effects mechanical injectors. Common Rail Injectors don't have these issues. But most people including myself don't realize or recognize the signs of low pop pressure. Even so most people don't bother to pop their injectors till its way to late, and the injectors are in the 260 range. The questions to be asked in the think-tanks here isn't how long in miles or time, but engine use. When we start adding programmers and such to these engines anything that Cummins/BOSCH etc specify goes out the window. How many trucks buy larger injectors and hold them over that period span before replacing them. I've spoke to several injector shops and they have all said that the average turnover is high for injectors. They have also said that a 10BAR drop is normal in the first 20,000 miles. But most also drop pop pressure to compensate for the added duration, so that the ending of the injection period is the same as the end of a smaller stock injector. Even so the effects of pop pressure on smaller injectors like 60's or 75hp are also proportional to the size. Popping 75's to 320BAR will pose bigger issues then popping 100HP injectors for example. Besides if time is an issue could just have them send you a set of new 100's and sent your old ones off, and your back up and running in 4 hours.

Two things here control that haze, TM setting and the pop pressure. good luck with that, I've tried and had no luck either. With a lower TM and a higher Timing on SW5 you will notice a huge change in spool up. Honestly, I've never been able to understand why this is. But Its one of those things where the TM will effect the torque out of the motor, and for some reason the shifting. I've had the truck operate smoke free on TM2, but I had to spend a stupid amount of time adjusting my TV cable. So I found that TM3 is the best base to start from. Not to mention your running a HY-35 which also effects temperatures and spool up. Yep, not a problem, but like I said I haven't a clue what causes it, I just know that turning the D down solved it, and the passing smoke as well.

Is the smoke before or after the turbo lights(builds boost) I've not noticed any issues towing, it does help spool the turbo quicker though for me. In my expierance the higher the TM# the shorter they are, TM2 for me it draggs the shifts out to 2,400rpm, on TM3 I seem to have about 1,800, and on TM6 it shifts around 1,500. But TV cable adjustment will also effect this. I typically run TM3 with my truck, I haven't noticed any issues with Timing on 4, but timing locks later on 3 by % throttle. The dead spot you speak of I only experiences when I was running to much fueling on the duration. And that is because I think the VP-44 is over fueling the injectors and its screwing with the dynamic timing. There is a flat timing curve between 1,600 and 2,100 i believe, because regardless of RPM i seem to have the same pyrometers. Sections 5, 6, and 7, give a base for understanding how the smarty hits hard down low, yes it changes the torque down low, but its how hard you go into the throttle. Some of Nick's testing on the Smarty and cANbus testing thread does back up my claims and theories in my article. I believe if you always go to 70% of your pedal all of the time, then the SW settings will not matter as much, but they do matter since the revo settings still control the other side of the smarty. Reaching 100% fueling command is one thing, the other is the control of fueling according to boost, and the timing of the engine at the rpm's. TM effects pre turbo fueling, and too much causes surge, not enough can take to long to light the turbo, now timing does effect this, but not in the case people think. Its dynamic, meaning that smashing the pedal down is variable, choosing what you feel can be challenging at times. For example with me my truck on SW9 with the timing on 4 locks timing as quickly as 25% of the available throttle, which is to low for me with my built automatic. But back the timing off to 2 and it runs like an ape. Even if i keep the TM at 6 which smokes like a train till it spools. Conversely backing the smarty down to SW5 I notice the turbo lighting, and the surging/egt's are all different between Timing on 2 and timing on 4, and this is because of how much available throttle is needed before the smarty locks up the timing. Now if you simply put your foot into the throttle say 60% of the way everywhere you go you won't see the differences as much as the controllability.

While not at altitude my current setup is a beast towing in the mountains of PA. I think 100's are a great set up but there are guys who live in the mountains who can give you better advice. DAP injector are great, IMO get them popped slightly higher, or pull them and get them popped every 30,000 miles as a preventive measure.

I have 7x.09's

I think this is the center of your issue. I pulled my injectors on my truck after 33,000 miles and mine were well below the minimum spec. They were set to 305bar when i purchased them new, and pulled them they were 280-286. I had constant hazing and smoke, although after a never ending war with my smarty I did get it fairly clean. I pulled them after watching a video i shot with my truck running my smarty when i first got them with it burning clean, which then lead me to pull and get them checked. @Mopar1973Man can tell you about the injector pulling and testing game I went through. I currently have mine popped to 322bar, and I saw a huge difference, because I think 290 is the bottom end of the mechanical offset for the smarty. With the programmable limitations of the smarty I have see a huge change with the mechanical offset of raising the pop pressure. Spool up is a huge difference, and I've been able to add allot of fueling back and it burns clean. Remember that the dynamic and static timing changes with pop pressure.

Turn duration down to 3 and TM onto 4. Also how many miles do you have on your current set of injectors?

I wrote that guide in a way to help guide users in dialing their smarty in. you can tell which settings to dial in based on what the truck is doing smoke wise pre/post boost. If you have a haze at idle its most likely fueling, I'd say dial back the TM#, because its pre boost fooling. If your passing someone on the highway for example and you have tons of smoke then your duration needs to be turned back. Spool-up issues is directly related to timing, and which # you select. The higher the SW# the more you must lower the Timing. Can't run timing on 4 with the SW on 9. But it works great on SW5. I don't assume that the TM/T/D are related to any set SW#. because to me in order to clear up pre boost smoke i have to lower the TM# the higher i go with the SW#. For example with SW9 I can barely get TM3 to not smoke. but with SW5 i can get much better throttle response with TM on 4 or 5. I think that 5 is borderline without popping injectors. Now to explain WHY this is. The SW9 fuels very hard off idle, and you hit 100% fueling very quickly on the actual physical throttle, (about 35%), on SW5 I hit 100% fueling command around 60% of physical throttle. Now the difference is drive-ability. Its much easier to control fueling and smoke with more pedal control. And as such you can also add more torque with pre-boost fueling (Higher TM) then when you have a pedal that's more sensitive. A good example of this is the cruise control surge. When I dialed back my TM# on SW5 from 6 to 4 i lost the Cruise Control Surge issues. I can drive the truck with cruise control and it doesn't go nuts. Now explain why this is?

Can I ask why you have the Duration set so high? What is the Torque Management set to?

The timing isn't added/raised by raising the number, its how soon it locks the timing, Your still putting out too much fuel, the correlation between when it locks the timing and the fueling depends on the SW# and the Timing number. The smoke is due to the lack of timing, you need to run timing to clear up the smoke, and or turn back your duration or TM#'s to control the pre/post boost fueling.

My fass 95 is the red series, and its loud outside. But I check my fuel pressure constantly on my gauge. I hope it lasts for a long time.