LorenS

Would increasing the Max Load Timing Offset help with that?

In my experience with other applications it will. And reading enough on this site for a few years, it's clear it happens to others as well. No promises it will fix your issue, but it certainly could. Important to replace both batteries! My last set of batteries for current truck were from the previous owner, Wal-Mart brand. Were six years old and would still be going strong but at some point one of the posts started to leak acid/gas where it meets the case. Too much "oomph" removing a stubborn terminal, I'd guess. I replaced with two DEKA Gold brand batteries from the local guy for $270, total. No need to spend $600 for batteries unless it makes you feel good. I know some people love all the CCA they can get, but I really feel the manufacturers get those high ratings at the expense of durability (like mechanically able to take the vibrations and bounces our trucks dish out). Like the distance between plates is reduced or something, so if a piece of plate finally busts loose it can't fall to the bottom but instead shorts out.

I dropped my 1500 base timing to 15, maxed the Low PSI Timing Reduction, and she runs even better! Returning from lunch I stopped on a flat road and did a "roll into the throttle" acceleration run (as opposed to just stomping pedal to floor). I saw not even a whisp of smoke, so when I got back to work I sat in the truck a minute and upped the CANbus fueling some - instead of staying a steady 15% after 7 PSI I kept adding 2% per PSI up to 23%. I'll drive home with that and see what I think. The thing is, with a 0.69 overdrive the engine is only around 1200 RPM at 45 MPH which is a normal speed around here. 3rd gear 55 MPH is ~2,000 RPM.

This morning I made the drive to work with the new setup. I wasn't to 120* when I the interstate onramp, but was shortly thereafter. When I got to where I work it's river bottom ground so very flat. I was on Level 2, did a few big throttle acceleration runs from a couple stop signs, and just by increasing the Low PSI Timing Reduction from 3.5 to 5 degrees made a huge difference! Whether at lunch or after work I'll set her to Level 3 and see what happens. Notes: EGTs dropped about 100F. I normally would see upper 700's and even 8XX degrees just cruising on the interstate slow rollers, and other than when I gave her the business, I don't think it ever cracked 700F. Nice to hear the turbo for once, and it is SO QUIET in the cab now! Of course it was quieter before my old tailpipe fell off, too, but not THIS quiet! It's a straight-through muffler, perforated. I don't believe I have ever hit 25 PSI (MAP/Quadzilla, not standalone gauge yet) unless pulling a trailer up a hill. Did it at least once this morning during acceleration run. I saw 0 PSI boost while at low load a few times, the old 9cm^2 HY35 seemed to always be 1-2 pounds unless sitting still. This HE351W is 12cm^2. I wish I had before and after of drive pressures. Next order of business is the 8 x .0085 injectors! And/or the wastegate actuator install - wired shut right now.

Low PSI, or Light Load (cruise)? That's what she said!

His code reader is $1,200 so hopefully it's better than our OBD Link units!

Instead of starting off at 13⁰ to help spool the turbo at high engine load and low boost (taking off from a stop), why not set the base to 14 or 15⁰ and up the Low PSI Timing Reduction a degree or two? I thought that's what it is for. Am I wrong?

The Sharpie method got us there. Not sure what kind of magic pliers you have for that snap ring. If I have to do it again, a giant set of needle nose will be sacrificed to make a giant set of snap ring pliers. Or do the spot weld trick.

I can't imagine fitting that under the truck, but I bet it's quiet! Anything complicated for mounts to support that weight?

On my Adrenaline? Daily LKS 210305.json Max Load Timing Offset: 1* Low PSI Timing Reduct: 3.5* Timing Reduct Scaling: 60% Light Throttle Advance: 3* Load Limit: 40% 16 19 22 25 27 CANbus: 0 PSI = 100 Basically steps up at 2% per PSI. +7PSI I hit 115% and just keep it there.

A buddy came over this afternoon so I got the new turbo on and my new Diamond Eye 4" exhaust installed. I did NOT do anything for the waste gate, it's just wired shut right now. My HY-35 gate has been rusted shut since I bought the truck 62k miles ago, so no big deal to me! Turbo lag is a little noticeable compared to that tiny model, but sure feels good when it kicks in. My HY had 2 studs in it and two in the manifold, this turbo does not have the studs (drilled out, not tapped) so it got some bolts. I used the exhaust with the muffler and holy smokes is it a lot quieter at the back of the truck; obviously the engine still sounds like dump truck in a nitroglycerin factory. Very satisfying to finally hear some turbo whistle while accelerating! Was shocked the oil drain bolts came out of the old turbo, but were removed "on the bench", not in the truck. Had to pull the oil filter to remove turbo, downpipe, and oil drain as an assembly.

Did a little work this evening, the old turbo is held on by one loose but on a stud, the oil drain hose has top hose clamp loose. A quick cut through the exhaust pipe with the band saw and it should be ready to come out. I think I should have purchased a new drain pipe and bolts, there's no way those bolts are coming out of the turbo! I do have new gaskets, thankfully.

I guess because I haven't put tack welds on the ring. Yet. Yes. Adjusting the center to the turbine housing I'd the easy part, just 4 bolts! The answer to my above question seems to be that compressor outlet is at ~25° from horizontal, rising towards the passenger side. Pretty rough measurement using a Milwaukee level with a rotating vial.

I hadn't thought of that! Maybe it is still together, I really don't remember but will check when I get home. It's sitting in the 'extra parts' area and I had forgotten about it.

Does anyone have good knowledge of what the turbo angles should be? As best as I could estimate on my truck with the current turbo installed (due to rust, certain components will be destroyed upon removal - and I don't have a spare vehicle right now) it seems: the exhaust manifold mounting flange is 48 degrees (measured from horizontal). EDIT: May be closer to 50 degrees based on my truck, after removing turbo for better measurement. The compressor outlet is "around" 20 degrees from horizontal. EDIT: I'd say I would up more around 25 degrees or a little steeper to keep everything very well aligned and no stress on the rubber boot. I would like to change the turbo back this weekend, and really want to get my turbo clocked correctly this evening so I have just one less thing to worry about after taking a Sawzall/smoke wrench to certain parts of my truck. I have failed so far at getting that compressor snap ring back in, so once it gets back in I don't want to have to make corrections! Any help appreciated! I don't have the right tool to measure that compressor discharge flange angle. I removed the boot/elbow one evening this week to measure the angle, but then discovered I haven't the right tool to do so. @dripley this may interest you once I get the data. Hopefully we can further refine the path blazed by @Blueox01 so BenzeForce can just offer these turbos already setup for our application.

Have you put an ohm meter (volt meter) on the APPS to see if it's smooth (when hot)? How about checking or replacing temperature sensor? ECM cares about temp, and sensors can be affected by temperature (weak solder joints, etc) Just throwing stuff against the wall to see what might stick or jog loose another idea from someone else.

This thread is like Perry Mason or Columbo, but for 2nd Gen, 24V guys. I'm sorry you're the victim!

Just confirmed it's a perfect match to the elbow that mated up to my HY-35. Of course, now that you're talking S-300/400 it's probably moot.

The VP timing does change when cold. Sure sounds like an electrical issue, but before sending off an ECM I'd make sure most other possibilities have been exhausted. Have you checked valve lash? Since you have problems with it when hot, maybe one or more cylinders were set too tight. Any odd smoke or other clues?

Thank you for the effort to educate me. I seem to be in the Graduate level course, and will meekly exit to go find the 101 course.

At what point does a guy jump to 14 cm² ? I hope I didn't mess up getting a 12 cm² vs. the 9 cm² of my current HY-35.

I don't know yet. Packing to head out of town for a few days so it will be a while before I have an answer. However, in Blueox01's write-up he didn't mention that being a problem so I'm optimistic.

Do you mean the little divot at 22-7/16? I haven't tried taking that apart any farther. However, while attempting to estimate the compressor clocking (based on Blueox01's photos) it seems the waste gate diaphragm and the compressor housing interfere. Guess I'll sort that out come install day. My waste gate may just get wired shut for a while. First and foremost I need the turbo mounted and new exhaust so it will pass inspection!

Oh, and no pins.

Yes, that's the one. Sorry for the old link! It was to a pre-sale link. And yes, I took it apart to clock it. With the tools I have here at the house I couldn't get the ring off without removing turbine housing. The HX35 snout should fit, it's the same 5-bolt flange. I had the Wuhans back in September, took over a month before my smell and taste came back.