LorenS

The passenger side light is noticeably better, being the HID while the other is the halogen. Is it as good as my wife's Honda with projectors? Nope. But it's WAY better than what I had! Now that I took these photos tonight I'm going to change out the other one soon and hopefully get to a particular dark, lightly traveled twisty road I know of to get another round of photos. I'm still concerned about the relay not switching back and forth, however. I did not try the high beams tonight and I plan to always carry a set of Halogens in the glove box in case I need to switch back to resolve the issue. Adding these HIDs sure adds a lot of possible failure points(non-stock relay, ballast, ignitors, etc.) to something that was super simple and repairable at any late-night truck stop or junkyard! They are OE style housings. TYC, though I don't remember if I chose the NSF or CAPA certified, but I imagine they're both sham organizations that wouldn't like Tommy Boy at all. "Hey, if you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it guaranteed, I will. I got spare time." I found what I wanted on RockAuto and ordered by part number from someone on Ebay. To answer your second question, they're fine. Just brighter than the other light, but not like a flashlight in the face. But, my eyes are a little over 66" off the ground and I was 20 feet from the truck. Someone sitting in a Miata 150' away may disagree! Maybe another test before I make additional changes is to park the truck behind the wife's Honda and take some photos of where the lights hit it. Almost 11 PM here, so not going to happen tonight. I'd be in hot water if the engine woke a kid!

Here are some pics from my phone. I'll try to edit the post from my laptop to editorialize on a real keyboard. Okay, here we go. The pics basically speak for themselves. The new HID 9004/9007 light setup from Morimoto is on the passenger side. It's the 5k Kelvin temperature/color. If I had it to do again, I would personally try the 4300 Kelvin color. I just like yellowy light, I know I'm in the minority on that one! Workbench lights, operating tables, etc. are another matter. The head-on picture really makes it look like the headlight is blinding to oncoming traffic, but it's just that much brighter than the Sylvania halogen. I had cleaned both housings earlier today in preparation to take the photo. Both housings were changed within several days of one another about 2.5 years and 34k miles ago; the 18 months I owned the truck I think I only put 1k miles on it. In my opinion, it's difficult to tell if the Honda is a sedan or a minivan in the pictures because the light doesn't go up that high. Granted, it isn't exactly down the road in "blinding" territory. Let me know if you have any questions.

Hint taken, however last night after dark I became Santa's assembly man for my 3 year old's toys! When 1130 rolled around I just wanted to go to bed. I'll try his evening to get pics showing one bulb of each type against the garage door.

I changed the passenger side to HID and kept the driver's side the halogen. The two patterns were the same when shone on the shop garage door. It's possible to install the bulbs upside down if one doesn't bother to read the directions. Maybe that's what causes so many people problems. I drove through the twisty, dark roads heading home from Ol' Dad's house, and I damn sure wasn't lighting up the tops of 60' trees. When I pulled up behind cars later on, I couldn't see inside their car, etc. When I parked the truck, walked down the street a while and looked back at my truck, the new light looked brighter, but not as if it was on high beams. I know from my after sunset walks with the dog that there's a lot of newer cars driving around my neighborhood that are "worse". Maybe Morimoto knows what they're doing with those particular bulbs in a CAPA and/or NSF certified replacement housings, I don't know. I do know that some kind of lazy gremlin has take up residence in the HID lighting system that sometimes will turn the high beam on/off and sometimes won't (as tested in the driveway), no matter how the proprietary, gandy relay is mounted. Tonight's drive home I made sure the bulb was on the low setting before hitting the road and didn't try the high beam. The next step will be to cut out the infested Morimoto relay and replace it with gremlin-free Hella relays. Their little kit looks nice, but whether the lights scatter light like a disco ball or shoot laser beams, I need the lights to take commands.

Other than bulb color, that's what I ordered!

If I hadn't read @Mopar1973Man's glowing review of the 35W system driving through dark canyons full of animals larger than corn fed Iowa whitetails, I'd have gone the 50W route. Seeing his photos, I'm confident I don't need more wattage! If there is a lighting problem, then I'll retrofit some proper mini or D2S projectors the the clear lense housings I ordered last night. Anzo USA 111067.

I guess I'm going to be a light scattering jerk for a bit, as I bought this months ago when I read they were "reflector" compatible (near bottom of the page, before the Reviews section). https://www.theretrofitsource.com/9004-9007-morimoto-elite.html If they're terrible for oncoming traffic, etc., I'll put the old junk back in and order a better setup!

Forgive my ignorance, please. Can the ANZO USA 111196 lights be used with HID lights, or will the pattern be totally messed up because they're designed for halogen lights? My issue is that I already purchased the Mirimoto electrical components and bulbs, just no housings or projectors!

You got the right feeling. The day I have the kind of money to be concerned with that, I'll buy a second truck. My dad had an 01 3500 with NV5600 and Edge EZ (and 3.55 gears?!); it was Goldilocks, Just Right.

I can upgrade the VB and TC if that's what I need to do to not be stranded or send hard/clutch bits through the rest of the transmission. Would a single disc from Goerend be sufficient? I'm not yet 40 but drive like I'm in my 70's - no offense to cool guys in their 70's. This is likely due to the fact I've always had to fix my own car. Honestly, if I don't have to do so to make a tune work, then I won't even tap the injection pump wire. I was considering an Edge EZ or Quadzilla XZT+, but for a couple hundred more would like the control and options available on the Adrenaline.

Between selling stuff and saving, I have some extra fun money to spend on making my truck more powerful and hopefully more efficient. I see that DAP has Adrenaline units on sale, so am about to bite the bullet on one of those. I do have some questions as to what other items should be on the shopping list. Here is a list of what I do have or will have done in the next couple of weeks: EGT gauge Fuel Pressure Gauge Modest lift pump (FASS DRP relocated to beside tank with Draw Straw) 3" Exhaust Automatic transmission in good shape, but so far as I know it's mostly stock (accumulator piston, governor pressure solenoid, Servo Cove plate, pressure transducer all upgraded). Not sure what previous owner may have upgraded, if anything. Running Amsoil in the transmission and read diff, Rotella T6 in the engine due to finding it for $2.25/quart after rebate! HY35 Bosch Reman injectors, about 30k miles on them. Valves set on the tight tolerance side, I believe 0.008/0.018" W-T Mod and clean electrical connections. With 307k miles, all kinds of other, small stuff has been replaced in the 34k miles I have owned the truck. Had an engine oil analysis done on last oil change, and it came back good after 10k miles. I plan to add a transmission temp gauge or dummy light(s), and have the Adrenaline monitor engine oil temp, but am open to suggestions on the matter. As some may have noticed in the Classifieds ads, I am looking for an HX35 turbo. I know 3" exhaust isn't popular, but unless overwhelmingly recommended to upgrade, I plan to keep that exhaust at least until I upgrade turbo. I see no reason to buy an exhaust for one type of turbo, then have to buy another downpipe because I need a 4" v-band downpipe for a Borg Warner S300G, etc. My goal is to have some better performance while very occasionally pulling a 7k lb box/travel trailer on long trips, or heavier trailers much shorter distances (150 miles). I do not visit Death Valley nor do I plan to take said trailer over the Rocky Mountains. However, I do venture to places it's frequently over 100 or under 0 degrees and windy. Is there a set of injectors that I should pick up with this Adrenalin, good for a guy who plans to soon have an HX35? Is there a particular, really good starting-point tune for this type of setup that I should buy off of this site? I would never think of putting 100 HP injectors in my truck until Me said it was a good approach, with a tuner that can shorten duration to keep smoke down. Will these big injectors cause problems when it's well into the negative temperatures, until the program kicks in at 140 or 170 engine coolant temp? Is that one reason to choose a tune WITHOUT the temperature limits? So many questions! I hate to tag people, so I hope dieselautopower, Me78569, etc., happen across here and have some good advice for this very basic setup!

Thanks, Haggar I'll definitely look into the purple Loctite. I also like the idea of the longer screw and a jam nut. I don't really want to mess up the threads in there!

I've had to adjust the screw at least 6 times so far, sometimes after driving only 22 miles or so after driving to work! It's not surprising, I suppose, it seems very loose. Any recommendations on something to 'gum up the works' a little? LocTite Blue seems a little extreme, but I don't want anything very tacky, either, to get covered in dirt and grime and cause other problems. The screw is working its way in, raising my idle speed. As many times as I've turned that screw "out", it'd be all the way out if it wasn't going back it on its own.

"Fixed" the problem with the adjustment screw, but still can't determine what caused the need to adjust it a whole turn or more.

That's what my first thought was, but wanted to make sure it was as straightforward as a bell-crank set screw adjustment, and not a "false" 4.3% reading based on who-knows-what designed in the PCM or body computer, because of a Daimler-Chrysler summer intern designed Rube Goldberg way of doing things.

"Absolute Throttle Position" is now showing 4.3% even with my foot off the pedal and throttle against the set screw under the hood. I still have not unhooked my batteries for a reset of sorts. I haven't touched the APPS in thousands of miles; bought a TIMBO from Mike months ago, and when I went to put it on found out that's what's already installed! So, I have a spare TIMBO. ECT and IAT all seem correct. The MAP sensor registered 14.8 PSIA even with the engine off - that doesn't normally make sense in Kansas City, but NOAA confirms we're at 30.3 inches of Mercury today, aka 14.8 PSIA! Bright blue skies today. Do I follow the "Stopping the Myths" directions to make sure I'm below the voltage? I have not touched the set screw under the throttle cover.

The ECT is used by ECM which then feeds a signal to the dashboard gauge, correct? Or are they a parallel circuit with the gauge and the ECM reading the same sensor but not affecting one another? I ask because the gauge reads the way it always does, but if it's a parallel path then the wire feeding the ECM could have an issue and make it up the idle, right? The fact it all started with the transmission service is the odd thing to me. The "high trans temp" light isn't on, but does the engine high idle to circulate fluid when it believes the transmission is hot but not "so hot I need to light the dummy light"? It's not cold enough to warrant it, but last night I plugged the truck block heater into the timer, so when I fired it up this morning the engine idled at 850ish (did not think to look at ECT on OBDLink). Got to work 25 miles later and the engine idle was up. I did not add a drain (nor a temp sender hole) to my transmission pan, so sure hope I don't have to drain it to wiggle the temp sender wire! Is there another temp sensor wire I may have bonked/tweaked/jostled on the outside of the transmission case?

No tuner of any kind, though I do desire to purchase one! Meant to unhook batteries when I got to work but forgot. Hoping a little battery-free reset will do some good. A fellow here also recommended I check to make sure the MAP sensor is reading correctly, that "if he recalled correctly" the MAP sensor reading can trump the ECM's desire to idle at 850ish. Will read the OBDLink with engine off before unhooking batteries to make sure it reads 0 PSIG, ~14 PSIA, or equivalent in metric. As a side note, the air filter is newish and still very clean. Is it possible that I have a lot of oil blowby though the turbo causing such a problem? I have strong doubts that's the problem because the truck drives the same as always and the idle is super stable. This issue also came up IMMEDIATELY after transmission service. The 8-way electrical connector went back together exactly as one would expect, smooth with a nice click. Could I have done something wrong in the valve body work to cause this? Pressure/temperature sensor connection wasn't removed, and I did push on it just to make sure it was still connected before putting it all back together. While crawling under the truck, I noticed my red CAD vacuum line worked its way out of the elbow (again). I reconnected that while the engine was running, and to absolutely no surprise at all nothing happened with the idle.

I have not adjusted anything near the APPS, which is a Timbo, but I'll look to see if it's at the stop. I'll also look at the TV cable and return spring under the truck. Thanks, gentlemen.

Friday I serviced the transmission, including taking out the valve body to replace plastic accumulator piston with metal one, (manual valve?) to allow flow to torque converter while in Park. I have noticed the last couple of days that the truck - even when warm after 30 mile drive - idles higher than normal, around 1250 versus 800ish RPM. This is in park or neutral. The tach isn't wonky, I only looked at the tach because it sounded fast. Idle while in drive seems normal. I have checked the transmission fluid after 30 mile drive home on interstate, truck in neutral on level ground and it's in the middle of the hatch mark, same as the last 30k miles. Fluid is not "foamy". Anyone have any ideas on what may cause this? No other symptoms or driveability issues. Fuel pressure same as always, engine temp the same, EGTs run the same, voltmeter reads the same, even the MPG estimator seems normal. I'm befuddled! Had over 200 miles on the tank of fuel before symptoms showed up.

If I go WOT in OD, it'll downshift about every time. Engine RPM comes up and fuel pressure goes up. I've never even seen it drop to 5 PSI. I'm hoping next Thursday or Friday I can take a day to address the matter.

I have also purchased a similar spin-on prefilter that uses Donaldson filter to protect the FASS I bought, much preferring a big spin-on to the tiny in-line filter they supplied (and said needed to be changed every 5k miles!) Maybe someday before I break down on the side of the road my wife and kids will "let" me complete this work. When you say you have the same pump, are you on the stock Carter, or did you mean the FASS? If your Carter is putting out 20 PSI, that's amazing to me!

I have read the Caterpillar, University of (Indiana?) and Air Dog, etc. documents about entrained air in diesel fuel affecting power and retarding injection events. Does anyone know if that significantly affects MPG and EGT in our trucks, specifically? It sure seems like my EGT is higher than most (700-800F), my MPG is around 17.5-18 (hand calc) even at 65 MPH in average weather/wind conditions running empty. When I give the fuel a super dose of PDS gray stuff to increase cetane in an effort to advance the ignition, everything improves - but PDS gray isn't free, even if it isn't expensive. I ran Rotella T6 almost 10k miles and had an oil analysis done to check for fuel dilution, coolant, etc. It came back with a good bill of health, including TBN. Before I found this site I had purchased a FASS DRP pump and relocation kit which I have not yet installed, so am still running Carter on the block. I have clean fuel filter, pressure usually in the 8-12 PSI range measured at the VP44 (Vulcan big line from filter to IP), but does drop to around 6 PSI on long grades when I baby it to stay in overdrive (automatic) - with EGT climbing to 1100F . Should I really be looking at putting in an expensive Air Dog, and sell the FASS? The fuel lines from the tank to pump are stock, truck has 300k miles. Should I upsize those and change all gaskets, etc., on the suction side ensure I'm not sucking in air? I do not know the health of the in-tank screen or if it's still there. Symptoms are the same regardless of fuel tank level. Any advice appreciated, even to forget about it because it's normal.

I can think of no persuasive reason to use a 4/0 or even 2/0 ground "crossover cable" to the other battery when you already have 1/0 grounds to the engine block from each battery. The 4-gauge crossover wire will eliminate the voltage drops at each of those connections at the block, better ensuring you have the same voltage at each battery. Sizing it the same as your alternator (4 gauge) wire seems a good rule of thumb. The largest current draw by far is the starter, which grounds through the block - that is why each battery gets a large ground connected to it. If you were to attempt grounding the engine to only one battery directly, then a large (1/0, for example) crossover wire to the other battery would certainly be recommended/required. In that case the ground wire from the engine to the one battery should (probably) be upgraded to 2/0. That said, if you want to spend the time and money to run 3" pipe to your ice maker, yes, it will reduce losses. Mopar1973Man's recommendation to put some engine oil on the cable connections to keep them in great shape will net far greater returns.

I had strongly considered one of those with the green hose. I'm still on the fence as to whether I should change my oil pan due to damage, and the new pans have an 18mm drain vs. the 22mm we all know and love. Until I finally make up my mind on the matter, I won't be buying a drain. I'm also not sure I can justify the $50 cost when I only change the oil a couple of times per year!