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hdpwipmonkey

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    Cornelius, OR

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  1. When you import a tune you can change the name so export your tune and when you go to re-import it change the name to whatever you want...
  2. I installed mine like @Me78569 mentioned. Power from OE lift pump to relay and power from drivers side battery. I just followed the instructions that came with the Fass. I had no issues with the install. bumped the key to prime the system and cracked loose the number 1,3,5 lines and turned key a few times till diesel was spraying out pretty well while cranking and then then tightened them up and turned the key and it started and idled rough a little while till all the air was out then it ran like a (noisy) top. @OmahaGen2 did yours not come with the relay and wiring?
  3. I think its subscription based now... https://mopar1973man.com/subscriptions/
  4. I use an Asus Chromebook 2 in 1 for most of my surfing and email stuff. I have a custom built desktop that I use for all my heavy lifting (gaming, video editing, ect). A Chromebook is a laptop that runs off of the Chrome OS. If you've used Android tablets or phones then you can use a Chromebook. So far I really like it. Super fast and no bloatware to bog it down. I think its the C302 if I remember correctly. It was a little expensive for a Chromebook but I wanted one with a better processor and not a Celeron.
  5. I'm still learning the Quad too... That was going to be my next suggestion was to get the stealth cover. Takes the guess work out of wire tapping.
  6. You can find the tune builder here: https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/59_fuel/quadzilla-adrenaline-v2-tune-builder-for-pc-r532/ No reason to wire tap if you aren't going to use it but you could always do the wire tap and just not set the tune to use it but it'll be there in case you need it. If you leave it on level 3 it will only use timing and canbus fueling. It will only use wiretap on level 4 or higher and thats on any tune you load.
  7. The tune builder on the website here is for on a computer. You can build a tune using the app on your phone though. I just download what I want off the site here or use the tune builder on my PC then email it to myself to load it on my phone.
  8. Congrats on getting a Quad. Best thing I ever did for my truck yet! I didn't get a fuel pressure module with mine as I already had a fuel pressure gauge on the A-pillar. I didn't have to hook mine up to the computer either. The Quad module was already up to date. Are you getting the bluetooth or WiFi module with it to run it with your phone? You'll load the tunes onto your phone and then when the quad starts and the phone connects it'll load the currently selected tune. I use the "Daily Stock Injector with Meat". I am on stock injectors though. There is the tune builder that you can use to make a tune for what your set up is if you can't find one that matches your setup.
  9. @TimothyGlad the OBD2 scanner worked for you. Now you have some idea of what to fix. They are definitely a good tool to have in your toolbox and they will work on any vehicle (1996 and newer).
  10. I've never used it on anything with out a CEL on but everything that I did use it on found the code that tripped the CEL and was able to reset it. They do work. Even the cheap one. I figured it would be a cheap alternative instead of taking it to a shop. Its worth a try.
  11. You could get a cheap bluetooth obdII reader and read the codes through your phone (you can also use it as a live data reader). They sell them on Amazon for really cheap to not-so cheap. Here are a few selections. Cheap and not-so cheap I have a cheap one and not so cheap one and they both work well for finding codes. I've never tried using them on vehicles with out a CEL on though but they should be able to find any stored codes. This might be a cheaper alternative then just taking it to a shop.
  12. @24vcumminspower 24% to 26% at 70 mph on level ground. I checked it on my way west and back east and it was the same both directions.
  13. Maybe you just fried one of the sensors like coolant temp or IAT and the ECM is trying to offset it and that's why it seems to idle higher now. You can try checking the senor readings at start up with a live data tool. They should be close to what ambient temperature is when you first start the vehicle.
  14. I can check tomorrow while I'm on the highway on my way to the coast.
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