Dieselinmyblood

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Damn ... that truck is beautiful! That’s literally what I just bought except red and no camper shell. Unfortunately 4x4 is what most people go after but such a flawless truck like that should still fetch a nice price. Your not far from Florida, specifically Ocala. The horse capital of America. Trucks like ours were made for areas like that. To pull trailers on the highway. I know people want to go mudding and what not but that’s such a rare activity compared to doing work and pulling a trailer . I’m in flat west Texas and all my trucks are 2wd. They ride better, weigh less and get a little better fuel economy. I don’t understand how accept for obvious mountainous and high frequency bad weather areas people don’t favor a 2wd .

I honestly don’t have any experience with these specific products but the vertical or horizontal lead should be fairly obvious. Do you have a picture of your current alternator? I have a 99 and if I remember correctly mine comes out the back . Horizontal or your first picture.

Hey, not sure what platform your selling it on but broaden that aspect of it . My 2nd gen is a new purchase for me and I just got lucky enough to be local to the sale and if the guy was being honest I beat out about 4 other people from out of town . Might be hard to swallow but 1st gens are classics and our second gens (wether 12 or 24 valve) are becoming classics as well . Someone will understand and hunt down a truck like that . My dad has an incredible 99 4x4 extended cab long bed with 6 speed . He got it 3 years old and maintained it like he taught me to maintain my trucks and it currently has 223000 miles . Gaurenteed he could sell it for 10k right now . Where are you located? I’m in Texas and these trucks move faster then you can blink . Again like I said I was lucky to get mine (which is a 53 block). I’ve been working on my 1st 2nd and 3rd gen collection for a long time. I’ve had the 1st and 3rd for years . Like everyone has been saying just hit the highlights and I would broaden your sales area because if you haven’t seen it I will tell you first hand . People are flying in from across the states to buy these trucks

I’m not trying to do it permanently. I meant once it’s acting up I can flip a switch to send power where it needs to be and turn the ignition off so it isolates it to only the ecm and vp44. I’m not looking for codes since it hasn’t produced any, anyways and I have a gps to monitor speed . It’s just a test . If my issues go away I can start hunting wires or the pcm if they stay then it’s a pump or ecm . I actually found those grounds yesterday afternoon.

I struggle to respond to this because I have a sneaking suspicion that someone switched gauge clusters on this truck but I have a confirmed 53 block with unconfirmed 327xxx miles on it . My issue with the mileage is that outside of the electrical mess I’m dealing with, this engine is flawless. No cracks, no and I mean I will post a video, NO BLOW BY. Operating temperature for several hours, pull the cap and my first gen with 137xxx and mega cab with 150xxx have more blow by.

Ok, sorry it’s been a bit ... my girlfriends friends car is currently blocking the truck in the drive way . I’ve checked a lot of the grounds and they are the same or within .01 of the battery with a fluke 87. I know this is a small update but IBMobile got me to thinking about some other info i read/watched. It’s rare, but smart people put Cummins engines in ford trucks or other projects. I’ve seen a video of some one “hotwiring” (his words) an ECM and vp44 system. I’ve printed off moparmans schematics and one other that seemed worthwhile . Can I (key off accept for steering lock) send both powers to the ECM and drive the truck like that ? Isolate literally everything accept the ecm and vp44 ? It’s a manual after all

Ya my crp 123 is kinda sketchy on the 99. The solus definitely ties in better with the system . I like your idea . I’m going to leave early and drive it to work tomorrow so I can get the dash information talked about earlier and now to try your idea. Ive test driven it and pulled into my driveway once it’s acting up to perform the wire shake down test. I even pulled the little tiny cover off the pump to inspect for rubber and pinched wires . I’ll continue with this though especially when it’s acting up. I have tried putting new relays in and even new fuses. (I’ve seen to many cases of hairline fractures in the micro fuses that cause really weird stuff) I really felt initially like my issue could have been in the PDC. Ive only done a visual on the grounds for corrosion so far I need to go deeper into them . Where is the G125 ground located ? Oh and an easy way to check the ECM besides pulling the plug off ? I haven’t removed the cover to back probe it yet .

Oh that’s my bad . I thought you meant a consistent power loss . The power loss I had was momentary . The truck is fully stock except for exhaust and upgraded fuel system to get rid the crummy stock stuff. Sump under tank, all half inch lines to a 140 Gph pump then to a fuel separator and high efficiency filter, then half inch to the pump with the little in line fitting to tap into for fuel pressure

Ya no kidding... only person I know is my dad and he’s 300 miles away

I’ll go check in a second . What’s ironic is that my cheaper scanner shows me which data link it successfully connects to but my solus just tells me which key it’s using . Ok I made the solus attempt a connect in a different way and it backed up the other one. Both are accessing the ISO9141. That’s not something I’ve ever heard of heavy duty trucks so it’s Spanish to me .

Ya that’s what has me so confused ... mine doesn’t seem to have low power . It seems to act like a typical stock truck when it’s running. Also no smoke from tail pipe . That was one thing I looked for a lot in the beginning of this . Air in fuel will smoke a pump pretty quick . I wish the data link made more sense on these to me . I’m actually pretty decent with the j1939 can bus on heavy duty trucks .

No they don’t . At least not the times I pay attention to them . I do my testing on a 75mph farm road so I have minimal traffic and time to look at the scanner, fuel pressure gauge and dash gauges . Lol but i feel panicked when it happens to grab as much info as I can . When it’s dead but rolling in gear I had rpm still and oil pressure. I’ll test again ASAP and try to focus on all of it . But I agree, I know it’s not ever certain but I swear my pump can’t be bad . That’s why I finally asked here because I’m stuck between some expensive items or possibly a cheap wire fix . How does the CCD and PCM tie into the ECM ? I understand what they all do but I don’t see how for instance the PCM can wig out the ECM.

First time posting but I’ve reading and gaining from this site for quite some time . Thus the title of this post. I’m really struggling with my truck and I’ve read just as much as I possibly can. My background (just so no one is afraid to through anything complicated at me) is 10 years of diagnosing and repairing medium and heavy duty trucks and now about to reach my 5th year of being a shop manager. Sorry this might be long winded. My 99 is a fairly new purchase and it wasn’t acting up when I got but now it’s getting terrible. The two main issues are : when I first leave my house and start driving it will (only once or twice) loose power but it’s not the same dead pedal every one else describes. The truck doesn’t die and will rev up in response to throttle input. It’s just very low power and slow to respond. After it works that hiccup out I’m fine for a bit but eventually the truck does start dying . And yet again it’s nothing like I’ve read about. It’s a standard so with it still in gear and rolling down the highway, literally all I have to do is cycle the key and it’s rolling on full power like nothing happened. It has never not come back to life and when it happens somewhere where I do have to restart it, it fires instantly back up. Everything I’ve read says it dies completely or is incredibly difficult to restart . I’ve checked just about everything that I know of or have read about. I installed new batteries due to one of mine actually being bad. No change. Trying to be lazy and hoping it was something simple I changed the apps. No change. The truck has never had a CEL. I even forced a CEL to make sure that part was functioning. The wait to start light functions completely normal. Sorry I’m bouncing around I just wanna to give as much info as I can . Another thing is that while test driving it down the road to try and diagnose it with my scanner, as soon as the truck dies my scanner gets kicked out and says no communication. The scanner attempts to reconnect and if I cycle the key it reconnects and functions fine until the next time it dies. Also when running the scanner shows that the vp44 is claiming to only be getting 12.1-12.3 volts. I haven’t back probed it yet to test while running with a meter but I have unplugged the pump and checked the power and ground and it was within .01 of the batteries. Sorry I know that’s a lot and there’s still more that Ive done but I know there are some very expienced people on here and hoping someone can help. That’s why I joined this one. Definitely a lot more info and a lot less “how do I roll coal” nonsense.