army_greywolf

I had the exact same sound, cracking cylinder 5 killed the fuel knock completely. Changed the injectors, ended up replacing crossover tubes too because they too were slightly leaking, enough to give me an extra quart or so between oil changes which really means 2+ quarts with normal consumption.

Anyone have issues with this? I for the life of me cant seem to figure out how or where water could be getting inside the cable. It has been isopropyl dipped and dried, lubed with cable lube and yet it still freezes. It's not even that old, four or five years at most. I plow with this truck so moisture is definitely an issue getting into everything it shouldnt but I just can't find the source of water ingress. Anyone have this issue? Is there a better aftermarket cable to buy? A modification?

So an update. I elected to take the SACs out and have them serviced locally. None leaked but I was told one of them was popping at only 220bar. This has been fixed, they are back in with new copper washers and crossover tubes, smoke is gone, which is peace of mind.

Early this year we had two days of a -29F wakeup for me. Both times every truck and every piece of equipment was gelled. This was using costco top tier diesel who we found the source to be the tank farm in North Milwaukee. it does not get that cold here often but diesel 911 didn't work at all. Stanadyne did and so did simply staying home lol. I no longer use diesel 911 because it is a known factor in cp4 failures as well (I have 6.7 powerstrokes as well has older 24Vs).

The SACs perform fine on the road, they make power and don't smoke much thanks to the tune in the quad. I don't expect perfection but I have a good combo for fuel control and it gets plenty of air. Fuel mileage is a thought, I recently put this truck back into full time service after throwing the wallet at it from a few different angles and really should get something in return as a benefit. I'm also aware I need to make changes to the quad tune to go from sac to vco. I am leaning on getting VCOs and then having the SAC injectors gone through and put away for a rainy day.

I tow, and plow and sometimes the truck might idle for a few hours at a time while out on a job. I have DAP 7x.010 SAC injectors that at the time were new body injectors circa 2013 and they have over 200k. I pulled one for a pop test and it was dripping slowly when closed so it's time for a replacement, also the truck is showing tired injectors by idle hazingl more and more with time. I'm hoping to get some expert opinions on the matter to replace. I have a truck built to make power while towing.Quad v2, converter is a little looser stall than stock, I've gone down from a s364 to an s362 that behaves well. SOVP, the rest is pretty normal components. Given what I do with the truck, I hear VCO injectors might not last with long durations of load like towing interstate for hours and hours or idling for hours. If anyone has lifespan experience in a similar work load I'd like to hear about it as well. If @dieselautopower has an opinon on what I should run and what BAR pop pressure it should be for good towing and less idle haze I'm all ears and will hop on the website and buy them today.

It's got to be an assembly defect or seal defect of some kind. I ended up ordering a NOS mopar parts boxed unit on ebay, convinced him to ship it overnight to the detriment of my credit card and voila problem solved. Now just to replace all the transmission lines and maybe just maybe the leaks will stop.

Three cardone units later I'm asking if ANYONE has had good luck with a particular remanufactured hydroboost. I need one basically immediately. That said, I already tried rebuilding it just to find it had mechanically failed (scarring on parts I can't get). I even tried to rebuild the units that failed only to find they all suffered some sort of assembly error and needed hard parts I don't have. If anyone has had good luck, point me in the right direction. Thank you in advance. Oh and move this if needed, not sure if powertrain or not.

I'm making quite a bit of power so my rattle turned out to be the flex plate was broken. Something unique to cracked flex plates is the noise they make if you just barely bump the starter. It's kind of hard to explain but it sounds like a twing or a loud tang noise.

I spray used motor oil from the ford...all over the underside of it and people freak out on me...but nothing is even remotely corroded under there...the cummins is self applying lol.

My experience is if you have weight hanging off the front end, rough roads, uneven traction and so forth just make bump steer worse. To answer your questions: The transmission is already as stout as money and time can make it, no worries there. The use will be one large lot followed by a series of smaller lots with highway speed driving between them. Truck won't be carrying a salter, I bought a ford for that lol. It will however have a full complement of blowers, shovels, salt bins, spreaders, gas, crew etc. I would NEVER run a truck in 4low. You just cannot do that, it's a bad idea for a variety of reasons, most of which involves bind and potential energy of the weight of rotating parts behind the things you DONT want to break. Anyways, I was hoping someone here plows with these trucks and runs a different steering setup. It's the one thing I have always disliked about my cummins is the terrible steering despite steering boxes and braces. It eats track bars regularly so I actually NEED to upgrade it. I was planning to weld in a new mount on the axle to align it correctly with the steering drag link.

I have a 2001 2500 with roughly 345k, the cummins is well cared for but it requires a few things to address leaks. I'm going to explain what I'm doing and why and then ask for suggestions about other things to do/service before plowing season. This truck hasn't plowed in years but it will this year since the gas truck died once and for all (broken frame). Hydroboost rebuild, it leaks something terrible and I bought an all new seal kit to fix it. I also have a pressure line that seeps and is getting replaced. Front crank seal and sleeve, it leaks, it makes a mess while its running so its getting fixed. Turbocharger replacement. I have a large s364sxe on it now, its too big to plow with, it would just be a restriction. I'd like some opinions on a S362SXE with smaller injectors Taking out the dap 7x.011 injectors and going down to 7x.009 VCO this truck previously was just a weekend warrior truck does have a quad v2, I do know how to use it. So with that said, I'd like to get it back to a work friendly setup. I tow with the setup it has now but the quad spoon feeds the fuel with boost so it doesnt smoke too much. This is not a friendly setup for pushing snow. The truck already has an overbuilt transmissions, custom made triple disk and a host of cooling upgrades. It recently got a new manifold as well (cracks). I'm also looking to replace the front springs, shocks all the way around since its been a decade and 150k miles, truck has the 02 dana 70 srw rear end with discs. I'm considering 3rd gen track bar upgrade but need to know the best source for the bracket. I might do the 4th gen steering upgrade but I've heard it bump steers on some trucks, that would not be friendly with weight hanging on the front end. Everything else on the truck has had basically regular service or is in good shape. If you have anything to add that might make the season a bit more pain free with an old truck, let me know.

Yes and no. Stock, yes, its best at dropping the hot side temp coming out of the trans. In my application I removed the valve and the stock fittings for JIC to gray parker push loc+ fittings and hose. I'm thankful it does do some heating in the winter (I have the sonnax kit and park fluid flow mods) When I start it up before heading out to plow it will high idle and the trans temp generally matches the coolant temp until I get going, when it starts to come down again.

If it really concerns you, the cp4.1 in your VW is not likely to give you any issues at all. I'm an airdog fan, as everyone imho should be. It is simply a customer service issue for me, I don't give an honest rip how much it costs, or if it will last 10,000 hours or 20,000 hours. For me, I need to know if it doesn't last, will the company treat me with some kind of priority, airdog did, fass did not. That is about all to take away from that.

I have the new titanium signature series pump, or had more accurately. The stock lift pump died on my 185k 2012 6.7 powerstroke, installed this, set the pressure and off to the races right? Wrong. Microbubbles and cavitation still an issue, had a few low fuel pressure messages, no real reason for it besides cavitation we discovered when we put a clear line in there to watch. Back and forth with their customer service and they decided to send me another pump. This was November 2018, in January it died while plowing, I thought the CP4 died (common issue on the newer powerstrokes). We trailered it back to the shop and discovered the pump wasnt running with power applied. Second time with problems and FASS wasn't having it, 3 days of emailing and two phone calls resulted in I calling the company I bought it from and they accepted a return for refund. I'm now back to a stock lift pump which on Fords is more than enough, it was after all just the fastest way I could get the truck back on the road to begin with. There is a earlier story to my FASS experience with our 24v vp truck. When I bought it, the truck had a fass on it of unknown age. I had cavitation issues with it from day one, and it was INCREDIBLY noisy, we tried rubber frame shims, bigger filters, all kinds of things. I traded it straight out for a airdog raptor 150 since I had a couple cases of normal fuel filters I didn't want to waste. The airdog was used itself and it lasted from 2015 to Monday. Airdog without receipt of anything other than a short video on the screeching noise it was making, they fired off another pump in the mail for me. I will have it in my hands today and that should be everything you need to know about FASS. I will state that both trucks are plow and work truck, both see some but not an unusual amount of idle time and both get filters changed before service schedule. To me, workmanship and quality are number one to the buyer, but customer service is number one when that workmanship and quality fails you. My trucks might as well be employees, and having them operational is critical to the making of money. FASS failed at timely service, and honestly pretty much everything else. Most trucks are tolerant of some air in the supply, but not the 6.7 powerstroke apparently. Heck of a first post I suppose, but I've lurked for years lol.