rickf

Not for a 2wd 4wheel abs truck.

I have a broken front abs sensor on my 2wd 3500 dually. They are no longer made and if you can even find one it seems to be made of gold and has no guarantee. Does anybody know of a reputable supplier?

A one ince drive torque wrench! I didn't even have one of them whne I was doing construction equipment work. I always used multipliers or 3/4 drive and doublers. I did have one drive sockets and ratchet though, of coarse back then I could lift it.

That is a good write up but I am not a fan of impacts on differentials. You are hammering the pinion against the ring and both are hardend gears. I have seen many broken gear sets because of that. I will expend the extra energy to save a grand on a new gear set and the neccesary set up.

Can someone tell me what size socket the pinion nut is on a 98.5 Dana 80 is? I have tried a 1 13/16 and it is a hair small and a 1 7/8 will not fit inside the yoke without grinding the outside of the socket. I am thinking it is metric? Maybe 47mm? Odd size not in most sets. Rick

OK, I am back on this since I have had to use the truck in the snow and it would be nice to have the ABS. I think I can eliminate the wheel sensors because they are two wire sensors which means they generate a signal so they are doing nothing at rest. I am getting the lights on and off while sitting at idle. I have unplugged every plug related to the brakes and also the main harness plug, all are clean. Any ideas? I am on a very limited income and headed towards disability soon so I cannot afford to give a dealer a couple hundred dollars just to hook up a scanner.

What do you want pictures of? I can get some shots of the brake lines coming out of the ABS unit or maybe the sensor wires on the front wheels. I am not going to pull the wheels just to get pictures of the sensors. Actually I still have the window sticker, I will see if it is listed there.

I have 4 wheel ABS on mine. 1998.5

I have not had time to do anything with this but I have been watching far any kind of pattern. This afternoon I started it up and was sitting there contemplating a deer in the yard and noticed the ABS and brake lights would come on for about a minute and then turn off, usually the brake light first followed a few seconds later by the ABS light. Then in a minute or so they would come back on. I watched this happen for roughly ten minutes, on and off. I then drove off and the pattern continued but the lights were seperated for a while with the ABS light coming on for 10 seconds before the brake light and sometimes even alternating. I unplugged the harnesses from the ABS unit and all that comes on then is the ABS light with no brake light. There is no fluid level sensor on the master cylinder. Still looking for ideas, especially since I saw the price of the front sensors. I don't want to replace parts that are not needed.

No ABS? You would have to have front sensors for either 4 wheel or rear wheel ABS.I just priced those sensors on Rock Auto, OUCH!! 130.00!

Thanks Mike, so you are saying I have to replace both fronts or none due to compatibility issues? Can the abs lock out one front wheel alone? If so that would indicate the right side is the bad one due to the issue I mentioned earlier.

Seth, I would normally agree with you on the rear4 sensor but I am having no problems with my speedometer. About a year ago I had to replace the transmission output speed sensor but those symptoms were bad shifting with no codes. I had a rather interesting experience the other day that makes me think front sensor or even the ABS unit itself. I came out of the store and got in the truck and turned the key on, I usually wait for all of the noises to end before starting. One of those normal noises is the ABS unit which gives a "CHUNG" and then the brake and abs lights go out. This time the noise was delayed. When I was driving out of the parking lot I hit the brakes and something just did not feel right but I was going very slow so I could not pin it down. I pulled out on the highway and came up to a red light and hit the brakes and NOTHING!!!!! It was like stepping on a rock, the pedal did not move. I pushed hard and the abs came on and it jerked HARD left and then stopped straight. It has not done that again but I have noticed that at key on when I hear the abs right away the lights do not come on but if it is delayed they are on at startup. When driving they go on and off sometime and others they stay on for hours or off for hours. During the on times the brakes feel normal. Being a longtime mechanic I do not want to throw parts at it till the problem goes away, I want to identify the problem and fix that. Hopefully the added info will be something that someone has run across.Rick

I am getting my brake and ABS lights on intermittently. They come on for a while and go of. I am thinking wheel speed sensor but sometimes the lights come on at startup. This would indicate a hard code and usually an ABS unit problem. My Snap-On brick will not read the ABS codes from the ALDL connector. Any thoughts?

I think this is what you are looking for. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/37-apps-sensor-voltage-adjustment

A little history on the truck might help us determine your issues. Were the pumps put on by you? What is your fuel pressure? What codes do you have? How long have you had this problem/ How did you go about resetting the APPS? We can't help you without some further information. Rick

Thanks, I will check tomorrow. I have no intention of changing since it pulls like a train now.

What is the best way to tell what turbo you have stock? I was told mine should be a HX35 from the factory. 98.5 with automatic. What are the identifying marks on the unit?

The APPS works by resistance, in other words the computer reads the amount of voltage drop coming from the APPS. If for some reason the A/C is causing even more of a drop in that line then it will be read be the computer as a lower throttle input than actually exists. Basically the same as a boost fooler. I am not sure if the APPS and A/C wiring are in the same harness but look for a short or open ground in the harness's. Unplug the A/C clutch at the unit and turn it on and see if you have the same symptoms without the A/C unit itself on but the wiring energized. If you do then pull the A/C fuse and try it then with the A/C switch on and off. Basically you are trying to narrow it down to a subsystem and then to a wire.If unplugging the compressor fixes it you may have a bad clutch that is drawing a lot of power.

I have that diagram but I am looking for the one with the resistor to prevent the check engine light, or just the values for the resistor. Hex0rz, I am in need of the down pipe from the turbo outlet which in this case is the Banks Brake and is a 4" flange joint.

I have searched the forums til I am blue in the fingers and I cannot find a diagram for the lock out switch. I know I am terrible at finding the right search terms but man! I thought I saw diagram a while ago with the switch and the included resister? I am not an electronics person, I know it is a 33 ohm resistor but what about the rest of the values? volts? watts? And would you know where I can find a flared section of pipe for the 4" outlet on a Banks brake? Or some other way of adapting the pipe to it? Rick - - - Updated - - - OK, Let me rephrase this. I am looking for the diagram for the manual lock up switch. My original post may have been confusing. I know some of you have this. he pipe would be a bonus but if I do not find one by this weekend I will make one.

I had a leak past a boot even though the clamp was tight. The boot had degraded inside and the air was escaping between the metal elbow and the hose on the passenger side below the battery. Temporary solution to get to where I was going was to loosen both clamps and rotate the hose 180 degrees and tighten the clamps back up. Now I have boost again. That was a hard one to catch!

I bought a Banks brake used and I need a flanged down pipe. I already have 4" exhaust but it is necked down to match the stock turbo outlet. The Banks brake has a 4" outlet, flanged. They want over 200.00 for the down pipe alone!!!

I had the same issue with the spring, they sent out a bad batch and did not tell the distributors about it. Geno's will send you a new spring. I got the new spring and now have 23# at idle.

Link to new cleaning method?

Put the additive in, Chances are good you will get a hell of a chatter without it. You may not get it right away if the oil previously in it had the additive but as the new oil washes the additive off of the clutch plates you will feel it. And that is not really good for the clutches. Putting the additive in is just cheap insurance, it will not hurt anything by adding it.