Scottyv

Most around here state up to 20% and not less then 5% Wow, that explains a lot of my engine loudness. [PDF]Minnesota B20 Handling Guide https://www.mda.state.mn.us Beginning May 1, 2018, Minnesota law requires that diesel fuel sold in Minnesota contain 20 percent biodiesel (B20) during warmer months, reverting back to five percent for the colder months. Bio-diesel is a clean-burning alternative fuel made from domestic, renewable sources Ahhh I see, its 5% in winter. So is the Bio fuel more prone to gelling?

I wonder if being from Minnesota makes a difference, I get a fair amount of fuel knock when running #2 or any non white bottle fuel in my truck in then the Minnesota cold. 148k on the original injectors could be part of it. Oct 30 means 20 deg or colder start ups, and when-it drops to bellow -0 deg its loud. The Truck needs a plug in and good working grid heater. (otherwise it complains.) It will still start but it makes me nervous to hear it run that cold. I could be under the placebo effect of the fuel additive, but I hear it calm down when at least putting in a little "anti hell"

this was helpful, it for the Chrysler A-833 but its the point that counts. Here's the full link. https://books.google.com/books?id=ZwJbDwAAQBAJ&pg=PA19&lpg=PA19&dq=main-shaft+to+moving+forward+and+backwards+enough+to+pop+the+shift+ring+out+of+gear&source=bl&ots=j85QltodQE&sig=ACfU3U37_3qvlbnTPQv6QyrWpi0uvZr2xw&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwicg5qMl7DlAhVBIqwKHcxjAWYQ6AEwAHoECAkQAQ#v=onepage&q=main-shaft to moving forward and backwards enough to pop the shift ring out of gear&f=false

Which bearing is it?

Which bring the question, whats causing it? and would they have rebuilt it with a old or bad bearing? hmmmmm... I know they will reuse parts that fall into spec, but I really think the bearings should have been new.

OK, an up date: Had it in to the Guys at Midwest, like i said, and they did not drop it and see what was up. with in a week and about 200 mile its now shuttering in 3rd gear on deceleration. also when grabbing onto the shifter in prep to shift from third, it will come out of gear upon deceleration, before engaging the clutch ( at all speeds and rpm's, for the third gear) It just pops right out with no engagement of the clutch. I know you can time the rpm's and deceleration to shift with out engaging the clutch but this will do it with no effort, you only have to let up on the accelerator. I called Thomas Crawford in WY, and he called Scott at Midwest Trans. (Both are nice guys, so I'm not complaining) Its just no fun to re-do work for anyone. Well, I got a call from Scott at Midwest and he agree to take out the trans in a few weeks, when his shop slows down. I'm good with that, as I have customers to take care of, and i need the truck to do that. I'll let you know what comes next. (Phantom, Clutch or Transmission.)

Humm thats what I thought.No real gap there to peek in and see. Thinking the first clutch plate had room but then why would it? Yup I hate to think I have to drop it just to find out . But ...

I would agree with the bleeding of the preblead units based on my same experience. Could it be done buy just dropping the slave and leaving the master in place? seem that would work. The wobble vibration in fourth gear seems to be a different issue. Seems the shifter socket is engage directly into the fourth gear shaft. this make me think its the pilot bearing. Any chance anu scope could be placed into the inspection hole and this could be seen?

Man that sounds so frustrating. I was told by Landon at SB once the slave is out you should have no more then 7/8" from the housing edge to the fork. But it is kinda hard to be exact. Im gonna do this test just because the tabs didn't break of the white retainer ... after the initial install by the Tech. But as I said before Im thinking its the Pilot bearing because of the wobbly vibrations on the shift when decelerating in fourth gear from around 40mph to 25 mph. How-ever wouldn't it vibrate in all gears and not just fourth? Also , If this is what it is. I wondering if the inspection hole on the back of the bell housing passenger side, might be a way I could get a look at it. But i'm not sure. Probably I'll have to pay to have it dropped, and them take a look.

Hmm You can call and ask for Landon at SB, he was who I spoke with, I've also read several thread where guys mentioned a Peter. But That's where I'm headed next, as far as who to call. I guess I'll be able to have the transmission and drive line kinda ruled out. So I'm thinking that SB will have to think out what they can do, Probably I'll work on them setting up a shop they use here to take it out. If it turns out to be a bad install I'll be surprised. But then it'll go on Thomas Crawford's dime. If it's a bad clutch then South Bend's dime. Midwest has all but promised its not their transmission, that causing the issue. (But It still could be that someone did't shim the input shaft or a bad internal part.) Just have to keep pursuing it. Other wise I'll have no confidence in it and be stuck on some High desert road again. your sound like the fork was put in wrong or the through-out bearing is not doing its job. I think mine is the pilot bearing? Definitely make-them-fix-it , and if you give them opportunity to do it and they wont, then it's time for Court. Just keep records on your progress and writ it down. the judge wont want to read a lot. So, if you bullet point it and then give the details for back records he'll be prone to side with you and get you some justice.

Yep, I was stuck at the mercy of who was able to get it done and get me and my family back to Minnesota. "Thomas Crawford Auto" repair in Casper Wyoming, Is who did the work, But Landon at south bend , and Tim, Bud, and Scott at Midwest are the product warrentors, So I'v got three entities to work with. Thomas would definitely have it back in his lot if it was close. However I would think between the three of them they would coordinate a fix. I'll have to see if I can get them to do that, Next. I will say that no one has been rude or obnoxious. But I just have yet to see a good solution here. really disappointing so far. I'll stay positive for now. If it breaks then I guess they have a repair anyways. Who did the clutch install, on yours?

Yup I heard these clutches are a little hit and miss. , If I cant get it fixed I will launch a bad review campaign and get my experiences out there. it already cost me on week with out my work truck and to jobs rescheduled. I have been reasonable and fair, and paid my bill in full have been promised a good warranty and a quality job. ( I'm fairly good at visits to all the important places to post reviews.) I can also create my own web page just to tell my story with pictures of the entire process and parts.

Ill probably have to post some very bad reviews. I'll be talking to a few folks at South Bend, and calling the installer. But taking it back to "Casper Wyoming" is not and option. I've got 1 year or 12k to get it sorted out that the warranty. If I have to pay to get it right I'll have to file a small claims against the parties, and see what the judge thinks. But for now I'll drive it like it is. Surprisingly Scott at Midwest said they would want about $800 to take it out and see if its the clutch. (I'm not sure why when the install charge less then that to put in the trans.) but I'll probably have to do it my self and than, get the parts swapped out for free. Let a job go to others who don't really have a good sense of quality, and it'll get mucked up every-time. The word professional is just not really complete with out integrity. And taking responsibility for your job and any re-work is what that integrity stands for I'm just \ unimpressed so far, seems guys build up a business and then forget all the good people who got them where they are and then just let people down.

Humm, how long ago was the install?

Ok, Not so new, good but still worth looking into. Update: Took the truck into Midwest transmission in Zumbrota Mn. This is where the trans was rebuilt. When I dropped it off on Monday tim handed me off to Bud in the shop, After a test drive Bud mentioned that they would probably take out the trans and look at things. However, over the week Tim, Bud, and Scott all took turns? driving it a bit and looking at it, not sure how well, but they decided to let it go for now. We did have them change out trans mount, and the center carrier support bearing and drive shaft balanced since that would mke it match their work skill, and not mine. (so that rule out the obvious.) So, still no change, fourth gear shutters when in the deceleration comes on, between 40 mph down to 25 mph, driving it . Seems like Scott (the owner in part ), decided not to take out the trans for now. He feels it has more to do with the Clutch, but since he has high confidence in the SBDD 3250 and the fact that every thing was changed out down to the fly wheel and pilot bearing when put in in Wyoming. He feels it could be some chatter from the clutch on the input shaft, because while its shuttering in fourth it stops once the clutch pedal is pressed down. Meaning no shutter when the clutch is disengaged. Obviously, I was hoping , they would have dropped the trans and taken a look but (they didn't want to put the 7 hours in to it,) as the problem seems to be the South bend or installers problem, and they didn't install the trans or clutch. they are just the re-builder. I do understand that. Still, it would have been a nice thing to do. But what can i say. I have a business and I do that sort of thing for my customers, but I guess I need to to keep them. Scott said , Im gonna have to wait until its get better or worse. But since it did this from the start its tough to get some one here to take a look at whats going on inside the bell housing. " Moparman's" post on the pilot bearing falling out on to the input shaft seems likely, But Midwest did not want to check that out, hinting that that would be the installing shops responsibility and South bends product portion of the job.. Midwest also owns a drive line shop in Maple Grove Mn that did the drive shaft work for me. My concern is that eventually problem will take out the input shafts bearing, and ruin the transmission.but I'm kinda stuck. So as is goes for now i'll be watching it. I have now spent 5k into a trans and clutch and not having confidence in the products so as installed so far. The shutter comes on when in fourth gear deceleration but stops when the clutch is depressed, and that is not normal to any one I've spoken to. . .

OK, Checked for venting of trans fluid from 6qt fill. no venting no mess and no drips. normal driving , no steep grades since fill so I will keep an eye on it will be towing this weekend. Also I'll be eliminating the carrier bearing and trans mount this weekend, by replacing them i will be trouble shooting before I have Midwest take out the trans and inspect it. However I think that will still happen. Its just not safe to get stuck in an intersection while gear searching, . Original Carrie bearing is still in there and rubber looks good but, it doesn't mean the bearing is not dragging . There is a soft mid-ranges howl at certain speeds and slow down. Also I can get the drive train to jump just slightly when backing up hill with heavy load in truck , so checking the motor mount/ trans mount. Ill drop it out , and if its torn or week I'll swap it out too.

The throw-out does, when installed, it usually comes pre-lubed, it has a grove in the race to keep the grease in there, but it best to grease it well. Doesn't seem to be my problem. well see though. Mopar1973man my be on to the cause . Ok I'll have to check that tonight. Don't need a mess, Humm That is interesting. Did it stop when you Dis-engaged the clutch? When I push the pedal down and dis-engage the clutch the vibrations stop. This only happens during deceleration in fourth gear and just from 40 mph down to 25 mph. I do not normally let fourth go so low but as a test this is what i have been able to find. My fifth ,1, 2, are good in both acceleration and deceleration's. I can think I feel a very slight vibration in 3rd, but Its not like fourth.

Yes, When the trans broke, the wife said "well that's good since now you'll have to have it fixed and you are so far from home it'll be nice not to have to do it your self". . . .Now, I said, you see why I don't.let other people work on my truck. Thing is it'll break mid-winter -20, and I'll be in the drive way under my truck, . . blessing my truck. But , The wife will be in the house, nice and warm. I really don't want that. . .

Yesh... That's not good. I may have similar issues. I'm guessing the imbalance comes from a poorly build trans, a bearing or old gear was not within the tolerance. but if its the clutch i'll be because the disks just aren't flat and balanced enough for the spin and torque. I'm thinking that when the reverse torque of the deceleration starts its jiggling while the springs are under stress and grabbing and letting go, to let torque decrees against the center plate, may slip a little as designed, but then it should grab and hold. This is to do what they are meant to do when slipping. But if they are not slipping and then grabbing, you might feel a wobbly jiggly vibration as the clutch bounces across the center plate letting go over and over upon deceleration. That'll were things out fast and be come hard on the transmission bearing and gears. This may be because SB is working on the street version while selling them to us. A clutch that slips and then grabs may be had to balance. when making it a street daily driving clutch. I'm becoming an educated novice but i wish it just worked as promised. If the slippage makes it a "street version" then the vibration happens when slipping is weakest in their design, with reverse torque. There may be something to this because their new clutch break-in-booklet says not to down shift with the DD. But that is just not gonna work. We drive these truck and use the downshifts to engine break a bit when slowing the truck down with the breaks. Also we have steep grades with loads, we need to be helped by down shifting. if the engine can handle forward torque it can handle reverse torque. So , then should the clutch be able to "Handel it". Other clutches handle it just fine. My original one was still good and grabbed fine. After 148k miles. Just a LUK original equipment clutch. . SB may have not made this right yet. I'm hoping that they have. but if I find that they haven't, I post it every where so others and avoid this product. It's the 3250 5k SBDD street I have a 2500 clutch with install and it should work not only well but great. and is works poorly. Its noisy when depressed,it vibrates in deceleration's in fourth gear, and it dose not let me in gear every time. Also, I watched a install video for perfection clutches, and the tech says if the through ut is sticky or bad, or if the fork is in the wrong it will hang up and not fully engage the clutch. have you tried jacking it up and putting it in reverse with the clutch disengaged. if it rolls when the clutch is dis-engaging fully to the floor then there is a problem with the clutched toughing the center plate or back plate. this might mean it wasn't install correctly. Once you under stand the simplicity of a clutch you can see how , if its not working then something was not done correctly. That's why SB can say if it worked from the beginning then its probably not the clutch. However they have a lot of things going together in the DD clutch. So I don't agree with that simple cover statement. Don't get me wrong I want it to work. and they seem like a great company. But it must work as promised. let me know what happens

Ok Long story short, is still very long: I had my NV4500 transmission go down a few weeks back, in Casper WY. took is to Thomas Crawford auto repair. I had a very good experience . But now I've got issues. History: Took about week to get one sent to the shop in Wy, from Midwest transmission in zumbrota MN which isn't far from where I live. The repair shop and I decided to upgrade to the 1 3/8th input shaft,plus all the other updates that Midwest Transmission and gear, does to these trans when rebuilding them. For the clutch, I opted for the SBDD and new hydrolics. Hoped this would work better with my towing needs. Finally , The installer put 4 qts of BG Ultra-Guard® Full Synthetic Gear Lubricant 75w-90 (sad that he charge me for 8 qts ) Developments: From the start , the transmission/ clutch acted up. The Hydraulics did not break the white tabs off the cap assembly and I noticed the tabs jutting back out when the clutch was released. The Tech said they stretched. so we removed the white cap and tabs, and inserted the hyds push rod in, and re-bolted it to the trans bell housing. Also, the truck shifted hard and notchy. and I was forced to coast . . . through several intersections while hoping I could grab a gear before I was hit. Very frustrating. Other frustrating issues and lots of noise when clutch was disengaged. (was told it was normal) Otherwise the clutch grabbed good, and did not slip on any pulls or steep hills coming home. But the intersection thing was happening to many times to be safe. Also a noticeable from the start, which i told the shop owner, And had him test drive with me. Was,.. THE HAND JIGGLING VIBRATIONS on the shifter when lightly resting my hand to check for gear roll-over vibrations while rolling. But when deceleration or letting up on the throttle in 4th around 35 mph down to 25 mph. there is vibration jiggling the shifter , this happens most noticeably when downshifting with a load or on a downgrade (hill) I also get a slight tilting of the shifter forward and backward when accelerating slighting and decelerating . But only in third and fourth. which share the same Shift rial. All this is being done with gentle speeds and easy clutch releases. ((SHOP GUY SAID IT WAS a "NORMAL SBDD CLUTCH BINDING GRABBING STUFF" cause of the middle pressure plate floating in there??) 1300 miles later the trans still shift notchy and sometimes will not go into 1st third , or reverse. Not being unaware of the GL5 type fluids, I looked into the BG Ultra-Guard® Full Synthetic Gear Lubricant product the shop put in the trans. and it was not a good choice because it is a GL5 . I then changed it to Amsoil MTG. A Gl4 and Midwest trans recommended fluid. I filled it with 6 qts. ( yes 6 qts, and no, I don't agree about heat retention in the oil with six quarts. when top loading this trans I could barely see where six qts was coming up to the gears. However 5 qts is commonly recommended. I may drop a quart if the temps look high. (Three and 3/4th quarts to the hole is not enough. and that is well establish as a failure point in these transmissions. "Notchy shifting Update": today In the shifty notchy progress, two days later 125 miles, I did notice a bit better shifting but it will will argue 1st and reverse when stopped on a hill. Rolling is the only trick. (not impressed) but better. Note: the BG oil i removed, was fairly dark after 1300 miles and looked contaminated with graphite. but it was still transparent enough to look like dark honey when coming out of the drain hole. Not a good sign. Lastly when taking the shifter cover off the shifter mount, on top the transmission, I noticed the graphite residue on the back side of the shifter plastic housing and the shifter main rod that goes into the trans to move the shift fork. (Seems like something is making deposits in the oil and on the metal, inside the Transmission.) The most concerning issue, to me was the Long crack looking "scratch" on the center 3rd and 4th gear shift rail. it looked cracked up past the housing. Time to call Tim at Midwest: I called Tim, and update him on what i've found. and sent him pictures. When he responded today, he said it was a scratch according to the tech who assembled the transmission.( Kinda didn't like that the tech remembered he put in, a possibly sub standard part, when rebuilding that transmission.) Tim at midwest who has been apprised of the entire history of this project since its purchase. said to bring it in next week. (a 60 mile track ). But he said they will drop the transmission and take a look at things. Just to let you know this weekend I'm changing the carrier bearing, which shows no wear, and the trans mount just to eliminate those two things from the possible cause of the vibration and giggling in the fourth gear. Also the vibration stops when disengaging the clutch, but comes right back when engaging it again. I haven't heard of others who have had this issue . But if you have a SBDD and any of this is normal let me know please I'll let you know what else happens next week. It may take me longer with work , but Ill post what happens. any insight is appreciated. thanks Guys

My wife who knows infinitely more than I do about running a family, wouldn't approve of a $700 tuner. Unless. . . I could convince her it was going to make me a lot more money by having one. But since I would probably try to go fast in my slow truck I dont think ill get her blessing. Hee heee

Is that with the Quad XZT ?

yeah, looking into something to work best with my set up. thanks

Agreed, for the same reasons. My list is similar. Got me to work today and will get me to play this weekend. " A working man can survive" I'm running a very small tire, because the dully s, have not worn out ( hardly) over the past 5 years,( 4 are better then two) so,... I've changed fronts twice. I been running (DISCOVERER HT3 - SIZE: LT225/75R16 ) because they came with the truck . PO was running horses with this truck with a goose, and the rears were replace when I bought it. He like the extra tour q. so Ill be running these until next year. After I get the rest of my HP build sorted out I'll look into a set of DISCOVERER HT3 235 85r 16s which will drop my revolution by 52.98 per mile = 8.3%. Should be close to what I want. 3.65:1 +- Also_ Today I tried shifting where you do, and it was OK . I usually use my MPGs to help guide me on what the truck likes. Mine gets better MPGs with Higher shift RPMs and higher cruising rpm's. When I first git it it I kept the r's low. in-town was 16. hwy 19_ but found by keeping my over all RPM's a bit higher I shot up to 18 in-town. & 21 on the hwy with out trying. Now, with the new SBDD I've been more careful to wait out the disks for the sake of the synchronous gems. But im one of those guys who would rather listen to my engine then the radio.

I'm A Little under the curve when it comes to tunners. Could you message me as I'm new and not sure yet how to do that. Either way I would be interested in the Quad if its a good match for my plans. thanks Don't get me wrong about the 1999 -02 Vp44 5.9 truck. It will pull nicely on the low grades up to 5% and average short steeper pulls. I can maintain 65 to 70 running 25 to 27 rpms. Been told these truck are made to run around 2500 rpms all day. But, You really do need to hit long pulls on the I90 or other interstates at around 60+ best to get into the hill around 65+. By the top I'm still pulling 55 in fifth. But it like running a 4 banger with 75 hp from the 70's. You can just feel that there is not much left in there. And from a dead stop going directly into a hard pull you've got to move over and hope to get it up to 45, be for the Egts get ya. Thanks for all the awesome advice gentlemen