FiveNine

I am kinda new around here, but I have 2nd gen that is bleeding me dry... and I love it!

If you dont mind me asking, what did it cost to change the fittings? Kinda crappy I have to spend money on this...

Just for the sake of trying, I took the fuel cap off and drove up the road, same results.

anyway to verify that is the issue? If that is an issue, I can just change out the fittings coming from the tank to the LP correct? It wouldnt suck air being pos pressure from the LP to the IP would it?

Thanks Mopar! I did watch your video, and thats kinda why I am here. I figured something was wrong... I am running the Isspro gauge you linked in the post with this video. I bought th napa valve pn 6820, and also the air line you used. I would assume that there would be something in the tank, maybe the pickup tube? I helped a buddy install a 150 a wile back and his had a draw straw. Mine modified the sump. There was 2 screens, an inner and outer. the inner screen was removed so the new draw tube could pretty much sit right next to the outer screen. there is little bracket it fit into that spaced it from the screen if I remember right....

No, the canister is long gone. where is the screen at? No filter infront of my AD. The filter is built into the base.

Makes since to me, So I should be able to leave the cap loose or off and take it for a test drive and that should tell me instantly if that was my issue.

Hmmm I have noticed a hissing sound at the pump when taking the cap off. Can you explain why that will cause what o am seeing?

The AirDog 165 does not use a draw straw like the 150. You modify the sump that is in the tank. I followed the directions to the T. The way the tube pulls gueo threw the sump it cant sit right on the bottom.

The AD system is 3 months old, how could anything be clogged? I just got the gauge hooked up yesterday, so i don't know how long this has been going on.

Details on truck in question are in my sig. Video starts from 25mph up to about 70mph. WOT the whole way, and let off right at 3,000rpm... Seems like a big drop for an AD165 on a stock truck.... Cruising around town, and on the highway it holds 15-17psi

Just wanted to Bump this thread with an update. I went with the above mentioned ebay transmission. However, I looked him up and found his website. He is local to me, and I worked out a cash deal. I have about 1,500 miles on it and it is GREAT! I pull my Toyota 600 miles, part of it threw the mtns, and it did great. Perforance Innovations

I have my transmission out and will be turning it in as a core on a reubuilt transmission. I want to make sure the lines are clean when the new transmission goes in. What is the best way to do this? AutoZone has this, Has anyone used it before? Before the transmission came out, I flushed more than 20 quarts of fluid through the transmission. What a fiasco that was.... Anyway, when I drained the fluid to remove the transmission, the fluid was a nice clean, high dollar red. I only managed to put 30-40 miles on the fluid. Do you think the lines are ok? Could I install the transmission, fill it with fluid and leave the return line off and use the transmission to pump the lines clean? You guys have been helpful so far, and I want to thank you!

Over spent my budget, but I think I have a transmission that will be be perfect for me. I contacted the seller in the link above, had a good talk with him and we are going to do business. Cryo-Hardened input, Billet Single disc converter and the rest of the goodies. I am doing Local pick up, and he cut me a better deal than what on his site. No its not a full build, but for my needs, It'll do pig.. It'll do!

HHHMMMMMMM

I will get a hold of Revmax and see if they do stock builds and see if they can add in a TC and VB, but I doubt it. I called them when I 1st had issues and they said I would need a whole transmission and the built unit they sell starts at 4k. I dont have 4k to spend on it right now, and wont for sometime. I would rather just put a stock transmission in now, so that way I can get rolling again. Edit** Revmax does not do stock rebuilds, only built units.

oh, ok I miss understood. I would be happy if I was back up and running for less than $1500 Later I may step up to a good single disc TC and a VB. Revmax is 3 hrs from me. I would probably go with some of there stuff. side note- you would upgrade the output shaft(s?) before the input? or was 900 for both?

I dont want to do it myself. Its worth it to me to have someone else do the work. I am ok at part swapping, but when it comes to going in and doing fine detail work, I would rather someone who knows what there doing to do it. Thats a big, heavy transmission to drop down and it would suck really bad to have to pull it all back apart because a snap ring went in wrong, or check ball went missing.

They wont quote a price with out looking at it. Im going to get it up there next weekend and let them look it over. Its a free inspection, at that point I assume they will give me a price. I forgot to ask about the warranty. There is one, I just dont know how long it is. When I asked about bringing parts I was told that they dont use customer parts b/c of their warranty.

I am in the need to have a transmission built for my truck (in sig). I would LOVE a fully built unit, but at this point in life funds just arnt there for a fully built monster. I have been looking around and a friend told me about Cottman Transmissions. The company he works for has had them put together some trannys for there work trucks before and they have had good luck. I am wondering if anyone on here has used them, or knows anything about them. I asked IF I could supply the TQ converter and VB but they said they wont install customer parts. They use Trans star and Whit (?) products. Has anyone heard of them? I would like to atleast get a decent single disc conveter, and VB in it.I plan on leaving my truck like it is, stock. Once the warranty runs out on the trans, or I feel the need to upgrade, I will have a good solid base to upgrade the VB, and TQ converter.I use the truck to pull about 6-8,000lbs a few times a year. It wont see any heavy towing. What thoughts/concerns should I be thinking of? I am pretty new to all this, and im trying to make the best choice for my current needs.

I dumped 20+ quarts of ATF threw the trans trying to get it as clean as I could. (The last 10 was not planned, I left a hose clamp loose and it pumped it out for me. ) I spent most of the day baking in the sun, covered in ATF, fumbling with sun heat soaked parts. I followed the TransGo directions to the T. I drilled the larger holes where I had to drill for more pressure in hopes it would help my well worn clutches hold. I found a broken spring inside the valve body. It was behind a small piston behind a plate that faces down that hold the harness up. I dont know what it does, and at this point dont really care. The whole process was not hard, just took forever. Going back together the only thing I wonder about was the rod that the E-clip goes too. It just kinda flopped out and I could really figure out what it was suppose to push against. I put it back just like I found it when I dropped the VB. Once the VB was in I added fluid wile the truck idled in neutral. Dropped it into D and pulled forward. I could tell right then it was not going to work. It pulled forward but not like I remember it. It bumped like it was ready to go, but as soon as I touched the throttle, it told me all I needed to know. It pulled forward, but not with out throttle. Before, right when I got the truck, you drop into gear and you had to be on the brake, or you where going forward. Now it just hangs out. 1100rpm~ it just creeps forward, 2000rpm~ it moves "some" but where it should be really moving, its hardly moving itself on flat ground. It mostly would make it over a 2x4. Reverse feel a little better. At least it responds with throttle. In D @ 3200 rpm it moves forward enough to out run a 90 year old woman with a walker. Manually shifting is the same story. I honestly think I goofed somewhere on the VB install. Before I dropped the VB, I could drive it threw the gears, just didnt have TC lock up. (That was after the 1st fluid flush and filter.) Even then though, It was not "right". Just good enough to drive. I bought this truck to be a tow rig for my Toyota, so I could take in rock crawling. I used my Toyota to tow the truck back down the driveway after the failed "test drive". I do love irony. At this point I am finished with this transmission, I gambles a few bills and lost out. I dont plan on sinking one more cent in it. I find it odd though that the CEL is not on. The light works when you 1st turn the key. Hope this answers your question Pepsi, or at lest give you an idea on what its doing... or should I say not doing.

Update:Im saving for a Transmission. Ill leave it at that. Thanks for the help, advice, and words of wisdom.Should've help out for the manual

Went to Lowe's and picked up everything I needed. I spent less than $7 on everything. :thumb1:Thanks to Moparman for putting this together.

You are correct. I checked the resistance in the solenoid back is December before I left. The ohm value fell right in spec. In the 6 months since then the truck has just sat. i will double check it again though.

I tested the electrical circuit back in December. I have a tcc switch hooked up now too, but it doesn't work. I think its in the tranny.