FiveNine

Interesting. Those are good numbers. I would be very happy with that. It still blows my mind that something as simple and a computer chip can make such a HUGE difference. I was on the road the other day and a car was running 15 under the speed limit. So I passed them. Out of habit, I layed into the throttle with the mind set, Im in a 7000lb truck with 215hp. It jumped out and blew by that car. I kinda felt bad because with my windows up and radio on I could clearly hear the engine screaming threw the 5" pipe and echoing off their car..

I got the Juice put in saturday and WOW... thats all I can really say. I was kinda surprised that it didnt smoke more on level's 5 and 6. Dont get me wrong, Im not looking for coal, but just from reading what others post and watching video's I was thinking I would end up with a freight train. Seems like on level 5 and 6 anything below 10psi and it comes rollin out, but once the boost makes it past 10psi it clears up really good. On the 1st run with no back downs set it would peg my boost gauge in just a few seconds. (40psi) and on level 6 it would be 13-1400* really quick. I set some of the back downs and its alot better. On level 5 EGT would top out about 1200-1250* I cant believe how easy it was to change my truck. I mean I have read about but gez! :stuned:Now for a question:I have an IssPro EGT gauge already, can I use the IssPro probe for both the Edge and IssPro Gauge? I have read a few threads and it seems like some say yes, and some say no. Any of you guys know?

Cool thanks! I still think 350hp/750tq might be pretty realistic. Mike put down 380hp/800+tq with RVs and edge. besides my truck is an auto and a dually, our trucks are really close to being the same.

The hot unlock power level 6 has the same power as level 5 on the "locked" version, it just fuels to 3200 vs the 2700 stock setting. I know that the HX35 will be at it max with my set up, but I dont plan to add anymore to my truck. Im shooting for a setup like Moparman. I also understand that performance companies advertise HP/TQ number based on ideal conditions and actual gains vary depending on transmission type, how effective the transmission is at putting power to the ground, what supporting mods you have, and things put extra load on the engine that use HP like tire tire size. I started this thread to get a general idea of what I might be at. I dont know of any dyno's around me, and dont really care enough to find out and get true numbers for my truck.

Thats pretty much what I was thinking, but wasnt sure. I do have an HX35, anf the transmission is not stock, but its not a full build either. The EJA maxed out should add 120hp/350tq

I would guess no, but really I have no idea....

You could try Car-part (dot) com. I have bought some stuff off there before, but never anything for a diesel. It a place where junk yards can list items.Sorry about your head....

I know.. I know... Its an old question, but I think I already know the answer, I just need to confirm.My truck has everything in my sig. I have an Edge JWA in the mail, so the Power Puck will be coming off. Would it be a safe guess to assume my truck should be in the 350hp/750fr lbs range, or would it be more like the 400/800 range?

I feel your pain on that one Mopar, I broke 2 bolts off mine also...

The transmission I have now has a trans go shift kit in it. When it shifts you can feel it, but its not bad. I like knowing its in gear. A soccor mom might not like it though. I have read plenty of threads where people have trans-go shift kits and like them.

OID fuse is the main fuse for the whole system? Good idea.

Thanks for the fast responce. I dont have any kind of shelter to park it under... I really wish I did..:(I dont drive my Cummins every day, It might get started once every few days or it might only get run once a month.. Just depends on how much extra fuel money I have:ashamed:

Im pretty new to diesels and this will be my 1st winter with one. Last year my transmission was down and then I shipped out to basic. Question 1:I have weak batteries (I need to replace them, but Christmas is making that tough) and I am wondering what all is going on when the "wait to start" light is on. I know the grid heater is one, but what else? What would happen if I just jumped in my truck and started it like a gas engine? The reason I as I am trying to save power for the starter when its cold.Question 2:When, and for how long should the block heater be plugged in before you start? What would I risk if I left the block heater plugged in all the time? High power bill, Fire? waste of time? As always, thank you!

I do have a CEL but its from my APPS going bad....

I have a single disc converter.... The injection pump did have a few issues. I was worried that maybe the RV injectors maybe where leaking, or not popping right. Other than lower idle and it stalling once going into park once, it runs great! I cant wait to get a few more things taken care of and then step up to a wire tap box!

Before I worked on it friday, in neutral it would idle at 900, when Drive, Reverse or any other gear it would drop to 800 and stay there untill it went back to neutral. now in neutral it idles at 800, when put into gear it dips to 700 then comes back to 800. From what you are saying, 800 in neutral and in drive is normal?It only died once when I went to park. It has never done that before in the 3500 miles I have had the transmission.

Lasts friday I spent a few hours and swapped in my RV275 injectors (40k miles) and injection pump from Blue chip diesel. I just got the base model. Everything went really well and from the time I parked it and fired it back up was less than 4 hours. I watched every video and read every single thing I could before I started work so I pretty much knew what was going on before I touched the 1st tool. Once I was done and finally got the fuel system bleed I noticed it now idles at 800 rpm. Before the swap it would idle at 900rpm in neutral and in gear it would come down to 800rpm. Now, it idles at 800rpm them dips to 700 for just a second then returns to 800. I pulled the truck forward about 200 yard and put it into park and it shut off. I was not moving when I went to park. It started right back up and ran fine, still idling at 800rpm. It has only done this once so far??:shrug:On my road test, It drove great! going from bone stock to RV's and a power puck, plus a new injection pump for me is a huge gain! Now just to add info, my batteries are old, and need a boost on cold mornings to spin the starter fast enough. I plan to buy new batteries after Christmas. Also I keep getting a dead pedal a P0121 (APPS) I know I need one.. again, Im not made of money so I have to take things one at a time:spend:. Would the Apps have anything to do with my low idle? I dont see how batteries would have anything to do with low idle, would low idle be normal for for RV injectors?I list more info than needed incase I am missing something...

I have an AFE intake. It came with the truck, and the filter is NNNNNNAAAAAAAAASTY! Can I put the BHAF on in its place, or is it different? I would like to keep the AFE heat shield if I could.

I find it funny that everytime I am planning, or looking for something 9 out of 10 times someone already has a thread started! :cool:I think I remember him saying Colman Fuel in the vidoe as he is pouring it into the ash tray. What kind of Colman fuel though, I dont know.

I am kind of in the same boat you are Zuk, I just found a set of RV275s. Mopar and the Gang have been nothing but the best, and have taken the time to break it down baby food style for me when needed.

I have been talking to JDkidd with DAP. I really like there price... I have the AD165.. I know all about dropping the tank, not as bad as you might think, but it is a lot of work. ok ok ok! I get it, wire taps are where its at! I think the 6.0 Powerstroke has the laughing stock award on lock down. I did find Blue Chips page... I have to take baby steps when reading about this stuff... its easy for me to get sucked in and get overwhelmed. I will be reading more about there pump. I dont mind spending a little more, knowing I wont have to spend it again anytime soon. I will look at both of those places also. Thanks to everyone, I feel like a baby bird leaving the nest. Kinda scared to make the wrong choice and paying the price.

I assume that IF I had some issue with the pump with in the 1 year warranty period, and I did have the stealth plate, once I sent it in the 1st thing they would do is look at the wire for signs of a tap, and then pull the cover off and see if there was a hole from a stealth plate (I assume the stealth plate pokes a hole in some plastic cover??). If I was buying from Napa, or a local parts house I wouldnt think twice about, but most of the places I am talking to know there stuff about a VP44 and what to look for... I like to plan for the worst case, because so far everything that can go wrong has... Maybe I am over thinking, but so far I have had terrible luck with this truck and I really want to only spend my money once... - - - Updated - - - One of the vendors on CF has recomended running a larger set of injectors (100hp or so), and a programer that does not wire tap. (65hp). Anyone out there have an input on this? My thought on this would be run a Power Puck and 100hp injectors... What would I be looking at with that set up? How accurate are HP numbers. I know that it depends on the truck, but if they say 50hp, will it really be 50hp, or more like 35? There seem to be so many ways to get the same result... I just want a simple yet effective route. I dont like, or need flashy gadgets and do-dads. I would rather my truck look like sleeper... not that Im out to race anything....

Thank you Mopar, If you where buying a new VP, would you feel safe in forgoing the warranty, and installing the stealth plate right out of the box? Good point on the injectors.. makes perfect since. Maybe this is the wrong way to look at things, but is there a way to hid, or get rid of the hole the stealth plate leaves if I have an issue with the pump? Keep in mind, I have never seen a plate, or anything inside the VP... Not to question Mopar's logic, or undermind him, but anyone else have different experience with anything above? I like hearing from more than once source.

I am trying to figure out who to buy an Injection pump from. Most are right around $1,000 give or take $50. I had planned to buy a stealth plate and injector nozzles along with the pump... However, It has been brought to my attention, that any sort of wire tap WILL void the warranty. I have been told that most places sell the same pump, so its areally all about who you like. I really like Moparman's set up with RV275 injectors, and Edge comp box. The comp box is a wire tap box, therefor, No warranty.Questions:1. Who have YOU bought a pump from, and how do you like it?2. How dangerous is a wire tap? 3. What is a good set up for a non-wire tap programmer? 4. I know you "Should" get your injectors pop tested, but what will happen if I dont. If I buy nozzles, and send them out for pop testing, will I have the same or more money in them than if I buy the whole injector from who ever?My goals for the truck is 400ish HP, I know that the general rule of thumb is that the HX35 is good to about 350hp, so I might step up to an HX40 or similar down the road. Who knows..My plans are to take baby steps, So unless I run across a killer deal on a programmer or turbo, I might very well run threw the new VP's warranty period with out a programmer. educate me....

I live in Oxford NC, 30~ miles south of VA.