Remington92

Unless I missed it I couldn’t find a number for rock auto just endless web forms. I submitted a return for the smooth body one. Not sure if it was boxed incorrectly or what. I did send that picture to their Facebook page and got an email address to contact them.

Ooohhh gotcha! I assumed the power levels were just for the base canned tune and not on custom tunes. She runs like a top now that I turned it up! Thanks for putting up with my slowness

It’s time to put ball joints in the dodge so I’ve been gathering parts. Sounds like many folks recommend the AC DELCO pros. I ordered 3 off amazon and One off rock auto since amazon didn’t have all 4 I needed. Here’s what showed up first. Amazon has the dull knurled, rock auto was smooth polished one. So I returned the 3 amazon ball joints and ordered the rest from rock auto. And the ones that showed up today look just like the amazon ones. I don’t even know which one’s to put in since the body length and tapers are completely different from one set to the next with same part number. There’s been a mix of USA and Taiwan made parts I stopped into Napa and their house brand which looks like a rebranded ac delco is same as the knurled one’s. I didn’t want to step up to knurled but I’m under the gun so guess that’s what’s going in. Just a forewarning for anyone looking at ACD ball joints

Sorry if this is a stupid question but are there multiple levels on a custom tune?

Not sure what my next step of diagnosis should be if it works when the quads not part of the equation?

Well crud that’s a bummer

Not sure if this helps or not but I tried leaving the quad all hooked up except the map sensor plugged in factory style and it acted the same with no boost or throttle

No sir, no codes factory or with quad, and I’ve cycled through about 4-5 of the ones from the repository and all act the same. Haven’t tried the canned tunes on the quad yet

Pulled the quad off and plugged factory in and it runs perfectly fine

Ok best I could get out of the map sensor was mid 14s. Where should I start diagnosing if it worked fine before the quad?

What would cause a dead pedal feeling? I’ve got balls to the walls loaded and seems like after quarter throttle nothing changes. My apps is showing full 100% position when I floor it though There’s a definitive drop off where the rpm rate it increasing and then drops off and it plots along Also getting a max of 3psi, checked all connections and looks like I don’t have any leaks and I should hear one that big?

Big night last night for Big Brown. She got a quadzilla with stealth cover, tranny flush with amsoil, replaced my leaky cracked oem wheels with a set of 17” 4th gen wheels that came with good used hankcooks for $150! I did hit a couple snags though. Anyone ever seen where a BD boost elbow is too large diameter and won’t thread into the turbo? Also for most of Me78569 how much fueling should I add for 3500 ft? I took the truck for a spin at 1am and didn’t have quite the punch I was expecting from a few of the tunes. PS ignore the mess, I just moved in and still organizing things and doing some renovations

16 at idle and it’ll get to 18 or so revving to over 2500. Edge got back to me and I formatted the sensor wrong so it’s reading all the values in half so we should be safe enough go button it up and go for a drive and work out any remaining air in the lines

Put a cheap pressure gauge on the system and I’m getting 16-18 idling and reving in the garage so I guess I’ve got to have a chat with edge

I pulled/ dissembled the pressure relief and the bypass valve just to double check I did everything right and I’d heard the Issues with the pressure relief plugging. All looked good. I’ve also got a couple of the fleetguard strainers ordered and were supposed to be here Friday.

Ok got fuel boss all in and no leaks but fuel psi has me worried. I haven’t taken it for a spin yet but letting it idle in the garage for a couple minutes best I get is 8psi romp on it and it’ll hit 8.4ish then go back down. I also notice it’s extremely slow to build pressure. I tried unplugging the electric lift pump and it didn’t change so it seems to be building enough pressure to not engage the electric pump? This is read with edge sensor at the end of 5ft of fuel tapped at the big line kit. Tomorrow I’ll be getting a cheap mechanical gauge to put on the line and see if it’s the sensors problem

Well I don’t know what I did wrong before when I tested it with the turbo on the truck but went and put air to the waste gate and it opened at about 24psi so everything’s fine I guess. Wasn’t a total waste cause it made tapping the manifold for egt easy with the turbo off. So that’s done, big line kit with fuel psi is in, and I’m bout half way through with fuel boss install.

Was having over boost issues and when I put air to my wastegate it wouldn’t budge so I pulled the turbo thinking the valve in the turbo was froze. Got it all apart and turbo is nice and free but I noticed that the actuator rod was stretched out pretty good. Does this look normal? Or did the fella crank the waste gate down to get more boost

Hey guys just ordered a fuel boss and big line kit for my 01 and picked up an s03 cheap a while back to turn on hi idle function (not currently using tuning). So now it’s time for gauges. I really wanted to go back to what I knew with my insight setup on my old ford but pricing them out now with the added fuel boost and egt sensors to read accurately it’s near 850. So I’m circling back to 3 pod style. Looking at isspro, what range do y’all run on gauges? The kit has 0-1600 egt 0-40 boost 0-40 fuel Seems like more of 0-1600, 0-60, 0-30 would fit things better? Also is there a pillar that replaces the oem one or doesn’t involve drilling into it or best off finding a junket to punch holes in?

What is our best option for new wheels? Thought id seen someone mention obs ford wheels. Most aftermarket wheels look way too flashy and SEMA like. I do like the look of the third gens but do they hold up better than our 16s plus then i guess you're giving up load capacity compared to 16 or 18.

Ive got one tire that has a very slow leak i need to get looked at. (loses pressure over a few weeks) hopefully its the tire and not wheels already. Hopefully these are oem ball joints and not knurled enlarged ones. Reading it sounds like Ac delco pro or spicer are the way to go for affordable options.

Also what’s the current recommendation for ball joints? Haven’t pulled it apart yet to see if the currents are oversized

Took my pickup into the local mom and pop shop for a once over and see if they could diagnose my loose steering. Their verdict was ball joints are shot. Trucks has 135k mi and no telling if they’ve ever been changed. After doing some reading it sounds like dodges have a spec for allowable up and down play. You can see how much these move from the wear mark. Does this look out of spec?

I went out and put a set of small vice grips on the actuator rod and couldn’t get it to budge. Guess I better start hosing everything down with penetrating oil and prep to pull the turbo

Best way to get at it to break it loose would be removing the 2 bolts on waste gate or the eclip?