hex0rz

Thanks for the tip! Wow, you would think a load range G tire would allow more weight capacity? Whats the benefit of it seeming to take more air pressure to reach a lower capacity rating compared to my tires, for instance? I have a weight ticket at home, I'll have to do the math, but I think it said it would allow me another 3,400 lbs. on the rear axle before I reached RAWR. As for my rims, I dunno what they are rated for! They are not stockers. I have the new isspro trans temp. kit. It uses a bracket that has 3 diff. holes on it to allow for diff. trans lines. Tighten the sender in the threads of the bracket and it mounts to the line. I have it measuring at a line coming out of the tranny. It was discussed in another thread. Alright, so then there is another question to pose to you W&F. I would like to take this into the mountains. It will obviously be slow going on a mountain road. Alot of it is going to be an ascending drive. Would I need an aux. cooler for this situation then, consider the trans. will not be in lockup and its low speed? As for the trucker comment: I don't wanna be a trucker and get fat...

Clarify this for me, again? Well water is GREAT! I'll be working in a he||hole soon, we are gonna get the filter treatment system you hook up in-line to your plumbing. Takes a big ol' filter canister. http://www.dyersonline.com/shurflo-water-treatment-system.html Yep, we are hoping someday to get some land and build a shop. Put hookups inside and live good.

So what your really saying to me in incognito, is the dealer is trying to get me to buy a bunch of crap I do not need! ...I guess I should start looking at them like a stealership, too.

The whole trip I kept the OD lockout on. The only time I shut it off was when I was in 3rd gear lockup and going too slow for it. With my valve body mod, I think its changed the way the truck shifts and thats one thing it seems to do. If I go too slow in 3rd gear lockup when it engages it will shudder.I watched my trans. temp as close as possible and did as much as possible as accordingly to keep temps low. Funny how it works though. I could see the trans. temp lower when it locked up, but then egt's and coolant goes up. Coolant was not a problem. It only rose to probably 5 or so degrees past halfway line.One thing I noticed was on the first grade I took, I did not get a "running start" with it. I hit the hill and put the pedal down. But it got to a point that the boost peaked, and the engine started to sound like it just started to just make heat. Thats when the egts got to about 1000. But during this time trans. temp was fine and could hold it about 45-50. Was not expecting that...I think that if I could get an edge comp back, it would probably really help. I got rid of mine after rebuilding the tranny. The owner of the shop said get rid of it, that will be the death of your tranny. But I would assume that using it responsibly and watching temp. it should be fine. :shrug:I may be able to look at smaller tires when I get things in order more and/or need to replace these tires. They are still pretty new so I should still have alot of life left in them. I'm wondering though, these are load range E tires, with a capacity rating of 3750 lbs. at 80psi. If I go to a smaller tire in this load range, will I still keep my capacity rating of 3750?Owners manual for truck says shift into neutral and rev engine a little higher than idle. I'm just curious as to what damage or life I have shortened the fluid/tranny by with it getting so hot?I think I have a good idea as to what the noise was that I was hearing towing it. Looking at it today with the light out, I think it may be the wear/stopping block on the back of the hitch. Its in a slotted hole and moves back and forth. It has a bolt with a stop nut to adjust the block movement. I think if I tighten that up a bit it should keep it from banging back and forth... I'm gonna call pullrite on Tuesday to make sure though. Time to refer to the owners manual!When I do get a chance, I will be taking it to a lot and try and get some schooling done. I remember reading that to back a trailer up, put your hand on the bottom of the steering wheel and turn the wheel the way you want the trailer to turn. Biggest issue I was having was over compensating to turn...What does stall mean? I remember reading about it for TC's, but I still do not understand it! I figured that the heat soak is what was causing my temps to shoot up so quick after cooling it down. Cause after cooling it, just making a small movement it shot back up.Would not an aux cooler with an electric fan in it not work? Thats air movement for it, right? I've got regular ATF fluid in it. Its the next fluid on my list to change out to Amsoil synthetic, though.I will definitely give 4 low a try next time when backing. I did not even think about that! :doh:I thought the 2 low was only for people who did not like the lurching? I would like to probably do that now, just because in 4 low, I do not want the front 2 tires grabbing if backing on non-slippery surfaces...YES! When you find the thread, post it!

MAN! So today I got the trailer hooked up and took it out on the road! :ahhh:I can't back it up to save my life. :doh:I did better backing at our destination, but now I done a number on the grass...I planned the route taken to avoid many things, one of them being the bridges... Except when I got about 2/3, 3/4 the through the trip, it started POURING!It was quit the first trailering experience...My trailer is 8'8" wide. The tow mirrors don't get me planed out with the trailer. I can still see behind me, but not straight back...You can definitely tell it IS BACK THERE!I have learned too much in trip already...I estimate 305 horsies with my mods. Making a grade, it started making alot of heat and peaked at 25 psi, just under 1000 on the pyro. Trans temp. was good at 135-140 on grade. I think I need to step up to a larger turbo, one above stock... Maybe I can chip it instead and that would help?Coming down, hit the trailer brakes on the controller a little instead of the fat pedal.Backing in at our destination was a little rough. I was trying to negotiate the turn and I was watching the trailer approach the back of the cab. The bottom of the front ended up rubbing on the bed rail. Did not see it as the back seat blocked my view. I thought, "OH CRAP!" :mad:Backed out of it and took a look at the damage. Got a slight dent in the rail and a scuff on the trailer. Think mr. clean magic eraser should fix the scuff. A slide hammer on the bed rail should help... :cry:My biggest issue at the moment is the trans. temp. I dunno how long it went on for, but I did not look until after assessing the damage. It got up to 220, I think. I thought I read it should never go over 200. I did not think for the slightest moment it would get so hot backing it in. I'm definitely going to add an aux cooler! I took a look at the trans. fluid. Checked out, did not smell burnt.I spent probably 10-15 min. cumulatively to get the temps. down and stay below 200. One small negotiation at a time...I also cannot figure out a noise that occurs as well. I'm thinking its possibly some slop in the hitch head jaw and the pin, or the little bit of slop the sliding hitch has on the hitch itself. Just a little front and back movement. I can't figure it out. I start moving, and just maybe 1-2 seconds after starting to move it will make the noise. Its not consistently every time either. It also was happening some times at stopping as well.Is that a normal occurance for the superglide?Well, I got about 115 miles or so on a 1/4 tank with this beast!Got a little grayer, too.... :ahhh:I'm here still!

Thats exactly what I will be doing. Except I will be using the tank washer to fill it after the initial dump to clean and flush. Now I suppose the other question would then be, black tank treatments? Should I make a new thread on this?

See here for example. Reason I bring it up is: 1. I'm extremely wet behind the ears when it comes to RV'ing. 2. The dealer I bought the trailer from, gave me their speech. They started by saying that I need the RV toilet paper because it is made to dissolve quickly. It will keep clogs from happening and also keep the holding tank sensor free of debris. If I do not use the rv toilet paper, I run that risk above. Personally, I have read about more people using regular toilet paper than not. Sounds like there are just a few principles to live by when it comes to the matter: 1. Use lots of water 2. Keep the tank full as much as possible before dumping 3. Make sure that the tank never gets dry when there is stuff in it 4. Flush and/or rinse the tank after dumping I plan on doing all the above and I also have a black tank sprayout cleaner thingy majiggy that came with the trailer. It also sounds like if there is a possibility, don't dump until after you towed a little to slosh things up a bit. I'll be fulltiming in an RV park soon so there won't be any way to do that. ...I tell ya what, if I had some money for my idea, it would revolutionize the way our poop goes in an RV!

The age old question for rv'ers!RV toilet paper, or not?I feel like I have made a pretty well informed decision, but I figure I would ask others here, first.

...as long as you don't forget about our little deal!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=exQGJx_9C3s

I almost wonder if I should regret not buying this hitch! :banghead: http://www.andersenhitches.com/Products/3200--ultimate-5th-wheel-connection-rail-version.aspx ...and its so cheap, too!

:thumbup2:LOTS OF PICS!Video after so we can watch you turn it UP!

Hmm, I thought they were squishy?

Yes, it is a toyhauler. All the info and pics are in the link in my sig. Yep, gonna get airbags or timbrens. Trying to decide which ones to get. Dunno if I can combine the two. I'm gonna tow it this weekend for memorial weekend. Hoping to hit the scales back on the way home. It will be pretty much empty. Pics are in my sig. You also have a travel trailer, not a big ol' honkin' toy hauler! Hmm, mine should be just forwad of the centerline of the axle as well. Pullrites mounting kit using existing holes for their mounting location. I seem to learn alot through experience... lol. Did a little more research and compared to other toyhaulers they are lighter than mine. If only, if only...

Spent the majority of today installing my superglide auto hitch. Managed to get one from a guy on CL. Its an 18k. Boyo, the parts war eagle sent over to me was some work! Nothing that would be his fault. Definitely makes me wonder about pullrite though. The bolts were too short for the rear brackets. So I had to get new ones.. Biggest pain was taking the overload brakets off. Rusted on! So I could not resist! I had to hook it up to the trailer and see how it was gonna work out for me! Here is the results! ^On uneven ground. It does not sag much. I measured the front a rear wheels for suspension change: Front: - 9 1/4, after hitching, 9 3/8's Rear: - 11 1/2, after hitching, 9 1/2 So it shows to me that with the given pin weight, I should not lose much if at all steering control. It was resting on the overloads, but the springs were not flat. Still had 3" of suspension travel left before it will hit the bump stops. So whattya guys think???? I'm excited. Hope that don't change when I start pulling her down the road... That will be this weekend!

I'm a forum member on ArboristSite. They did a study unofficially, to see what would happen to the volume of the wood in rounds vs split. It showed no measurable diff. between the two.If I can find the post, I will round it up for you guys to see.

The thing about is, there are many advantages to the edge CTS. But think of the cumulative amount it would cost a person to buy all these gauges and the pod, wiring, etc. Your looking at atleast $600 for the shebang.To me, I would go with a CTS. But, considering I had 3 gauges in the truck when I got it, spending the money for one more was not a big deal...

IF your speaking to me, yes, I got it figured out.

I take it your doing a p7100 conversion?

Alright, so yo caught me on a lunch break... ^ Right here at the bottom, it could use a little work with a dremel to make the gauge fit flush. ^ If I was able to take off the column covers(did ot have a torx extension) then I would have been able to route the wiring better. Take the OEM covers off, route your wiring, drill a hole through the top cover where it will be covered by the gauge pod and then hook it up. Should make for a cleaner install.. Be sure to cycle the tilt so you know the wires do not get pinched. ^ Went to the hardware store and got beefier barbs instead of the ones that came with it. Fits alot better. Although, when you drill the holes for them, push down on the cover good so you have a nice tight fit. The pod is not contoured 100% acurate so you will have reveal problems like seen in this pic, behind the key cylinder.

I just recently got an autometer gauge pod installed on my steering column. With an isspro ev2 trans. temp. gauge. If I can remember while I'm out and about working on the truck today, I'l snap some pics. Busy putting in my 5th wheel hitch... It does not really block that much of your instrument panel. Only time its in the way is when I need to see the WTS light in the morning and when I need to make sure I'm doing 20 in a school zone. Other then that, if an idiot light comes on, it will ding. So I'm not worried about not seeing one of them until it dings... I'm glad I have the trans temp gauge there as well because its very easy to glance at. Thats important when going heavy.. How likely do you think it would be for you to smoke a diff. from getting it too hot? I've thought about the 3 gauge dash pod to put front, rear and maybe fuel temp., ambient air temp, or drive pressure in it. But how many heavy pullers reallyhave a diff. temp. gauge? I would almost say as long as your fluid stays good and full, add a larger diff. cover with cooling fins and be done. Adding a total 7 gauges more to the truck to monitor things is more justifiable to go with an EDGE CTS. Atleast everything is contained to a single monitor and you can pick what you want to read. Many many options with that route. Especially when you get a tuner, to boot!

Eyeballing it to your bed on your truck, I can see that the dimensions of the trailer are what you say they are. I still don't think you have 2 cords on that trailer though... Looks more like 1.5 cords to me. given the air space and it does not look like it is stacked 4 feet tall consistently. I guess you'll find out when those rounds are split and stacked, mister! Now get to choppin'!

Two cords on that trailer? ...no way.

If you want to, go with this alternative: http://www.xtremediesel.com/autometertripledashpod1.aspx

Thats what I'm trying to say! Those SpinnerII's !