angus

Just wanted to update this topic.. He limped the truck over to a local transmission shop for a rebuild. and found that the band had either slipped or became dislodged?? The pan had a lot of metal shavings in it, but its not exactly clear what was causing the converter to stay locked up. Anyway, We went ahead and bought a Goerend billet apply lever and ancor just anticipating a valve body upgrade in the future. After he talked with our local Guru he assured him he could upgrade his stock valve body for $300 bucks and it would do everything he wanted it to do. So for $2500 bucks he got a new heavy duty single disc converter, a complete rebuild, and an upgraded valve body.. So far so good and the truck has good firm shifts and a 30k warranty

From my experience with my son`s 24V`s from the times he ran out of fuel, was to take one of the plugs out of the top of the filter canister,, bump the starter till fuel flows, reinstall the plug. Then crack three of the lines at the injectors, hold the foot pedal on the floor and crank 10-15seconds at a time..... If you not seeing fuel after 2-3 times or having a cylinder starting to hit?? I would suspect you may have an injector pump issue.

I`m thinking the same thing.. Throwing parts at it and then winding up pulling the whole thing for a rebuild doesn`t make much sense. I would like to figure out how to check for an electrical fault with the TC lockup circuit though before we drop the thing out. From my past experiences, it is the PCM that controls TC lockup correct? Do you know which wire it is, and does it send ground or 12v ? Thanks Mike, that's a good place to start.. With the thing suddenly having symptoms of two different issues I wanna check for some simple stuff first. Is there a way to print that schematic?

I`m thinking the same thing.. Throwing parts at it and then winding up pulling the whole thing for a rebuild doesn`t make much sense. I would like to figure out how to check for an electrical fault with the TC lockup circuit though before we drop the thing out. From my past experiences, it is the PCM that controls TC lockup correct? Do you know which wire it is, and does it send ground or 12v ?

If I`m remembering correctly the symptoms of the original problem were the truck did not want to upshift after everything got up to operating temperature. He could WOT and let out and it would go ahead and upshift. The next day he drove it down to Orielly`s to check for codes and it shifted normal (cold), but it did have a code for governor solenoid. Its sat in the driveway for about a month, and this is the weird part... Now that the TC is acting up the shifting issue seems to have went away??? Is there any connection between the governor/transducer and the TC? or is there anyway way to eliminate the lockup switch just for test purposes? I`m not real optimistic here, but it would be nice to eliminate the TC if possible.

Yeah I did`nt get to talk with him too much about it today, but I gather the TC is locked all the time... Like trying to stop at a stop sign without a clutch pedal in a standard??? @Dynamic Ok see if this works?

Have not been able to check any codes yet. He took it down and put a scan tool on it awhile back and it confirmed the governor pressure issue. not sure what the DTC was exactly. We`ll do another scan and see if anything new has come up. How do I tag @Dynamic ???

My Son owns a 2000 3500 DRW with a 47RE. He has been experiencing occasional symptoms of a governor pressure solenoid failure. He has not been driving the truck much lately, and has been waiting for the opportunity to get under there and replace the governor and related parts. He drove the truck yesterday, and now a new issue has come up. The Torque converter appears to be locked and will stall the truck when he tries to come to a stop. He managed to get the truck home by putting the truck in neutral and dropping it in or out of gear when he had to stop. I have never heard of a lockup issue quite like this one... Any comments or suggestions would be much appreciated.

Somewhere in this thread I thought a reference to an idiot light, or charge light was made??? I normally let my truck run a few mins on cold mornings,, I have been in a hurry and heard the chime go off before I got out of the drive way, but did not catch an ABS, or any warning lights flash. This is probably just be an anomaly that happens under certain circumstances.

Yeah, I haven`t really watched the meter, but I`m sure when the lights are dimming prior to the alternator engaging there is some voltage fluctuation. Once the alternator picks up it is virtually unnoticeable. never seen a charge light come on??

Looking at some of the corrosion your seeing, I think I would swap the whole rail out.. Just me.

I have never seen a charge light on my 03. I notice the grid heaters cycling by the lights dimming momentarily immediately after cold startup, but after a couple of minutes the alternator kicks in and after that I don`t notice any voltage fluctuations or change in engine tone. Just wondering if your newer alternator has a lower amp output than the original??

If I towed as much as some of you guys I might look into it.. Man that's a lot of gear oil !

I thought there must be something special about that gasket to $$$ so much. The 11.5 holds almost a gallon of gear oil as well

Just did some homework and I have an 11.5 ring gear. The darn gasket is $57 bucks.. WTF? Is it supposed to be reusable or what? The one for my old GMC 14 bolt is $5 bucks

The guy at Orielly`s tells me there is two different size 14 bolt AAM axles listed for my truck, one is a 10.5 ring gear and the other a 11.5 ring gear. I`m guessing it is 11.5 but not certain? I`m getting ready to change the rear end grease, and looking for a new cover gasket..... He tells me both of the cover gaskets for AAM axles are $50.00 + !! I am tempted to try the old fashioned silicone route. Any thoughts?

OK, issue solved. For anyone removing their rear disc, Get a block of wood and as big a hammer as you can swing. Violence is necessary! No need to loosen or disconnect park brake cable either

Working on the rear disc brakes today, time to replace pads, and I need to get the rotors off to be resurfaced. I have loosened the park brake cable disconnected the cable at the rear axle, and I can`t get the rotor to budge! I have tried everything short of getting a bigger hammer and the rotor will not release from the axle flange??? Am I missing something here, or do I need a bigger hammer? I don`t want to destroy the brake rotor.

If we ever get a good reliable source of Bio in my area, I may switch and call it good. From what I read it would be hard to improve on at least from a lubricity standpoint. I tried mixing my own for my tractors a couple of years ago, but the pure bean oil seemed to be really filthy and not properly filtered. I decided to go back to two stroke until we get something that is refined better. We do have one store now with a Bio pump, but they have had a reputation for having water in their gasoline.. So I`m not interested in experimenting with them.

I believe the statement about the buildup or residual film left behind after combustion to be a true statement. The benefits to a "CR" injection system may only be marginal, but rings, upper cylinder walls, and exhaust valves should all benefit.. but then again my Ph.D. is leaning against the wall out in the barn.

That study seems to be, or is suggesting that 2 stroke suspended in unevaporated fuel has little or no lubrication properties, and I have a hard time buying that. from any 2 stroke engine I have ever seen. A high percentage of the fuel/oil mixture is sucked into the crank shaft first, and the pressure created by the piston down stroke forces the mixture into the combustion chamber through separate intake ports. I`m sure part of the reason for this is cooling, but I don`t see any type of load bearing surviving without lubrication.

So the front and rear vent are connected by a Y with a filter at the end.. I always thought the filter was also a check valve as well. Is that incorrect?

Ok.. vent 101 revisited ! What is the benefit of a severe duty vent kit?

The barb in the front should be your fuel return, and the one in the rear should have a hose connected with a check valve in the end of it. unless you drive through extremely deep water? I don`t see how that could be an issue. The one on the filler neck is there to vent pressure while fueling Gudge posted a thread in this sub forum titled "truck died on the highway and will not start". He had experienced two rail pressure sensor failures. One which failed low, and the later failed high. He provided an in depth analysis of diagnosing his problem. If you skip to his closing comments you can find the voltage values he found for the two bad sensors, and the correct value for the new sensor. When you get your fuel issue resolved, I would check that first.

Are you referring to the vent hose that connects to the filler neck? Why do you suspect the vent being a point of moisture entering the fuel tank? The actual vent in the rear of the tank should be at least as high as the frame rail.