angus

Something like that.. He got a price of around 5K to have it fixed, then he promptly traded it off. Now he has a 2015 with the delete, maximum tune, and still drives the same way. Its his money and it makes him happy LOL!

I don`t see a connection between injectors and head gaskets. My real concern is melting a piston, or cylinder wall. Temperatures have warmed up considerably and my truck seems to be perfectly normal again. I have good filtration but I`m not interested in pushing the envelope to see how many miles I can get on OEM. The cost of a good set of injectors is easily offset compared to a total rebuild on an ISB engine that still needs injectors. Back to head gaskets.. I have a good friend who loves his duramax`s .. He has to have the 250hp tune and drive with his foot in the floor, unfortunately he knows something about head gaskets. Just Sayin.

Yikes! I have inherited another daily driver, so I`m thinking of giving the Cummins a break until I get the funds to change injectors. I see the BBi` stage 1 running around $3,400... What else does a guy need to complete the job right? Nozzles, crossover tubes, what about the rail lines, and the valve cover gasket? I know there is a special tool to extract the tubes.. should I go ahead and get a barring tool to rotate the engine as well?

I might need to look at mine as well.. I have the OEM draw straw, and then I have a short hose spliced into the metal line to my BD lift pump, and I had that line loose when had the air lock debacle.

It seems to just occur randomly for me?? I did change all the fuel filters about 6 weeks ago and managed to get the lift pump air locked... That took a little while to figure out

Getting ready to turn over 180k. Now that I think off it, I have noticed it on rare occasions in winters past but its much more common this year. It smells like it is running a little rich when it happens, which may be normal for a cold start. Sometimes it starts doing it again after a short trip and I leave it idling. I have noticed it at regular idle and high idle as well. I can rev it a little and it cleans out, or if you put it in gear and just drive off it goes away. After it gets completely warm there are no more symptoms. I think I`m getting into the "great unknown" for CR injectors, but I don`t want to overlook something simple like a temperature sensor.

I usually plug the block heater in when the nights get in the low 20s or lower, and my 03 always starts good with the grid heater. However I have noticed this winter when I start and let it warm up in the 32 degree range +/- it tends to start "chugging" after idling a bit?? If it were a gas engine you might think it had a cam with some overlap in it... anyway.. drivability is still good, and after it warms up everything seems normal. I wouldn't think much about it except that it did not used to do this. No CEL, and I have not checked any codes yet.. just wondering if this might be symptoms of a sensor issue, or injectors starting to crap?

My Son`s 2000, 3500 has had some erratic transmission behavior going on for a little while. It seems like a the familiar TC lock/ unlock issue.. At lower speeds and rpm it continually searches. Turn the overdrive off and the issue goes away. He pulled the alternator fuse and took it for a test drive and the issue also went away. Now fast forward. He bought what I believe was a remanufactured alternator from Oreilly`s last week, and everything seemed great for a few days. The trans symptoms have now came back intermittently, and on top of that, the new alternator is now making a slight squealing noise like the belt is slipping a bit. Oreilly`s offered to swap it out, but my question is who makes a reliable replacement? does he need to pay a little more for a new (if available)?

This is just a good news story about a small family owned Company from the great state of Idaho. Hoffman Boot Company from Kelogg, Idaho manufactures quality work boots for practically every trade. They are well known for their quality and comfort, especially in the logging and Lineman professions. When My youngest son began Lineman school At OSUIT last fall. I spent the extra dime $350.00, and got him a pair of Hoffman climbing boots. After about 12 months one of the boots developed a stitching problem in the sole. I contacted Hoffman to see what the cost would be to repair the boot, expecting to get a pro rated price since they were outside the stated warranty. They simply ask me to send them back so they could take care of the problem. The day after they received them, Tom Hoffman called to inform me that they were shipping a new pair of boots immediately "no questions asked" and they wanted to take the old ones apart to see what went wrong. Hoffman already has a great reputation, but the service, and the way they stand behind their product really impressed me. For anyone who really appreciates a great pair of work boots I would highly recommend checking out hoffmanboots.com !

I`m kind of the odd ball here. I like the BD Max flow pump from XPD. You can run it as a stand alone pump, or with the modular filter bases you can run it in any configuration. Pre filter, after filter, or both. The compact design makes installation above the frame rails a breeze. http://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/bd-diesel/flow-max-lift-pump.htm?popup=n&gclid=CNOWmaLJ-M4CFQ8yaQod53oN1Q If I had a 2nd Gen, with a top loader OEM fuel canister. I would run this with just the W/F pre filter and put a Baldwin PF 7977 5um filter in the can.

Yes I meant the low return line.. So to flush the steering gear along with the whole system. What do you think of the fluids with seal conditioners? I`ve seen Valvoline and Lucas both make a PS fluid with conditioners. I still have memories of working on the old purple "99" where everything associated with the PS was leaking.. Pump, Hoses, Gearbox, hydro boost, that was a nightmare. I can`t imagine how that truck got that bad.

I`m coming up on a routine service interval, and I`m thinking its time to flush and replace the power steering fluid. From past experience I have removed the high pressure line, started the vehicle, and had someone turn the wheel side to side a few times until air started coming out. I`m wondering if anyone has a better method? Also, What about fluid? Anyone try any high mileage fluids with seal conditioners? or just strait PS fluid?

Don`t want to hijack this thread, but why is it that alternator AC noise issues are so prevalent on 2nd Gens? There may be issues on 3rd Gens as well ? but I haven't noticed any on this site.

There are not too many 20 minute freebie upgrades a guy can do on his truck. This one ranks right up at the top. Got to thank @Mopar1973Man for this one.

Like Dripley said, have someone turn the wheel for you while you try to locate... The 3rd gen trac bar is a nice upgrade, but I doubt it is the source of the noise your hearing if you just replaced with an OEM.

Will it make the noise while turning the wheel sitting parked?? If not I would raise the front end to unload the tires and go from there. Check the steering shaft, gearbox, pittman arm, tie rods, etc,.

In my case turning the valve counter clockwise to 12 O`clock applies full brake pressure. In any case look at the valve and the linkage as if the truck was loaded heavy and tie the valve back in that position. You might tinker with it and take a few test drives to see if you like the different feel. I was surprised at how much difference it made on my rig.

My 03 Dodge doesn`t have a load valve. My old 85 GMC did,, So it might be a little different. The theory behind it seems to be the more the rear end squats the more brake pressure is diverted to the rear brakes. In the case of my GMC the valve was connected to the rear axle by a linkage arm. The valve itself has a arm with a stroke that runs roughly 12 o'clock to 5 o`clock. after removing the linkage arm, I used a zip tie to tie the valve arm up at 12 o`clock which would simulate towing a very heavy load. The result is I now have full brake pressure to the rear drums.

@Royal Squire Kind of hard to get a good view.. but the flange is about 3/8 thick and has a nice smooth machined surface that hopefully ends the annoying drip!

I`ll try to get some on the Ipad... I`m one of the last few in existence that refuses to pay for a smart phone lol!

Along with tackling some brake issues on the old GMC this week, I also decided to take care of a nagging transmission pan leak I have lived with for years. I decided to go with a Summit brand aluminum deep pan, and went the extra mile with a lubelocker reusable gasket. The pan is really a nice piece, and to my surprise "made in the USA" .. After torqueing the bolts to 120 inch lbs the old turbo 400 is now dry as a bone underneath. Gasket technology has taken a great leap forward in recent years. They are considerably more pricey, but the payoff in having no leaks and being reusable seems worth the investment.

@KATOOM this old truck seemed like it was biased 80/20 or more toward the front. When I tied the valve back I noticed an immediate difference when I backed out of the shop. I drove quite a ways on a gravel road just to see if the rear was going to be over sensitive or lock up.. it feels more like 60/40 now and The fronts will lock up before the rears. I think in my case disabling the valve is a good thing.

Today I adjusted the shoes all the way out, then backed them down about half a turn. went for a test drive and no real difference... I think I was already pretty close. I decided to try @Mopar1973Man comment in another thread and unhooked the load proportioning valve and tied it back.. This made a noticeable improvement! This old truck is so stiff in the rear you would have to seriously overload it to ever get the full effect from the rears. Thanks Mike!

Just some idle thoughts, but could the VP be the source of the bleed back? You might try clamping off the line at the VP over night and see if the AD still has prime issues? My Son`s old 99 was always a hard starter which left me suspecting the injection pump after trying everything else under the sun. Tel: (973)340-9955 Email: sales@straval.com Stainless Steel Check Valves Inline Check Valves Stra-Val designs and manufactures its own line of Inline Check Valves. If you are looking for high quality performing Inline Check Valves, you have come to the right place! Our Check Valves are manufactured out of stainless steel (316 or 303) or exotic alloys (Titanium, Alloy 20, Monel or Hastelloy), depending on your requirements. We have a selection of NPT sizes for our Check Valves, you can choose from. We strive to provide you with HIGH QUALITY products and UNBEATABLE prices! You can count on Straval, to satisfy your needs! If you need assistance, please don't be afraid to contact us. You can reach us by using the contact form. If you desire, you can give us a call at (973)340-9955 or at our toll free number 1(888)380-9660. CKV-05 In-Line check valve 1/2-2" Npt All Stainless Steel standard. (Hastelloy, Monel, Alloy 20 or Titanium Check Valve are also available) 1/2"-2" NPT THD Adjustable opening pressures from 0.5 PSI (~0.03 Barg) to 3 PSI (~0.2 Barg) or factory set to 1.5 psig (0.1 barg) Select size 1/2" CKV05-05t3/4" CKV05-07t1 1/2" CKV05-15t2"CKV05-20t1 1/4"CKV05-12t.1"CKV05-10T VIEW CKV-05-EX Exotic Alloys:In-Line check valve 1/2-2" Npt Hastelloy, Titanium & Monel and Alloy 20 (Stainless Steel Check Valve model also available) 1/2"-2" NPT THD Adjustable opening pressures from 0.5 PSI (~0.03 Barg) to 3 PSI (~0.2 Barg) or factory set to 1.5 psig (0.1 barg) Select size 1/2" CKV-05-05T-EX3/4" CKV-05-07T-EX1 1/2" CKV-05-15T-EX2"CKV-05-20T-EX1 1/4"CKV-05-12T-EX1"CKV-05-10T-EX VIEW

yeah I use anti seize on all kinds of stuff... but never thought of it on this one... sure enough I had one of the adjusters froze up again today. I think you are on to something RS. Went for a drive down the dirt road, and I think the rears are still a little loose.. Its really kind of hard to tell where your at without running them all the way out.. Question is how far do you run them back down?