shanebob

good point on both, I don't plan on running oversize tires ever. you are correct on the install, i read it wrong at first. the only thing you have to tear out is drivelines, t-case and cross member from what it seems. It seems like a guy that wanted to check and see if he was having a problem could spend the half hour or 45 minutes it takes to tear it all down that far and remove the extension housing could check the torque spec. on the locknut which is 280 ft.lbs. or better yet! torque that sucker down to 280 ftlbs and weld ya acouple beads on that locknut, PROBLEM SOLVED

hey guys and gals, im sure this topic has been beaten to death on here but i have been debating on this 5th gear nut fix for some time that fithgearrepair.com offers. I have right around 286,xxx on my nv4500 and i installed a new clutch at 160,xxx only cause the release bearing was shot, my fault really, i catch myself rollin down the road with my foot resting on the clutch pedal . With that said, i pull my 21ft nash bumper pull all over the western states and rarely pull in 5th unless i'm on a nice straight stretch going across nevada. There are a lot of claims that if your retaining nut hasn't slipped off yet, it will. ultimatly loosing 5th gear. Would it be wise as a preventative maintenance to drop the tranny and perform the fix or wait till i loose it to repair it? just wanted to gather some feedback and if any of you out there have dealt with loosing 5th or have performed this repair

:think:might be a dumb question, but is you system charged? mine had the same issue, turns out i had a very small leak that needed re-charged every once in awhile

guess i should have clarrified:doh:, the stock speakers were great until i went with an aftermarket unit with a sub and amp. thats when the speaker started popping and cutting out. i did replace it with a stock speaker and havent had any problems since:thumb1:

just recently had the same problem, thought it was a short. checked the connection, still had power. turns out the stock speakers just arent that good:shrug:

man it must be nice haveing access to all or most the parts you need to fix the problem right at your fingertips. i worked for a bus company with the same deal and oh how i miss it so:cry: glad to hear your gettin the problem solved

this thread had me laughing the whole time. i feel your pain though, we did the ball joints and steering box on my buddys o2 and holys*it balls was it rough. i broke down last july and took mine to schwabbys to get fixed. i needed new rubber anyways but 3800$ later had fresh tires and a brand new front end:ahhh: i did purchase my stabilizer and put it on in about half an hour. that thing drives like a dream now. speaking of that. any of you guys run the lukes link? i was running that before the rebuild and it seemed to do pretty good with moderate adjustments every once in awhile.

i know i changed my stock batteries after 6 years! i bought a set at les schwab down in boise with 995 CCA and have run them ever since. i have been impressed with them and there alot cheaper than optimas. i suppose it all comes down to your preferance and price range really

so acouple years ago i was traveling back from a wild weekend in riggins and hit a rock with my rear end. checked everything out underneath and it all looked ok till the next morning. there was a substantial puddle underneath. i replaced seal after seal where the driveline hooks up and to this day it continues to leak. so the question is, is there anyway i could have tweaked the rearend enough to make that seal keep blowing out and is there anyway to find out or measure if it did move?? any help thanks