InGear

https://www.freightwaves.com/news/cummins-repurposing-engine-filtration-material-to-make-n95-masks

Thanks, I got a cut-off installed, recommended by dripley. When you wired your 150 amp circuit breaker for the WT mod, does the aux/load side connect to the battery and the batt. side of the breaker attach to the alternator cable?

Yes sir, I bought one after I read some threads on here about gauges. The auto meter gauge kit had a isolator with it. It was aluminum cylinder shape with a diaphragm about 1-1/4" in diameter and about 3" long. Seems to be pretty steady. Only time in the seat will verify the setup. I've had 3 vehicles all with issues since my Dodge started bucking. I have two back in shape and the Toyota needs a flexplate (cracked), so that will be a new adventure. Two wheel drive automatic. Never done one solo.

I was able to pump out the tank into 5 gallon bucket with the old pump. Dropped the tank, pretty straight forward when practically empty. May have been 4 gallons left in it. I have a transmission cooler behind the skid plate so had to settle for mounting on the outside of the frame. Worked out well. I got my Airdog from Vulcan along with the draw straw bulkhead rig that seats in the fuel module where the old in-tank pump motor resided. A new Autometer gauge mounted below the ashtray and tapped in the ashtray light for power for the illumination feature. Running at 15psi. Got my throttle back. WooHoo!! I still have the analog test meter hooked to the APPS module plug. It reads pretty steady all the way through the throttle but I want to test it tomorrow with the cruise control on a smoother road. Bouncing around and into the throttle, I wasn't for sure the needle wasn't fluctuating or my foot moving with the bouncing. Thanks for your help.

The ground from the controller is attached to the body ground next to the battery. The charge controller manages the charge and shuts off when batteries are full charge and manages the alternator charge to protect the solar panel.

I use the 5watt, 12volt ECO-WORTHY(shown on the same page as link for Amazon) with a 10amp charge controller from Wholsale solar. I began with a harbor freight cheapo that worked for long enough to be out of warranty. The charge controller is mounted on the cover for the air bag connectors. Theres a hot lead on the controller that powers the CB. It works well . The solar panel sits on the console/arm rest when parked and leaned up against the CB while mobile. The CB is mounted on a fabricated bracket that I cloned from one that Geno's sells. This set up has served me well.

Yep. Seems like a safer option. Less rigging. I have a transmission cooler mounted on the frame right behind the transfer case but it looks room between the fuel tank and it on the inside of frame. I want to keep it accessible but" high and dry"

It looks to me that the bed would hit the cab just lifting the front and leaving the back bolts loosened. I have a 4x4 quad cab. Stock rims.

Take all the bolts loose, drop some long bolts through the passenger side to keep the bed from sliding off then tilt and support the bed, Pull out the fuel pump/sender and modify w/Draw straw? Otherwise with out a post lift, I would need to jack up the rear to clear the high rear part of the tank and accommodate the jack and what ever I would use to support the tank, which I'm guessing I would need to lift it about 10" minimum. I'LL spray down the bolts tomorrow. Snowing here at the moment.

Thanks Royal Squire. I Found the straw and pump for a good value. Should arrive to me next week so it gives me time to wrap my brain around the process of removing the tank and I can pump it down into some 5gal. containers as it is full.

This keeps popping up in my ad feed at the top of page. it doesn't look like the one in Mopar1973Mans pictures of his airdog install

The second pump being the in-tank pump? There does look like a splice connector in some wiring that plugs into a sensor that is in the block on the drivers side near the delete. would the pump run when the oil pressure came up? That splice connector may be for the edge attitude

Thanks. Can the pump delete thing on the side of block go away? I'm a retired plumber. I can plumb anything. Just now getting familiar with the Cummins. It has run strong until this bucking thing showed up. even with the VP44 death code set, it ran great for almost two years. I will be shopping now. Thanks again mopar1973man

Will I have to drop the tank to install the draw straw and is the airdog with the water separator and filter all in one housing the better set up? Could I remove the pump delete and the factory filter housing if I use that set up?

i'm pretty certain that my lift pump is drawing through an in tank pump. The pump is dead. The wire are plugged into it and I traced it up under the hood and they are bundled in two wire looms and ther is a red wire that splits and is plugged into a relay. I guess this is the fuel pump start relay. I unplugged the Fass pump and Key on. No Noise. Bump starter. No noise. So Pump in tank, I'm guessing must be dead. The Old factory lift pump "block delete" is still attached but the lines that ran through it are unhooked. The Fass draws from the outlet of the in-tank pump and the return is still hooked into the intank pump. It looks like I will need to rework this set up before I keep trouble shooting my "driveability" problem. Thanks for leading me down the right paths. I guess I need a draw tube set up. I'm not that hip on the lift pump set up.