YeaImDylan

Thank you for the input @Tractorman! I will look into this. You say it was subtle in your case which mine isn’t… it’s pretty loud from outside the truck and I can feel it in the wheel. Obviously it’s more subtle there but feeling on the actual steering equipment underneath… not subtle by any means. Was this the case for you?

Sorry for the delay gents. @Tractorman Truck has 300k. I'll list below what I had the shop replace Steering box (w/ a redhead) Left Inner tie rod Left Outer tie rod Right outer tie rod Pitman Arm tie rod 2 tie rod adjustment sleeves Both sway bar end links Track bar Steering Stabilizer Track bar bolt and nut The popping noise had been occurring before I took it to the shop the first time to have the above parts replaced. Steering was sloppy and I figured these items may have been original. Previous owner had replaced ball joints but with cheap ones.. I plan on replacing those in the future but alignment shop said they weren't terrible. The pop seems to happen more when turning the wheel to the left and then coming back to the right in that same spot, doesn't do it again until I am turning it back to the left. Steering also seems pretty stiff and doesn't like to turn easily all the way to lock. I felt my friend's steering with an OEM box and 35's and it turned flawlessly all the way to lock. I thought it was the steering box having issues with the bearings and whatnot inside causing the popping sound. The old steering box was also stripped on one of the holes. Got the truck back the first time and drove it home with no more popping. The next day or so, the snap/pop returned. Truck went down for a few weeks due to fuel in oil and then once that was situated, I took it back to the shop because it was still popping and also the redhead was leaking when turning a lot to say back into a space. They replace the redhead and then said the frame was cracked at the I believe sway bar area (I can post a picture of before and after the welds). Truck stopped popping after that and then I get it back to the barracks and low and behold... It's making the same popping again. I don't think its the frame nor was the frame even though it was cracked in that area. There's no way the frame was moving enough to make popping noises. A creak noise.. maybe but that was not the case. Steering shaft has not ever been replaced I'm assuming. When I put a screwdriver up to the box, I feel the pop more towards the top. Maybe it is just the shaft and when they would install the boxes and move it around, it would fix itself for a few miles before falling back to its weakened point where there's weak points from wear? @Mopar1973ManI was wanting a blue top but at the time I was getting the repairs done, they were out of stock for my year sadly. I was wanting to save the money and get the same quality part as a red head but it didn't work out that way. I hope this write up can paint a better picture and hopefully we can figure out what's making this popping noise!

Hey all, back with more problems. So, got most of the friend end rebuilt at a shop and got a red head installed. The popping noise when turning went away for a day or two and then was back. Truck was down for awhile for fuel in oil and I brought it back to the shop under warranty. They replace the redhead because it was also leaking when turning. They then told me it was still popping after the replacement and they think it was the frame being cracked in that area. They welded it and I bit the bullet on that price tag. Drive the truck back with no popping when turning and the next day its back again... I don't think it was the frame causing the noise. It was cracked but I think it's something with the box. I can feel the pop with a screw driver and its felt better near the top of the box rather than on the frame where the repair was made.. I'm at a loss and this truck has been nothing but problems lol I'm planning to call redhead and ask about this all because I have seen posts about the boxes coming too tight from them but man, 2 in a row?!

Great people to work with! They were full of helpful knowledge when I bought my injectors and tubes from them. Even got a military discount and free 24v shirt!

How do I find if I have a Dana 80 or 70? Would it be stamped on the pumpkin?

Are those fully bolt on? No welding required?

Hey all. So was cruising down a dirt road here at about 30-40 and gave her some fuel and tires broke loose a bit. With that, I got a bouncing vibration in the rear end and I’m assuming it was axle wrap. Is this normal since I have higher HP than stock with no trac bars? It does the same if I break lose on pavement too. I’m trying to figure out if it’s just the added HP or if something is worn and needs replacing.

So, do you guys believe it’s worth sampling the oil when that was fresh and only has about 10 miles on it? And probably a gallon of diesel in it as well? I am certain there’s diesel in there once again but I’m not sure if it would show wear that quickly to get a good guess of what could be damaged ( if anything is damaged). I’ll do the sample if you all think it’s worth doing with only 10 miles on it, then investigate into the pump shaft seal being blown out or injector installed wrong and hopefully fix the issue. Then change the oil and run it for a bit with no fuel leaking into it and then do another sample.

Yes, guy I was talking to said he ran his like 30 miles and something caused it to lose a ton of oil and he got home and drained only about half a gallon out. He rebuilt the engine later and the bearings weren't even that bad even after that disaster. I have a guy who will hopefully be helping me figure out what's going on. Gonna get it towed to his house hopefully this week and we'll go over it and put new oil in as well. I'll see if there's a dealer for oil samples around here. Truck seems to also have blue smoke now when I start it up. Can't remember if I mentioned that. I wouldn't think a few miles would've erased the rings that quickly. Before she wasn't chugging like a train or anything out the valve cover and still isn't. Just had a vapor rolling out. Is it possible the valve seals went? All these new problems are stressing me the hell out lol and I'm not sure what to do next. Can't sell the truck in this condition and I'm pretty opposed of just dropping it off at a shop and letting them figure it out for a couple grand.

Seems to be about a 10-20 PSI difference. I'll try changing the oil again since there was a lot of fuel in there. I only ran it for maybe 10 miles until I noticed the problem. I've heard of guys blowing something and losing a ton of oil and getting home and the bearings and all that are fine and not catastrophic. Just unsure of what to do next. May just try getting rid of it and buying a non-molested 2nd gen from some older guy whos had it since he bought it new.

I'll try and see if I can find the trans temp sensor. I didn't buy/install the harness myself, it had come with the truck. For the oil pressure specs, I've seen them and I know I'm in spec but it just scares me since before I did the injectors it was consistently much higher while cold and at temp. I checked yesterday afternoon with a mechanical gauge off the filter housing and in about 50* weather I was getting maybe 40 psi on both the dash and mech gauge. I had a bit of blue smoke upon startup as well. One friend passed the blue smoke off as residual from the injector swap but I had driven it 10miles after doing the injectors.

Hey all, back again! lol So, I got my DAP 150's in and there seems to be yet another issue. Truck sat for a few weeks and then I got to doing the injectors and changed the oil and filter (had a lot of fuel in the oil). Put 3 gallons in, got the truck started (checked oil level before, was above operating range) and truck drove and ran great with the new injectors. Was getting about 60-70 PSI cold and once she was warm she was at about 40, but then she went to about 35-38 while cruising at 60. At the stop light, It was right above the lower limit line on the dash gauge. Got to my destination ASAP and shut her down. Looked for major leaks or anything and didn't see anything going on. I went and ate and then came back after an hour and checked oil level and it seemed to be below the point on the dip stick... I'm planning to get a mechanical gauge and fill it up til I'm in operating range and then start it up, get it warm, etc and monitor it. One of my friend's believes that it sitting for a few weeks drained the head, galleys, etc and I got more oil out than usual and then put the 3 gallons in. I also spilled some off the head because I put the new oil in with the VC off and didn't realize some was going over the edge I don't believe I let 2+ quarts go over though. I'm afraid maybe running a few miles with fuel in the oil ruined my bearings or maybe ruined the seal on the turbo. Planning to check for oil in the downpipe here too. If any clarification is needed after this ramble, please don't hesitate to ask! Thank you, Dylan

Are there any other battery sensors for charging I may have to re implement that may have been taken out with the passenger battery by the previous owner? I didn’t even know we had a sensor underneath the driver one on our 2nd gens

Sounds like I’ll be picking up Walmart batteries! I may just bite the bullet and pay the 250 for a nice set of cables too.

Maybe I’ll just bite the bullet and buy a pre made kit… just would like to save money building the cable set but don’t have all the time currently. What batteries do you run btw? Idk anything about what brands to get and how many CCA each one should be.

Hey all, back again in relation to my battery. Running a single currently and it is dead and I want to replace it and do 2 and re do wiring. How long would I be ok to run a single? I’m planning to source the cable supplies myself as someone else did it who commented on my old post but it wouldn’t be for a few weeks possibly. Only strain on the battery would be cranking since I do not have a grid heater.

The crossover and negative are still there in some capacity. I'm more concerns of what ground and wires were on that passenger side battery... Also, the crossover goes from positive to positive and each negative goes to ground or whatever? I feel stupid asking (especially since I took AC/DC theory in MOS school lmfao) but in all honesty electricity spooks me and I am not confident at all when hooking **** up hahaha. I'd rather be spoon fed info in regards to it all.

Thanks for this. Didn't realize the battery posts have different diameters. Thought they were both the same. Is there a battery isolator or anything specific for charging or to prevent over charging? I believe he 3rd gens and up have something but I may be mistaken.

I heard that with our 2nd gens, the parameters have a max of like 33in tires or something... I posted on I think the Facebook Cummins forum group and people were helping me out with that and someone said you can't change the speedo to work for 35s. I'll do more digging into this and maybe stop by a mechanic shop and offer them a 12 pack to use their snap on scanner real quick! Hahaha

Wow, this is great! Thank you so much for this. I may just go this route! How many feet of each did you purchase? Also, did you replace every single battery cable?

I'm planning to clean and inspect them when I do the injectors hopefully next weekend. Guy recommended I use I think break cleaner and a scotch pad. Do you have any recommendations?

I just get worried I'll over tighten it and I hear these lines are very easy to score and mess up... I have a set of lines I can get for 150 off a truck if mine are damaged from the last time I took them off.. I have a possible leak at the injector nut nearest to the block on the VP. Told the shop to tighten everything up but I still see it leaking I believe and you can't get in there with a regular snubby wrench. No rough idle or anything though.

Hey all. So, truck runs on one battery due to previous owner making their own compounds in the garage and putting them in and deleting the battery. I'm wanting to get 2 fresh batteries and do everything back the right way (and sadly may buy all new cables for 300). I'm wandering if anyone has a diagram that will show every ground and wire I need coming off the passenger side battery? Also, is there some sort of isolator or something that may be removed? If not removed but disconnected, where would it be? Any suggestions are appreciated so I can get this done correctly! Haven't had issues starting her in 25 * with no grid heater or plug but I want the truck done right and also maybe fix electrical issues she may have due to changing grounds around... Thank you! Dylan

Surprisingly when cruising my EGT's aren't that high. They will rise quick but I sit at about 600-700, can't remember if that's in 5th or 6th though and I'm doing about 60MPH. Once the truck is back up and running I'll figure out what my EGT's are when cruising. Hard to tell what my actual mph is due to my speedo being off and dodge told me they can't change it at all I just know it reads faster than stock. I'd love to get more mpg but not sure I can do the smaller tire look hahaha. I may in the future swap to 4.10s but I believe that costs quite a bit!

Hey, I'm trying to improve my MPG with my 35s and 3.55 any bit I can!! What did you use to torque your lines down? Like what type of socket or attachment? Or did you just go by feel?