Haggar

Thanks guys!!No, you guys have me thinking. Which is helping a lot.So that is what the downpipe is for in the banks system. It is because the stock exhaust won't bolt up. I would have to use that with the diamond eye too, as it is designed to connect to the stock elbow.....The only reason I am considering the 4" is the exhaust on the truck now is hosed. Not sure that I can get a stock system for $300 to my door.I missed a Jacobs on fleabay new for 750. I see a few used units ( elbow and actuator only, no controls). I know there is a master "arm" switch to turn it on for a manual, but what tells the solenoid when I am on/off throttle. Does it look at something in the apps? do you add a switch to the throttle mechanicals?Again thanks for the input!!!Hag

It might be a Ghost!!! It just so happens that Micheal (Mopar1973man) just helped me remove a ghost P0500 (and other codes) on my truck. Take a peek at this thread. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/6040-Key-trick-VS-scanner-code-reader-and-laptop-do-not-agree HTH GL Hag

Guys,A bit of input please. I am very interested in purchasing an exhaust brake. I see that there are some that will work with my existing vacuum system and some that use compressed air..... Not certain that I want to add a compressor and associated cost.(boy it seems nice and would work for the arb in the future....) My question mainly revolves around the connection to the exhaust. I need to replace my exhaust, and I was looking at the 4" diamond eye. Many of the lesser cost Exhaust brakes I am finding (Jacobs, Banks etc...) Say works with stock exhaust only. (I am looking at the elbow type brakes.) Since the Diamond eye would replace a "stock" exhaust, would the above be the correct elbow brakes? (I think I just answered my own question, but input would be greatly appreciated!!!)Also If I am staying basically stock, AND I don't have an automatic (so TCC control is not a worry) is there any REAL difference in each of the different manufacturers approaches?Thanks for your input,Hag

Totally missed that in your Sig!!!:doh:I think you are golden!!!Hag

Mohok,The P0500 can be set from something as simple as spinning the tires lately. The computer has sensed a funny input from the rear wheel speed sensor. It is located on top of the differential.If your speedometer is still working and you do not have an ABS light on, the code may have just been from a strange spinning incident. To clear the codes you have to use a code reader or scanner. Most of the parts stores like Advanced, Autozone and O'reilley will read and clear them for you.Not hard to replace. Both the cruise control and the Torque converter clutch (TCC) (lock-up) use information from this sensor to do their respective jobs. I hope your problem will clear with a code reader. If not you should replace it, or have it replaced pretty quickly. A long trip without lockup in 4th gear can lead to higher than normal transmission fluid temperatures.HTH Hag

Awesome idea!!!! Will give that a try at lunch and report back!!! Hag - - - Updated - - - Wohoo!!! That worked well. Thanks!! Now only the P0222. Will use the sheet to check for wiring problems there!! I ran key trick, got above codes (mostly ghosts). Connected 6000 got P0222 only. Disconnected ECT. Started truck. (surprised how long it took the ECM to notice that the ECT signal was missing) saw new code in 6000. check gauges lite came on properly. Stopped truck. Reconnected ECT (forgot to do the key trick....) scanned with 6000. saw 2 codes now.... P0222 and P0118. Cleared codes. performed key trick, only P0222!!!! (just a quick question.... last sentences in step one says "if voltage is > 4.5v go to next step. If voltage is <5.5 volts, go to step 8." Should the 5.5 volts be 4.5 volts? (I am thinking so.) Thanks, Hag

I too am not an automatic guru, but during my research for an exhaust brake, there have been many mentions of torque converter upgrades. I think this would mainly stem from the added amount of locking and unlocking. (the clutches slip just a bit at each application/release) I personally can see that the added locks and unlocks would decrease the overall life, but I don't think I would prophylactically add a new TC. I would watch it, and replace it if-when it is necessary. GL HTH Hag

Sorry guys this could get a bit long. So I will try and stay on point. Key trick shows 1 PCM code P05000 and 2 ECM codes p0222 and p0217. (I do have a SES light and solid BRAKE light showing on cluster) Since these appeared after some major repairs, and during a new frrp install, I tried to just clear them and see if they come back. I first connected an Actron CP9035. It showed only the P0222 code, and would not clear it. Ok, so I pull out my Auto X-Ray EZ-6000. It connects fine (a bit slower than most other cars, but connects and shows intake air temp, throttle position, coolant temp, vehicle speed etc in real time) It sees only 1 code p0222. It will not clear it. Ok, so I get the laptop and carcode. It connects fine, I can see many things (basically the same as the 6000). It sees one code P0222, and will not clear it. Now, I get the that the P0222 could be a hard code and maintaining the problem (though the trouble shooting shows that this SHOULD only occur with the ignition ON AND engine RUNNING, It theoretically could be cleared during a key on engine off connection) I might not be able to clear it. Has anyone else shown a discrepancy between key trick and actual codes? That is my main question.... I will make a couple other posts on how inconceivable it is that there really is a P0500 or P0217 code in reality (could they be ghosts?). Thanks, Hag