DeepEastTexas2Gen

Before you make washers review my post earlier this year. My cover was warped 1/8”. The new gasket blew out within days of replacement. When I repaired it 2nd time I checked cover saw the warping. I used flat bar( see the pictures) to add pressure to the outer rim of the cover. So far so good!

I discovered a slow, slow drip coming from the return fuel line banjo nut on the vp44. Tightened the bolts slightly and so far the starting problem has been solved. tThanks for the help

Today several quick starts & several delayed cranks. Checked codes got a 1693 code in the mileage box. Read several comments about this being a companion code. Got the scanner out and Scanner captured P0380 Glow Plug Heater Cir P1690 CKP SENSOR doesn’t agree with ECM CKP sens P1689 NO COMMENT BETWEEN ECM & injector pump mod P0122 Throttle pedal sensor circuit low

My truck has long cranking issue but I think it is caused by a squashed key on the VP44. I tried to buy a new one but the looks from the counter guys & gals told me all I wanted to know. That is for another topic on the soap boxes! Anyway I dug into my junk found an oversized key filed it down to fit the shaft & gear glued it in the shaft. Fired right up. Cold cranks quicker than hot starts. Any ideas? Ironforger tell us about your forge. Been thinking we waste too much tin can iron!

I thought everybody knew to oil the battery terminals. Ralph McBride taught me at 12 yrs old, back in metal oil can days, when changing or adding engine oil drip the cans on the terminals! And on that hood latch & hinges. Now back to the alternator, please.

Reading these posts prompts a question. My truck is a 2000 with standard transmission and 327000 miles. Based on this info would you say I’ve used up the ECM CYCLES? What does it cost to rebuild the ECM from top to bottom?

Reading these comments about low voltage causing problems with the ECM creates a question. Did Cummins or Dodge correct these issues on later year models? 2007? Asking because my son has a 2007 and we are having electrical issues. Batteries replaced and going down overnight.

My cover was warped about 1/8”. I installed the Felpro gasket the first time but Dodd not use any sealant. Ran about a week and blew out. That is when I checked for warping. Used the same gasket but used a sealant AND put the 2 1 1/4”X5” plates to add pressure on the lip of the cover. Solved my oil leak.

My experience with oil leaking on the driver side of the engine sounds like your story. PULL THE VP, vacuum pump & steering pump. INSPECT the tappet cover & the plate that seals the old mechanical fuel pump hole. However that is toward the rear! Good luck! Forgot this item. It is in the location where you are leaking. Did you check the vacuum pump oil supply line which attaches to the block up front.

Update: Almost a month now and no leaks!

The exhaust valve acts just like an expansion valve in an AC system. The gas laws say the temperature is directly proportional to the compression. That is why the exhaust temp drops QUICKLY when we reach the top of the hill and coast. The expansion of the compressed air creates a cooling effect. Diesel engines are compression ignition engines. Fuel is atomized for short bursts into super heated compressed air. At idle, the burst is measured in millisecond. Results =engine continues to run or idle coasting down the incline. If fuel is completely cutoff engine dies. The VP44 high pressure bursts to each cylinder are varied by the voltage received from the TPS which equates to load. At idle, the TPS minimizes/shortens the burst but the fuel pressure HAS to be high enough to pop the injector.

Picture of flat bar tensioner on outer edge of cover. Update: When I checked my cover it had about 1/8” bow or warp along the edge. I installed 2 51/2” X 1 1/4” flat bar tensioners to exert pressure to the outer edge of the cover. I also used a high temp JB Weld silicone sealer to hold the gasket in place with this repair. I pulled the bolts much tighter than specs. Got it back together at dark yesterday so now to test it. I do have some blow by but I cleaned the breather when I first replaced the gasket.

2001 with 326,000+ Previous sloppy work as VP44 had 2 top studs with nuts & rear bracket was broken. So I’m assuming original pump went out prior to 127,000 mi when I bought it. Over the last year, oil leak developed. I wasn’t overly concerned with miles upwards if 300,000 until I was adding 2 to 3 qts every 100 miles or so. Eventually traced the leak to either vacuum pump or pushrod cover. Resealed pump & replaced power steering pump. Still had the leak. Pulled the VP, Vacuum pump & the cover. Replaced the seal on the cover. Inside of 2 weeks the new rubber seal blew out again. I will use a high temp gasket sealant this time AND ADD aluminum flat bar the width of the cover so I can increase the pressure applied by the bolts to the outer edge of the cover. Longer bolts to accommodate the 1/4” flat bar. Also will drill holes & thread them 1/2” from ends of flat bar to add vertical pressure along edge of cover if needed. I will add pictures when completed.