keydl

The surest way to carbon up injectors is to run the engine in hot and shut down, it also helps to lug down to get good quantities of smoke.I suspect that they would run well on 50% mix, I'm not going to try it without a full fuel bench because I would be more than annoyed if I was wrong. I have been using misc oil that is under 50wt at less than 10% with normal operation of the engine. There is about 30 gal of misc refrigeration oil ( about 2/3rds used from a compressor change ), 3 qts of 30wt nondetergent, 5 gal of used Hytran hyd fluid, motorcycle fork oil... the numbers are pretty consistent 20 mpg with the topper ant tool boxes and 18 with the camper or equipment trailer or both and running a little slower.The only thing that did not compute is a gallon of WEO -Rotella syn- that computed 17.89 on the pump numbers but dropped almost 1mpg when I added in the WEO with the pump numbers. Guess that I will go back to using it for trailer deck preservative.keydl

One of the symptoms of short brushes is intermittent operation, same with thrown solder on the slip rings. Because it is not currently broken, it may be that back probing the field leads with sewing pins and wires to the dash so that you can read the voltage. PCM or harness fault is 0 volts, open circuit on the rotor will give over 6 volts. I may have to go out and read mine - but not today :)One other thing if the ground ( return path ) is not in good condition it can cause an amazing assortment of other problems as the ground path goes through the transmission or throttle linkage. One ate the clutch linkage, the engine ground strap had been left off and the customer rode the clutch but his daughter did not. The link rods were nearly eaten through and it would not charge more than 5 A with the clutch up, ridding the clutch it was normal generator function. Put a ground strap from the block to the frame and it went to work. Any two major parts of an alternator go out and it is normally cheaper to replace it. Rotor, stator, diode set, frame are major, pulley, brushes and bearings are small and cheap so they can be in the 4 wheeling parts stores.keydl

The regulator is in the PCM and the cause is often as simple as redoing the ground connections, or check the speed sensor and the sensor at the vibration dampner. The A/C quits if the sensors are not workingIf that section of the PCM is not reliable then an old style voltage regulator can be wired in, a relay from a key on that supplies the regulator on to 1 of the rotor leads. The other rotor lead is grounded and the regulator should be grounded to the alt frame.Poor grounds are the most common cause of electrical malfunction, bad battery terminal connections account for about 70% of the AAA's no start calls. About 1/2 of the electrical problems that I see started as a poor ground, from a tail light tattle that insisted the working tail lights were bad to a no start because of dissimular metals corrosion that stopped when I moved the ground from the aluminum valve cover to the cast iron block.keydl

The blood foam was unpleasant to work with and bad to cleanup for the next class.The 1 L bottle would have washed cloths, it was on a rack with 2 5 gal of water and 2 5 ft flex ducts and a 'nozzle' to go in the door crack. The other was a gas powered blower. You run up to the door with the 85 # blower and get it running while the other sets the rack with water and detergent on the blower, hooks up the 2 pieced of flex to the blower and usually the nozzle thing. You set a brace on the hatch so it does not slap you silly from pressure in the compartment and the other fellow pokes the nozzle in. when it gets dark you ease in and find the dummies. The last time they were using 2 hundred # steel mesh bags of gravle that were laced togather with wire rope.The guy that ran that session was still burned from the Kittyhawk, when they pushed a bunch of planes over the side and lost some people. Rumor was loose ordinace on the flight deck. I have forgotten most of it, but the Prov was in the group when it happened.That package seemed to me to be the nearly perfect thing for vol fire crews, even 1 person - run up with the rack and go back for the blower and be finished in 6 min before a full crew gets there. Mount one on a brush truck and stop a grass fire.If the company did not survive, the patent should be deadkeydl

In the Navy I was with both forms of 'fire control' - 5 trips to damage control fire school. The last at Pearl where the had a very interesting toy. A foam generator carried by 2 that generated over 4k cubic feet of detergent foam a min. With a truck sized unit you ought to be able to lay fire line at a rapid rate. A 50 foot high wall of foam that lasts up to an hour or a lump of foam on a house.For an oil fire in a compartment it was amazing, put 1/4 inch of bunker fuel on the deck and wait until the fire gets to the other side door, then run up and pull the string to start the engine while the second man connects the hose and sets the tank in place. Open the hatch and poke the nozzle in and the foam runs out the other side in 1 1/2 min from the time that they let you start.The downside - that fire training chamber is out of use for drills until the next day. And everything is by braille until the foam is gone. No need for soap to wash up and goggles are required.It would be difficult to do a kitchen fire without filling 1 or 2 other rooms but the water damage is 2-3 quarts of water and detergent mix.I haven't heard anything since about it after '70 so the patent is probably gone.keydl

I am running Shell Rotella synthetic and put a gallon of drain oil in the tank. No net change, I plugged the pump gallons and miles in for mpg and the result is the same as the last 3 with the camper on. Of course when the gallon of drain oil is figured in the number is lower. 17.89 with about 11 square feet more sail and 1900 more #.But then I knew that the drain oil does not burn well, it is useless for burning brush.keydl

Higher concentration of oxygen is lower ignition temp. Blow 100% o2 onto steel wool in the summer to show that it is a good thing to turn off the welding bottlesBut I had always reguarded boost as more air in the same volume = a higher temp. Which brings up intercoolers. 1 bar is 14.7# and 2 bar is twice the mass of air but the combustion chamber stays the same size so the no other variable is that the temp also doubles. Simplification to look at a single point, the 10# change in boost is tied to a boost in air temp at time of injection for a more rapid flame propagation so the timing map is altered, the people that design stuff like this tend to be less than radical about risking damage to the equipment.I have not seen the demo of steel wool burning at 5 bar with air, which would be the same demo as turning the o2 hose on it for concetration of o2 in the steel wool.keydl

That is a challenge that aproches getting a dozen or so swabbies with no math training to wrap their heads around the weapons fire control problem. The ship is bobbing up and down while underway and the plane is going to try and guess where the shell will go so he won't be there. Problem is to see 18 seconds into the future so the plane and shell get close.keydl

I can only claim partial responsebility for the dried (but not too dry ) jello. One box with just a little more water than to fill a sandwich box, an oiled sandwich box and part of 1 day and all of the second. I laid it on the side of a quart plastic and filled the rest with jello that I ate for lunch before nailing the chunk to the temp power pole. I think that most of the crew poked it to see if it really was jello.About a year later one of the same crew demonstrated fast draw, aimed fire with a nail gun. 3 nails in less than 1/2 second - timed with a Pact timer. The strawboss was accustomed to using jello thing as a normal complaint mode so the next day Ol' Dan'l brought the snuff can and some jello, and did the fast draw with the snuff tin full of jello for a target. 2 good hits and 1 that cut the edge. Being Friday it was to good of an excuse, we only lasted about an hour before knocking off early to go to the rifle range. Never get rich with that crew unless you can out shoot them all the time :)keydl

Well there are 3-4 methods for the performance of this task.Simple put it in a plastic bag. When the mark complains, drive a nail through the fat part of the bag.Next up is freeze it with the nail in place, less gripping but it is harder to eat.Put it in the sunshine for a day with a much thicker than normal mix.The most skill, put it in a snuff can and toss it at a tree while grabbing the safety rod on the side of the nail gun to shoot a nail from about 3 feet.keydl

That is when the train horns with 150# air are nice. A paint ball gun under the front bumper is a thought that has entered my mind. A paint ball marked car ought attract 'contact reports' from the blue light people. Hundred w lights - piker - ought be 500w at least. But ya I only have a couple of 100 watters but I am looking for some strobes.For tailgators a spray in the wind of WEO makes it hard to see, then you slow down so they pass and run the hi-beams on them at every hill that they disappear for a second. It doesn't take a lot of oil :)Explaining why I did not shut down instantly when a car tried to run me off the road in the wrecker was almost not worth it, I carried him about 1/4 mile to fetch up under our yard light, and used the office phone to call it in to the CHP instead of the Sheriff. Deputy got there first and argued for 5 hours that it was me did the 'asault ' instead of the kid hat lost a bar fight the week before with the usual driver that had some time off. But found that out later.keydl

That is aproching 2 tons :)If you are a smooth driver you can make a beer run without losing much.keydl

For those that are using synthetic, when you read the gas application ratios the synthetic has 100:1 on the label, most of the dino only goes to 50:1 so my guess would be to duplicate Mike's work for the synthetic. It is easier to work up - just add for tank capacity for the next level of treatment. One quarter oz per gallon for a full tank at 35 gal tank is 4 1/2 oz.I have sent 100:1 gas with synthetic with the crew for the 2cycle stuff for 5 years with NO seisures, it runs the 4cycle stuff with no problems and since they go uot with a new 5 when they are scheduled I have had no problems with contaminated gas. Of course the 5 can coming back is always empty so if they left the cap off in the rain they will put it in their pickup. Not my problem except to have a fuel filter to take out to get them going agin instead of wasting 1/2 a day cleaning the water out of the mower, no screwups with the wrong fuel killing a chainsaw or string trimmer. It is just a point on mostly not needing additives for the most part.The point on fuel for diesel is that mine was designed for fuel with a 350 rating and the current 520 ULSD causes squeaks and complaints from the forward part of both of my pickups that the 2cycle quiets I tried a gallon of WEO the last tank for a calculated 18.04 which would be about the same as without but there were a couple of other changes - the camper rode the whole time with about 400# of tool in it and the rear tires were changed from 3/32nd tread 245's to 9/32 265's for a gain of nearly an inch in rolling radius. I haven't clocked it on the mile markers or GPS yet.For a reasonable repeatable run on fuel mileage with the way the tanks have vent room and so forth 1k miles is about the lowest number that has real relavance. That is without all the lab gear to help banish error.keydl

It is the kinetic energy in the combination and the trailer not tearing out as a wood framing would do. That fiberglass is strong, but as it started down it gave wayThe canopy was designed for wind load not trailer load, bet the insurance rates go up and the razzing lasts a long time.keydl

Do something that you like and you don't have to work often, but there are always those little details that go with any job that are work.Is that kind of camping work? or part of the job that you like?If I had my druthers - dry land wheat - but this year is the first that I can see that it may pay well enough that you could start up with out enough money to retire on and not have to work.keydl

I have worked for some places that keep a scrapbook in the customer area but the fake muffler would not be a part of the book.I did 6 in fakes for 5in when CO and OK were writing no muffler tickets, the word just kind of spread locally, when I drove they were to loud so I put in a cresent baffle - still to loud so put the same in the other end. Made it ok for me. Then we got some smaller diesels, Toroflow, 3208 and a Dutze and when the exhaust needed help they got fakes, the 3208 was a non turbo so it got 3 partial baffles, cresents in the ends and a straight in the middle. I used 2 foot long because the parts house stocked 2, 4 and 10 foot exhaust pipe and after asking a couple of times the kept adapters 3 to 6 in sizes. Much better than notching the end of the larger pipe to transition with a lot more welding.Last one was about 6 years ago for a Detroit in a Freightliner Classic that the baflles broke loose inside, 5 in SS elbows from the tee underneath, 1 foot SS male to female, galv adapter 5 to 7 in, 3 foot of 7 in galv with 2 baffles on the ends, 5 to 7 in adapter and SS stacks. All galv full welded and the welds painted galv color. Over 100 lbs weight savings. Behind the heatshields it looks the same as the muffler.I have given thought to building a 4 in for mine, still have a little 5 in around, but the exhaust on mine is nearly new when I bought the truck. The current cost for the parts to go 4 in from the turbo is $20 less than the stock system shipped from Rockauto but there is about 3 hours fab time to put the 4 in togather.I will likewise have to learn to upload pictures, I have a $20 camera that I did get pictures to the screen on the last computer but have not had occasion to try on SUSE 10. OS. Not much interest, but the 4 in exhaust would make a good 'how to' with nearly all 'out of the bin' parts from any HD truck parts house. The security video cameras work well with SUSE, might have to make an extension cord to use one of them to get pictures.keydl

Vacation? Daughter took a new job, so I got to help her move. She is the new principal of the Sand Point Christian School, looks like a nice place and super people.My sister came in from Denver, so I had to take a week off for that.I guess that is more than the average slack.keydl

The cheap sneaker muffler is 2 five to 4 inch adapters and 2 foot of 5 inch pipe for a 4 in pipe. Trim the lapover on the 5 inch side of the adapters and weld to the 5 in pipe. install as a muffler. If you need a little baffling to reduce the sound add a 1/2 block off at both ends.3 in is about 7 square in 4 is about 12 sq in5 is about 19.5 sq inOr you could use about 1/3 block on the 5 in for a straight 4 in area. The 1/2 coverage sounds ok to me. YMMV :)keydl

The rude and crude way to do it on the side of the road is to use a cold chisel to part the bearing from the holder after pulling the 4 bolts.At the shop a couple of 5 # slide hammers with welded adapters to thread onto 2 opposite holes on the bearing from the outside after the bolts are out of the threads.If you use the chisel take a file and remove the burr that raises on the mounting surface and the brake shield.keydl

I think that the design of both engines fuel systems predates limitations on how to make diesel from the government other than that they post the cetane in some states.Most of the design changes in mechanical injection were pretty well set by the middle 60's with only refinements for longer life and cheaper manufacture cost.They got a dose of 3rd world reality with the GM 5.7, not a large safety factor and most that worked on them did not follow the book. Even at the dealers shop - I was in a Buick shop in the early 70's and moved on to an AC tractor shop when the EPA sent a letter promising a $2500 fine for making the cars run well at over 5000 ft altitude. Each car. The next 10 years the air pollution got a lot worse, was the letter part of the cause? It made a difference in the shop where it was posted, the dyno was traded for a 3 gas analyser. Dad closed his shop and worked as shop forman for Chev until he retired. He took 11 of the 14 help with him to Chev. Between 72 and the early 80's there was no altitude compensation for gas engines, just turboed diesel would run properly. By the mid 90's the fuel injection computers worked correctly at 10,000 ft.If I have to buy replacement parts and they are current production, they will probably work with the current fuel and have a normal service life. But if they are old inventory.....When the LSD came it mostly only did in the high hours pump seals - the competence and honesty of the shop was the difference between a $200 seal and a $5000 bill for the same seal and the pump it was in. Local shop and a out of state dealer.You followed the dealers advise and bought a pump but then the connection with the safety sheets pointed out the advertising that the additive makers was deceptive - as proved by the thedieselplace tests that you post. I read a little of the posts ( I paid a lot of money for this mouse milk because of the advertising and I can't be wrong - so you are insane ). If that had not got your competitive spirit up I would probably not found the 2 cycle posts.I still need to get a paste piece to answer the - 2cycle is not designed for diesel - stuff. 2 2cycle is designed for reciprocating engines. Diesel reciprocates as opposed the the Mazda rotary. It may have worked for the short seal life on the rotary engine as well.My opinion is still that the increased fuel mileage comes from better lube on the upper piston ring and that engines with moly rings will not show much increase but chrome rings will.keydl

The old breakin sequence was to inflate to the sidewall label for 500 miles and rebalance. It takes about that long to work te beads fully into place. The 1st 100 miles under 60mph to let things ease into place and not have hot spots, especially at the bead. For cars that were 'freeway fliers' and never left the pavement add 10% more air pressure.They have lots of give in the new tread. As the tread heat cycles and outgases vapor it gets harderDad did not much care about balance - any where in the big ring on the bubble balancer - within 1/2 oz on the spinner but when they came back at 500 mile they were spun on the car to a random flash. Mostly less than 1/10 ozkeydl

If the fuel is pumped through a pipeline, the current plan is to have the tank wagon driver add the lubricity material to the wagon load, brand specific.At 200:1 2cycle meets the lubricity minimum, how much further will an engine rum with a better lubricity spec?My engine was designed for a 350 HRRF spec and the gov mandated spec is 520, so the correct fuel is no longer available but the current fuel serves when mixed with 2cycle. I suspect that IP and injector service would be needed at intervals of less than 100k instead of over 500kI suspect that the 2cycle also lubes the compression ring exactly the same way that it does on a gas 2cycle engine and so, much less wear. The 500k engine runs 800k until a valve head falls off from fatigue and the engine is still a good core.My personal best for long lived is 411k on a car that I gave to a high school student that piled up miles faster than I did, I think he probably got another 40k before he failed to add oil every week.If someone else wants to run 2cycle I am interested in the results, I suspect improvement down to 50:1 but am not finished with the first run at 128:1 on the Dodge. A fuel mileage sample is over 1k miles and a check run on additive ought to be around 50k. I think that there are people running 256:1 with synthetic 2 cycle.What we are doing with out a laboratory is what the oil refiners should have done with their computers and data, that they did not do it leaves me a little suspicious of dastardly deeds to the favor of the equipment manufactures. YMMV and that is the subject of this web site!keydl

The recommended stuff for cleaning crud on hydraulics is croucus cloth ( much like buffing compound ), being in a hurry most times I get by with 400 or 600 grit wet sandpaper. You will want to look for any fluid sign with the coarse gritAnother way for steel or most plastics is oven cleaner - USE GLOVES !. It will eat most oil base and aluminum transfer ( galling ) without damaging the steel or most plastic. Seems hard on some nylon.The grit in the rear wheel cylinder rode the posh rod movement in all probability because of dry assembly. Brake fluid holds the stuff out while holding it in place the same way oil collects dust.The contact points on the backing plate need a smear of grease so the shoes will slide back with just the springs.You might consider a wash out nozzle to wash the inside of the brake drum from the garden hose. A 1/4 in hose with a fitting taped or bulkhead fitted on the backing plate so it hits the drum and splashes the mud off the inside of the brake. They use them to wash out the brakes dipped in salt water at the boat ramp.The Rock Auto parts web site has the dimensions for a lot of the parts with pictures of some so that if you know that the seal ring is 75mm you can cruse for other apps with a 75mm seal ring as long as the dust cover is not tornI generally clean up with a pressure washer - 2500-3000# - then there is much less cleaning to do when the parts are in hand and you don't breath the wet brake dust. Don't use stuff that smells like solvent to wash the parts and rinse them in alcohol before wetting the inside with fresh brake fluid.One of the current maint recommends is to replace brake fluid every other year to prevent corrosion and settling out of wear sludge. If it is dark colored change it even if you just suck it out with a baster and pour new in. Doing that at every oil change will exchange the system volume on a partial basis.Good pics.keydl

I think that the tree huggers with empires in the government are jumping with joy because Mike parked his truck. I have heard some express it as a big problem that prices are not over $5 like they were in Europe. They think hat kids and poor folk ought to tale public transportation, if it is not available then move where it is.keydl

I think that the size that you are looking for is 8 R 19.5. Ought to be about 33 in tall with a 6.5 in tread width. One of the best running set of tires that I have run in 5 rib hiway, sieped and Toyo brand. The D300 they were on was singled up because one tire was cut, but the sidewalls had a big enough number that it looked OK on the scale most of the time. Then I caught one of the crew pulling a 12x70 down the hiway with it. I pullerd it in abandoned with a bad engine and good tires, so it got a 383 transplant out of the next wreck.In 3 years it collected over 100k and the tires still looked about 1/3 left - one of the few that did not need tires.keydl