tonyjsan

So far no icing up there is "sweating" seems like there could be more. I'll have to try the high side line to see how hot it is, that's what I was thinking the high side will burn. As for the re-charge another was done few weeks ago (thinking it needed more due to the poor cooling) I added a 14 oz can of freon (12) / oil (2), after that I started getting the "hard start" on the compressor as I call it, so figure I had overcharged it. I evacuated enough to get the compressor to short cycle then added back 1 12oz can. At this point it's not gotten warm enough to test it for sure, today at lunch with 80 ambient temp, center vent was 45, however humidity today 25% (very low for here), the other day humidity was 90%+

System has never been opened that I'm aware of, Dodge dealer added freon while back.

Moisture in the system would be from a leak ? The evaporator I can't get to easily, so I would look for leaks, repair as needed, flush entire system remove lines flush, remove condenser flush, evaporator flush best I can still in truck, replace orifice, dryer, evacuate, recharge, or screw it take whole thing apart hmm. After doing all that only other possible problem area would be compressor and/or evaporator, trying to follow path with least cost, and tear down (if it's not broke don't fix it lol) for now. If after all that still does not work then has to be evaporator. For those that have removed the HVAC how bad a job is it, I consider myself intermediate in terms of abilities to tear stuff up and put back together. Condenser gets cooler as you go down, how cool ?

I live in an area (deep south Texas) that's just hot and humid, ac is a must. My ac use to blow 45 degree or colder air no matter the temperature humidity outside, recently the ac performance began to degrade. As the ambient temperature increases so does the temperature of the air coming out of the ac. On a day in the 90's temperature of the air coming out of the center vent (temp readings done with max ac, fan on high, center duct) would run from 55-65 and humid air. The ac system is still all original parts from 2002, other than being recharged 2 years ago at the dodge dealer and few weeks ago. After putting gauges on here is the basic findings (center vent temp is about 55-65): Static pressure is same both sides (100 psi) At idle Low Side 40-55, High Side: 200-350 (ambient Temp, 84-95). The high side does show “spikes” occasionally, sometimes they are rapid spikes meaning a jump on high side of 50-100+ (low side stays the same as I recall, might go up a bit), then high side drops to previous psi reading, sometimes the high side will start say at 200, then gradually go up does not come down, low side will go up as well, not sure if that means anything ? At 1500-2000 rpm Low side 35-40, high side 200-250 (both sides steady pressure, no spikes etc.) Other findings: The condenser seems to have a the same temperature (running my hand across condenser), anywhere I place my hand. Dryer / Accumulator seems to have good sweating, high side to me should feel “hotter”. When using the gauges I recover some r134a, in the sight glass the color was reddish / brown, is this normal ? Once in awhile (mainly when ambient temperature is 95+) when the ac compressor first starts, you can hear it strain , the belt does slip a bit on the compressor pulley when this happens. Overcharged system ? I evacuated enough freon to start short cycling (thinking overcharged), then added back 1 120z can. This seems to have stopped the “hard start” as I call it, seems to cool just a tad better. Can't test for a hot day as cold front came threw last night. Could I have a blockage (orifice or dryer/accumulator), evaporator plugged with years of dirt, ac flush needed, to much ac oil ?? Thanks for any help

not to short they where all original stock parts I did have to change the belt tensioner as well. Changed all this stuff over the weekend, and new thermostat, so good to go. Getting coolant flush at dealer friday, so i'm almost ready for summer 5th wheeling I do live in near the gulf coast, so salt in the air tends to reduce life of everything here

Nope on power wash the engine bay. I've never cleaned the engine bay since I've owned the truck. Seems to stay clean. Did get a bit dirty before I got rid of the breather bottle.

Thanks for the tips, greatly appreciated. Finally got all the parts so going to change them all this Friday, water pump, fan clutch, and fan hub bearing. They are all original parts from 2002 so I got my money's worth lol. Replaced the alternator and tension pulley several weeks ago for same reasons bearings going out. If I think about perhaps i'll take some pictures of the fan hub replacment. Again thanks

I am needing to replace my “Fan hub bearing” as dodge calls it. I'm looking for some general tips / feedback etc, if anyone has replaced the fan hub bearing before. Listed below are few specific questions 1) Based on the diagrams I've found on line the “hub” bolts to the front of the engine, once the bolts are removed any surprises there I should be aware off. 2) From my research the bearing is pressed in, tips to get it out and re-isntalled. I do not have access to a press aside from a rubber mallet, block of wood, bottle jack etc., 3) Tips removing the fan clutch, (saw one that said use c clamp to hold fan pulley in place). The threads on the fan clutch are opposite rotation ? In past I've used sockets, pvc that has diameter of bearing I'm installing / re-installing. Read some where that's not recommended for the fab hub bearing. Thanks in advance, Tony

Thanks for the information everyone. Now I'll leave the pedal as is lol.

I recently had installed a South Bend DD clutch (sdd3250) and replaced the hydraulics with south bend as well. My question is what is the correct "Clutch Pedal adjustment", should this be set such that the clutch behaves a certain way (aside from engage/disengage ok). or just set pedal height to one's desired comfort level or maybe it's none of the above and I missed something lol. Right now the clutch pedal is about 1" above brake pedal.If you have a double disk clutch, would you mind sharing with me how different the truck drove after the install. I went from a stock clutch with worn out south bend hydraulics to double disk.Thanks in advance,Tony

I'm going to replace the upper ball joints on my truck (2002 2500hd 2wd) anyone have any tips pointers for this type job.Thinking i'll need to but weight of truck on jack stand or second floor jack to prevent spring from pushing to ground once the upper ball joint is broken loose ?The rivets drill out or cut out tops of rivet with dremel tool, any easier methods for this ?Any suggestions appreciatedThanks in advance,Tony

Truck Specs: 2002 Dodge Ram 2500hd, Std Output 5 speed. Mods: BD-Diesel Flow-max Lift pump, BD-Diesel Exhaust Brake, AEM Brute Force HD air intake, Bully Dog Outlook with Performance Enhancement, Stock Straight Pipe. Recently my truck started intermittent miss at idle, and stumble during normal acceleration, under load / no load / from start.Truck has plenty of power, and good fuel mileage, Both conditions are random with no codes given, other than above exhibits no other issues.I've had issues with the bully dog outlook performance device in the past, causing stumble but goes away when I place it in stock mode. From what I've read on line in several places, it's been suggested that the computer on the vp44 might be starting to fail (ECM I think ?)Lift pump pressure is good. Any thoughts as to what might be going on (vp44,mpa, IAT)?Thanks in advance,Tony

They are brand new, I believe from BD Diesel 75 hp rated (not sure what the 75 hp means).

No new codes since replacing the vp44, my buddies friend cleared the codes prior to working on the truck, and of course did not write them down.

Buddy of mine has 1999 dodge truck, 5 speed 4x4. He replaced the vp44 & installed new injectors, the vp44 had failed, had that 16xx code, can't recall the exact code. The truck is hard starting, if it starts at all, if it does it idle's smooth but blows thick amounts of white smoke (i'm assuming lots of unburned diesel fuel) and the pedal is dead. White smoke does not go away.Several things I thought of vp44 installed wrong (timing key), injectors and/or connectors torqued wrong, over flow valve ???? I'm grasping at straws here, any suggestions appreciated.Thanks in advance.

I filled out the profile for the truck, I'm new to this forum, but believe I filled in the correct locations.On the lift pump my bad, bd is not bully dog, but BD-Diesel flow-max pump, my understating per manual it's rated at 15-18psi at 14vdc, flow is like 160+ gal.In terms of gauges, only what is displayed by the Bully Dog outllook pe, show boost and pyro.On the BD-Flowmax, setup the banjo fittings are replaced with I think 3/8 fuel hose, from pump to fuel / fliter bowl.Thanks,Tony

My truck a 2002 hd 2500 5 speed, threw the following codes today P PCU 1693, then P ECU 1689.Truck has been running great for 140000+ miles, I replaced the lift pump awhile back with flowmax from bd. It ran fine after the replacement no codes, and fixed the problem of the engine surging, when I first engage the clutch, had to fuel the engine up a little, even in first, but more present in 2nd. So i was thinking the stock lift pump was weak.I just added a Bully Dog Outlook with PE to the truck. After this I noticed the surging came back (when on a power level other than stock) especially when the engine cold, have to fuel engine up a little when engaging the clutch, or surges as I call it. When in stock mode, everything is ok.I realize this is not a forum for Bull dog support, being this is my first power enhancement gizmo, My questions are this:1) Is this normal after a power enhancment gizmo is installed ? I notice when the code(s) where thrown the bully dog power cycled, and yes the power connections are sold from what i can tell2) If the bully dog is messed up end of story, if not then any suggestions on diagnosing a P1689 code ?Thanks in advance,Tony

Buddy of mine has a 1999 2500 4x4 (I assume 1999 on the plate on the door says mfg date is 7/99).He was driving his truck working just fine, then it died suddenly at 70, now it will start runs real ruff, barley idles, and there is no response from the throttle (aka dead pedal).The check engine light is on, however the ignition key on/off 3 times does not display codes via the odometer, it does on my 2002 2500.My question does the 1999 display trouble codes via the odometer (digging on the internet some say it should some say it will not)?2nd any ideas / hints might be wrong with the truck ?I know codes are needed otherwise just chasing our tails but thought someone might have some initial thoughts. Truck is not drivable so going to say autozone to pull codes is out. Going to try and pick up a inexpensive code reader.Thanks in advance, Tony