tonyjsan

Instead of starting a new post on the P0253 code I'll ask here. I noticed this morning on my way to work check engine light on, pulled codes I have a P0253. Does this for sure mean VP44 is dying (Blue chip web site and others seem to say yep)? If so any wild guess as to how long in might last, this truck is my only source of transportation. Fuel pressure at idle 18, wot 15. In conjunction with the P0253 code the following symptoms have been happening for some time with no code(s) generated until today 1) Intermittent rough idle, but odd thing is happens only when running for a bit with ac on, when turn ac off idles ruff, turn ac back on or turn engine off restart idle is fine, odd 2) I notice this summer I'm not generating the boost I use to and loosing power on the high end, I notice this pulling RV uphill this summer, I'm not getting past 30 boost (with edge on 4, I keep on 4 all time, 5 seems to just fuel to much). Lost speed going up a hill, normally I can gain or maintain with no issues. I thought this a boost leak, could this be another sign VP44 dying. As final note the VP44 has about 170k miles on it, was replaced under warranty around 60k. I am using the BD Diesel Stealth Cover for VP44 Injector Pump, could that cause an issue (i'm thinking no). Also in this post there was mention of an alternator, causing P0253, did I understand that correctly? Alternator was replaced 2-3 years ago, should I have alternator tested? Thanks in advance.

Appears my odbii connector is going bad, loose connection. When I connect my BT odbii device if I push it in one direction it might work for a bit then stop (meaning all leds go out etc.), I've tried 3 odbii devices all do the same thing, feel it's not my BT odb ii devices. Couple questions 1) Has anyone replaced there odb ii connector, if so any tips (from what I've read I can move wires to new connector similar to the old rs-232 serial) 2) I found a wire diagram of the odb ii posted in another forum by mopar1973man, I'm assuming that since odb ii a standard of sorts, wiring is universal but, diagram shows Fuse 12 inside cab of truck left of dash, is for odb ii power, this correct ? Thanks in advance

I just recently went threw something similar to what you are experiencing, there is a thread somewhere I started about my issues. All my problems started with the install of a SB DD clutch (plus having 2 sets of SB hydro's fail within a year, naturally after the 90 warranty). Basically I had hard to ****, blocking etc. pick a term. I complained, over a period of 1.5 years, to the place that installed the SB DD clutch, they told me it was normal, well it's not normal. I called SB, talked to a Peter, he made it all good, I was sent a brand new Single Disk SB 13" as I recall. Once the SB single disc installed, problems gone, aside from 3rd gear being fussy at times, but I also know 3rd gear synchro getting weak (I have 225,000 miles on nv4500). I'm still not sure what was wrong, if the SB DD was installed wrong, was defective etc. I do recall reading somewhere, that SB had a batch of bad SB DD clutch's, in which for whatever reasons they where not releasing correctly. One final note Peter did seem to hint that if using DD it's recommended to upgrade input shaft to the 1.375, and I believe the SB hydro may be beginning to fail again, I will not be getting another SB hydro for sure. I will stay with Single Disc, whenever current clutch needs replacement.

Finally had the clutch south bend sent me installed, there heavy duty single disk. Shifting and everything back to normal, not sure what the deal was with the dual disk but something was not right. Thanks again for all the responses. Now on to the next project.

WOW!!! I just got off the phone with Peter, we talked at length in regards to the issues I'm having,he is willing to swap the DD clutch for a heavy duty single disc, based on the mods on my truck says a single disk would be fine. He also felt some of my issues might be a result of worn trans, if I do get a re-man trans, and the DD does not work well, peter will still swap out the DD for a single Now to figure out what path to take I have to say wow, awesome support. Thanks for the tip on talking with Peter.

I dealt with the local tran shop that ordered and installed the clutch, they insisted there was nothing wrong with the install, I"ve not contacted SB directly as I figured the tran shop could So I finally today took it to another local tran shop, going to go to another tran shop in next few days to see what others think. Many vendors today will not talk direct to the customer

I continue to have issues with clutch & maybe tran etc., I finally took it to local tran shop, they agreed something wrong with clutch, something is not disengaging. They told me perhaps the pilot bearing. So I seem to back to square one as they say. My question to everyone is for those that have the manual what clutch, have you used or would recommend Single Disc, Dual Disc, I know valair is rated good, South Bend I'll never use again, could I just use a stock clutch, considering the mods I have. My main goal has always been to pull a 10k or 15k fiver, the 10k is pulled mainly. Thanks Tony

The hydraulics where replace in Spring 2014. I use to spend summer in Missoula MT

Thanks for the information, I really like what highGear has to offer, however I'm not a big fan of ebay. I did find 2 other places in texas, in San antonio http://www.allstategear.com/and Dallas / Fort Worth http://www.standardtransmission.com/index.html I will look into as well. When time comes I'll get from one of the three. A local wrench should be able to make the swap, but the wrench is probably ok it's the local i'm concerned with lol. I need get this fixed soon, driving my truck now is not fun Thanks for the input

Thanks for the tips, I'm tending lean towards time to have the nv4500 pulled and checked, it does have 211,000 miles on the transmission. I'm thinking even I changed to a different clutch with syncro being weak I'll save issue. Finding someone where I live, who I can trust to do the work is another story. So if anyone that is on this forum, knows of a good shop to do this kinda of work in around south texas area San Antonio, Houston, Corpus Christi area? I located in deep south texas, South Padre Island area I've found no locals who I can trust to do this work, I don't have access to tools to do this job.

Aside from a kicked error code, are there other ways to test the battery temp sensor, ohm readings etc. ?

About a year ago I had the clutch replaced, went with a South Bend DD, I pull a 14k 5er, so this is the clutch I was advised to get. In retrospect, not sure I'd ever get another south bend, clutch is so dam temperamental, and seems to really suck when the humidity is high, lots chattering. This leads me to the main question, since this clutch was installed shifting gears when moving there is noticeable "resistance", it's worst trying to get into 3rd gear, if one pushes on the stick to hard it will grind bad (did not have this problem with stock clutch, but I did notice with stock clutch, that 3rd gear would grind once in a blue moon, I just figured I had screwed up the shift). The time it takes to get into 3rd gear is enough for someone to crawl up my rear, during city driving, I can not dart into traffic or if I need a quick maneuver of speed / power from 2nd to 3rd is impossible, as can't get into 3rd gear in time. When moving 4th & 5th gear are ok. When at a complete stop engine running, 2nd is hard to get into, I have to hit 4th, then 2nd. One more odd item sometimes when shifting while moving, if I goose the engine just as I push the stick into a given gear, at the same time I feel the "resistance" seems like the gear is "sucked" in, hope that makes since. Synchros going out ? rebuild time ? New tranny ? It does have 210,000+ miles. Thanks

Well it's been months since this project was sort of completed, lol. Thought I'd share the few additional things I discovered as I did this. I did take it to an ac shop and they charged it to factory specs, back in June. I still have the poor cooling problem (when idling outlet temp climbs to 60+) when freaking hot 90+ degrees in the South Texas sun, when not 90+ plus works great, so at this point I'm feeling like 98% it's a air flow issue over the condenser, before summer 2015 gets here going to pull the radiator and intercooler take em to a shop to be cleaned. Also going to replace the clutch fan with one from the dealer, so far I've been threw 2 of them, hayden first one I took back as it failed within a month of install. Anyone know where I can get a good high quality clutch fan ? One other thing, when idling or stop and go traffic (when 90+) if I turn the fan down to lo or say 2nd fan speed setting, it will maintain cooling. If not 90+ works just fine. In a previous post in this thread I posted that, I had lot of difficulty getting the liquid line to separate and re-install as well, I found out that to get enough clearance I had to remove a bracket that was designed to hole the stock air cleaners, air opening. Once this bracket was removed, install and re-install was a breeze.

Well after changing out the evaporator, heater cored checking hvac box. I still have an ac that is unable to cool when temps get above low 90s, below low 90s works fine. At this point everything in the ac system is new. The symptoms, if travelng at high ways speeds with ambient temps above low 90's some cooling occurs much better now evaporator is replaced. If driving in town ambient tempe above low 90's poor cooling vent air is 60 at best, in time the comprssor will kick out to very high, high preassure i'd say 450-500, then once preasure drops down compressor kicks back in and you can tell it's straining to start. In ambient temps above low 90's in stop and go traffice ac is not usable at all due to the compresor cycyling and and high side preasure being so high. Engine does not overheat at all, Assuming the new ac parts are not failed or I screwed somehting up, could the intercooler and radiator be dirty enough to cause poor airflow over condensor, but the engine still cools okay. Has anyone hooked a secondary fan to the ac condensor if so how is it working ? When the fan clutch kicks in (which is also now), while in stop go traffice etc, seems like the cooling starts to want to work. Open to suggestions.

Evaporator plugged bad and leak

Evaporator plugged bad and leak

Decided to replace evaporator. Run into problem ac lines at accumulator refuse to come apart 3 hours no luck Last time they came off easy. Yes using the cheap *** plastic tool. Any suggestions? Fixing to get the dremel out cut the freaking things off

What is the best way to check the blend door ? This is the blend door that is controled by the tempurature knob. ?

I'm rereading all the tips in this thread as I have missed something somewhere. I notice the other day that the suction line was obviously cold all the way to the compressor as I could see it sweating a lot "beer can cold". If I understand this corretly this indicates the evaportor has restricted airflow or plugged from dirt etc. What other effects would a dirty plugged evaporator have on the ac system ? Is it also possiable for a condensor to have no leaks fins in good shape but due to age the condensors ability to give up heat degrades causing poor ac performance ?

I did replace the entire liquid line as its called. I should have clarified that to replace the orrifce required replacing the entire line, on other auto ac systems I've worked on the orifice tube only had to be replaced, that is the orifice tube was not imbedded within the line, once the line is removed the orifice tube comes out then insert new orifice tube reuse existing line. Auto zone sells a kit which allows one to make the orifice tube replaceable without changing liquid line, kit is 20.00 the orifice tube is 3.00. Basically the you cut out the old orifice install the kit. I replaced the whole liquid line easier lol

The condensor fins are in good shape a few areas where they are bent, i'd sa maybe 1-2% of the condensor surface area is bent. Visual insection shows no dirt etc, front of condensor is gray / dulled aluminum look the back is bright new aluminum look. I put the gagues back on this morning outside temp 84 humidiy 50-70%, with fan clutch engage, low side pulled down to 30-35 high to 180-200. I rev rpms to 1000-1200 all look good. After the fan clutch disengaged I reved to 1000-1200, ok for a little bit then the high side climbed to over 350, and low side climbed as well. Shut ac off after it hit 400 and still climbing at idle. Then after system equalized started ac, low pulled down ok and high climbed ok at first, then high went past 350, this time I litly sprayed condenser with water of course high side dropped and low side. Not sure if the findings above mean anything or not. I wanted to see if there was airflow across the condenser, a klenix tissue was sucked tight to the condensor, again not sure if that means air flow good / bad. Fan clutch is brand new. is it possiable for a condensor to loose ability to give up heat as it ages ? That is the behaviour when my ac system was working. On mine the oriface tube is a pain, it's by designe not replacable, I have to cut out the old oriffice, install a orrice repair kit basically a small piece metal with compressionn fittings inserted where oriffice tube was installed

I'd like to ask for some help again, after all the repairs descriped in a previous post, I still have the same issue, if anything the ac is now worse than before. Let me recap all the work done over month or so. Replace dryer, liquid line, suction line, flushed evaporator and condensor with ac flush. evacuate and charged system would cool to 65-60 in town 45 on highway. Before charging I let system set for 1-2 hours vaccum held at 30in. With the poor cooling at higher ambient temps, I decided to change the compressor out (seemed like low side not sucking enough). Evacuate charged, poor cooling, took it to the dealer they checked charged said I overcharged it they brought it to specs, still has same issue cools to 75-60 in town, highway a bit better. again i let system hold vaccum for hour or so held at 30inches. I did not change the dryer when installing the new compressor, seems to me for that short time would not effect dryer. So any ideas whats wrong ?? Is there a leak ? Evaporter plugged meaning restriced air flow over evap, is there away to test for restricted airflow ?, condensor is clean leak there ? Does the system not leaking vaccum mean no leak for sure ? Perhaps time to take to the dealer but they are so spendy Thanks in advance Tony

Finally got around to working on the ac. Decided not to mess with evaporator for now. AC system seems to be working good 43-45 ambient temp of 80, low humidity, real test will be as it get hotter and more humidity. I did run into a few gotchas, the orfice tube I found is not replacable (deigned to not be replacable), so I just replaced the entire liquid line, the suction / discharge line was replaced as well, this was a dealer only item and was spendy, local auto stores did not carry but found out after ordeing that I can get it from napa, or online. Removed the compressor the oil that came out was not clear a strange redish to orange color, reminded me of leak locate stuff if it was the dealer added that, I dumped all the oil then added some drained, until oil came out clear. Flushed the evaporator and condensor. During flushing the evaporator seemed to build up a little preasure beforre all the ac flush fluid came out. Then of course but it all back together. I did have one question label under truck says something like 1.8xx lbs freon, which if I did the math correct is 30oz, I added 3 12oz cans, the extra 6oz will not overcharge, at this point I did not worry about it as low/high side preasures and temp from center vent within specs. Second since I added 7 oz of oil, direct to compressor, should I have added an oil charge like 2oz can ? I did not. one final thought before doing all this the high preassure side was jumping to 450+ at 2k rpms or less so blocked for sure Thanks everyone for the help

lol yech !!!!!!!!!!! Yep drain tube I believe is ok as there is a nice puddle of water when I stop the truck turn off engine.

it was starting out say 55, as ambient temp goes up air coming out gets warmer. Today it seems fine (45 degree air out vent) but again it's 80 out 25% humidity, I need for the south texas heat to crank up again, cold front this late is rare. I do believe I am for sure going to do the flush and change out the orifice tube and r/d, what I'm debating is to remove the hvac box, aside from ac, i believe my heater core might have a small leak of some sort, as I can smell anti-freeze via vents when temp knob on full hot. It's been that way for awhile, and I've not notice any major coolant loss.