branumhawk

Hey John, I see you got an answer on that post, but here is a link to the installation if you would like to see it. Some folks don't remove the main fuel screw and hold the lever back with a piece of wire to position the top of pump back on then pull it out. I found it much easier to back it off to flush and return the main fuel screw to the "marked" previous position. It was this main fuel screw I backed out a little to lessen smoke under full throttle. Here's the link http://www.dens-site.net/Dodge_CTD/Governor_Spring/

After installing 366 spring myself yesterday I had a bit of trouble priming things up. I wore out my trigger finger trying to get a bump of fuel up to the bleed screw. Called it quits at dinner and sometime last night ran across a post by someone, somewhere about priming system with a weed killer spray bottle. I would like to give them credit but can remember who it was. Anyway, before wearing out another finger I tried it. I had some injector lines from previous pump swap on my 24v so I cut one end off and used a wire tie to hold it in the tube from a 10 dollar weed sprayer. Disconnected banjo bolt at input side of filter and bolted my chopped off end up. Made sure I had 12v going to shutoff gizmo and gave the sprayer a couple pumps till I felt pressure. Got in and turned it over a few and had diesel coming out injectors. Pumped a few more till resistance and tightened up cracked injectors. Fired right up and ran off my weed sprayer for half a minute then shut it down. Replaced lift pump feed line and started it back up and it ran great all day. Five minutes it was cooking.366 spring made a big difference and I backed the fuel screw out just a little as I got a little optimistic the first go round and now I am running clean unless I really lay on it then it clouds up. The sprayer saved me a bunch of aggravation. That prime lever wore me out and I made sure it was on the cam lobe, dont know why it wasn't working any faster. Anyway, if you find yourself looking for fuel at the injectors of your 1st gen this worked great for me.

Well, Doin the rear brakes tomorrow and if my partner has a nv4500 to rebuild I will go that route. If not I will redo the getrag and keep it overfull, whatever is going to be available and will find out tomorrow. Turned up the fuel screw two turn, star adjuster 2 and 2 on the smoke screw and rotated the pin. It gave me some umph but a little smokey and will try a custom fuel pin and back off the smoke screw a bit. Havin some fun with it for sure. That getrag is givin me issues and will be resolved shortly.

Thanks man, donor axe is real tight and bearings and gears show little wear. When I put the leaf springs in the front I will stick this rear axle in at the same time while I got it up. 2 miles a gallon adds up after a bit, was hoping it would be more but rebuilding the front 60's and knowing I got good one for the rear will save me a little coin not having to do the rear. I posted a shot of the new skin(got the 2wd emblems on the fender)still. You can see the color difference on the orange stripe on the cab. Kept the 4wd emblems, maybe when I paint it I will stick them back on. - - - Updated - - - I made some shackles this moring and put them on to level the truck, it was almost sitting on the stops anyway with the weight of the engine, heavy bumper and winch. I extended the bolt holes center to center by 3 inches. I may add a leaf later, but I needed to end the tire scratching and level it out some. It is still an inch lower in the front which is fine and no more noise and didnt hit my wallet too hard either. I listed a picture of the installed shackles and a picture before and after to see the difference. Tossed up a pic of my 24 valve for grins. 159,000 miles and as nice a 99 as I have seen in and out. Bhawk

Got all my body parts moved, new instrument cluster and doors that shut right and all kinds of stuff. Getting 17mpg with 4.10 gears with 3.15 tires and have a 3.5 I could put in the rear and update gear sets in the front. What would be reasonable to expect in mileage improvement and would it be worth my while. Bearings look good in the donor axle, checked them when I pulled the emergency brake cables out. My fuel guage wanders a bit but I heard adding another ground to the circut board to the body will fix that. Apparently bad ground issues affect the cluster guages a bit. Tires rub a little up front and it is 4 inches lower in the front. They have a 4 inch lift replacement leaf set that looks like it would be the ticket for around 190 each. The back axle has a block that must be 8 inches high but I like the height in the rear and would prefer to raise the front. I will put up some more pics as it does look much better with straighter tin.bhawk.

I think I would step aside from that beast.

I was fixing a computer and reconfiguring some IP securty cameras at my buddy's salvage yard today and got offered a 91 dodge cummins truck exactly the same color as mine almost (less motor and tranny and seat, long gone) in exchange for my work there this morning. The passenger door has a small crease in it due to forklift, but the rest is in extremely good condition and was owned by a mechanic who had 3 too many DUI's. Body and even the paint is excellent with a little rust only on top of cab. I am guessing the rear axles are the same, other than the gear ratio. I am not sure what all I can use but I have another aspect to my project picking clean the parts from one that are better than what I got. Believe it or not the parts truck has some screwy numbers according to this vin decoder site http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/specs/VIN_decode-pre94.htm Its not supposed to have the diesel option. They must have screwed up a few of them. Parts truck is a 91 and I am going to use bed, doors, front fenders and maybe hood. Being I probably wont paint it soon, I might leave the one I have on it for now. Front clip is perfect on this truck too. Its a two tone paint and will look good. Pulled out and stored all interior parts(too bad seat was taken) truck only has 73000 miles on it and I even pulled carpet to go back original in mine. I believe I have 4.10 gears and I am thinking about putting parts truck rear axle and a matching gear set up front for better mileage. Here the pics, boring thread without em. More I learn about these the more I realize I have a Heinz 57. Intercooled motors came out in 91.5, steering wheel in it appears to be 93. Whatever the hell it is I like it, got the doors and fenders moved over today along with wheel well on one side that was banged up. Interior is pulled out. Start on bed tomorrow and pulling the windnshield and back glass out. Gonna leave the paint alone except for hood and a spot on one fender. Both hoods are great condition, just both need paint bad. Once I put that good windshield in a nice hood will be nice. Parts truck is two tone so I will pick up that darker gray paint to shoot the hood. bhawk

Lots of riders it looks like. My first was a bridgstone 90 and then a BSA victor I rode enduros with up in Michigan. Several of the Yamaha DT-1s & RT-1s doing motocross before you could buy one out the box. Had a cool little 67 Suzuki X6 Hustler 250 6 spd. Not near enough room to list em all, being I used to buy auction bikes and resell them and had hundreds. I currently have 98 Intruder that I got tagged on a couple weeks back while sitting at a light. Got a ratbike KZ-1000 and GS-1000 sz Katana one of 3500 made waiting to be restored. Most fun was flat tracking with a Montesa capra 250 at county fairs when I was a kid. Its all good, still riding at 60 just dont mix the beer and two wheels anymore as parts of my body are crooked from past mistakes. I have posted a few pics of the bikes I have restored or built. Also a pic of the rear fender from my love tap a few weeks back.

Hey,I just bought a 88 dodge cummins truck. Most of what I see online pertains to 89 to 93 as the production years. I do find some suppliers that list 88 to 93 and references to 88's here. My questions is my truck is titled an 88, anyone know how many were made in 88 or was a cutoff period where they were putting cummins in 88 trucks after a certain month. Just curious as I dont see many 88 dodge cummins trucks for sale anywhere. Thanks for any information as I would like to know a little more about the history of what I got.Thanks,bhawk

Thanks for the link, exactly what I was looking for to attempt diagnoses. Plans are to install a fass pump soon, I didnt even want to drive it until I got the fuel pressure guage installed for peace of mind. Friend of mine has same year truck with fass pump, edge with attitude he keeps cranked up that has 340,000 miles without a hiccup. First thing he told me was change the lift pump. Hope its a connection issue and not a bad ECM of course, but it nice knowing where to look. Appreciate it greatly.bhawk

Hey guys,I had a similar problem with a dead pedal just starting the truck in the driveway 99 24valve 3500. I disconnected the battery and the APPS reset did the trick and I have not had another problem. The check engine light was on so stopped by autozone and it pulled a companion code 1689 and something about no TDC detected? Light went and truck has run flawlessly since for about 2 mos. since it occured. Installed a fuel pressure guage and it hangs around 8 to 10 if I am getting on it a bit, 15+ when I back off and roll. Not sure if I still have a problem or not, but it sure runs good.Fired up about picking up 1st gen today. Good body, no rust 5 spd 4wd w250. Its titled an 88 and I been lurking around already to learn from all the info here. Thanks to everyone and have a good one.