Tambs

Amen to that. They were horrible instructions. So vague. Thanks for the link.

Thanks for the heads up. Pacbrake is awfully proud of their stuff. I’m currently camping but once I get home I’ll post the instruction sheet. The switch gets mounted to a stud on the firewall inside the cab. The switch is adjusted to close when the throttle is released. It is wired into the on/off switch, and a wire to the solenoid relay. I’m thinking I’m going to have to abandon the ECM activation method (pin 20 per Pacbrake’s instructions) and go with the ECM bypass (throttle) switch. I’ll probably add a clutch switch as well so that when either pedal is depressed the brake is not activated.

Solenoid is controlled by a relay. Relay is controlled by sensing voltage from Pin 20 (per Pacbrake instructions). And yes, the brake relies on idle being sensed before activating (or idle throttle position anyway). Pacbrake instructions detail this as the method of operation. For this method of install anyway. They offer an ECM bypass switch that runs off of a micro switch set to close when the throttle returns to idle (similar to how engine brakes in semi trucks are switched on the throttle pedal and clutch pedal). I have one of these switches but wasn’t going to install it yet. Probably going to have to since Pin 20 is dead. Yep, reservoir is installed, as is the quick connect for filling tires, etc. All that part works fine. It’s the ecm that isn’t sending the signal to pin 20. 1. I’ve done the TPS reset as shown in Mike’s YT video. Other than that I’m not sure yet what else to do to verify the TPS sensor is working. 2. Yes, I’ve triple-checked that the pin is seated into socket 20. 3. Possibly, but hopefully not. 🥴 I have the oil for the brake but that isn’t the issue. When I manually apply voltage to the solenoid it activates and air is supplied to the brake cylinder, and then the brake butterfly closes.

Resetting the TPS had no effect on Pin 20, and it is still dead at idle.

I installed a Pacbrake C44064 inline exhaust brake and it works great. Except for the brake, that is. Compressor works as it’s supposed to, supplying air to the quick-connect and Packbrake air tank. When I flip the switch on the shifter mounted brake switch the solenoid on the compressor does not supply air to the brake. The solenoid on the compressor that supplies air to the brake cylinder does cycle when I apply 12V to it direct from the battery via a jumper wire, so I checked for voltage to ground coming from Pin 20 on the ECM while the truck was running at idle. No voltage was present. Any ideas why this pin isn’t energized at idle? I’m in the midst of resetting the TPS per Mike’s YT video, so maybe that might help. Will update after the reset is done. Any ideas?

Yeah, that price doesn’t include the core. Nor does the Costco price. Manufacturing is down across the board. Tried buying tools lately? Almost everything I’ve tried finding is ‘out of stock’. Building material prices are off the charts. Manufacturing has been throttled into near non-existence over the last year, and what’s left is hugely expensive and/or from China. Laws of supply and demand. Demand is currently high, supplies are low, so prices are high. Tough for me to sit on the sidelines waiting for stock to go back up and prices to come down when I need the batteries now. Any other opinions on Costco’s Interstate batteries?

http://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-Maxx-Lead-Acid-Automotive-Battery-Group-Size-27-12-Volt-810-CCA/28275658

Not to bring up an old thread, but this seems to be the place for battery discussions. Someone mentioned Costco’s interstate batteries weren’t all that great on quality. This still hold true? Going to pick up a couple this weekend and theirs are $93 each while Wally World’s EverStart battery is $120. Both are 810 CCA with a 3-year warranty. If the consensus is that the differences are negligible, then I’d just as soon keep the extra $54 in my pocket.

This kit should do the trick shouldn’t it? Even if the female plug doesn’t mate with the OE plug I can lop it off pretty quick like you suggested and slap the new male plug on. Not sure of the OE wire size however. This Kit is good for 14-16 gauge wire.

It seems one of the pics tmaxxs10 posted shows the part number of the plug. I just didn’t zoom in enough to see it with my phone. On my iPad it was easy to see. Thanks to everyone for replying! Tom

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but I’m installing a FASS 165 and wondering if anyone knows the part number for this plug...

Is this damage something that can be inspected for when the tubes are out, or can one not see the problem? Those photos are section cuts through a crossover tube are they not?

Thanks for the replies everyone. Sounds like most are reusing their tubes after ensuring they are clean and smooth, and using due care when re-assembling to make sure they are aligned with the injector. 👍🏻🍻

Already bought the Quad from you! 😁 Just haven’t installed it yet. I edited my sig to show it being in the inventory. Was looking at TJ’s IG account (#1badvp44) and looking into his tuning service. But that’s down the road after I spend a bunch of time reading up on custom tuning here first. May be able to get the tunes I need here and be able to educate myself to do my own tuning. Probably sell the Smarty. Haven’t even taken it out of the box yet except to make sure it was in there.

I will be installing new injectors soon and I’ve read conflicting info regarding whether crossover tubes should be replaced at the same time. Proponents (including @dieselautopower) of changing them out say the risk of fuel leaks is much less if they are changed out. Those who say changing them is not necessary advise that if they are correctly installed and aligned with the injector, and have a properly installed o-ring, leak potential is minimal. What is the prevailing opinion here regarding changing the feed tubes? If I change them out, is there any reason to go with anything other than these? https://www.dieselautopower.com/bosch-cross-over-fuel-connector-tube-set-of-6-f00zr20002x6. There is a plethora of brands out there but I’m uncertain what may work best for my application. I don’t want the engine to lope, and prefer a smooth and quiet idle, so I gather I should avoid high flow type or oversized tubes. Could my 7x0.009 DAP VCO injectors even make use of a high flow crossover tube in any event? Thanks and Cheers! Tom.

Just unloaded the camper at Newberry National Volcanic Monument south of Bend, Oregon last summer.

Is there a direct correlation between boost and drive pressures? Can one infer a certain drive pressure from the amount of boost seen? Or is the amount of drive pressure not accurately predictable from boost? If not, then it’s probably a good idea to throw a drive pressure gauge on at least temporarily to see what my pressures are running? Or would you say it should be monitored continuously (permanent installation)? Is the exhaust manifold the best place to measure drive pressure, or is there a better location to put the sensor? For an exhaust manifold pressure gauge installation, I’ve read where soot/carbon can cause problems for this pressure reading, and that some install a filter canister to capture this debris. I would guess that adding a filter would be preferable to a clogged line and gauge. Thanks for the advice Mike!

Getting set to start upgrading my ‘01, including 100hp injectors, head studs, turbo, FASS, clutch, exhaust, exhaust brake, Quad, and gauges. At what point should I consider upgrading to heavier valve springs? I’m targeting around 450-475 whp with the changes I’m making, but at what point should the stock valve springs be updated? Hope everyone had a very Merry Christmas!

Thank you. It seems a lot of the members are in or around the PNW.

All right, I’ll mull it over a bit and place an order this evening when I get home from work. Assuming the sales on these items don’t end before then anyway! Thanks fellas! Appreciate the help!

Thanks for the reply. 550hp is about 100hp above my target. Would the GX-E 57/65/12 T3 be a better selection for 450 hp? Considering spool time, EGT’s, etc? If I paired the 57/65 with 100hp injectors and the Quad would that be a good recipe for 450 considering my intended use? If not, what might you recommend in terms of a turbo/injectors for hitting that range? I already have the Smarty, but an upgrade to the Quad isn’t outside the realm of possibilities. Definitely going to get a clutch (Valair Dual Disc Quiet Organic rated @ 550hp seems the likely candidate?) and studs, but probably looking at the ARP247-2402 studs rather than the L-19’s (especially if the Quad cost is factored in).

Thanks Ray. Going to give them a call tomorrow. I have an email in to them as well, but I think they’ve been closed for the holiday. Tom

Thanks John. That would explain the lack of responses. I knew it wasn’t because of a lack of members as I’ve lurked long enough to know there are many active participants. 😄 It sounds like our driving styles are quite similar. Any thoughts on the turbo and injectors I’m looking at? I’m wanting to only have to make the one turbo/injector purchase and I’d like to get a balanced setup right out of the gate. A lot of the driving I do is in the mountains of the Pacific NW, and EGT’s are my biggest concern.

Did everyone take the Thanksgiving weekend off? I know I’m asking questions that are frequently asked , and I apologize for that. I have read many threads of a similar nature on this, as well as other forums, but it seems like many of the threads I’ve found have been somewhat aged and possibly no longer relevant due to advances in technology and equipment. Much of what I’ve found has also seemed conflicting. For example, I’ve been advised by vendors that 50hp injectors would be sufficient, along with a turbo (ATS 3000 or Fleece Cheetah), intake, 4" exhaust, and tuner to hit my goal of 450hp +/-. That doesn’t seem possible given my forum research on this forum and others (cumminsforum, among others), and many recommend 100-150hp injectors to reach this hp range. Some sources have said the Hx35 is sufficient for these higher hp injectors, while others say EGT’s will be a concern with the stock turbo. Based on what I’ve read thus far, I've been looking at DAP’s Screaming Eagle GX-E 57/65/12 T3 paired with anywhere from 75-125hp DAP injectors to go with the exhaust, intake, and tuner I already have. Any opinions on this turbo/injector setup, or on one that might be better for my application/use/hp goal?

Thanks Mike. I started a thread in the Reliability/ Performance section and added some details about how I use the rig as well as how it’s currently set up. I’ve already purchased some of the items you mentioned (FASS 165, 4" exhaust, BHAF, gauges), but haven’t installed them yet. A couple of online vendors suggested an ATS Aurora 3000 turbo, or a Fleece Cheetah turbo and 50 or 75hp injectors along with the Smarty S-03. Not sure these would get me to the mid-400 hp range though, and given that there are a dizzying array of turbo and injector possibilities, I wanted to get a second opinion from you all.