randy4140

Thanks to all of you for your helpful replies, To answer some questions brought up regarding this truck. It is a 95, 12 valve motor, someone put 24 valve flags on the fenders.I brought the truck into my shop and pulled the fan, rad belt, timing cover, inspected the cracked area. It was KDP for positive.....I degreased the motor and engine bay first then used a rotary burr to vee out the cracked area 1/3 the depth of the crack, and above and below the crack was cleaned of any debris with the rotary burr lightly. I then cleaned out the crack area with brakleen spray to remove any residual oil.I then mixed up a batch of J&B weld and forced it into the crack area, and troweled the rest over and around the crack and let it sit over night. reinstalled the cover and all the rest , seems to be fine, I guess time will tell for sure,I think I will take my 2000 apart and perform the PM fix before mine turns out the same..............

We pulled the trans and my son who is a GM Mechanic took it into the Dodge dealer who is affiliated with his dealership, (same owner) His buddy took it apart and inspected everything, he said that the clutch packs were wore out and everything was ok. They are going to put in a seal kit ect and I should have it back 1st of the week.....YEAH!! I HOPE?????

Johnfak, Where did you get the cooler you are using, what brand ect. Randy

All of the linkages appear fine, I cleaned the screens on the solenoids, there was a little debris on them. just kind of did a general inspection visually. There were no broken pieces in the pan. The band adjusters seemed a little loose but??? I am beginning to suspect a valve body issue, or internal leakage? Aren't there any trans techs on this forum? Help

Hey all, I have a 2000 CTD 2WD.I returned from a canoeing trip yesterday with no issues thru the trip at all, turned around in my drive and tried to back up to the garage and the truck wouldn't back up....The trans was like stuck in drive. I put it in Neutral and it still crept forward. Put it in reverse and it backed up like the brakes were on.... any ideas?How do I know if the trans is a 46RH or a 47RH.Could it be possible for the TC lockup to be stuck on? just an idea.I drained the pan and pulled it, initial inspection shows no visible issues, some debris on the magnet, no shavings ectThe VIN # is IB7KC2363YJI78907 If that helps to I D the trans

Guys, I will have to check the year of the truck, it is my sister in laws truck, not mine. I was under the impression that it was a 96, but now???When I have it at my shop 1st of the week I will check it out and post then. ThanksNow I have an issue with my truck, 2000 CTD I just returned from a canoeing trip into Ontario, CA. I drive 1200 miles no issue, pull into the drive and turn around out back, go to back the trailer into the garage and it seems as though the trans is stuck in drive....in neutral the truck still creeps ahead, put it in reverse and it will hardly back up, still wants to go ahead...what the hell????? IdeasI guess it's better that it happened at home but????

I really don't know....but on the side of the fender, and on the valve cover it says 24V...but it different from my 2000 24V motor, must be some transition year or???Just know that the bloody thing is busted and bleedin and needs to be fixed...so here we go I guess.I just changed the VP on my 2000 a couple weeks ago

Many thanks, I was afraid it might have been...... the KDP.....I stand corrected actually the motor has 420.000 miles on herRichie...Do you have a "cover" for the case, or the case itselfIf in fact the dowel has come out and is "lost" does this cause concern??? Do we need the dowel pin there or was it just to align the case to the block?I would presume the case is cast aluminum, can it be tig'dThere is no pressure there in the case area, what about an epoxy or???

I have a 96-24 valve motor, it has 300,00 miles on it and still runs great....but yesterday she started throwing oil out and over EVERYTHING....The timing cover is "cracked" they say the motor needs to come out to repair it???? $2700.00......don't sound right to me.Have any of you changed or repaired the timing cover on this motor?What could cause this condition?How bad of a job is it to change / repair?Where could I get a replacement cover?Is the timing cover on this motor steel or plasticMany thanks as always for your help. Randy

She ran rough as heck for about 5-6 minutes then smoothed right out, running sweet as it ever did, and mileage seems up a bit also.

Well fellers, I got around to installing my VP on Sunday morning, It really went pretty smooth all things considered.The whole job took me about 5 hrs to complete, but I also removed the radiator and shroud ect and de-greased and power washed all of that due to other posts about how dirty it gets in between the rad and the inter cooler, mine was pretty dirty!!I also washed down the front of the engine and the engine bay before disassembly, I don't like to work on anything when it's dirty, makes the job go faster in the long run I think!The only thing I wished I had seen earlier was the suggestion to possibly change the cam position sensor while the pump is out......I am not sure how often these fail but it looks like a lot easier job when the pump is out than if it fails later.Please, all of you accept my heartfelt thanks for all of your advice during this past endeavor...".CHFS".....Cummin's Heart Failure SyndromeCummin's better than Strokin any day

Well, I finally got my VP44 today, thought it would never get here.......wish me luck with the install.... Randy

Well I just ordered my new VP44........ouch $$$I just have to wait for it now and then install it. Did all of the check that were suggested by everyone...again Many Thanks to all of you. You need to know that you are all a very valuable resource to all of us that are.....not quite as knowledgeable about the CTD, and it's "quirks" Randy

Where do you get the starter contacts from, who,s Larry

LiveOak, Yes I do have the Fass, replacement pump for the stock transfer pump/OEM mountingsI used the higher pressure spring when I installed it......do you suppose that the higher pressure caused my VP failure?? I thought I had heard that it wouldn't hurt anything just a harder start occasionally. O-#%I have printed out the BLue Chip Information and will perform these checks tonight.....but I think I already know what the findings will be.......damn!

Here is the truck info2000 CTD 2 WD Automatic transVIN# IB7KC2363YJ178907Engine # 56654198Mod 215So with my "lite mods" listed above should I stick with the stock pump....my thought is yesAs always your comments are welcome, and Thanks R

Mike, Diesel auto power was the least expensive so far, I have a larger air intake, 5"exhaust, Bully dog programmer. Would it behoove me to upgrade the injectors? if so which size would work best with the stock VP44. I think my year is 235 hp stock??? or is the 215 hp.Is the HO pump approved for my year with the upgrades I have or should I stick with the stock pump. Lots of questions I know but don't want to make a $$mistake. Thanks Randy

Where is the best place $$$ to get a new pump, what can I expect to pay?.....ouch

Well here is more info to digest, and thanks for all of your replies so far.Ok here goes, I did the key diagnosis all I got was the companion code / odometerI went to our local Auto-Zone and got the Actron OBII reader, I got a 1688 and a 1689 code with both pending. I cleared the codes and checked again and got 1688, (ZP44 Electronic failure). What does this mean? Is my VP44 dead or is there a repair I can make.I also checked fuel pressure and have 28 psi with my Fass pump.Also I have a full tank of fuelThanks again for your response/help. Randy

Well today I had made a stop at the local fast food place for lunch...a mistake I guess. I came out and started the truck and she idled for a couple minutes..gave a shudder and shut down..no re start. Will crank but no start. I replaced the transfer pump w/fass a year ago. Acts like she's not getting fuel. What is in the tank on these? just a fuel gauge and fuel pick up? The transfer pump is running but I am wondering about the "draw straw" that I have heard about. Do they go bad, break off, What should my next step be? Thanks in advance. Randy

I have a 2000 CTD 2WD and have had problems with the pressure line leading from the trans to the rt side of the motor, to what seems like a water to oil heat exchanger, the lines then go to the cooler and back to the trans. The problem is at the flange of the line where it attaches to the "exchanger" fitting. I have had 2 of these lines crack in the same place. Has anyone else experienced this and how did you fix it permanently?

Both Tran's are Automatic. I didn't know if the gas tran's would mount to the CTD being as the gas motor/trans was a 4wd. Ideally I would like to end up with a 4wd CTD truck

I am looking at a 2000 2500 4 WD w/gas motor.I have a 96 2500 CTD 2WD I would like to install the CTD into the 4WD truckMy questions areWould the gas 4X4 Trans bolt to the CTD?If not how hard are the CTD 4WD tran's to obtain usedBoth trucks are std cab 8'beds

Yes, I would have the same question, what is the process to "flush" the p/s system? Thanks.

This thread may not be in the right area, and I apologize ahead of time if it is? I have not heard of this problem on the board before but here goes,I live in Michigan and sometimes it gets quite cold up here, when my truck (200 CTD 2 wd) sits outside at work in the cold (it was 6* F today) and I start the truck I get a terrible growl from the power steering system. The noise seems to be from the fluid being to cold/thick?. Is this a common problem? Is there a thinner power steering fluid available? This afternoon I started the truck and let it idle for 1/2 hr before leaving work to try and warm the oil some to no avail.....The darn thing growled all the way home, 6 miles... Yes the reservoir is full of fluid, but thanks for asking. Any help would be appreciated. Randy