randy4140

I just went thru my truck yesterday as I was having trouble with cold starts and suspected the fuel heater. I did the standard troubleshooting of the system and found that the heater thermostat was bad and the heater element was good. I had my son, who works at a GM dealer who's group also owns the Dodge dealership order me a oem t-stat. The parts guy told me that he had never had a request for one of these before........So I ordered it and then found out that the t-stats were on a nation wide, intergalactic back order..... go figure!! So for now i guess I will keep it plugged in for a couple weeks to see if the parts come in. Wish me luck

Mike, I was watching "Trucks" on the local channel and they were doing a Cummins swap into a Ford truck...The Ford will run much better now!!Anyway they showed a fix for this by simply making a tab with a hole in it to mount under the bolt next to the dowel pin. The tab would then prevent the pin from working out.My questions then are these, How often does this happen? Have any of the forum members done this "fix"? How long did it take to remove the covers ect and do the job start to finish?Do you have a DIY on this procedure? Thanks Randy

A question for all.I have recently heard of a potential problem on the older 5.9, 's that I am sure most of you know about, but it was news to me. There is a dowel pin under the front cover that can work out and tear up the gears in the fron of the motor? And I understand the easy fix, I quess my question is, Is this still a potential problem on the 2nd gen 24 valve motor? or has it been adderessed by Cummins? Thanks in advance for "clearing the air"

Ok now, so I finally got my Pod mount and my Pricol Gauges after quite some delay from GOS performance.....although I had to wait, they were good to deal with and answered my questions about the order promptly. Thanks MoparMan for the GOS referral. :thumbsup Now for the installation process. There were no specific instructions on installation, and I thought I had seen a thread for that on this board? Can anyone point me in the right direction for a clean install of the pod and gauges. Thanks Randy

I would like to "lock out" the T C on my 2000 CTD at times after warmup, around town, If this sounds unusual let me explain why.I have rebuilt the trans w/heavy duty parts, bands, shift kit ect, and an aftermarket HD Torque Converter, a TCS Converter I believe?When I ordered the TC, t he fellow I spoke with told me I needed a T C that locked up at a lower rpm than stock. Being a novice I said "OK". This now seems to be an issue especially around town when warm, and towing on hilly terrain. The trans does not want to unlock and shift down on hills until it is to late, and then slams out of lock up and downshifts hard and then back up to high gear and sometimes back and forth before I can stop it....very unnerving to say the least !!Sometimes the T C stays locked up after a stop and then the truck seems like it is starting in 2nd gear.. If I shift to nuetral, blip the throttle, then the truck will take off normally. weird eh??? Sorry to run on about this but I like to try and give all the info I know when asking for helpSo I ask....Is the TC the culprit??? Or is it something else? if so, What?Is this Lock out switch the answer as a temp measure? or do I need to address this with the T C supplier? Many Thanks. Randy

I have a 5" pipe and muffler on my 2000 CTD and that baby growls. B) ..I don't think I would be able to stand it with the muffler off!! On a side note I think my neighbors dog likes to hide in the pipe it's so big LOL LOL Randy

I was afraid that the fuel pressure would be low, so I installed the heavier spring with the new fass pump :red . I suppose I should take the pump back out and put the stock spring back in ` ????Will the higher pressure really hurt anything? The truck seems to run fine........... :confused

Ok, I finally bit the bullet and ordered the gauges for my truck from GOS with the pricol gauges, I have not bought a fuel pressure gauge as of yet. I have went and used a pressure gauge at the port on the VP44, after replacing the lift pump with a fass replacement I have 30lbs of pressure after starting the engine. Is this too high, or ok?Is there a gauge mount for the steering column? I have not found one yet. Thanks, Randy

Mopar, I have heard a lot about different guages to use, not diff mfg's, When I order my piller mount I will only be able to mount 3 guages I think?I tow a camper so I know I want a Trans Temp guage, I am also thinking of installing an aftermarket trans cooler w/fans. What would be the other two that would be most important?Pyro, pre or post?Turbo Boost?Other? Thanks R

I have a question for you guys.My sister in law has a 96? CTD, and the side of the truck and the motor says it has a 24 V Motor, I thought that the 24V's were from 98 up. It looks like a 12V motor as far as the IP goes ect. What's up. Could it be an "early 24V" motor? ..............

EUREKA !! I picked up the Map sensor from my local parts guy, installed it and cleared the codes, And presto-chango my truck was HEALED..........Now I can hook up the programmer and get back to the way it's supposed to drive. Thanks for all the help and advice from all :thumbsup Now! How would I best get a little more power out of the old girl? I have the following done. 1. Replaced the air filter with a cone type high flow (not a K&N) I had an amsoil filter and thought I would try this one. 2. Bully Dog programmer. Simple 3 step, 65hp on high I think. 3. Expandit 5" pipe system w/floe thru muffler 4. Rebuilt Trans w/shift kit, HD Converter, bands ect. Where is the best place to get some guages? Trans Temp, ect

They had to reorder it from another distributor...the computer lied and said it was in stock.I hope it comes in today and my truck will run like the other 3 cylinders are workin !! I will let you know

I should have the new Map sensor today from my local auto parts store, hope this takes care of it!! Will install it and clear the codes, see what happens???? Randy

MoparMan, Do you have a lead to which code reader I should look for, and a recommendation for same? Randy

If I change the Map sensor out will the codes clear by themselves or do I have to get a reader to clear them?What would be an good fairly economical code reader to have ?? Thanks

Well, I removed the IAT sensor and the Map sensor and cleaned them as Michael instructed in the tips section they weren't very dirty....no difference in the way the truck runs....still like it is 1/2 power..or less.I saw there was a resistance test for the IAT, is there a test for the MAP sensor, should I just purchase a replacement? Is there a better aftermarket one or should I go OEM?Help....I need my truck back................R

To all; I have been having trouble with my 2000 2nd Gen, The truck was shifting strangely, I was getting what I thought was "dead pedal". I perused the board for answers to others questions/posts. I could not get more than the 1693 code from the odometer readout...no matter how many times I did it...sorry Michael, I just couldn't get it!So far I have done the following, and the problem comes and goes.1, I removed and cleaned ALL the grounds in the system, and the battery leads, and the fuse/relay box leads2, I have replaced the Carter pump with a Fass replacement pump, just because and I have 153000 on the truck3, I have replaced the APPS with one from Timbo. 4, Today I went down to my local Autozone and had them pull the DTC codes from the truck ( I know I should have done that first! ) The DTC codes from the truck were P0236, and P0237, which are for the Map sensor, Turbo over boost and under boost.Can it really be this simple? I read somewhere that the Map sensor can be cleaned, is this so? I thought I was looking at a VP44 failure.Can anyone help me with this? Don't hesitate with your suggestions, please. Thanks Randy