safn1949

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Words fail me,I try to keep my head up but holy buckets.....it's hard.

I realize this is an old thread,my steering sucks. The front end has been rebuilt and it just wanders a little back and forth,I'm told it is the nature of the beast,will this setup work on a RWD without a solid axle? Well worth it if it will.

Groovy....found the right side at rockauto for $16.71 shipped......wholesalers closeout. The left side I will poke around for.

On mine the brake and abs light are on,driving the speedo stays good. It is my understanding that the red brake light will come on also after an abs fault. At least that's how the FSM states it.

2 wheel drive on mine,bought her that way on purpose for the mileage and less headaches.

I knew it was gonna be a bear to do,the heck with that. I don't have anyplace to work on it and no air tools,it was worth it to have someone else fight with it.

I hope you don't mind me jumping in here.....where do I get the 4 gauge set (trans temp,egt,fuel pressure and engine temp)as well as the pillar mount? Thanks guys.

I still have a 94 explorer but would like a V8,the explorers to stay away from are the second gen (95-2001) with the sohc 4.0,motor and trans are junk. But if you want a much newer you would be looking at a 4th gen at least.I see a lot of the old style Durango's around for $1500-1800 with the 5.2 and 5.9,just wondered what the weak spots are on them.

Just had all my ball joints done along with 2 tierods and the idler arm,my guy said the ball joints fell apart when they went to remove them. Doesn't suprise me as the clown who had this truck before me never fixed much. The ball joints pay just over 6 hours flat rate,I used to be a flat rate mechanic but man.....I hate doing it anymore,tough job on a old truck.

I am thinking of looking for an older V8 durango,had a 2000 AWD 5.0 Explorer and really liked it but why not expand my search. The truck I buy will get the hell run out of it back roading here in Minnesota so reliable is what I need,not pretty. Any thoughts?

I don't get the smell but the windshield fogs up all the time,it's a real pain. I wondered if the heater core was the cause but I usually can smell even minute amounts of coolant.

Started her up and it never changed the idle,900 rpm at 20 f. Being new to this what should the idle be normally and on high idle?

Thanks for all the info....it is 12 f outside so I should get at least 6 cyl high idle when I start the old girl up,lets give it a whirl.

Looks doable to me...so how do I tell if the ecm has been flashed to enable the high idle as my scan tool is for my 94 Explorer and will not read the CTD.?

Just a thought....why couldn't I use a manual idle cable. Like a choke cable just to get high idle,as you can see I have too much time on my hands here.I also saw a plug and play 3 speed idle box,don't know if it will work on the cummins yet. Gonna call and ask this week if I remember.

Got home and replaced the feed line to the injection pump,bleed it at the banjo and nothing.....cracked the #1 injector line and it took off........holy buckets I was worried that the vp44 decided to crap out. Runs good,I think I will put that Mr Gasket pump on for now and then I found that Vulcan makes an intank pump delete.So that and a raptor and I'm in business for $350 or so next spring. Nice....thanks a lot for the info fellas.

Thanks for the ideas,went out this morning and........no start. Didn't even try to start,still shows 7psi cranking so I guess I will bleed the line at the pump banjo in case it got some air in the line.

Problem is I have the intank pump and don't have $565 for an airdog right now, add that with the better half hit a deer with her car and I have to cough up a $500 deductible....ouch. I have to drive the truck for a few weeks until the car is fixed.It will be parked all winter,might put another 250 miles on it tops. Only 8 miles to work.Oh well,such is life.

It's a sad day in mudville......fuel pressure gauge hooked up and I have a whopping 7 psi at idle,4psi going down the road and 1.5psi WOT.I got to say I'm bummin'.........

Kinda what I thought,I run a little bit of Howes in mine now,don't know how much it helps the ULSD problem. I won't be towing any distance next year,we live in the camper in the summer and I will tow it 8 miles this fall and 25 next spring to the campground. Here is what I will probably go for...http://shop.airdogdieselfuelsystems.com/AirDog-Fuel-Air-Separation-System-100-GPH-A4SPBD353-A4SPBD353.htm?productId=18 Thinking of going with a 3" exhaust next year minus the stock muffler,any ideas on a free flow muffler that will not create much back pressure? I'm deaf as a plank but don't want to scare everyone to death when I go by. $12.15 a gallon for the 2 stroke oil at wally world,sounds like a plan,thanks for that.

I have been told by our shops head diesel guy that I can just install a Raptor 100 where the stock pump used to be and leave the retrofitted intank pump alone as it will simply draw thru it. I have to say that I am leery of this setup,I have a stock 99 3500 with 237,000 on it.He runs a 2000 CTD with 500+ HP so he's no dummy but I just want it right.I was hoping the pump was still in the stock location but it as not to be,aluminum junction block.I bought the truck dirt cheap and have only put 1500 or so miles on it,fuel pressure gauge will be installed in the next 2 weeks.So what to do,the truck will be driven rarely and will be lucky to get another 1500 on it by next spring,I intend to keep it for awhile and would prefer to do it right as it will tow a 31 foot travel trailer in the future at 9000 lbs or so,thanks for your input.