Nathan S

I’m in northwest Colorado, and -30 in the winter isn’t uncommon in this area. I leave mine plugged in all night if I’m going to use it the next day. I’ve done this with this truck since 2008 and the first gen I had before for a couple of years. I’ve never had to replace the block heater either. There are outlets in the parking lot where I work for block heaters so I will use one cord for the block heater and another for the small space heater in the cab. It’s pretty nice to not have to scrap snow and ice off the windows in the morning and have the heater blowing luke warm air right away.

That make sense. This morning I tried 16* on the base map at 1500 rpm with 1.5* of Max load offset and 2* of low psi timing reduction. The surge was still there but not as pronounced, I bumped the base timing up to 16.5 and it cured it. I was pulling too much timing before because the base map was set to low. Cutting the scaling down to 40% helped because it reduced the amount of timing pulled at low load. Now all the functions work as they are intended and it drives much better. I started the can bus table at 85 and increased by 2 through the whole map and the surging at higher boost pressures was gone. The egt is wel within control, not much over 1,000 empty and pushing the truck in 4th gear. With the gooseneck dump trailer hooked up I never got above 1,250 degrees up a pretty large grade in 5th gear at 70 mph. I think I will play with timing a little more to see how the egt reacts but so far I’m very pleased with the results. Thanks again for all the help, even though it was here and I just needed to reread some things for the information to sink in.

I think I’ve gotten the tune working better. I have lowered the Max timing offset, lowered timing to 17 degrees at 2000 rpm and lowered the timing reduction scaling to 40% and the stumble in 2nd gear is gone. It was swinging timing from 18 degrees down to 12 then sharply back up to 18 as the load would increase then decrease. After the adjustments today, the lowest timing I saw was 13.5 degrees with the load about 50%. I did adjust the can bus map as well. The surge around 15 pounds of boost is still there, but not as pronounced as before. There was 0 smoke output from the exhaust so I increased the lower end of the map just to see what effect it would have. My idea for the next change is to lower the fueling by a couple of points at each level from 15 psi and above to see if that will help with the surge. Does this seem like the right thing to try? I have been messing around with the data logging, and I have a couple of questions concerning how it actually works. Do I need to make a pull in the truck, send the data log, then turn the truck off to keep from getting such a large data log? I have tried a couple of times but there is just so much data that its difficult to decipher. I have read the thread on building trends with excel and have been playing with it. It seems that the data log gets full and stops recording certain parameters by the end of the log. Edit: After more research on here and thinking about what I was asking the tuner to do, I think I discovered the actual problem with the tune. I think I had the timing setting at 1500 rpm was too low with the low boost timing reduction too high. The quad was pulling too much timing at high loads and low boost then adding the timing back in when the load decreased. By moving the timing reduction scaling to 40%, the quad was maintaining more timing and the stumble was better. I think this was the wrong way to go about fixing the issue. I have built an identical tune with a higher starting point for the timing map and will try it on the way home from work. I do appreciate all the help on here and I apologize for the huge posts. I have been going through the custom tuning thread again things are making much more sense now that I’ve got a little experience with the quad and seeing how the different parameters effect the truck.

Hey thanks! Good to know there’s another member in the area I didn’t notice this before. I will adjust that and try it out to see if the surge is as pronounced as before, thanks for catching that.

I haven’t seen above 20 degrees on timing yet. Moving the low boost timing reduct to 0 from 1 degree seemed to help the most. I think a lot of it is going to just be learning the new system. I did do one pretty good pull, not quite 100% throttle, and at the truck seems to react really well. There is no smoke at all, the peak egt was about 1300 degrees at the top of fourth gear. It is much smoother than the edge programmer was. Do you think the 21.2 degrees of timing at 2500 rpm is too high? The truck didn’t bucks or backfire or anything, but it did sound different than it has in the past. I also don’t have more than 1000 miles on this turbo and injector combination so it could just take some getting used to.

I will try reducing the Max timing by half a degree to 25.5 and bump the low boost scaling up 10 psi and go try it and see how it acts. Thank you for the help.

I got my Adrenaline installed about a week ago and have playing around with a couple of tunes. I got a tow tune set up that I think will work well and a daily driving tune. Both base maps were built from the excel spreadsheet. So far I am beyond happy with the product and can’t believe how it runs compared to the edge. The first question I have concerns the light load timing advance on the tow tune. Do I want to have the light load threshold lower than what the truck cruises with a load at so it’s not constantly advancing the timing then pulling it back out with every small grade change in the road? Is it detrimental to have the timing bump up while just cruising on the flat at low boost with a load? My next question is about the truck having a small stumble for lack of a better term. It’s more noticeable when the truck is cold, and when taking off from a stop. I usually don’t use 1st gear to start out, so leaving a stop sign in 2nd gear is when the issue is the most noticeable. It sounds as if I may have the timing ramp too steep, because the truck will take off just like it used to with the edge, then about 1800 rpm I can hear the timing change, the truck kind of stumbles, then it clears up. It sounds a lot like injector rattle in a common rail. It only happens when I take off more aggressively than what is really necessary. If I’m gentle with the accelerator pedal it does not happen. It really only does this in 2nd and 3rd gear, past that it’s smooth. The last thing I had a concern about is the truck building power very aggressively around 2200 rpm. It builds power smoothly up until that point, at at about 2200 rpm and 15 pounds of boost its really starts to pull hard, and it does this suddenly. I don’t have much time on the turbo that it’s on the truck currently so I’m not sure if this it tune related or it’s a function of the larger turbo. The tune below is completely smoke free. I’ve been using just level 3, so just can bus fueling only. I did turn it up to 11 and made one rip and it was absolutely incredible how the truck ran. Daily Tune: Power Levels: 11 RPM Limit: 3200 Valet Mode: 30% Pump Tap Parameters: Max Stretch: 1600 TPS Max: 100% TPS Min:20% Low Boost Scale:5 psi Boost Scaling: 35 psi Timing Parameters: Max Load Offset: 2.0 degrees Low PSI Timing Reduct: 1.0 degrees Timing Reduct Scaling: 100% Light Throttle Timing Advance: 2.0 degrees Light Load Limit: 30% Timing Max: 1500 RPM: 14.0 2000 RPM: 17.7 2500 RPM: 21.2 3000 RPM: 24.0 Max: 26.0 Can Bus Fuel 0 psi: 84 1 psi: 86 2 psi: 88 3 psi: 90 4 psi: 92 5 psi: 94 6 psi: 96 7 psi: 99 8 psi: 102 9 psi: 105 10 psi: 108 11 psi: 111 12 psi: 115 13 psi: 119 14 psi: 123 15 psi: 128 16 psi: 132 18 psi: 136 20 psi: 140 22 psi: 145 24- 30 psi: 150

One thing that I am having difficulty understanding is the difference in the can bus fueling and the wire tap fueling as fas as how it is delivered. As far as injection pump operation, how are they different? I guess what I mean is how does commanding a percentage of fuel higher than 100% for a given boost level differ from just extending the injection event? Edit: Im not sure how I missed the thread where it’s all explained, or maybe it was just all information overload at first but I believe I found answers to my questions in the “What is canbus fueling” thread. Thank you guys for your help yet again, and I should have researched a bit more or again before starting another thread.

I recently received my new Quadzilla Adrenaline from DAP, and I’ve been doing a lot of reading on this site, watching videos on YouTube, and I downloaded the Excel tune builder and have been playing with that. I’m very excited to learn and to start tuning the truck. I’m coming from a 12 year old edge juice with attitude that stays on level 3 with the low boost fueling on 1 all the time. I have used the tune builder to build starting point tow and daily driver tunes based on my elevation and injector size. I know it is going to take some time with the truck and the load it will be carrying to get the tow tune dialed in right. My main question is, for the tow tune should I have the the tune in question on the highest setting so I will see the full amount of fuel? I want to have to good setup for towing my 10,000 pound camper up some pretty large grades in western Colorado. I recently upgraded the injectors and turbo, and the truck is performing very well, but I still think there is room for improvement on the egt management, and at only 15 pounds of boost up a 5% grade with about 6000 pounds in tow, I know they turbo is not being pushed too hard. I’m hoping I will be able to set the quad up to where I don’t have to watch the pyrometer like a hawk.

I’ve had two sets of injectors from DAP now and been happy with both. The first set I purchased from them will be rebuilt to match the new set so I have spares should I ever need one. The sales person I spoke with on the phone when I ordered the second set was very knowledgeable, listened to my concerns with the truck without talking over me or trying to up sell things I didn’t need. I will definitely use them again.

The only trucks I have experience with that have an automatic and an exhaust brake are all newer trucks that the exhaust brake is integrated in to the truck using the VGT. I’ve never been in a 2nd gen or 3rd gen 5.9 with an aftermarket brake and automatic so I’m not much help on whether they downshift with the converter locked or not.

These transmissions have brass or carbon fiber synchronizers to increase or decrease shaft speed when the next gear is being selected to make the transmission shift smoother and eliminate the need to match engine speed with wheel speed. It’s not good for the synchros to float the gears so to speak. I’ve seen guys do it and tried it myself, but it’s not how the transmission was intended to be used. Heavy duty transmissions like the medium and heavy duty Eaton fuller boxes have no synchros hence the need for rev matching and more skill to operate than a light duty manual transmission.

Absolutely not. I have a good southbend dual disc clutch so I can do all the exhaust brake down shifts I want and I don’t have to worry about hurting the clutch. I even push the clutch in to shift the gear vendors, and make sure the main transmission shifter is in neutral before engaging or disengaging the gear vendors.

If you do end up doing a manual swap I would recommend finding and nv5600 or g56 six speed transmission. I’ve got the nv4500 transmission which is great, don’t get me wrong, but the split in ratio between third and fourth gears is huge. With my 285/65 tires and 3.55 axle gears, the truck will go from 2300 rpm when I shift out of third down to 1250 in fourth. That’s fine for normal around town driving but towing it’s a pain for sure. I’ve since added a gear vendors overdrive to the truck, and this eliminates that dead spot between gears but hindsight says I should have just found a 6 speed transmission to put in it.

I agree with this, but the sizing of the turbine and exhaust housing and compressor technology has been vastly improved. I have a friend with an 01 that has roughly 150s and a 62 but the turbine and housing are so mismatched you have to drive around it. If too much throttle is applied it will smother turbo and never spool correctly. Mine acts just like it did when it was bone stock, with 250 more horsepower. It’s just incredible how much of a difference the correct injector and turbo combination can make with these trucks.

I’m definitely excited to get started with it. Being able to tune it perfectly for everyday driving and towing the camper will be really fun to mess with.

Thanks for the link to the tunes. That was the main reason I joined the site was for quadzilla information. I’m hauling water with the new injectors for the first time today and with the 400 gallon tank on the truck, the egt is 200 degrees cooler getting moving than the old injectors. When I started looking in to performance parts for these trucks about 12 years ago, a 7x.010 was a huge injector. I should have gone with these in the first place.

They are going back to DAP to be rebuilt in to a back up set for me. I think they are rated at 70 horsepower. They were also VCO nozzles and worked pretty well with the stock turbo.

I got my new injectors from DAP installed an Friday and I can’t be happier with how the truck runs. It’s smoother at idle, has way less idle haze when the engine is cold, and they pair perfectly with the Calibrated Power hx35 stealth 64. The smoke output is less than the 7x.0085 injectors they replaced. I also got a quadzilla adrenaline at the same time as the injectors but it ended up getting back ordered so I’m still running my 12 year old Edge Juice with Attitude for now. The sales staff at DAP are second to none. I will definitely use them again in the future.

There are advantages to both for sure. My daily driver has a topper and it’s nice for keeping things locked up and dry. I have to haul all the potable water to my house so the flatbed is much more convenient for putting the tank on the truck and getting it off. One nice thing about the flatbed is the inability to put random nonsense on it and carry it around for months at a time.

My 99 before and after the new flatbed.

I bought my 99 in September of 2008 with 68,000 miles and it was bone stock. It has 168,000 miles now and has been through a few variations to get to where it is now. I’m sure I’ll never stop buying new parts for it or trying different things with it. It has been the best vehicle I’ve ever had, and I still grin every time I look at it. I’m new to this community and am excited to be here.