rancherman

I can't see how a groove on the backside of the ball (caused by the ring on the spring) would cause it to hang up. I noticed the ball in your pic being almost black.. is it really that color in 'person'? I can tell you however... immediately behind any pressure reduction device (this particular ball and spring) is a prime spot for Ice to form and grow. I've seen RUSTED springs behind these kind of ball valves in a lot of different fuel systems. Last time I checked, diesel fuel isn't that corrosive! The tiny wire spiral would then make a perfect foothold for h20 moles to seed and grow upon. They could very easily then get built up enough to really hang up the ball from the backside.. causing the spike in pressure.

let me ruminate this over... thanks for now!

I need a refresher again on Volts-Amps. I thought of volts as the speed of current, which is tied in with how fast the armature is turning in the alternator. Faster the alternator, the more volts... this is where the voltage regulator comes in. Then when the battery is being discharged, or is already low, the amps come up to refill the batts. I've associated AMPS with 'force or pressure' of the current. What 'changes' in these alternators to vary the amount of amps? The amount of 'field' being supplied to the windings?

Yep, my 94 gasser 2500 has inboards. goofy looking setup for sure!

is the battery temp sensor for both 'too hot' and 'too cold' conditions? I would've sworn I read somewhere that if the batt is REALLY cold, the pcm will modulate the full output of alternator until batt is close to normal operating temps.

I'd say it's where the ball strikes the housing. over and over and over... Those impulses that destroy the FP gauge are most definitely making the way back to this ball..

Ok, I've never bought a new vehicle. What happened to the 7- year 100k dealio?

How many miles on the '10 needing rebuild? This'll be warranteed??

I gotta 2000!! Were all pre 2000's inboard rotors? with the dana 60 that is? I guess the old man did SOMETHING right by waiting for the 2000's to come out.. wished he would've waited another year and a half..

true. isn't the gauge that this guy is watching a VOLTMETER???

wondering about the old column itself. Is there a position sensor in those for PRNDL too? might be sending some goofy info back to pcm.. which it can't handle seeing most of your problems are in the cluster, I'd take back out and check the (not sure what ya call it) 'connection strip'?? before doing this, just whack the dash with your palm a couple times..

Thinking out loud here: would a bad battery temp sensor shut down/reduce the output of the alternator?.. but should be at all engine speeds, not just idle? Unless it reduces it so much that @ idle it's actually basically zero output??

if you find it's internal pcm, I'd just convert it to an 'inline' type regulator. I've read it costs about 25 bucks... and bypasses the pcm altogether. how quick 'off idle' will the gauge sweep upwards, showing a charge? And when the rpms drop, does the gauge slowly drop, or does it just cannonball to the low reading?

Does FASS offer parts?? I should 'mic' the bore on mine to see if it's the same bore as what you guys have.. ( I already have your seal's dimensions) I could machine it to a size of seal that is readily available too..

anybody ever see or have these installed? http://www.ebay.com/itm/271635496536?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true Gearing up (ha ha) to start the freshening of my nv5600 for the project truck... and stumbled across these heavier than oem springs for the synchronizer rings. Supposed to make the rings more aggressive at speeding up or slowing down the required gear for engagement. Seems like when you 'add' pressure in a certain spot, problems could surface elsewhere.. I think this would be good for the speed shifting crowd, and when shifted 'normally'.. could help add life to these very expensive rings..

it's a star wheel that sits between the bearings.. inside the housing. http://spyntec.com/wp-content/uploads/Dodge_ABS_2-150x150.jpg I've read a lot of guys doing it! No one wants to say how many shots of grease they are putting in.. or how long the abs sensor lasts after it's having grease slung all over it..

Well, All I can say is.. my seal is out, and it's totally different than yours. After popping the little star washer/retainer out, it ends up being just a really thick o-ring, and a little plastic 'top hat' shaped plastic insert. This insert pops into the oring, and the plastic part is in actual contact with the rotating shaft. The o-ring only seals against the OUTSIDE of the plastic insert and the housing. This HAS TO BE the problem child/ quality everyone's been talking about! That plastic is the only thing keeping fuel out, besides the seal on the actual bearing. (this is why it's still in the box) Now, finding a replacement o-ring is probably doable, but that insert has no markings at all. The star washer in my hand is what is jammed into the housing, and presses against the insert, which puts a squeeze on the oring. The small part of the insert is what goes inside the o-ring. The only contact with the shaft is the inner part of the insert

well, THIS storm moved off late this afternoon... seen the sun go down tonight. 'we' only got about 6 inches, but the further south and east from here it gets deep fast! Oh man, when we get an E-NE wind, we are doomed!

far as I can tell, the wavy washer on mine is against the bearing. probably to keep the bearing pressed into the housing. Edit, just took it back apart and the wavy washer is between the bearing and the end. There is a small shoulder that holds it off the seal, so the wavy washer is keeping the armature from floating back and forth. My bearing also has an oring that seals it on the outer race and housing too.. besides the rubber seals on the bearing. The brush end of the motor only has steel shielding, no apparent rubber seal... I think I'll tear mine apart tonight again and pop that bearing and seal clear out.. there may be a difference in them after all! My pump's serial number is: 404233 I think I bought it 3 years ago?

I'll bet when the thing was assembled at the factory, the flat spot on the motor shaft 'cleaned off' the lip on the seal when it went through! I'd say my seal is the same as yours.. when looking past the star washer

here's mine with -0- hours. Sorry for the fuzzy pics. I was probably 4 inches too close! I found the little star washer that holds the seal in place, 'off center'. half the little tabs that bite into the housing were straight, the opposing side tabs were bent up pretty severely. If that was putting any side pressure on the seal, it may have ate it up pretty quickly. I didn't knock the seal out, I was a little afraid to force that star washer out and expect it to hold next time. Those little tabs were bit into the aluminum pretty deep. Seal appears to be just a solid thick seal,(the 'rubber' is about 1/4 inch thick, same as the seal housing) and the pressure side has a slightly smaller diameter, forming the seal lip. I'd say the motor shaft would be in full contact with the whole depth of the seal.

Ok, got mine apart, and this is what I got; This ad 100 has -0- hours. I found the little star washer that is used to hold the seal in place was 'off center' half the little tangs on the star were just sitting in the bore, the opposing half were bent up. If that washer was putting any side pressure on the seal, It may cause it to wear pretty quickly in one spot. I didn't pull it out, cause as you all know, those one-way washers might be junk for the next trip back in.

seals and numbers are kinda tricky. not only are the shaft diameter, outside diameter, and width crucial, then you have lip type, number of lips, material of seal, direction of lips-according to body of seal. That list of 'interchange #'s ' probably has the dimensions correct.. but there may be differences in actual seal type or msterial. Lets take a step outside the box here! There may be a good chance there is a better seal out there in the first place! Just gotta research what's 'out there'. NO doubt airdog didn't have a special seal made just for them.. That lil dude no doubt is just a plain ol off the shelf that AD got a tremendous deal on. (cheap) I knock mine apart tonight and see what's in it too. BRB!

Got any hydroboost rebuild articles? or links to? I got that looming on the horizon.

CHRYSLER t340 FREIGHTLNR CHR3101 TROSTEL T50364 VICTOR 62051 L&S Be... 71-3101 TIMKEN 712021 NATIONAL 240916