Search the Community

So I have a 99 24 valve Cummins with 7x14 injectors, bigger-ish turbo, delivery tubes, and lift pump and no tuner on it. When I shift into any gear when the truck is warm it feels like the truck either has to much load on it or tries to overcompensate and it just stalls out. The Tranny is stock. Was told it has billet converter but I’m not positive. It only does this after the truck has been running at operating temp. First start up in morning it shifts fine no issues. Any ideas???

This is new... When I start up in the morning and go into gear, the engine seems to want to die. Basically, sees like the trans is grabbing too much...any ideas?

I am working on my brothers 1999 Dodge doollie, 3500 extended cab with the 24 valve Cummins Turbo Diesel. When you turn the headlights on it kills the engine. The problem is sporadic and will come and go. I pull the ASD relay and the engine will run with the headlights on, after a while, maybe five minutes it will kill the engine, when you turn the headlights back on. I have replaced both the ASD and Fuel pump relays. I also have .5 amp discharge from the battery, which I tried to track down by pulling circuit fuses, one at a time. I did not find it. I believe I have a bad ground somewhere but can't find the link between killing the fuel pump (engine dies) and the headlights being turned on. Any help!

Wasn't RUNNING that is. We were on our way to drop the truck off to get the heat/AC fixed. I'd already driven 25 miles... I was going 35-40 when suddenly I lost the power steering... cause the engine had shut off. I pulled off the road into the only space available. I still had 1/4 tank of fuel... old fuel been in since Sept/Oct. I've only been driving enough to keep the brakes from freezing. The engine turns over nicely. No run. I did the key thing. PCU -------- ECM -------- The mice had built a nest in the air cleaner (which I'd recently cleaned out)... mostly insulation material from the firewall. (Hood insulation removed long ago.) My buddy came by, put another 4 gallons of fuel in it (to be sure). He checked the schrader valve & got a spray of warm fuel. Truck still has OEM lift pump. I hope that's not it. (No Codes) I had to get the truck moved... AAA flatbedded it to the nearest dealer. They promised to look at it this afternoon, $80 to run the diognostics. I have no clue at this point. 56,000 miles edit Dealer called back. (Good service... 4 hours to check it out) Lift pump. Dealer wants $1200 to install the intank pump that I don't want.

I bought this truck a couple of weeks ago with the owner telling me that he thought it needed a new VP44. The one in it was rebuilt just over a year ago. I've been working on some of its other problems and trying to figure out if it is in fact the injection pump that is causing the trucks problems. Basically the truck will sometimes start missing and farting. Sometimes it is just a minor little blip and sometimes it is bad enough that it will die at idle. It happens at all RPM ranges but is definetly worse when there is no throttle applied. Some days it does this right off the bat and other you can drive for 30 miles without any problems. When I got the truck it had codes p1689, p1690, and p0121. I read Moparman's post about the fuel system relay causing p1689, changed it out and cleared codes. Now after about 12 hours of running since, only the p0121 code has come back. My understanding is that it has to do with the APPs sensor. This morning I took the scanguage II out of my dad's truck and drove 40 miles down the highway. I noticed that the LOD (engine load reading) was flucuating a bunch on a flat highway with cruise control engaged. It was usually around 30 but would sometimes bounce up to 48 or down to 16. This was true when the engine was running well as well as when it was running badly. Also seemed to bounce too much around town. I've checked for air in the fuel system, done several APPs resests, and done the PCM and ECM checks listed for code 1689. Does anyone have any idea what might be causing these symptoms? Can a bad APPs cause problems like dying at idle or is it only higher in the RPM range? Any idea what might be causing the screwy engine load reading? Do VP44s die without codes? The truck is stock except that it has a 12 valve exhaust manifold on it (something I will be fixing this week.) Any help would be greatly appriceated, I am ready to buy a VP44 but I don't want to throw a bunch of money at it only to find it was the wrong thing. __________________ 99 2500 NV4500 4x4 Stock for now Last edited by Mattatat; Today at 01:14 PM.

O.K. I TO had been struggling with this stalling issue..but.. about 2-months ago i thought i had fixed it buy replacing some ground connections and a TIMBP APPPS...Wrong....yestarday it done it again..thing is..it is random..and unlike SASQCH & JOHNFAK ..MINE does not seem to do it when it cold...only does it after its warmed up and has been ran a few miles...mine too will pull down rpms real low at times but does not stall but it almost does..:banghead: I am curious..has anyone had this issue that is running stock injectors and stock SO VP pump??? Richie

So I got my first fuel fill of the Alaska winter fuel blend last week and immediately the stalling when put in drive is back just like my thread of last spring on this problem. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1584-Problems-Stalling-when-shifting-to-drive-and-hard-starting-when-hot.-Ideas?highlight= I got to thinking after I read JohnFak's thread on the same issue with his truck where new batteries fixed it. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2401-New-One-truck-stalls-when-moving-into-gear?highlight= Entry #20 I checked my batteries and found they were 5 years old. Well, they are Costco's kirkland brand with a 100 month warranty. I looked at the chart of refund on the batteries and found I was at the 30% refund point. I pulled the batteries and took them to Costco and indeed, they did refund 30% of the purchase price after looking up my sales receipt in their computer (I had misplaced mine :-) ). Then I went and got 2 new batteries (again Kirkland with 100 mo warrenty), and installed and trickle charged them overnight. Didn't fix the stalling. When it was stalling last spring I had edge +80 injectors. I have since replaced them with RV275 injectors (new), so I'm sure that it isn't the injectors as the stalling happens with both sets of injectors. Last spring I found that adding injector cleaner ended the stalling until I added fuel once again. I've been getting my fuel at the Fred Meyers stores. I think I'm going to try another fuel source and see if that helps. I hate to use additives other than 2cycle oil. Any other Ideas? Jim

ok - don't think I have seen this one before that I remember. Got my truck back few weeks back with new RV275's and some valve/head work.All good except when I start off in morning it stalls the engine. Basically I start 1st time everytime with 16-17psi. Then I sit for 30 secs @800 rpm and as soon as I engaged 'D' or 'R' (depending on how parked) ... the rpms drop around 400 and the engine stalls. Once the enine is warmed up and running ...... all ok .......... any ideas ???