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Help please, pinhole in raidiator.


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I made it to the end of the job and replaced the radiator yesterday with a napa/spectra radiator w/lifetime warranty less than the dealer with better warranty, can't go wrong. I also changed the t-stat while there to the 180* option for the warmer weather down here in FL. I also found out that the radiator that started leaking was a very low quality radiator the core was actually thinner that the spectra replacement. I'll post pics soon for refrence.

 

I am not sure the 180° was a good idea. The cooler thermostat will have several negative effects and I don't think any positive effects. 

 

The higher temperature is more efficient, but just how much is a ??? Anyhow, diesels like heat and a cooler thermostat will generally mean lower power and/or mileage. 

 

Also your fan clutch is electronically controlled and doesn't really start getting actuated until ±215°. The max allowable temperature on a 180° thermostat is 212° (Cummins limit, not Dodge), so you have basically taken your fan out of the equation. 

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I will give a try over the summer and see how it feels, even with the 190* t stat I had before I would rarely see 210*+ unless I was at idle for a while. Its pretty easy to swap out and they are about $20-30. Also I have always noticed that when I am runing the AC no matter what the scenario coolant temp drops to 188* and doesnt pass 196* and that was with the old 190* t stat. does the Cummins t-stat have a higher temp setting or is it 190* as well ?

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If you are hitting 210° at idle you have other problems, that is above full open on the thermostat and there is no way you need that much cooling at idle. I would guess the thermostat was bad or your fan clutch is failing, probably the thermostat thou as the fan doesn't run much even with the a/c on at idle. 

 

The 190° thermostat cracks at 190°±3°, goes full open at 207°, and has a max allowed temp of 225°. 

 

The 180° thermostat cracks at 180°±3°, goes full open at 198°, and has a max allowed temp of 212°.

 

Watch those non-OEM thermostats closely, they get pretty awful reviews.  

 

Your temperature is very stable because you have a 7+ gallon cooling system. Even pulling 7% grades on a 95° day at 20K GCW at 65mph I don't get too hot and run 215° on the grades. It's a good temp because the fan modulates around 50% for most of the grade. 

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In addition to what you mentioned above I did a little more reading and 190* OEM is the way to go. What sold me was that the warmer temps are better for proper lubrication and oem t-stat fails open as where some aftermarket fail closed.

Would anyone happen to know who is the manufacturer for cummins oem t stat?

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If you are hitting 210° at idle you have other problems, that is above full open on the thermostat and there is no way you need that much cooling at idle. I would guess the thermostat was bad or your fan clutch is failing, probably the thermostat thou as the fan doesn't run much even with the a/c on at idle.

The 190° thermostat cracks at 190°±3°, goes full open at 207°, and has a max allowed temp of 225°.

The 180° thermostat cracks at 180°±3°, goes full open at 198°, and has a max allowed temp of 212°.

Watch those non-OEM thermostats closely, they get pretty awful reviews.

Your temperature is very stable because you have a 7+ gallon cooling system. Even pulling 7% grades on a 95° day at 20K GCW at 65mph I don't get too hot and run 215° on the grades. It's a good temp because the fan modulates around 50% for most of the grade.

Also oem responds more acurately to the temp fluctuations you stated above.

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  • 1 month later...

Hey guys, just chiming in on this topic. I went back to the Cummins T-stat and temps are a lot more stable. I contacted cummins gave them my engine code and they got me the exact t stat that the engine needed. The results are noticably different in temp levels, even compared to a premium 190* t stat the cummins t-stat holds temps more consistantly.

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