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Need to remove Valve Body from 47RE trans

rburks
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Greenlee

Greenlee

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Personally I would not buy another 99. Mostly because of the rear drums and brain fart engineered inboard front rotors. It also seems most of the ECM issues are on 99's. And 53 blocks as well. I speak from experience. That said I would not want newer than 2002 because I don't want $$$$$$ commonrail injectors, $$$$$DPF's , and all the other $$$$$ computerized electronic headaches that I can't fix myself. That's why second Gen's are priced so high but you'll save in the long run. :2cents:

Your 2 cents means a lot to me. My brother is buying my 99 and will come pick it up on the way to his new job in S.C.   I will give him a great deal, he is the type to drive it until the wheels fall off. He will do his best to buy the best parts and change fluids on time. I have a 53 block and I have put a lot of Money in this Cummins but the 5 speed is too much so it's time to look for an automatic. Your opinion is one reason I did not go back with a Duramax, you are limited to work on it because of the electronics and replacement parts are exactly as expressed above. What I would like is something be 2000 and 2002 but for trucks that fit the bill it's pretty high, $18K to $25K with very low mileage at the top. The second gen is not bad to work on and even I can do what's needed with better prices on parts it's a win. I wish I was young again to do a tear down like TFaoro is doing with his Cummins. I guess when I find one that fits the ticket I would drive it until something breaks before I start putting build parts into the plan. On a stock Cummins automatic would a tuner be alright to use on the mild end or would it be better to wait until the transmission is rebuilt?

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dave110

dave110

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I have a Quad. XZT+ which is a 60-65 HP chip. I put a Revmax stage 3 and a Transgo TFOD shift kit in which in my opinion is the minimum upgrade to the 47RE. I tow on performance setting grossing 14k and it holds fine, no shudder at all. I'm pretty sure my setup would handle a comp if driven sensibly. I aim to find out shortly. :tongue:

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dave110

dave110

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. What I would like is something be 2000 and 2002 but for trucks that fit the bill it's pretty high, $18K to $25K with very low mileage at the top. ?

PA. seems a little cheaper than most. If you're interested in traveling I can send you some ads.

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Greenlee

Greenlee

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PA. seems a little cheaper than most. If you're interested in traveling I can send you some ads.

Yes Sir, I don't mind looking at anything you send my way. Are PA trucks rust free? I hear a lot of times up North that individuals put up the good stuff for the winter and drive a junker in case of ice causing a slide into someone else. Where is the best place to look up value of a 2002 Cummins loaded with low miles? Send a way when ready.

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Greenlee

Greenlee

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I have a Quad. XZT+ which is a 60-65 HP chip. I put a Revmax stage 3 and a Transgo TFOD shift kit in which in my opinion is the minimum upgrade to the 47RE. I tow on performance setting grossing 14k and it holds fine, no shudder at all. I'm pretty sure my setup would handle a comp if driven sensibly. I aim to find out shortly. :tongue:

I think I mixed up members, should have paid more attention. I see that it's not Russ Roth but you, dave110. Thanks for joining in. Let me know how it does.

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rburks

rburks

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OK Guys, i finally got around to installing the Accumulator Housing from Goerend that Dynotec sent mw to cure the hard and odd 3-4 Shift. I dropped pan and filter last knight, I'll be dropping valve body today and installing accumulator today. ill update tonight on how it goes 

Wish me luck :pray:

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dave110

dave110

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Yes Sir, I don't mind looking at anything you send my way. Are PA trucks rust free? I hear a lot of times up North that individuals put up the good stuff for the winter and drive a junker in case of ice causing a slide into someone else. Where is the best place to look up value of a 2002 Cummins loaded with low miles? Send a way when ready.

Generally not, but there are some companies that specialize in bringing southern trucks up and selling them. I checked the one place and all they have right now is 3rd gens. It's the road salt that destroys our trucks up here :mad:

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rburks

rburks

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Well Guys, i finally got the valve body out and changed out the 3-4 Accumulator assembly done tonight.  after driving down the road a couple of shot trips i can definitely tell a difference.

 It wasn't really as bad as i thought it would be but i did take out some of the torx screws before i figured out they didn't need to be removed.    other than that it went pretty smooth

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Greenlee

Greenlee

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Generally not, but there are some companies that specialize in bringing southern trucks up and selling them. I checked the one place and all they have right now is 3rd gens. It's the road salt that destroys our trucks up here :mad:

They would need more than a transmission job with the bodies falling off. Reading this post lets me know if you make some mild changes with Accumulator springs and valve bodies if I'm reading it right Looks like I did a two post again by luck, no skills necessary. With the rust there should be plenty of parts.

 

.NEED TO KNOW TORQUE SPECS ON VALVE BODY BOLTS......

 
  21.Install the valve body mounting bolts, ensuring the different length bolts are installed in the proper positions, and torque evenly to 100 inch pounds
  I dont' know if this is the torque specs you were looking for but I found them when reading more information about the install from BD.
 
Edited by SLT5Spd99
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