From 24 valve to 12 valve

[Cowboy]

Normally automatics defuel between 2300-2500.  By installing a GSK (Governor Spring Kit) it lets the engine rev to 3000 or 4000 RPM before defueling.  You can install a 3k, but I would install a 4k as the 3k will start to defuel ~2800 and the 4k just drives better.

[Greenlee]

Normally automatics defuel between 2300-2500.  By installing a GSK (Governor Spring Kit) it lets the engine rev to 3000 or 4000 RPM before defueling.  You can install a 3k, but I would install a 4k as the 3k will start to defuel ~2800 and the 4k just drives better.

You might be here and not all there but you have been right on with all the information you have shared and helped me with. I did get a response from Mr. Will Terry but no mention of GSKs. I wrote him again because what he did mention was great info and I ask him permission to post his response on the Forum. When you say De-fuel  at a certain RPM basically this is the max RPM it can fuel at because of spring tension limits so the fuel is re-routed back to the tank?????? Help me out here while you are there.lol.

 

The link you so casually shared with me was fantastic, here is a fantastic, product proven, road tested, unbiased opinion from a guy that knows 12 valve's. I will be reading this post several more times since I am going to buy the Stage 1 and small injectors today. Gauges will be installed prior and the KDP fixed but I have 230,000 miles on it and everything is original with the exception of the transmission. The air wasn't blowing real cold so I took it to a great young business man in Mobile, AL named Tony Fadalla who has helped me out numerous times and saved me money while doing it. He does it all at his shop A/C and mechanics and when you drop off a vehicle they don't go home until it is finished. Listen, I give credit where credit is due regardless of location. When a person or a member does a good turn it's my way of saying Thank you. Back on track, I'm passing this on in case someone else has the same deal going on. Everything is good with the system but not real cold air. After checking pressures and all he looked at my condenser, filthy, sprayed a solution on it to clean it and almost instantly the issue was solved. Man have i got some cold air now Thank you Tony.

 

I haven't seen very high RPMs with my automatic and I guess this is why. When I wrote Will Terry back I ask him what kind of RPMs to you achieve with the Stage 1 so this should be interesting to see. thanks Cowboy for joining in and helping me learn a little, as well as everyone else, keep it going with your donations     don't make me do it   

[Greenlee]

PDD sells GSK, the product is not listed on the web site at this time.

Edited July 24, 2015 by Greenlee

[Greenlee]

Sorry for posting the wrong story

Edited July 24, 2015 by Greenlee

[Cowboy]

The people over at PDD are great and very knowledgeable guys.  You probably already know that Will is "Big Blue24" On many forums, and is full of great knowledge.  And here is the build thread for "frankenstein" http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-performance-parts-discussion/1332233-project-leftovers-rise-frankenstein.html

 

Gauge choices are the same for 24 valve vs 12 valve.  Due to the piston lift pump on the 12 valves, there is more fuel pressure pulsation.  I personally like a mechanical fuel pressure gauge mounted like THIS as they are a little more resilient.

[Greenlee]

The people over at PDD are great and very knowledgeable guys.  You probably already know that Will is "Big Blue24" On many forums, and is full of great knowledge.  And here is the build thread for "frankenstein" http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-performance-parts-discussion/1332233-project-leftovers-rise-frankenstein.html

 

Gauge choices are the same for 24 valve vs 12 valve.  Due to the piston lift pump on the 12 valves, there is more fuel pressure pulsation.  I personally like a mechanical fuel pressure gauge mounted like THIS as they are a little more resilient.

No Cowboy I didn't know but I do know what an idiot I am at times, I had no idea how popular Will and Todd already are with the Diesel World. I just finished apologizing to them for my stupidity. Too close to call on being stupid lol. I am going to edit my previous post and forget the build. There is no telling what I screwed up explaining an already well known product. Thanks for the links, still great reading and thanks for your input and advice. I need to check things out before getting all wound up about it. Let me regroup on this one, Yep, Will and Todd have been in the Diesel business for a while and are a great resource adding quality information to the post they compose. I'm going to continue on this quest because this product is new and there are a lot of risk to any business ventures, so here goes:

 

What a great day Cowboy, I called Power Driven Diesel and spoke with Todd. He is the owner and partner of the race truck Frankenstein currently running 3 turbos all of which have their own intercoolers. Very Bad truck. To my limited understanding, the Frankenstein truck has an adjuster based on the new product that just hit the market so you can dial in the fuel needed to run consistently in the bracket of your choice. Now I am not a pro at any of this but I am confident I got it right, terms might be screwed up or a little off but right now it doesn't matter. What matters is what this product; AFC Live and how it is designed for the mechanical injector pump (P7100) found on the common12v Cummins. AFC Live Stage 2 performs both max fueling adjustment and fuel rate control just like the AFC Live Stage 1 No more manually adjusting fuel plates or star wheels, trying to dial it in like it was a couple of day ago. Back and forth from the pump to the cab to see if you’re in the ball park, Just Look At The GAUGE noting the pressure setting. All the guess work is gone forever. Want to race? Flip the 3rd switch on the AFC Live Stage 2 going to full fueling and tell me you don't like it lol. When done flip the switch back and it returns to the exact spot according to the pressure setting of the gauge. AFC Live Stage 1 and 2 are the same with the exception of the 3^rd switch and pressure gauge. Go check Will and Todd out at WWW.POWERDRIVENDIESEL.COM

Edited July 25, 2015 by Greenlee

[Greenlee]

Gauge choices are the same for 24 valve vs 12 valve.  Due to the piston lift pump on the 12 valves, there is more fuel pressure pulsation.  I personally like a mechanical fuel pressure gauge mounted like THIS as they are a little more resilient.

 

I liked the way it was mounted, pretty simple. I'll have to keep that link for reference, This post will be a little longer and I will lay out my plans for the build I am going to do.

 

Some of PDD products have not hit the market yet, GSK's for example, they have them in 3K and 4K configurations and if i am remembering right they have one that has an inner spring inside an outer spring that produces 4K RPM's and remove the inner spring dropping it to 3K. Don't quote me, I will check it out again tomorrow. DVs (delivery valves) run in various sizes giving a much better flow of fuel and gaining HP at the rear wheels. It's never too much because you control both max fueling and fuel rate. The tuned injectors that are 5 X .012 SAC 145* are perfect for someone like me who is getting into the game running a 12 valve, obtaining a gain of 155 RWHP and controllable boost with a $35 brass adjustable elbow to maintain reliability for your stock turbo. The Stage 2 is not much more than the Stage 1. Only $70 separates the two. I am excited about this product and can't wait to put it on my 12v truck. I will do my best to keep anyone who want's to know informed, sometimes being retired has it's good points.

 

I am planning a project and parts are on the way and if an old man who uses a cane can get it done so can you. I plan to document and take pictures from beginning to end. It might not be pretty but it will show the work and details. I plan on installing all the gauges first, then do a major engine clean, run a tank of fuel for mileage, and post all the parameters needed for a base line. I'm slow but determined. If you can spend $295 for the Stage 2, $400 on a set of tuned injectors, smallest on the list, and a set of DV's flowing 35cc more for $175.00 gaining 325HP to 340HP; total is up 155HP with infinite adjustments for a little over $1,000, I think it is great. I might be the only one but this is what I am planning with setting from stock to senile this is at the top of my bucket at the moment.lol. Any questions you want me to relay to PDD it would be my pleasure.

 

I guess I went a little crazy last night, all pumped up after talking with PDD. I'm going to be the test mule, Not Getting anything for free mind you when I say test mule. I ordered the Stage 2, DV's, 3K GSK, and a set of Italian Steel 5 X .012 SAC 145* injectors. I might be the only one who's going to enjoy this project. Need some opinions on gauges again, Michael is a great source but I am wondering if I should stick to all mechanical since it's a 12 valve. No big deal I want to get this done to establish my base line on EGT temperatures, fuel pressure, boost, transmission temperature. The good thing is I am not going to be driving crazy with this set up. When it's all said and done I am planning on having a good strong ride for towing and a fun ride for daily driving. I would spend a lot more than this with my 24 valve, heck your looking at $1,000 for a good tuner, $750 for injectors (I know there are cheaper ones but this is what I spent) Somewhere between $850 to $1,000 average for a good lift pump and 1/2" hoses from back to front and maybe $200 miscellaneous. If I'm off a little who cares, it's just off the top estimates. This has Winner stamped all the way across. Hey, I'm going to be asking for a lot of support with some of the off the wall questions I have so don't lay low on me now lol.

[Greenlee]

One more thing I need to ask Cowboy and any body else that can add to it. I want to make sure my truck is running close to normal. What kind of boost, fuel pressure max, transmission temp, and what are the average low and high on EGT's????? What are max high temps on EGT's???? Knowing this should help me understand my base line recordings which I have no knowledge of at all. The next 12v question is about gauges, since the 12v is mechanical do most of you stick to mechanical gauges on everything or a combination of mechanical for EGT and boost and electronic the rest of the way.

 

After market exhaust manifolds....any suggestions on what's good for the money?        Let me add an explanation around Will and Todd with PDD. I had no idea that these two fellows were so well known in the diesel world and on other forums. I talked to Todd for awhile about the products and their new business adventure, honestly thought this was two business partners that came up with an absolute revolutionary development for the 12v diesel. Even with my limited knowledge I could see a brand new beginning of AFC Live for the mechanical P7100 injection pump. The explanation of how it worked in addition to the Stages, DV's, G springs, and injectors just clicked for me. I thought I could help put the word out for the new product and you can tell I was excited about doing so. I was embarrassed at my level of expertise compared to Will and Todd thinking I was putting a plug in on the AFC Live. The thought hit me that I could be completely backwards and I misrepresented both Will and Todd and their efforts to launch a brand new company and the risk of a new business venture. So thinking this I apologized to PDD and removed what I had posted. 

Long story short Will emailed me, said he had read the posts and liked them. Didn't understand why I would remove them. Again he explained the necessity of customers putting out reviews to help to help build any new business. I am just a simple minded diesel lover who committed to myself never going back to a Gasser. This all considered and knowing PDD was not alarmed about my enthusiasm I had for explaining and buying the AFC Stage 2 and accessories to have a safe build.

So, I did a little editing and put the original posts back. I was not going to put this simple build up but now I am. I wouldn't do anything to insult a single member on this Forum. What better place to show a build a let the members in on it, keeping it on track and getting all the expertise of the forum members to do it right. I believe in this product, no strings attached with PDD or  Will and Todd for any of it. I saw something I could do for a change even with the physical handicaps I deal with daily. It gets old depending on friends or family to bail you out working on your vehicle, heck I don't want advertise what I am doing and have to explain it to my wife lol. I'm sure no one else feels like this.

 

So fellow members, I am asking for any and all input and suggestions to get these parts in having a successful project. Thanks to all.

Edited July 26, 2015 by Greenlee

[Cowboy]

On boost and EGT, you'd pick the same as you would with a 12 valve or 24 valve.  Honestly, I'm  not sure if they make a mechanical EGT gauge.  If you do go with an electric boost gauge, make sure to isolate the sender, as well as install some sort of snubber.  With my digital gauge, I noticed a lot of "water hammer" that a analog gauge probably wouldn't show.

 

Cummins specs for fuel pressure is 17-22 idle, 25-35 WOT.  The P7100 is a little more flexible with fuel pressures, anything below 60 psi is safe.  EDIT: Pressure shouldn't get below the factory spec, just for performance sake.

 

For your truck, stock boost should be around 18 psi.  

With my stock 215 hp truck, max EGT's I saw were 1100* but that was full throttle above 2500 RPM for an extended period of time.  If you just punch it, they were around 900*.

[Greenlee]

On boost and EGT, you'd pick the same as you would with a 12 valve or 24 valve.  Honestly, I'm  not sure if they make a mechanical EGT gauge.  If you do go with an electric boost gauge, make sure to isolate the sender, as well as install some sort of snubber.  With my digital gauge, I noticed a lot of "water hammer" that a analog gauge probably wouldn't show.

 

Cummins specs for fuel pressure is 17-22 idle, 25-35 WOT.  The P7100 is a little more flexible with fuel pressures, anything below 60 psi is safe.

 

For your truck, stock boost should be around 18 psi.  

With my stock 215 hp truck, max EGT's I saw were 1100* but that was full throttle above 2500 RPM for an extended period of time.  If you just punch it, they were around 900*.

You are right again Cowboy, I don't why I was thinking of an electronic gauge. I checked for prices at Parleys Diesel Performance and got a price on Auto Meter gauges. I don't think the range of pressure is right for the fuel. Here's what they sent me on pricing, it's seems to match several vendors on line penny for penny.

 

0-1600 EGT (Electric) $199.99

http://www.parleysdieselperformance.com/products/auto-meter-dodge-3rd-gen-factory-match-egt-pyrometer-gauge-0-1600-degrees-8544

 

0-30 PSI Fuel Pressure (Electric) $232.33

http://www.parleysdieselperformance.com/products/auto-meter-dodge-3rd-gen-factory-match-fuel-pressure-gauge-0-30-psi-8560

 

0-60 PSI Boost (Mechanical) $79.99   (There's also a 0-35 PSI available for the same price)

http://www.parleysdieselperformance.com/products/auto-meter-dodge-3rd-gen-factory-match-boost-gauge-0-60-psi-8505

 

Transmission Temp Gauge (Electric) $82.10

http://www.parleysdieselperformance.com/products/auto-meter-dodge-3rd-gen-factory-match-transmission-temperature-gauge-100-250-degrees-8549

 

Triple Pillar Mount  $77.69

http://www.parleysdieselperformance.com/products/auto-meter-triple-pillar-gauge-mount-for-1998-2002-dodge-ram-without-speaker-17203

 

Single Steering Column Mount  $37.50

We don't have this part on our site, but do have several in stock.

 

Grand total: $709.60

 

I think this is average pricing for gauges. One reason I didn't see a better deal as a forum member is since they joined the forum as a vender they have had 1 member call and buy something. Now if the pricing is not right I can't blame anyone for moving on and finding a better deal. I thought our vendors would give us a good reason to jump on board and bring up sales when we can, but when I look at 2 or 3 other vendors with the same online price, it doesn't matter who you buy from at all unless you are a dedicated customer. I can understand about forum donations, times are not easy for anyone, you don't want to throw your money away but just a little bit from everybody would add up fast so it's the same principle with a vendor, a little break on pricing once in a while gives us a better reason to buy.

 

I think it's great that we have a good group of vendors advertising and keeping us informed. On the other foot looking at the responsibility of the vendor for support adds up too. They pay a reasonable yearly fee to put their adds up and frankly it's a tremendous shot in the arm financially when we don't do our part and support " Mopar1973Man.com " Forum with donations. The only reason I bring this up is it's got me thinking what amount I am going to pay for gauges and mounts on a 1998 Dodge Cummins. It also makes me wonder what actions does this forum need to perform that would inspire it's members to give. What holds you back or better yet, what's holding us all back?????????  On the same note what do we need to do for the best deals with our vendors? Submit a wish list that would go to all of our vendors first so we can generate the business needed to keep our vendors on board. This would not be a bidding war pitting one store against the other, it would be a simple inquiry for a bottom line price.

 

If we don't support this forum it could disappear like it almost did, but now that the work load is distributed amongst the volunteers up the ladder it's given Michael the opportunity to take the steps to stay on line. I think it takes some smart individuals way above my pay grade to do this. We all need a win win situation especially owning Diesels. Maybe we can put some thought into this figure out something that isn't being done  Heck, if we get a price break and check with all of our vendors first, And our vendors currently advertising can generate a ton of new business with our members only....or any New, Members that are regular monthly Donators...  that want to join all the other regular dedicated Mopar members that also donate every month. I don't have a clue in regards to how many registered members we have and I don't know who gives what and it doesn't bother me to tell anyone what I give on a regular basis or what I have done to support this forum.

 

Am I rich or something, not if you depend on Social Security and a SMALL pension. My wife and I have worked hard to get the bills behind us and a budget in front so we can enjoy life a little, and not to my liking but my wife of 43 years still holds down a job to support the household. I have never known a stranger but always had the good sense to stay away from those who make trouble. My diesel education has come basically from this forum, it's well appreciated membership, and Michael Nelson who made the mistake of putting his notes on line for the world to see, a big mistake because it was all by accident, personally the best mistake I have ever witnessed. I'm not a pretty cheer leader, believe me it's hard to say that I even come close, but I have put my  in, my bucket list changed here lately.

 

I have one thing at the top of the list. Please God the Father, God the Lord Jesus Christ, and God the Holy Spirit with all my heart and soul. Next is Please my Wife at ALL times and make her happy and safe, Pray and support all of my grown children and grandchildren, family, and friends and never forget to pray and support our military. Show mercy to others with no limit because my God shows me Mercy continually every moment,  the next item is Learn as much about Cummins Diesels with the 24v & 12v as possible with any amount of time I have left on this earth, take that skill and build a great running 12v. No need listing the rest, this is enough to keep my going for awhile.

 

I'm easy but not soft on issues that matter, If I spoke out of turn tonight I make no apology, this strictly my opinion. I can remove post as quickly as I put it up and continue my support of this Forum in private. 

 

Back on the subject, it looks like I need a Fuel Pressure Gauge that goes up to 60 psi.   Todd at PDD mentioned that the stock turbo wouldn't last 6 months hitting boost pressures of 32 psi. That's what the adjustable boost elbow  was for, better drive-ability to limit boost somewhere in the high 20s until you can get an after market turbo. EGT temperatures are something I need to take your word on, I can't even recall what my 06 Duramax EGT's were. A different animal all together. This truck will run much better than it looks. I am hoping to accomplish a couple of things, Fuel Mileage and Drive-ability. I can't say I have seen very many powerful 12v's in my neck of the woods, who knows it might catch on      

[Cowboy]

I'm all about supporting the vendors on here, I've purchased a couple things from them on here even though I could have saved a couple bucks.

 

You will need a different fuel pressure gauge, 60 psi minimum.

I'd stick with the 60 psi boost gauge, keeps your options open in the future.

 

My prayers are about the same as yours, though my #2 is to just be able to keep mine running.   lol

[Greenlee]

I'm all about supporting the vendors on here, I've purchased a couple things from them on here even though I could have saved a couple bucks.

 

You will need a different fuel pressure gauge, 60 psi minimum.

I'd stick with the 60 psi boost gauge, keeps your options open in the future.

 

My prayers are about the same as yours, though my #2 is to just be able to keep mine running.   lol

I agree Cowboy we should all support our vendors especially when the give us support by advertising on the forum and Technical advice if needed. I'm just talking off the cuff hoping some good ideas might come out of it. 60 psi is it then. and I was off on the boost level, PDD sent an email with the correct boost settings, "boost ranges for an hx35.  Over 42 psi will give very short turbo life.  36 psi and under is a safe zone". This makes better sense and I appreciated the correction to pass on. I'm happy your are a man who believes in God, I'd like to share some testimonies in a private email or with anyone else who wants to listen. I didn't get this far in life by myself, it is the Mercy of God.

 

I'm sure you truck runs great and you must be a top notch mechanic like some of the other members. I planned this build long before I owned a 12v, now I didn't have a clue what was going into the build but I did start a nest egg to put some money into. I'm a little short on my goals but there is plenty to prepare for ahead of time. The end results I'm looking at is a successful build with the truck to prove and sharing all the steps taken to install the PDD's products. I hope to be at another level on Diesel comprehension.

 

One thing I was told my Michael was some of the original injector pumps can rack up mileage into 6 figures, He said one even made past 1,000,000 miles. Man does that make a 12v owner feel great

Edited July 26, 2015 by Greenlee

[Greenlee]

Hey everyone, a couple of questions about my new 12v. I guess it hasn't been driven in a long time. I've burned one tank of fuel and have 3/8 of a tank left. First tank yielded 14.87 mpg. On the second fill up I added 2 stroke oil, same mix as the 24 valve, 1 oz of oil to every gallon of fuel. My mileage is ranging about 9 mpg to 11 mpg. The only other change is the transmission now downshifts when you slow down and accelerate which really improved getting around. The transmission shifts good, no hesitation or slippage at all. I still have a shudder at times putting it in Reverse and Drive but it doesn't last or it reduces to the point I don't notice it at all. I bought filters and oil to make sure the fuel filter is doing it's job and not clogged. I would like to change the exhaust manifold or pull it off and clean it if someone can tell me is the flow good for being stock. With the 24v I was told that a lot of the after marker items like air horn intake can't help you until you get upwards of 500 horses. Not saying it doesn't add anything until that point but most of the benefits are at WOT. It's a tough engine no doubt and I don't have any problems working on it other than being slow but I can call of my son to do the work for me if I have to. Should I change filters and fluids and go for more readings or does anybody know something else that's connected to the fuel system. Thanks   

Edited July 30, 2015 by Greenlee

[Cowboy]

Getting a fuel pressure gauge would be recommended.

 

If you've got a stock exhaust system, the catalytic converter can get clogged after a lot of easy driving.  To clean it, simply drive it like you stole it.

 

The stock exhaust manifold should work well for you.  Aftermarket manifolds do have advantages, but also have disadvantages.  The stock ones do like to shrink, so make sure yours isn't leaking or cracked.

[Cowboy]

I agree Cowboy we should all support our vendors especially when the give us support by advertising on the forum and Technical advice if needed. I'm just talking off the cuff hoping some good ideas might come out of it. 60 psi is it then. and I was off on the boost level, PDD sent an email with the correct boost settings, "boost ranges for an hx35.  Over 42 psi will give very short turbo life.  36 psi and under is a safe zone". This makes better sense and I appreciated the correction to pass on. I'm happy your are a man who believes in God, I'd like to share some testimonies in a private email or with anyone else who wants to listen. I didn't get this far in life by myself, it is the Mercy of God.

 

I'm sure you truck runs great and you must be a top notch mechanic like some of the other members. I planned this build long before I owned a 12v, now I didn't have a clue what was going into the build but I did start a nest egg to put some money into. I'm a little short on my goals but there is plenty to prepare for ahead of time. The end results I'm looking at is a successful build with the truck to prove and sharing all the steps taken to install the PDD's products. I hope to be at another level on Diesel comprehension.

 

One thing I was told my Michael was some of the original injector pumps can rack up mileage into 6 figures, He said one even made past 1,000,000 miles. Man does that make a 12v owner feel great

 

Sorry, I somehow missed replying to this.

 

Thank you for clearing that up, I thought 32 psi sounded really low.

 

God has a uncanny sense of humor, so yes it does run, but that's about it. lol

 

There's been more then one P-pump that made it past 1,000,000 miles.  GAmes on CumminsForum is one of those owners, he's at about 1.2 million, had to rebuild the engine at 800,000 miles due to more then normal oil consumption.

[Greenlee]

Getting a fuel pressure gauge would be recommended.

 

If you've got a stock exhaust system, the catalytic converter can get clogged after a lot of easy driving.  To clean it, simply drive it like you stole it.

 

The stock exhaust manifold should work well for you.  Aftermarket manifolds do have advantages, but also have disadvantages.  The stock ones do like to shrink, so make sure yours isn't leaking or cracked.

Exhaust system is stock. I didn't know it had a catalytic converter, is it built into the muffler under or near the passenger side? On a diesel what purpose does it serve? I appreciate the tip on the exhaust manifold too. It seems intact at the moment, if I can find any information on what an aftermarket exhaust manifold will do in place of the stock one that would help me pick up a little HP or mileage I would have a good reason to change it out.

 

I'll try running it hard like your saying, After I fueled up this afternoon it came to 12 mpg. Way off compared to what I think it should be.

[Greenlee]

Sorry, I somehow missed replying to this.

 

Thank you for clearing that up, I thought 32 psi sounded really low.

 

God has a uncanny sense of humor, so yes it does run, but that's about it. lol

 

There's been more then one P-pump that made it past 1,000,000 miles.  GAmes on CumminsForum is one of those owners, he's at about 1.2 million, had to rebuild the engine at 800,000 miles due to more then normal oil consumption.

It's hard to believe an injector pump can go that far. I'll check it out on GAmes. My ABS, and Brake lights came on when I was coming to a stop. Surprised me for a second, didn't think I was going to stop. After putting Fuel in and cranking it the lights went out but I drove easy in case it happened again. I need to look on the posts listed and see if anyone else has had this happen. I've got to see if I can use a new code reader or not. have a blessed week end.

[Cowboy]

Exhaust system is stock. I didn't know it had a catalytic converter, is it built into the muffler under or near the passenger side? On a diesel what purpose does it serve? I appreciate the tip on the exhaust manifold too. It seems intact at the moment, if I can find any information on what an aftermarket exhaust manifold will do in place of the stock one that would help me pick up a little HP or mileage I would have a good reason to change it out.

 

I'll try running it hard like your saying, After I fueled up this afternoon it came to 12 mpg. Way off compared to what I think it should be.

 

The catalytic converter is right in front of the muffler (PIC).  With your build, and MPG's being important, I would either straight pipe your 3" exhaust, or get an aftermarket 4" system.  If you don't like being to loud, and aftermarket resonator should work well without being restrictive.  I've got a 3" system on mine with a stock resonator from a 24 valve, the resonator is straight through 3" so I can't imagine it being to restrictive, and it cut down on the noise considerably.

 

You have to take whatever you read from the exhaust manifold dealers website with a grain of salt.  As far as deciding which one, I would stick with the forums to find reviews.

[Greenlee]

The catalytic converter is right in front of the muffler (PIC).  With your build, and MPG's being important, I would either straight pipe your 3" exhaust, or get an aftermarket 4" system.  If you don't like being to loud, and aftermarket resonator should work well without being restrictive.  I've got a 3" system on mine with a stock resonator from a 24 valve, the resonator is straight through 3" so I can't imagine it being to restrictive, and it cut down on the noise considerably.

 

You have to take whatever you read from the exhaust manifold dealers website with a grain of salt.  As far as deciding which one, I would stick with the forums to find reviews.

Good advice, I'm not getting carried away with the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe all the way back, your way sounds like the best way right now. Guess this post is all used up and should be put to rest. I'm not sure if anything else can be discussed. I'm sorry for bring up the vendor and donation stuff, hope I didn't put you in the middle of any of it. My parts from PDD are on the way. Need to get the gauges lined up, mechanical for the boost, electronic for the EGTs. Need to research the rest online to make a decision. Brake lights on dash came on during a sudden stop, Brakes & ABS with the truck stopping hard and shaky. Turned it off and restarted and it all cleared out. I'm adding it to my list regardless. I want to post all that it takes to add the PDD miracle AFC Live Stage 2 Tuner and additional items to help the engine out, DVs, Injectors, and 3,000 Gov. Spring. An honest evaluation of the product completely unbiased on my part but by the time I get done with it, drive my truck and play with the setting to record the infinite adjustments that come with the package.   

[Greenlee]

Another 12v problem has come up. My fuel gauge in the cab has gone on the blink. 95% of the time the needle goes all the way to FULL and does not fall back to indicate any readings on the gauge. I have estimated my mileage and use my trip mileage to figure out how many approximate gallons I have used. This is not a big deal with the exception of still not able to do any of my own work. Healing process is slow, instead of ordering stock parts for the next surgery I am going to look at the Performance Parts and get up running lol. If anyone can give me some ideas on what I should check and what's involved to correct the fuel gauge. It will give me some ideal what to tell the shop that has been doing my work for now.

Cowboy, that's a great avatar picture of you. I need to find one illustrating a older version.

I hope all of you were blessed during the Thanksgiving and Christmas Holidays into the New Year and as always I appreciate all of the advice and encouragement that is offered to all that belong to this Forum. I don't mind the donations at all, I have always paid in the past to put a vehicle on a test stand to chase a problem down so why not pay a little to keep this Forum going and updated for years to come. Look at the benefits we reap, all the Threads & Posts that are not only informative but illustrated or in video to help us gain knowledge on all the Great Cummins Trucks we drive and maintain, all I can say is Priceless.