Multiple A/C parts replaced now what about PAG Oil

[01_USACummins]

So I pretty much replaced the entire A/C system and when I put the new compressor in I put  around 7..5 ounces of PAG 100 in. My questition is should I have put oil in each new component I put in or just put the proper amount in the compressor and roll on? 

[Mopar1973Man]

Normally I just load the compressor and roll on with it. As soon as the compressor starts pumping it will push the oil around the system itself.

[IBMobile]

STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFRIGERANT OIL

LEVEL   ( 2001 Dodge service manual page24-57)

When an air conditioning system is assembled at

the factory, all components except the compressor are

refrigerant oil free. After the refrigerant system has

been charged and operated, the refrigerant oil in the

compressor is dispersed throughout the refrigerant

system.

 

Refrigerant Oil Capacities

Component ml fl oz

A/C System 210 6.2

Accumulator 60 2

Condenser 30 1

Evaporator 60 2

Compressor drain and measure the oil from the old

compressor - see text.

 

Put  6.2fl oz into an empty compressor, evacuate the air in the system and recharge

[Mopar1973Man]

Might have to double check like my compressor states a larger amount. Like right on the Sanden compressor is a label stating 220 cc of PAG100 oil which works out to 7.43 ounces.

[IBMobile]

The dodge service manual says 6.2 oz, ALLDATA says 6.2 oz, Tech Choice parts oil capacity chart says 6.25 oz.,  the side of a compressor says 7.43 oz.

 

STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFRIGERANT OIL

LEVEL   ( 2001 Dodge service manual page24-57)

 "It is important to have the correct amount of oil in

the refrigerant system. This ensures proper lubrication

of the compressor. Too little oil will result in

damage to the compressor. Too much oil will reduce

the cooling capacity of the air conditioning system."

 

 

[Mopar1973Man]

I figured the compressor manufacture would know what amount of oil should in the compressor.

[dripley]

That does leave a little bit of confusion. Mine system is going to be renewed soon so which way to go, 7oz and split the difference?

[IBMobile]

The vehicle manufacture designed the AC system with a known oil capacity.  The AC compressor manufacture builds the parts to the vehicle manufacture's specification.

3 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I figured the compressor manufacture would know what amount of oil should in the compressor.

The 6.2 oz is not the amount of oil in just the compressor but the whole system. That's why when you replace just the compressor the old compressor must be drained of oil and the amount measured.  If you drain 3 oz out, put 3 oz of fresh oil into the new compressor.

2 hours ago, dripley said:

That does leave a little bit of confusion. Mine system is going to be renewed soon so which way to go, 7oz and split the difference?

"Too little oil will result in damage to the compressor. Too much oil will reduce

the cooling capacity of the air conditioning system."

A little to much is better than not enough.

[Mopar1973Man]

I understand the concept of displacement the oil causes just strange that there is such a variance in number. Since I normally don't have every single service for every vehicle on the highway I have to work on. I typically fall back on the compressor manufacture listings.

 

[dripley]

Mine has been out of service for a while and was thinking of this replacement. http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5245524&cc=1440064&jsn=10464&jsn=10464&jsn=10464. Not sure anything is wrong with my compressor but the line has a large hole worn into it. Either of you have any experience with the Four Seasons brand?

[IBMobile]

I've heard of them but don't think I've ever used that brand.  I use mostly the Valeo brand for the Volvos I work on. 

Does it come with new O-rings or do you have to get the separately?    $180.99 is a cheap price. I'd be look on line for some 3ed party review.  I found one review where a shop in Texas said they had a bad batch of compressors for the GM models. 

 Read the warranty info, any manufacture will want proof of a system flush.

[Mopar1973Man]

2 hours ago, IBMobile said:

Read the warranty info, any manufacture will want proof of a system flush.

 

Some manufactures will require replacement of some parts like Ford wants a new condenser installed and a flush performed.

 

2 hours ago, IBMobile said:

Does it come with new O-rings or do you have to get the separately?

 

Be careful. I've had some A/C parts come with O-rings but must of been pretty cheap about it being some o-ring are malformed or just out right wrong size. I typically carry a bag of spare O-rings for this reason. I was called to the local body shop to do a recharge on a Infinity. Wouldn't hold a vacuum. I asked the body man what he replaced and separated. Come to find out the condenser o-rings where the wrong size and not sealing. Same shop again called to charge a Dodge Ram and the condenser flare for the quick connect was malformed and wouldn't couple. Using my small file on my multi-tool shaped the flare and got it coupled up. So be aware of parts the good ol' China made stuff is really missing the Q & A process.

Edited April 30, 2016 by Mopar1973Man

[dripley]

The warranty requires receipts for all new parts and flush fluid or a work order showing the flush was done. It is a 24 month or 24k mile warranty which equals about a year for me.

 

That particular set does not come with the o rings but the do have a kit that has the o rings, sealing washers and such for $22. http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3290952&cc=1440064&jsn=10485&jsn=10485&jsn=10485

 

My old one never failed. After I replaced the evaporator I had some money issues and never got to complete the repair. I also misplaced the connectors and have since found them. Thats when I discovered the low pressure line had been rubbing and wore a hole in the line. I left every thing sealed up and pulled the relay on the clutch so it s been sitting like that for 3 years. Thats the reason I was thinking of new parts. Not sure what kind of shape anything is in now.

[01_USACummins]

Alright guys so I filled the system with about 2.5 12oz cans and checked my pressures they are reading 30psi low side and 200 hi side. It's 80 degrees outside with 56% humidity today here in NC. Sound a little low on 134? Center vent temperature reads 45-40 degrees. My compressor stays locked I only hear it click when I initially turn on the ac after the truck has started. 

[Mopar1973Man]

Typically I run the low side upwards of 35 PSI. Next step I do is rev the engine up to 1,500 to 1,700 on the diesel and watch the pressures again. It should still stay locked on the clutch and the low side should hover near 30 PSI. Last time I checked I drive my truck with the A/C not sit around idling in parking lots. So I check the pressure like it would be if driven. The only problem is if it hot out the high side will climb quickly so your reading will vary some but if the pressure is falling out and cycling the compressor while driving then the performance is less than optimal.

 

Pressure wise you want the low side above freezing. So look at the inner ring it will show the R134a discharge temperature in theory. So typically you want a system that sweats heavy but doesn't freeze. That what the low side switch does is shut down the compressor if the pressure fall too low on the lo side causing freeze ups of the evaporator. So to prevent freeze up the low side pressure has to be higher. As the lo side increases in pressure the discharge temperature get warmer. So that why the 30-35 PSI numbers I use because the Dodge lo side switch cuts out typically about 25 PSI. There is my little secret.

 

 

Edited May 1, 2016 by Mopar1973Man

[01_USACummins]

So I hooked the gauges back up it was still at 30psi low side and 200 high side. I revved the truck up to 1700rpms and the low side pressure dropped to 25psi and then the compressor clicked and it went up and hit 40 clicked again and dropped back down to 25psi. I'm confused too much freon or not enough? Also I am confused about using the gauges after I hook the gauges up and take them off the truck there is freon in the high side and low side lines. How do I purge the lines to put that back in the truck? Just open the manifold up like I was adding freon?

[Mopar1973Man]

52 minutes ago, 01_USACummins said:

So I hooked the gauges back up it was still at 30psi low side and 200 high side. I revved the truck up to 1700rpms and the low side pressure dropped to 25psi and then the compressor clicked and it went up and hit 40 clicked again and dropped back down to 25psi.

 

If it hit 25 PSI and clicked out its too low yet. Need to add a bit more shouldn't be cycling the compressor on hot day. I normal do my recharging in the heat of the day.

 

52 minutes ago, 01_USACummins said:

Also I am confused about using the gauges after I hook the gauges up and take them off the truck there is freon in the high side and low side lines. How do I purge the lines to put that back in the truck?

 

That simple. Just shut down the truck and let it balance out. The hi side hose will have liquid freon in it. When it balances out the liquid will return to the system. The lo side hose typically just freon gas and very little will be lost. After I allowed it to balance and equalize I uncouple and vent the pressure off my hose at the manifold.

Edited May 1, 2016 by Mopar1973Man