Steering upgrade

[leathermaneod]

lol ok I'll look into it at least. Definitely gona need more guidance before I mess with the airbag though lol. It's not worth having my airbag light on after just to avoid a little grinding. What exactly does re clicking the wheel do?

Edited July 5, 2016 by leathermaneod

[TFaoro]

You want to have some sort of adjustment though... You don't want it maxed out all the time. Airbags really are nothing to worry about as long as the system is discharged.

[leathermaneod]

But isn't it easy to mess things up with the clock spring? And what exactly does re clocking the wheel do? Like are you just pulling the wheel and putting it on a few degrees on way or the other so the pitman arm is canted to one side then or what? Sorry but I am totally ignorant on this lol

And wouldn't that throw off the number of lock to lock turns one way or the other? Like I said I'm totally ignorant on this but it just seems better to leave the steering as it is and make the parts fit if possible. Again I dont know what I'm doing, and I definitely want to learn and do this right, just don't wanna cause any bigger issues in the process.

[Buzzinhalfdozen]

I'll try to break down what TFaoro is saying. 

First make sure you have some adjustment left on the drag link adjuster. Don't need much, a few turns rotates the steering wheel quite a bit. 

 

Set the tires pointing straight, pop off the steering wheel off and put it back on straight. You can fine tune it with the drag link adjuster. 

 

If you're only moving the wheel a few splines it shouldn't bother the clock spring. 

 

It wont mess with the turns lock to lock, that's all in the steering gear box. 

 

Only possible issue I can see is I thought the wheel was indexed so you can only put it on every 90*, kind of like a pitman arm. 

Edited July 5, 2016 by Buzzinhalfdozen

[leathermaneod]

Thanks for breaking that down @Buzzinhalfdozen! Like I said I have no idea what I'm doing in this situation so this is very helpful! Now if the wheel is indexed, can I just move it 90* and then adjust it back with the drag link? or will that be too much for the clock spring?

 

Ok so I was just reading the FSM and this is looking simpler. Especially with your explanation Buzzinhalfdozen. Thanks again for that! Now my only concern is that I don't turn anything too far for the clock spring. Is it possible to do that with everything hooked up? I know the usual time guys mess it up is with the steering shaft disconnected...if I wait to make any adjustment till everything is back together I should be ok. Or no? I just want to make sure I know as much as possible before diving into this. Especially since I will be making a 300 mile trip home to PA to get the truck inspected a few days after this lol

 

Guys I don't think this is gona work....this dude claims it only goes on one way....

 

So I just read this and my heart sank....starting to think this is going to be a lot more customizing than I thought....I'll just have to see how it looks once I have the kit in hand.

On June 30, 2016 at 1:18 PM, TFaoro said:

For those who see this thread and do some off-roading, I would definitely recommend having some sort of leveling kit or cutting the stud off of pitman arm joint. On a stock height truck, a couple inches of deflection will cause the stud to hit the bar that runs between the two knuckles.

Do yo happen to have a picture showing this?

Edited July 5, 2016 by leathermaneod

[TFaoro]

No... I didn't take a picture of my buddies when it was sitting stock height. Take the pictures the guys have posted in here and drop it down two inches. Cutting it off may stop the problem completely, but I'm not sure of that.

[notlimah]

@leathermaneod I think your best bet is to see if you can get the kit to fit since it's already on the way. Or read through that thread on CF or post and ask if it'll work with stock wheels stock ride height. That might make things easier then speculating or hoping it'll fit. Maybe someone there already knows the answe so if that answer is no you can just return it without worrying about trying to test fit without messing my up so you can still return it.

 

In other news... I went for a drive today and the truck does feel a lot smoother and a little easier to drive. I still have steering wheel play which has to be from my steering box. As far tightening that, do I really just tighten the one bolt on top a 1/4 turn or so and that's it? What exactly is that bolt doing?

[TFaoro]

57 minutes ago, notlimah said:

Maybe someone there already knows the answe so if that answer is no you can just return it without worrying about trying to test fit without messing my up so you can still return it.

 

Yes it will fit.

May need to trim the pitman arm stud to prevent it from hitting down lower on the link between the two knuckles.

May need to trim the joints at the knuckles to prevent the stud from hitting the stock rims.

 

Neither are a big deal though. Put it on, trim it, and roll on.

[leathermaneod]

I'm not worried about the ends, just the pitman arm stud. How much do you think I will have to trim it? I'm just hoping I dont have to cut the hex portion totally off as I'm afraid I wont be able to get it tight without that...then again, I dont off road a lot so maybe it wont be an issue....

 

@TFaoro what do you think about the drag link adjustment after seeing that vid? Doesnt seem like you can adjust the wheel...

[TFaoro]

I haven't been able to watch it. I will when I get home. I know my buddy did it on his 01 so it is possible....

[leathermaneod]

Oh ok, well maybe they can be either way then. Some only go on one way, others can be any way. You dont happen to know the build date on his do you?

 

I was just reading some more about this stuff and saw some of the recall stuff from back in 2014 and 2015. Hopefully thats not an issue anymore with so many revisions of this stuff? did you guys hear anything about all that in your research on this, and wether or not its fixed for good?

Edited July 5, 2016 by leathermaneod

[notlimah]

For piece of mind I only needed to use a 10mm on ththe tie rod stud for the first bit of tightening. After that I could just tighten down the bolt without holding the hex end

[notlimah]

Forgot to mention @BIG-BLACK-DODGE 

 

I didnt have have any clunk when turning on the new setup. What did you torque the tre's too?

[BIG-BLACK-DODGE]

20 minutes ago, notlimah said:

Forgot to mention @BIG-BLACK-DODGE 

 

I didnt have have any clunk when turning on the new setup. What did you torque the tre's too?

They're on there tight but not too tight. I never actually torqued them. Just did it by feel. 

If u grab the msin tie rod and pull it forward and back do u hear a tiny clunk? It looks like very slight play on the passenger side. 

[notlimah]

Yea *TINY* clunk. Seems like it's coming from the tie rid connecting the drag link to the main tie rod. I had to pull pretty hard to get the noise. I can't hear it in cab.

 

I torqued them to 80ft/lbs as per the FSM.

[BIG-BLACK-DODGE]

1 minute ago, notlimah said:

Yea *TINY* clunk. Seems like it's coming from the tie rid connecting the drag link to the main tie rod. I had to pull pretty hard to get the noise. I can't hear it in cab.

 

I torqued them to 80ft/lbs as per the FSM.

 

Ya it's the same noise i have....???? Oh well at least we both have it! Lol

 

P.S- i tried to measure that spacer for the steering shock but can't find my other one i had??

anyway just measure yours up to see what you need and hopefully you'll find one.

So what steering did you have on your truck? The y or T? Mine had the latest update and this one is basically the same just much larger in diameter and the pivot point where the drag link goes up to the pitman arm is closer to the passenger wheel so i think that plays a roll on how it steers. Mine just seems to turn easier now...?? And i thought i read someone else that thought theirs did too.

I gotta get that steering box tightened up or get a new box. And definately getting that DOR brace after seeing how vulnerable that steering box shaft looks. 

I looked at my pitman arm and i swear it has a slight bend to it.. Is yours like that? It's really hard to notice. I'll post a pic. 

 

 

It's really hard to get a photo of it... Check yours out if u don't mind and let me know. 

Oh and one other thing with these trucks that wander all over the road like mine. I'm starting to see a pattern here. I drove a 2001 3500 Dually, and this was before I knew anything about second Gens and I honestly don't remember the steering being bad at all.

 My buddy has a 96 it's a long box as well and he says his steers awesome ...  Seems like it's a short box trucks that have all the issues. 

[notlimah]

No worries on the spacer for the steering stab. I'm going to have to get a whole new one if I'm going to run one so I'll probably get a 4th gen one so it should fit right up to the mount already on there.

 

Before I upgraded I had the stock Y style steering on there, and the TREs were really worn out. I'm not sure mine turns easier, I'm running pretty big tires so maybe that's why, but it does steer nicer than before.

 

Your pic looks normal to me. Mine is hard to see at that same angle since I already have the steering box brace, but the thread end of the TRE does stick out slight skewed and not right at a 90* straight edge from the pitman arm.

 

I'm not sure on the trend of loose steering trucks. Mine is a long bed and when it was completely stock, it wondered pretty good. I definitely had to keep two hands on the wheels around corners and stuff to help with the correcting. Now with a DOR track bar, steering box brace and updated steering links, it's a whole lot better. Still not %100 but leaps and bounds better then stock. On the other hand, my 2wd short box is completely stock as far as steering goes and drives straight as an arrow.

Edited July 6, 2016 by notlimah

[BIG-BLACK-DODGE]

You think the fourth gen will be the same length etc?? And where it mounts to the diff the end of the shock will have to be the same. 

Just something to think about. 

Mine bolted right in just needed that spacer for the bolt on the steering. I'm prettysure the Rancho shock i have came with it..

actuy maybe it's the same shock for 2nd and 4 th gen and that's why they give u the extra sleeve?? Would make sense. 

 

 

I have always heard how that steering brace makes all the difference so lets hope so... 

[notlimah]

Yea the length should be the same. If not the mount on the main tie rod seems like it's adjustable so that would solve that.

 

I was looking through cjcoffoads website and they list the bilstein steering stabilizer for 94-12 trucks. They should be fine, as long as the end that mounts into the tie rod clamp fits.

[BIG-BLACK-DODGE]

I wonder if this is my wandering problem.. I remember seeing this video when i first got the truck a year ago. 

 

I googled it and there's a few articles claiming that it cures death wobble but i'm not sure about that....

 

47 modifications later my steering will be tight lol

Just checked mine and it has maybe 1/16" play. When i turn the shaft from under the hood my steering wheel turns with it. My play has to be in that steering box.