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11 hours ago, totally lost said:

Not to mention it is rare i find any of these dodges run 245 even when they was on the dealer lots waiting for there first owner!

Early series came with 245's. Then everyone want big tires hence why the door stick still remains showing the 245's but upgraded to 265's. Which mine came with. On snow and ice the 265's were ice skates. The 235's I ran for year I could run foot deep snow at 60 MPH no problem. 245's kind of different problem smaller tire give more torque to the ground so it really easy to get it break loose on snow or ice but with a modified quad tune not an issue. 

 

Axles might be rated for much more everything start to degrade more. Suspension parts, handling, track bar, shocks, brakes, etc. Yes I've cross over heavy several time being I'm registered to haul up to 26,000 pound. I've done hay hauls, hauling backhoes, etc. Now more the old wood trailer 7,000 pounds and just my 8,500 pound RV. Another that was a heavy haul was Cajflynn hauling boat around the east side weighing in at 28k to 32k boats. Big! Hence what I know about heavy haul and the damages it did to his truck on a daily basis. Seem like all his photos where tiny pics and now gone. 

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I am on my second set of Toyo open country AT's. The first set were AT2's that i got about 45,000 out of and never had any kind of issue. I just recently got a new set and went with the AT3's that just came out. They arent quite as good as a mud tire in deep snow or mud but i have never got stuck. The only time i really drive my truck is when i am towing my trailer or boat or going up in the mountains. I am definitely not easy on my tires at all and have been really impressed with them. Before i went to the Toyo's i had Pro Comp xtreme AT's and cooper mud terrains. I might have had a little better traction but around half the life and i got flats with both of those.

 

Also when talking tire size, the only thing you are telling anyone when you say 235, 245, 285 or whatever is how wide they are. It takes the whole size including the wheel size to get a height from metric sizes. My 285/75R18's are 35x11.3. A 285/75R16 is about a 33x11.3. 

 

I have had a leveling kit and a 35" tire on my truck for over 100,000 miles and probably 15 years. Yes you have to make sure your castor and alignment and suspension components are good as any small issue is going to be amplified and more noticeable when you increase tire size. 

 

This is a picture of one of my AT2's around 45,000 when i took them off.

20200610_115326.jpg

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2 hours ago, tony.canto said:

I am on my second set of Toyo open country AT's. The first set were AT2's that i got about 45,000 out of and never had any kind of issue. I just recently got a new set and went with the AT3's that just came out. They arent quite as good as a mud tire in deep snow or mud but i have never got stuck. The only time i really drive my truck is when i am towing my trailer or boat or going up in the mountains. I am definitely not easy on my tires at all and have been really impressed with them. Before i went to the Toyo's i had Pro Comp xtreme AT's and cooper mud terrains. I might have had a little better traction but around half the life and i got flats with both of those.

 

Also when talking tire size, the only thing you are telling anyone when you say 235, 245, 285 or whatever is how wide they are. It takes the whole size including the wheel size to get a height from metric sizes. My 285/75R18's are 35x11.3. A 285/75R16 is about a 33x11.3. 

 

I have had a leveling kit and a 35" tire on my truck for over 100,000 miles and probably 15 years. Yes you have to make sure your castor and alignment and suspension components are good as any small issue is going to be amplified and more noticeable when you increase tire size. 

 

 

Thanks for the feedback. Looks like several people are liking the toyo AT2.

Yes i know i get lazy at times typing out the hole tire size. Most already know 245 = 245/75R16, 265/75R16 and 235/85R16 with stock wheels.  Although the width and height go together in some way that i have long forgot. 245/75R16 are actually mostly shorter then 265/75R16. Width is close between the two. 235/85R16 are near the same height as a 265/75R16 just narrower. There use to be another size that started with 255 years ago that was taller then all of them but just as narrow as the 235. Now clearly brand and model played a roll but i remember taking all 4 of them sizes of all different brands setting them side by side seeing just how inconstant the sizes was within each brand and just plain off with the metric to standard conversion. Many years ago when the 255 size was easy to get that is what i ran on them old trucks with no overdrive and 4:10 gears with a big block under the hood.


As i said before no lifts no 35" tires for me. Someone must be able to make them drive good somewhere tho. I had a couple of old chevys with lifts and they drove just fine. 85 chevy 5" of lift 3/4 ton dana 60 up front. It was lifted to fit the taller engine that was in it. Had another 1990 chevy with a dana 44 up front 8" of lift and 35" tires. It drove just find down the road to. I bought them that way tho. Heck i had a guy come buy a truck from me with a toyota that was converted to dana 60 front and rear not sure how tall the lift was but he had 44" boggers pulling a custom made gooseneck clear across the state to haul a full size 4wd dodge home. He said he ran 80 down the interstate the hole way. I believe it he made dang good time lol Still non of that lifted stuff matters to me i don't have any lifted vehicles at all right now and the largest tire on any of them are 265/75R16.

9 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

 

Axles might be rated for much more everything start to degrade more. Suspension parts, handling, track bar, shocks, brakes, etc. Yes I've cross over heavy several time being I'm registered to haul up to 26,000 pound. I've done hay hauls, hauling backhoes, etc. Now more the old wood trailer 7,000 pounds and just my 8,500 pound RV. Another that was a heavy haul was Cajflynn hauling boat around the east side weighing in at 28k to 32k boats. Big! Hence what I know about heavy haul and the damages it did to his truck on a daily basis. Seem like all his photos where tiny pics and now gone. 

The truck that is pulling the 30,000lbs + is also the same truck that has over 300k miles still with all the factory ball joints wheel bearings and all but one U joint. The U joint that failed was on the front driveshaft and was rusted stuck. Maybe how you drive with the weight matters. I have done it to that truck since i got it. It has hauled several hundreds of tons of iron. It would haul 150 ton a year. I'm not worried. Just fix what wears and keep going.

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4 minutes ago, totally lost said:

Yes i know i get lazy at times typing out the hole tire size. Most already know 245 = 245/75R16, 265/75R16 and 235/85R16 with stock wheels.  Although the width and height go together in some way that i have long forgot. 245/75R16 are actually mostly shorter then 265/75R16. Width is close between the two. 235/85R16 are near the same height as a 265/75R16 just narrower. 

I wasn't necessarily calling you out on the tire size, I just keep seeing it over and over.

285 is 285mm wide, 75 is 75% of the width for the height of the sidewall. So you need the wheel size also to know how tall the actual tire is. With the wide variety of wheels people are running these days from 16" to 20" its not a simple as it used to be

 

But regardless I have loved the open country at's. I have a lot of offroad miles on them pushing them hard and they haven't let me down. I would definitely look at the AT3's though, i like the tread pattern more and they have the same mileage and load ratings the AT2's have. Just don't get any in a 17" wheel, they lowered the load rating on those for all the Tacoma's, jeeps and half ton trucks. 

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1 hour ago, tony.canto said:

I wasn't necessarily calling you out on the tire size, I just keep seeing it over and over.

285 is 285mm wide, 75 is 75% of the width for the height of the sidewall. So you need the wheel size also to know how tall the actual tire is. With the wide variety of wheels people are running these days from 16" to 20" its not a simple as it used to be

 

I didn't take it that way. We good. I guess i assume everyone reads everything before and pretty much know. I shouldn't do that. And well being lazy.  Maybe i am to old school? i don't go for the 20" stuff unless it is say a 9.00-20 haha  But yeah i get what you are saying.

Maybe i should run 9.00-20"????? ha Then i may have to cut the fenders off lol Or just put the cummins in one of the trucks that came with 9.00-20. We have several and then i don't have to worry about the owners manual saying i can only carry 8800lbs. lol

17" that is some Greek to me lol That is for sport cars right? lol I'm kidding. 

I do really appreciate everyone's feedback on tires. I hate having to suffer threw tires i don't like. haha

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  • 2 weeks later...

I drive a '99 2500 QCLB 4WD NV5600 with approximately 275,000 with Factory HD T-Style steering. Never aligned and only have replaced shocks and track bar.

Best tires I have had for steering straight down the road, handling and best overall in the most conditions are the Yokohama Geolander A/Ts. The T-Style steering has always had a good feel and been stable since NEW! But the Yokohama Geos have been great.

 

EDIT: I have also replaced the front sway bar bushings. Installed Energy Suspension bar and end bushings and it really improved steering and overall handling.  Even saw a slight MPG improvement as advertised and I was skeptical.  It does drive even straighter down the road with less wandering. So less steering correction with the Energy Suspension Bushings....:)

Edited by Michaelsloft
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12 hours ago, Michaelsloft said:

I drive a '99 2500 QCLB 4WD NV5600 with approximately 275,000 with Factory HD T-Style steering. Never aligned and only have replaced shocks and track bar.

Best tires I have had for steering straight down the road, handling and best overall in the most conditions are the Yokohama Geolander A/Ts. The T-Style steering has always had a good feel and been stable since NEW! But the Yokohama Geos have been great.

 

EDIT: I have also replaced the front sway bar bushings. Installed Energy Suspension bar and end bushings and it really improved steering and overall handling.  Even saw a slight MPG improvement as advertised and I was skeptical.  It does drive even straighter down the road with less wandering. So less steering correction with the Energy Suspension Bushings....:)

Yep i have a 99 with a factory T setup as well. It seems to be the best driving one. I did tape measure the toe after a new set of tierods but thats it. That was over a decade ago. Never had funny wearing tires on that truck till i put some fierce attitudes on it then all 4 wear funny and it don't drive as good just like the rest of my trucks wont with fierce tires.  Its ok i did a nice 4th gear burnout yesterday with it just to hurry up the pain of dealing with them tires haha. Bad part is the 99 is not the truck i drive daily anymore. I wish it was tho.

Seems many AT tires people like. Funny tho i just walked past a brand new set we bought several years ago that was so scary on these trucks they got pulled off and demoted to trailer use. I cant remember the brand even know i looked. I will look again to add to my list here once i walk by them again. They was scary at 35mph forget 65 or 70.

Thanks for the input on tires!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well i think i change my statement on different tires. I should of asked tires that MASK the wander as i have found if you get precise enough with a alignment mud tires that really brought out the imperfection can be tamed even if they are 265/75-16 and not the 245/75-16. Please read my thread on making my pro comp extreme MT tires drive better then this truck did with the michelin LTX MS tires. Yea i traded my fierce attitude tires for the pro comps before what i learned in my other thread. It was some improvement but not the improvement the michelins was or the yokahama i borrowed awhile back during this thread proving my self tires was the issue. Well i guess tires able to mask poor alignments is the real deal. However clearly some tires will simply do better then others. I will still probably go with one of the AT tires you guys have mentioned and see a even better improvement above what i already got once this set is wore out. If i get as much improvement as i did before swapping tires i might forget i am driving at all!! lol

Mopar1973man i hope you give your thoughts on this thread and maybe try it for yourself?
 

 

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