No start after Pac Brake install/Now VP electrical issue

[5akman]

I've spent the last two days working on the install of a new hx 35/40 turbo and pac brake unit. Today I finished up and went to start it with no luck. It initially ran a couple of seconds on numerous attempts to start it and then just completely quit trying to fire. 

 

Details:

A few weeks ago I installed a kill switch in the grounding wire of the fuel pump relay. If I forget to switch the hidden switch to "on" it spins over but won't start and throws code 1689. Today, the spinning but no starting reminded me of the result of the kill switch being in the off position so I wired the relay back to stock configuration to rule out an issue  with the switch with no luck. I also swapped relays in the PDC but the problem remained the same. 

 

I get 20psi out of my lift pump but no fuel out of the #1 injector line when I spin it over with that inj line cracked open. I can hear and feel the frame mount FASS DRP run during the "free 25 second" pump test. 

 

I started the Blue Chip Diesel diagnostics but only got as far as confirming power on pin #7 in start/run and I did an ohm check on pin #6 and it appears to be grounding correctly. It got dark so I'll pursue the rest of the Blue Chip diagnostics tomorrow. I also checked fuse #9 in the interior fuse panel per Blue Chip. 

 

I have gone over all the Pac Brake connections and everything is done as detailed in their directions. I do get a 0753 error code however which has to do with a shifting into overdrive issues. 

 

I removed the hot leads from the grid heater and gave a short wift of starting fluid across the intake horn and the truck fired for a moment.  

 

I will also remove the 3 prong data connector that has the pig tail with the Edge EZ plug at the end. Maybe by removing the Pac Brake plug and going back to the previous connection of just the Edge plug into the data link connector will remove one variable.......

 

All the normal lights come on including the wait to start light at the turn of the key. 

 

If anyone has any ideas, I'm all ears! I have to have this truck running for getting to work Tuesday morning so I have tomorrow to figure this out!

Edited September 5, 2022 by 5akman
additional info added

[Tractorman]

I am assuming the truck was running fine before you started the turbo and PacBrake project.  If that is the case, you probably inadvertently did something along the way to trigger this new problem.  

 

Is it possible that there is something blocking the intake or exhaust ports?  Like a rag or anything that may have  been used to protect the intake and exhaust while everything was apart.  Just throwing out ideas.  

 

- John

[5akman]

Yes, ran fine prior to these parts being installed. I only had one rag over the turbo drain line and that rag is accounted for. I'm hoping that something like the ecm didn't get fried somehow. It tried to start a few times but the exhaust brake immediately cycled which seemed odd, then, nothing at all, just a freely spinning starter but no attempt to fire. 

[IBMobile]

 

Tripple check th

2 hours ago, 5akman said:

I have gone over all the Pac Brake connections and everything is done as detailed in their directions.

Tripple check the wires you tapped or cut at the PCM during installation.   It's easy to get them confused.

[5akman]

So I made up some test leads and did the Blue Chip test where you disconnect the VP harness and wire two leads, pos/neg directly to the battery via a fused lead. First attempt, the 10amp fuse blew so I replaced it and tried again. I was able to get it running immediately and it continued to start with every turn of the key. I then replaced the harness connector and I'm back to a no start condition. I'm tempted to remove the PacBrake wiring connection by connection to see if I can get it to start that way. Any other suggestions?

[IBMobile]

2 hours ago, 5akman said:

I'm tempted to remove the PacBrake wiring connection by connection to see if I can get it to start that way.

That's what I would do given it ran fine before installation of the e brake.

[IBMobile]

 

 

On a side note, Pacbrake recommends using their "Exhaust Brake Maintenance Lube" part number C18073.  You can find it on eBay for between $18 and $26 ($4.5-$6.5/oz) for a 4oz bottle.  I did some research with Material Safety Data Sheets and found Super Lube "Multi Purpose Synthetic Oil" was the same lube.   You can go to Home Depot and get a 32oz bottle of Super Lube "Multi Purpose Synthetic Oil" for $23.68 ($0.74/oz) and go to a hobby store and buy a 4 pack of 4-5oz squeeze bottles, for a few dollars, to apply the oil with. 

 

I all so added an on/off switch in the red wire with the 3amp fuse that goes to the ignition source. This is so I can control the air compressor/e- brake not to come on as soon as the ignition to turned on.  

[5akman]

So, I removed all the PacBrake connectors including the data link plug, put the Edge Ez data plug in its original spot, cleared the code and still no start. With the PB wiring removed and original wiring restored, I did NOT get the 0753 code so obviously that was PB specific. With the PB wiring, I did not pull the C2 and C3 connectors off of the passenger side dash to confirm the wire color to wire pin location as I could not get the "four tap" locks apart to verify the wiring. All of the colors/tracer colors referred to by PB were present in each plug as anticipated. 

 

So, I have a wiring problem going to the VP plug I guess. If someone has a link to where the ends of those wires go and what the specs are in terms of voltage or resistance, I'd sure appreciate it! 

[IBMobile]

You can go to the article section an get the ECM and PCM wire diagrams.  Someone else may have the volt/ohm values for the system.  

https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/2001-engine-wiring-map-r392/

 

27 minutes ago, 5akman said:

I did not pull the C2 and C3 connectors off of the passenger side dash

I looked up the wire diagram for a C44075 kit with 47RE.  Those connectors are for the transmission TCC and OD solenoids along with the OD switch.  They would not keep the truck from starting.   The only thing that interfaces with the ECM is the data link connector.

[5akman]

3 hours ago, IBMobile said:

You can go to the article section an get the ECM and PCM wire diagrams.  Someone else may have the volt/ohm values for the system.  

https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/2001-engine-wiring-map-r392/

 

I looked up the wire diagram for a C44075 kit with 47RE.  Those connectors are for the transmission TCC and OD solenoids along with the OD switch.  They would not keep the truck from starting.   The only thing that interfaces with the ECM is the data link connector.

And that is what I was thinking after reviewing the electrical schematic provided in the Pac Brake instructions. So, I either bumped a wire loose under the dash when I was pulling wires or there is something wrong with the ECM that just happened to pop up right now?

[IBMobile]

41 minutes ago, 5akman said:

there is something wrong with the ECM that just happened to pop up right now?

Or the Pacbrake controller had some type of feedback on the data line and took out the ECM.

[5akman]

12 minutes ago, IBMobile said:

Or the Pacbrake controller had some type of feedback on the data line and took out the ECM.

I've been looking for a write up on how to test the ecm but not having much luck. 

And, if the VP plug gets power when the ignition switch is both in the start and run position and, the WTS light comes on when expected, doesn't that prove the ECM to be functional? Or maybe just part of it has been fried?

[IBMobile]

You would think the ECM is good with the wait to start light coming on and th VP is good.  It's back to checking the wire and connections.  

[5akman]

6 minutes ago, IBMobile said:

You would think the ECM is good with the wait to start light coming on and th VP is good.  It's back to checking the wire and connections.  

Yep, I just need to now figure out what get triggered when so I can determine what is NOT happening to let it start. I'm going to call Blue Chip in the morning and see what they have to say after doing their test and finding that it does run when hot wired. Stay tuned!

[Mopar1973Man]

Key fob security locking you out? I've seen some that ditched the fob and quit using then have the security prevent start up.

 

Another is the ASD Relay which could prevent start up.

[5akman]

So, I called Doug at Blue Chip Diesel first thing this morning and left a message. He promptly called me back with a couple simple things to try. After getting home from work, I pulled the center plug out of PCM as instructed by Doug and then went to open the drivers door. It was locked so I used the fob to open the door, put the key in the ignition and it started right up!!!!!!! I then realized that I don't know if removing the center connector fixed the issue or if it was as Mopar1973Man mentioned and it was the key fob. I replaced the center plug and it fired right up again so maybe that proves the key fob = no start issue? If so, how do I permanently disable that fob ignition lock or better yet, how does it work exactly as maybe its a good thing to deter a thief? 

[IBMobile]

Glad you got it running.

[Tractorman]

Congratulation are in order for your perseverance!

 

- John