Prepping truck for sale but wanting to address gremlins

[DIYGirl]

I've been around the forums with this truck for years. I'm a DIY gal with minimal mechanical knowledge, enough to be dangerous, enough to get in trouble.

 

We've been plagued by some gremlins for many years and recently we purchased a friend's very well maintained 3rd gen with 77,000 miles and no known gremlins (yet).  I loved our 2nd gen, been a great truck that has seen better days cosmetically, and I think it will make a nice pickup for someone who likes really loud trucks and doesn't mind doing some work to bring her back to her glory days cosmetically.  However, I feel to sell her as is would be a big financial hit because of the following issues.

 

Question is, if I get these things straightened out finally, will it improve the selling price for the effort, or is it better to take a lower price and sell as is?  it's really about my capabilities or lack thereof, and that's why I'm here, hoping to get support IF doable.  I've muddled my way through replacing a cracked exhaust manifold, replacing the broken stock exhaust system, replacing the starter contacts, installing the FASS, installing the fuel pressure gauge, and rebuilding the battery cables and connectors because the stock ones no longer would tighten down, causing loose connections and no-starts.  My hubby helped on the tougher things but is a reluctant helper.  I'm the idiot who thinks I can do stuff and sometimes I get in over my head.  But I digress.

 

The Issues

 

1.  Transmission hunting.  Been going on for years.  Can't remember if it started after a replaced alternator (O'Reilly's - I now "know") or after the battery cable/connector rebuild.  My memory sucks and I don't seem to have all the records saved.  I understand this to be a torque converter due to ground noice.  Will improve for awhile after replacing batteries, cleaning  them off and cleaning grounds, but it always comes back.  At best it hunts around 45-55 mph but at worst it will do it through all gears and with overdrive off. 

 

Just read the article here about the alternator noise testing.  Someone on another forum suggested doing a ground modification first, citing this site for the article on that (W-T ground reference wiring modification).  Hoping that's something I can accomplish myself.

 

2.  Front Infinity amped woofers and tweeters went out last fall, not sure when, wasn't while I was driving. Rear speakers work.  Years ago I had a front end accident with front end rebuild and for some reason the stock radio display quit illuminating even though I could tune the radio and set stations.  I recently bought a test used OEM head unit from a salvage yard and the display works but the speaker problem remains.  Beyond the replacement I haven't gotten to the nitty gritty of testing such as the radio choke relay.   

 

3.  Pressure drop on my A-pillar gauge:  Last fall I was picking up a trailer load of hay, climbing a hill, when the engine began surging and I noticed the gauge fluctuating wildly.  Having lost the VP44 in the past to a dead Carter pump, pre-FASS, I had a panic attack.  We limped home and after that the engine wouldn't turn over and the signal to the FASS produced 2 psi at best.  I charged the batteries and they seemed to be holding charge well enough, so bought a replaced DRRP.  Same problem.  D'oh.  Took the batteries in for a cranking amp test and they failed.  Two new batteries and the new FASS cranked up and gave 15+  psi  at idle so I thought, yeah, problem solved.  However, on a couple of drives after starting up, I've had ZERO pressure on the gauge!  Granted, the wiring at the sending unit was crooked (someone did a lousy job years ago...) and I thought maybe the connection was failing.  I've got a test gauge to hook up to the test port and am going to do some test drives with that hooked up but wondering if there is another explanation - can it be related to the ground issue?  I'm horrified that there could be an actual problem with the voltage to the FASS.  Another headache trying to figure it out, but of course that's got to be settled before selling.

 

4.  Parasitic battery drain:  Had a mechanic friend hunt around trying to figure that out as the old batteries were draining down while sitting.  He didn't find the actual source but there was a clicking in the cab that he happened to hear on the passenger side and when he disconnected the IOD #12 fuse it went away.  For now I pull that fuse, just haven't had a chance to work through all the systems that are controlled by that one.  I hear the seat belt solenoid is often an issue for parasitic drain.  Any other suspects to consider?

 

That's all for now.  Any help with direction to suss out these issues would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Mopar1973Man]

1. W-T ground wire mod will fix this...

 

2. Might have to replace the front speakers and the amps.

 

3. Double check your gauge and any electrical for the pump.

 

4. Something in the Ignition Off Draw is running. Might check the glovebox light possibly?

[DIYGirl]

Thank you!

 

It’s going to take me a long time to address all of this due to my schedule but I’ll start with the fact I’m feeling intimidated by the wiring mod. I do best with cookbook type instructions and visual/video demos. Only vids I’ve seen on YT are after the mod was done. Has anyone come up with a step by step layout of how to go about this? Is there one element that is most impactful yet simpler to start with?

 

Are solder connectors preferred over crimped? I’m seeing reference to hydraulic crimping tools. I used solder connectors in the past for the main battery connectors that had their own flux but my brain is mush, long time ago.

 

[DIYGirl]

Also,  where is this hole? Looking around, haven’t seen this, but probably because I don’t know where to look 😬

 

This photo shows the correct "HOLE" of where to apply ground for the VP44, ECM and the PDC...note the logical location…

[Mopar1973Man]

Whole article in the database... you need to wonder over and do some reading...

 

https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/w-t-ground-wire-mod-simplified-r574/

[Sycostang67]

I occasionally have a similar issue with my FASS pump.  It will quit working usually when I first start the truck.  My issue is the contacts in the relay are getting dirty.  I fix it by unplugging and plugging it back in a few times.  It only happens about once a year though. 

[Mopar1973Man]

27 minutes ago, Sycostang67 said:

I occasionally have a similar issue with my FASS pump.  It will quit working usually when I first start the truck.  My issue is the contacts in the relay are getting dirty.  I fix it by unplugging and plugging it back in a few times.  It only happens about once a year though. 

Need a weather proof relay like an AirDog I've not had any power issues since 2006 when it was installed.