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OK guys, my engine stalling when the put in drive is back with the winter fuel blend.


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it has been warmer out, and i have finally passed the first 1,000 miles, the trans doesn't stall out as much when warm but still does it.one thing i noticed is when the truck does stall, it blows white smoke out like crazy sometimes, for 2-4 seconds after, almost like a timing thing. however once again throw it right into gear, or double tap the pedal and no stalling and no smoke either.im going to do my trans fluid change and band adjustment with DTT over the phone, and i'll plug away at the tech's brain over this.i noticed my truck idles closer to the 800 line, much closer then before.

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the stalling is still here, and now does it in reverse as well:banghead:I did notice that the stalling did at one point in time get better after i did the band adjustment, and flushed out about 10 quarts of fluid and put in a good quality fluid (Valvoline Dextron) Hopfully with the next 1,000 miles i should see it get less frequent, but it still does it when its cold.

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I would like to see live data from the engine when it stalls. Something to give an indication as too why. MY trucks been down the last couple months so I am not sure if it will stall now that its a bit warmer outside. I actually still have winter diesel in the tank. Not sure when the switch over point is

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some videos here of this stalling again

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53HAahp-dgQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_9fAOl7sQ2A

Here on this video at about 48 seconds you can see where im idling the truck at 1,000 rpm's and drop it into gear, and guess what she died.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KiOH4sikOT4

i spoke to dtt about it and they are saying it could be a celtane issue, or the tps is worn, but i have messed with alot of other stuff and none of which seems to fix it.Among other things is the Celtane count of our winter diesel here, but im trying to get a video of the engine as it seems like its binding up if i shift it back and forth to much.So i will go find some of that diesel celtane booster in the back forty and dump it in, i have a 1/2 a tank and will see what it does along with some 2 stroke oil.
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yeah I dont know what lugs the engine down so much that causes it to cut out - even at 1000 rpm down ...I havent had the issue much since I moved to waramer climate and bets fix for me is putting in gear straight away - like key on, start and 3 seconds later in gear and gently cruise or keep foot on break.If its not warmed up and I move back to Park and idle ---- and then go back to gear - stall.

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Anything different happen if you push the button on the end of the gear shifter? You know, put in underdrive?If you can get the truck rolling in first gear..... what happens when you drop it down to drive after rolling?

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i tried the O/D off thing and it made no difference.Tomorrow im adding the Diesel Kleen with a full tank of diesel and 2 stroke oil and i'll run a test to see if that fixes it.For now thought i put feelers out to see what other guys think of this issue.I also tomorrow will be heading up to a guy with a CR smarty, and i'll borrow his cable and hope to got it fixes my problem, if so a new cable is on order and should then fix my issue with my smarty not connecting.if it does work then i'll go about playing with the little thing like duration and such.

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well today mike and i were conversing and a discovery was made.If i down shift my truck to "2" manually it will not do it. It will only do it if i hit O/D off first. I need to shoot a video and hopefully post it up and see if this had any impact.so where now thinking that combined with metal shavings are now pointing to a screwed up trans or something that didn't go in right.i added that Diesel Kleen like DTT suggested but it didn't fix ____, just maid my exhaust temps almost uncontrollable, i mean acceleration (1,500) rpm's at 800F......

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well today mike and i were conversing and a discovery was made. If i down shift my truck to "2" manually it will not do it. It will only do it if i hit O/D off first. I need to shoot a video and hopefully post it up and see if this had any impact. so where now thinking that combined with metal shavings are now pointing to a screwed up trans or something that didn't go in right.

hmmm - different loading in different gear ?? Dont know. Problem is we could all have slightly different issues creating the stalling - but I almost guarantee that the 10 guys that have talked about this issue don't all have a problematic transmission. Could be a common problem related to the tranny (VB/TC) - but from memory most common denominator was new TC and injectors - could be wrong on that part now too tho as its been so long.
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what vendor built the valve body? and what are your line pressures when you tested it.

I didnt have a guage to test. Its a Revmax VB. Original one set the line pressure too high and put the truck into limp mode. So they shipped another one with lower line pressure. When I had the internals rebuilt by DTT builder - he pulled the VB and had a look - and put the gauges on the test port whilst driving to watch the line pressure whilst shifting/RPM - but unsure what they were.
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I didnt have a guage to test. Its a Revmax VB. Original one set the line pressure too high and put the truck into limp mode. So they shipped another one with lower line pressure. When I had the internals rebuilt by DTT builder - he pulled the VB and had a look - and put the gauges on the test port whilst driving to watch the line pressure whilst shifting/RPM - but unsure what they were.

do you know if the guy who installed your trans adjusted the TV and gear shifter linkage correctly?
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