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riptorn2002

Reversed polarity on my battery. Wow that was dumb.

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Bad part of this is I use my truck for work "traveling" and I broke it in Indianapolis and live in western Missouri. Has anyone else had this (happen) to them? If so what all did you do to repair it? The stuff I've noticed that is not working on mine is the fuel pump, engine preheat, dome light, the radio, the ABS light comes on and i get a "no buss" message. I realized I had done something wrong when I heard the ABS system making some noise as soon as I had touched the post to the cable. I have found at least one fuse terminal shorted. There is power on both sides and I didn't smell any hot wires at any time.

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Wasn't the other battery hooked up correctly? I'm trying to figure out what it didn't give you a big spark when you touched it. You would have had to hook them both up wrong. As far as what burnt up, I am not sure. Does the truck even run? Sounds like it doesn't. Might have fried the ECM/PCM :shrug:

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I had both batteries out and was putting the first back in. I've been running 700 cca semi batteries and the old ones were getting week. I did get a spark when the post and the cable came togeather I didn't actually bolt the wire on I pulled it off right away. The abs also made some noise. I had to tow it back from Indiana it won't start. Should I start by changing my PCM. It had a bad voltage regulator anyway. I put in an older style mopar regulator years ago.

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Ouch... Reverse polarity will wipe out every diode in any type of electronic device... My first thoughts are of the 6 diodes in the alternator. Then all the electronics (ABS, central timer, instrument cluster, ECM ,PCM, etc)

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sounds expensive. Maybe I ought to find a donor truck lol. I use this truck for work so any help is much appreciated. The alternator is easy. I read somewhere if I unplug the pcm, abs ect.. one at a time and check for "no buss" code to go away I may be able to narrow down the problem keeping it from running. I could get by with some stuff not working as long as I can go down the road. Thanks

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I found the engine control fuse blown. when I replaced it the cluster started to work along with the engine intake heater and the lift pump. Still no fire, no dome light and no radio so I think i need to look at the central timer. Any thoughts?

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IOD fuse in the cab... The one with the funny clip over it...

Off my ABS Brake page but check the black clip one if I'm not mistaken...

Posted Image

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I found the engine control fuse blown. when I replaced it the cluster started to work along with the engine intake heater and the lift pump. Still no fire, no dome light and no radio so I think i need to look at the central timer. Any thoughts?

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Went to check the fuse you told me about moparman It was blown, I had to wait till this morning in the light before I could get the little sucker out of that holder It did fix the radio and the dome but now the lift pump is not coming on? All of the other fuses are ok including the links to the intake heater. The "no buss" is no longer flashing. I think were getting close.

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Lift pump is directly controlled by the ECM... You might have to bump the starter to see if the lift pump starts up. But as for relays or fuses, there is nothing in between the lift pump or ECM to stop it. So either the lift pump is bad or the ECm is bad if it doesn't start...

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The confusing thing is that the lift pump was working yesterday. Any suggestions on where to pick up an ECM. Scrap yard, rebuilt autozone, oem.

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Well the problem is there is 46 different ECM's out for our 2nd 24V trucks... The other problem is any ECM you pick up you would need to take the truck and have the dealer flash the VIN number into it. While your there, you would need to flash the proper software into it as well.

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Thanks Mike I did get the lift pump to run but it works sometimes and sometimes not. I cranked it for a bit and it started to work. But the injection pump does not seem to be working and I am getting a p1968 code If i recall. You have a video on it. So I am still not communicating between the ecm and the injection pump. Oh the alternator was fried too. I did feel the injection pump relay kick in when I pulled it out and put it back in. It is snowing and wet cold here so I will have to look at further tomorrow. The ECM at the dealer is $1470 and $80 to flash. Still hoping to find out it is something other than that. :)

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Ouch..Well the P1689 code is most likely going to be a Injection pump or VP44 if you can find a shop that has a cheater box to allow you to plug in the cheater box to the VP44 it should allow you to try and start the truck this will tell you if the Vp44 is shot... But by the looks of it you might be getting hit twice by the ECM and VP44... :pray: (Praying for ya)

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If it turns out to be the vp44, luckily I have a spare. There is a shop I think may have one about 100 miles away. Thanks Mike I will keep you updated.

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