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Fuel psi gauge


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  • Owner

Steel braid is a bit fancy for a setup... Here is the setup I just installed on a truck about a week ago... Gauge, Compression fitting with ferrules, 1/8" Air Brake line rated for 600-800 PSI, Needle valve for a snubber and also a full shut off incase of leakage, and then the tapped banjo bolt to access the fuel pressure.post-2-138698191603_thumb.jpg

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Is your gauge electric or mechanical? I have an Isspro EV2 electric gauge that started out being the exact same set up with the snubber/banjo bolt from tork teck except with a grease gun hose and I expierenced needle bounce pretty bad so I know the sender was getting beat up bad. I only run that set up for two days and changed it. IMO, I dont think its a good set up. I would go with something like Mike's setup or maybe top of fuel canister but I wouldn't waste my time putting it there. Just too close too the vp to stop the "hammering effect" from the vp without a needle vavle. You'll be replacing that bolt, sender, or the gauge long before you want too. :2cents:

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Grease gun hose was a myth started long ago about vibration killing the senders. It not the vibration but the water hammer from the VP44 injection pump.

I agree. That's what I was trying to say. Not real good with words I was just using the grease gun hose as a point of reference between his set up and the way mine used to be. I only used the grease gun hose to connect the banjo/snubber bolt and the sender together. I wasn't using it for any added benefits. :thumbup2:
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Is your gauge electric or mechanical? I have an Isspro EV2 electric gauge that started out being the exact same set up with the snubber/banjo bolt from tork teck except with a grease gun hose and I expierenced needle bounce pretty bad so I know the sender was getting beat up bad. I only run that set up for two days and changed it. IMO, I dont think its a good set up. I would go with something like Mike's setup or maybe top of fuel canister but I wouldn't waste my time putting it there. Just too close too the vp to stop the "hammering effect" from the vp without a needle vavle. You'll be replacing that bolt, sender, or the gauge long before you want too. :2cents:

I have a mechanical gauge. I will try it the way I want and if I dont like it then I will put a needle valve in. I will not have to change anything to install a needle valve. Atleast I dont think I will.
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I will. I was going to install it tonite but I have to get a big drill bit to get that big steel line through the firewall. I don't know any other way to get it through. Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2

If you look under the dash there should be a hole with a rubber gromett just to the left of where the main wiring harness comes through the firewall. Should be more than enough to get your hose through unless your already using it to run other stuff through the firewall.
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If you look under the dash there should be a hole with a rubber gromett just to the left of where the main wiring harness comes through the firewall. Should be more than enough to get your hose through unless your already using it to run other stuff through the firewall.

Thanks Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2
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Mike, what do you do drill and tap banjo bolt and what size is it. I ask because I still have the icalotor on my truck that I put on there 3-4 years ago. It cant be reading right, back when I had my AD100 in I made a washer to boost psi 17 and It did ok for a while and it went right back to 14.50 some times less. So I bought my 150 and I put the spring for 17 psi and it stayed up there for a while and it came down to 14.50 again. The spring is not getting stuck on the ball in pump so that's all I came up with.:shrug:

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Well other than oval shaped the last coil of the spring and shim the spring up that's it... I'm NOT using a isolator and always have solid good numbers. Yes there is fuel plumbed into the cab of my truck but now in all these years never had a leak in the cab like everyone jumps up and down about. If you use the proper material and route the line properly you'll never have a issue. :smart:

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Where do I get a banjo bolt like you have? I would like to get away from this isolator. I think it's the reason for low pressure reading. Time out, I have the quick connect fitting on vp. What's next? Any Pics :think:

Well other than oval shaped the last coil of the spring and shim the spring up that's it... I'm NOT using a isolator and always have solid good numbers. Yes there is fuel plumbed into the cab of my truck but now in all these years never had a leak in the cab like everyone jumps up and down about. If you use the proper material and route the line properly you'll never have a issue. :smart:

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Not trying to hijack C Farmer, but i'm curious how you would install a FP Gauge if where your Tapped Banjo bolt would go on the VP there is A Fuel line from an AD150 going directly to that spot?

The airdog 150 has a elbow that threads in to the vp, right? Is so then you can't use a tapped banjo bolt. Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2
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