I still get fuel pressure and it will start, just no WTS light at all anymore. ecm?

P0381 error code?

I had the avalanche effect happen to my truck 2 weeks ago, multiple issues.WTS light wasn't coming on, no code for it though. I replaced the intake manifold heater relay, comes on every time!:thumbup2:Hope that helps you bud!

The only code is P0230 Lift pump

The only code is P0230 Lift pump

That needs addressing pronto!!!!!!!!!!! After thats fixed check the intake heater to see if it's working.

I put a Fass 95 pump on and the grid heaters are not working either. Found a 40 amp blown fuse and replaced that. It was for fuel heater? Now, it will not start at all.

The only experience I had with a no wait to start light happened the day I got my Smarty, I was in the middle of nowhere waiting to meet a guy half way with a trailer and I had just tried a Smarty program before I left home for the first time, while I was sitting there waiting I decided to load a different program and then while downloading things went bad and lost communication and couldn't get it back, tried to start and it was a no go also noticed there was no WTS light, well after getting towed home and getting on the phone with Bob Wagner who put me through to Marco Himself he said a no WTS light is a dead ECM, said some ECMs have week driver boards and fail while downloading, Bob sent me an ECM overnight and got me on the road again.Long story short no WTS light equals dead ECM. But I am surprised yours even ran at all for a while.

ECM should be here today. I have always thought the ecm was on it's way out. But, really thought it was odd that my truck was starting and running without the WTS light coming on. Has to be ecm, the fuel pump is not coming on anymore either.

Checked codes with a different scanner, P0230, fuel pump circuit out of range. Wth does that mean? No voltage on that circuit?

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Well, put an ecm in out of a running 99 diesel and the WTS light maybe comes on for a second or two, maybe 1 out of 20 times of turning the key on. The ecm came out of a daily driver. Will do more testing tomorrow. no codes. :banghead:

Well, day two of different ecm. W_T_S light is very random and short when it comes on. Truck starts and runs fine. I know the grid heater works because I see the amp gauge drop some. Put 200 miles on today, and worked all day. Maybe gotta get used to w-t-s light acting way differently with this ecm?:shrug:I like the new fass pump, never drops below 14 lbs.

Crazy idea. Could you find a live data tool like a ScanGauge II and monitor your IAT temps?

Crazy idea. Could you find a live data tool like a ScanGauge II and monitor your IAT temps?

I have a Solus from Snap-on that I can read live data. I was watching my IAT when I was checking for codes. I could switch my IAT fooler on and off and see the readings change. Would a High IAT temp make the light not come on?

No. Typically the WTS light should always come for a bulb check even for a few seconds. But I was wonder want the ECM was seeing or what???

Sometimes the WTS light will not show up at all. I know the grid heaters are working cuz I can see the amp gauge going down and coming back up after start. If the WTS light doesn't show, I just wait 15-20 seconds and hit the key, starts right up.Then the next time I get in the WTS light works..................... So I know it's a good bulb.

Try checking both batteries @ the connections to make sure they didn't loosen. (Saw similar problem in post on mopar1973man)

did you get if sorted out i would like to know what it was

I replaced the engine ecm. Still does the intermittant light deal. Sometimes it doesn't come on at all. I just cycle the key until I see the light come on for a couple seconds and count to 20. Then it starts....PITA:mad:

Here is the wiring for the wait to start light...

Did you do an ohm ck on the IAT sensor?

Did you do an ohm ck on the IAT sensor?

I did not. What should it ohm at?

I did not. What should it ohm at?

Personally its easier to use a live data tool like ScanGauge II or UltraGauge and check for 2 matching temp between ECT and IAT temp. But here is the ohm values for the IAT. But still and all even with my force 143*F IAT that is basically a resistor stuff in the plug I still get Wait To start light for a bulb check yet. [TABLE] [TR] [TD=align: center]Temperature[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, bgcolor: #3870cc, align: center] Resistance[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 13°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 56K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 26°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 39K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 87ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 7.4K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 91°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 6.8K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 100°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 5.6k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 107°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 4.7K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 112°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 4.3K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 119ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 3.6K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 123ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 3.3K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 127ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 3.0K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 132ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 2.7k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 143°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 2.2k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 148°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 2.0k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 163°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 1.5k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 173°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 1.2k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 184°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 1.0k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]

I should clarify a little. IF I don't see the WTS come on, even for a second, it won't start. I have to cycle the key until I see it come on before it starts.

So, does that mean the second ecm I put in is also crappin out?