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Calculated load value? i need help


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Hey guys! I've been lurking around this site for a while. I've gotten lots of valuable info for keeping my trucks going. I have a 2001 2500 that has been giving me issues for a while(2 years now)- hopefully I can find some knowledge here. the truck runs fine when its cold, as it heats up the power will cut out, then come back. I have taken it to a couple of mechanics and they haven't been able to figure out the problem.we ran it one day with the Modus attached- TPS is fine, CPS is fine, only thing we could see funny was that as it was cutting out/ powering up the Calculated load value was jumping from 0% to 100%. anyone know how the computer calculates the load value?. bad wire? bad sensor? :mad: no Check Engine Light. its been frustrating to say the least.thanksnick

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Check those connectors going to the PCM from the passenger battery. One guy said his was tight and all but it didn't make good contact. Another guy mounted his ECM away from the engine heat and his intermittant problem went away. Just some possibilities is all I have to offer:(

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sorry on reading my original post it was not clear as glass. once the engine reaches operating temperature the engine will cut in and out. giving a few seconds of power and then cutting out for 5-10 seconds. then giving full power for a few seconds again. I drove it for a while today and after 20-30 minute of low speed hauling (pulled an f250 on a trailer about 5 miles at 20 mph) it quit cutting out and ran fine for the 20 minute ride home..

I did notice today that when its cutting out if you let in the clutch and keep your foot on the skinny pedal it continues to cut out for a few seconds and then will rev all the way, doesn't seem to cut out until it gets a load on again.

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I don't have a permanent fuel pressure gauge but I have hooked up gauges to it and it always reads over 10 psi, idle and wot under load.

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I would double check the VP44 to ECM wiring as a starter. Then double check both battery gorunds being the ECM and VP44 are directly connected to the driver side battery ground and the PCM is connected to the passenger battery ground.Since this is a wild throttle problem I highly suggest having the alternator tested for AC noise. If there is over 0.1 Volts AC then the alternator failed. Typical bench test just tend to test for DC output at load but you also got to test the AC noise level typically with a newer test bench, oscilloscope, or a high quality DVM like a Fluke.

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