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hex0rz
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hex0rz

hex0rz

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:banghead: Dangit!Alright, so in my break caliper thread, I posted up some stuff, but no one replied.So in continuation from it, but a separate issue, I was trying to figure out what was going on with the hub, rotor, etc. I took the tire off and spun the rotor. The rotor did not look warped at all and no excessive wear. As I spun it though, I noticed something. I spun the rotor slowly and when you get to a point, there is resistance. A feeling as though it almost is a warped rotor. But sighting down it, its straight.So, I thought, maybe a u-joint? I took a pry bar and the joint did not have any slop. But as I spin the rotor, I did not recall hearing the noise I heard before. So, then I thought wheel hub assembly. I took the rotor with both hands and moved it in and out left to right. I get about 1/32" play.So, thinking it was the hub, I took the hub assembly/rotor off the axle. Now, what I'm seeing is the rotor is actually moving by itself on the hub! I took it to the parts store and he said he thought the studs were backing off.I'm gonna take it to an auto repair place, maybe have the studs replaced? They are chinese rotors, unfortunately, lifetime warranty from O'reilly's. I'm wondering if the holes in the rotors are not spec'ed out like OEM?Any rate, I'm wondering if the slop in the holes would cause that noise I'm hearing? Anyone even experience something like this?I decided to not replace the hub or u-joints as they do not seem worn to warrant replacement. I did pick up another caliper though and will be replacing that side tomorrow as well.Also, I had the wife turn the steering wheel so I could use the socket, extension method on popping off the hub and when she turned the wheel with the truck off, the power steering area just decided to puke out a bunch of fluid? WTF? Any ideas?

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diesel4life

diesel4life

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Maybe you didn't get the studs pressed in completely when the rotor was changed? The rotor should certainly be pressed tightly to the hub and the studs is what holds them together. You can take a brass drift pin or something similar, set the rotor face down on some wood blocks and pound the studs in with a bfh one at a time. The round heads should be flush. You can also remove the studs yourself if you don't want to pay someone to do it. I spin the lug nut on flush, and use 2 hammers. Hold one hammer flat on the stud/lug nut and use the other hammer to strike. If you hit the stud directly with one hammer you will likely peen the studs but by using one hammer as a "buffer" you won't hurt a thing. Also, how many miles on your front universal joints? It is a little extra work but you may be further ahead to change it while your in there if you have any doubts about it. It is a lot of work to have to get back in there if you put it all back together and find you still have a problem... Or maybe just pull it out of the axle so you can flex the joint 360* to check for any rough spots. Sometimes just prying on them while theyre in the truck won't give the ghost up..... JR

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hex0rz

hex0rz

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Maybe you didn't get the studs pressed in completely when the rotor was changed? The rotor should certainly be pressed tightly to the hub and the studs is what holds them together. You can take a brass drift pin or something similar, set the rotor face down on some wood blocks and pound the studs in with a bfh one at a time. The round heads should be flush. You can also remove the studs yourself if you don't want to pay someone to do it. I spin the lug nut on flush, and use 2 hammers. Hold one hammer flat on the stud/lug nut and use the other hammer to strike. If you hit the stud directly with one hammer you will likely peen the studs but by using one hammer as a "buffer" you won't hurt a thing.

Also, how many miles on your front universal joints? It is a little extra work but you may be further ahead to change it while your in there if you have any doubts about it. It is a lot of work to have to get back in there if you put it all back together and find you still have a problem... Or maybe just pull it out of the axle so you can flex the joint 360* to check for any rough spots. Sometimes just prying on them while theyre in the truck won't give the ghost up.....

JR

Not sure since it has been a long time, but I'm pretty confident that they were pressed in all the way at the time. I know I definitely did not experience this at the time when I did them...

I'm about to run to a repair place and have them press it, so we will see. I might even need to see what the other side is doing, too. Funny thing is, no more than a month ago, I had Les Schwab rotate my tires for me. Surprised they did not see this...

As far as I know, all my u-joints are OEM. I have yet to replace them. At this moment in time, I cannot justify spending the money. At any other time, I would as I'am that type of person with that train of thought. But money is VERY tight. So, I'm doing the bare minimum to get back on the road...

I may try pulling the axle out just a little and rotate the joint and see before I put it back together. Will keep you guys posted.

- - - Updated - - -

Alright, so I found a place that could do it for me real quick. Guy did not do it on a press. Had a couple place tell me to take a lug nut and tighten it to seat it. Tried that and also the BFH. Did not have a brass drift though...

So the guy I took it to used something and a hammer. Said it was seated. Got it back on the truck and I spun it. :nono: NOPE! Still moves on me! Its not AS bad. Instead of the 1/32" play, it feels more like a 1/64", The rotational slop is still there... This is probably what has caused my brakes to get all funky on me too.

So, I threw my hands up in the air tonight and tomorrow I'll pick up more studs. Getting USA made studs! :thumb1: Not this china crap.

Anyways, I think I'm gonna have to check the left side now too, after I get this side on. I think I'm gonna take a caliper to the stud holes on the rotor too when I get it separated and see if I can get one of you guys to measure yours? I really wanna see if these china rotors have the proper lug stud hole size. If not, I'm gonna make sure o'reilly's knows.

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hex0rz

hex0rz

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If you take the hub/rotor assembly and put it on a table, you can literally rotate the rotor a slight bit. The studs are not fully seated... I reused my studs when I replace the rotor. This time, I cannot.So today, I picked up studs. 7 from o'reallllly's and 1 from napa. The disparity in prices is :sick:. Napa charged $8.11/stud! O'reilly's charges $2.99/stud! They are USA made too! :thumbup2:So, I pounded out the other ones and had lame success in fully seating the new ones! :banghead:Frustrating! I tried pounding them in with a BFH and sucking them in with the lug nuts. Nope...I'm still adamant about getting them pressed! I'm gonna try tomorrow and see, but to my amazement, all the auto repair shops were BUSY!If I had my air tools and an air compressor, I would have atleast used an air chisel with a flat tip attachment.I did notice one thing about the older studs! :smart: Towards the head of the stud on the shaft, on the smooth part above the teeth that hold them in, 1/2 half of the circumference of it was rusted and the other was not!Which makes me wonder if I really 'am correct in my thoughts on the Stud hole size on the rotor. :think:

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hex0rz

hex0rz

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Got the new studs PRESSED in! Guy told me it was more challenging than he thought to try and beat it in. So I'm not crazy for trying to pound them in!Got the caliper on and brakes bled. The truck still pulls to the right. :banghead: Broke down and bought the driver side caliper...Hopefully I won't have the same ordeal on the left as I did for the right!

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diesel4life

diesel4life

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I know it has been mentioned but don't discount the possibility of an internally collapsed brake hose....I've seen it first hand. For clarification, the truck only pulls when you apply the brake correct? It drives straight other than that? I have also seen where control arm bushings can cause a pull one way or the other. They get enough slop in them and the brake torque changes the alignment and causes the truck to pull. I'm sure you would notice if they were that bad though because there would be general driveability problemsJR

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hex0rz

hex0rz

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I know it has been mentioned but don't discount the possibility of an internally collapsed brake hose....I've seen it first hand. For clarification, the truck only pulls when you apply the brake correct? It drives straight other than that? I have also seen where control arm bushings can cause a pull one way or the other. They get enough slop in them and the brake torque changes the alignment and causes the truck to pull. I'm sure you would notice if they were that bad though because there would be general driveability problems JR

I'm going to get this caliper switched out first, then see. If I still have a pull, I'm going to see if it is a brake hose. Its only pulling when brake is applied. Drives straight if you are on top of the crown of the road. I'm sure my track bar does need to be redone, but this is not the cause from that. I did get a clunk noise the first time I experienced this pull, so I dunno what that was from...
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hex0rz

hex0rz

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Alright, I'd like to just confirm with you fella's about what constitutes a bad hub bearing assembly? I would dread have one of them being bad. As I do not like this whole lug stud thing. This design is not conducive for replacement/repairs...

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MnTom

MnTom

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Okay, I tried that.. what about the method of spinning the wheel and feeling for any vibrations in the coil spring?

If you spin the wheel and feel any vibration you have a bearing failing.
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